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    Our flying field is the Former Champaign Municipal Landfill which was operated as a municipal solid waste landfill from approximately 1955 to 1975. As an AMA chartered Club our goal is to provide a forum for club members to exchange ideas and benefit from each others experiences with the hobby of building and the sport of flying radio controlled model aircraft. We are committed to promoting the enjoyment of safe R/C flying in accordance with AMA and Champaign County Radio Control Club rules and guidelines.

    Mailing Address Field Location
    CCRCC 3616 W. Bloomington Rd.
    P.O. Box 6105 Champaign, Il.
    Champaign, Il. 61820

    Click Here for
    Google Maps Link

  • Upcoming Events

    • 22 June 2017 10:00 PM Until 23 June 2017 12:00 AM
      Join CCRCC at the airfield and learn to fly RC airplanes. Our instructors have trained many new pilots to fly on their own using the buddy box system and flight simulators where you are free from the burden and fear of crashing an airplane. 
      Every Thursday beginning May 18th (weather permitting) at 5:00PM at our airfield at 3616 Bloomington Rd, Champaign
      NOTE - While it is our intention that all students be able to get multiple flights in during each training session, this is also a fluid event based on the availability of instructors on any given week, the amount of students on any given week, and dependent on aircraft not having any flight issues.
      For weather updates casuing possible cancellation of that weeks training please check our Facebook page about 45 minutes before the scheduled start time https://www.facebook.com/ChampaignCountyRcClub/
    • 25 June 2017 02:00 PM Until 25 June 2017 08:00 PM

    • 27 June 2017 12:00 AM Until 27 June 2017 01:30 AM
      Social Meeting at CCRCC Flying Field - 7:00PM
    • 05 July 2017 11:00 PM Until 06 July 2017 12:00 AM
      Join CCRCC at our flying to learn drone safety in accordance with FAA and AMA guidelines. We will also discuss "common sense" aspect of flying drones. If you are unsure of the proper flight protocols to protect your investment, property, other peoples property, privacy and health then this is for you. If you already many aspects of flight and want to brush up on it then this is for you.
      We will be doing this on the first Wednesday of each month until September.
    • 15 July 2017 02:00 PM Until 15 July 2017 10:00 PM
      Do not miss this opportunity to participate in the 2nd Fort Wayne Flying Circuits Multi-Rotor event. Enjoy an opportunity to demonstrate your skills and aircraft  with a chance to see what other pilots are doing in this rapidly growing segment of the hobby. FPV Racing and Obstacle Course Events Along with Fun Flying as time permits.
      RCFlightDeck Registration
    • 26 August 2017 02:00 PM Until 27 August 2017 10:00 PM

      Barnstormers Over Champaign
      August 26th and 27th 2017
      Registration Location Coordinator RC Flightdeck Champaign County RC Club Dan Kemphues   3616 W. Bloomington Rd.     Champaign, IL. 61820
        About Barnstormers
      Past Barnstormers
  • Recent Images

  • Blog Entries

    • By JShumate in FlyRC.com Feed
      Get ready for one of the most exciting events in RC aviation. The dates are set for the Twelve O’clock High Warbirds Classics Event; Oct 19-21 2017. Mark your calendars, tell your family you’re busy and make plans to head to Lakeland FL. Find out more details HERE

      The post Twelve O’clock High Warbirds Classics Event Oct 19-21 2017 appeared first on Fly RC Magazine.

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    • By JShumate in FlyRC.com Feed
      By Scott Copeland
      It has been said that one learns more from his failures than his successes. Undeterred by my prior washouts, I vowed to improve my RC skills although those little green demons of haste and impatience continued to hound me.  At some point, I acquired a Pronto kit designed by Dave Robelen.  It was a cute little low-wing sport machine that reminded me of the PT-19, especially in Robelen’s original, yellow and blue between-the-wars color scheme.  As soon as the kit was in my possession, I had to start building!
      Dave Robelen’s original ProntoIn retrospect, I have come to the conclusion that all projects have an appropriate pace.  That pace may be different for each individual modeler and each individual project but there is certainly a proper speed with which one should proceed.  This ideal pace is the perfect balance of progress and sound decision-making.  Work too slow; you succumb to every pitfall and never finish the project.  Work too fast; you make rash decisions that doom the project to eventual failure.  At the time in my life that I built the Pronto, I had not yet had this revelation.
      Instead of carefully studying the plans and building instructions to make sure I understood every step, I simply bulled through the build trying to get things done ASAP.  Around this same time I also got quite familiar with another factor of modeling which demands recognition; the modeling budget.   Rushing through the building process is certainly one way to make sure things get done wrong, but also not realizing that a project is beyond monetary capabilities can lead to just as many mistakes.
      The original kit box label for the Pronto.At some point in the project, I ran out of epoxy.  All my greenbacks had flown the coup, so I substituted.  Surely other glues would be sufficient for things like wing spar joinery…  I can’t recall which glue I substituted for the correct one, but that point, my friends, is now moot.  Additionally, I could not afford the Monokote that should have been used to cover the Pronto.  Instead, I had inherited an old roll of iron-on fabric covering that my grandfather had collecting cobwebs in his shop.  I decided to use this instead.  I quickly learned why this stuff had never been used.  It was quite heavy and did not stick well to the framework.  Luckily the Pronto had no compound curves because I am sure this mystery fabric would not have conformed to them at all.  The covering looked, as Dave Platt might say, “Like a pig’s breakfast”, but there was the Pronto, ready to fly in record time.
      Dave displaying his model.I could not wait to test-fly this thing.  My friend Chris was always semi-interested in my aeronautical exploits and decided to come along for the maiden flight.  My flying field, prophetically, was at the edge of a cemetery.   It had a nice open field and a paved strip that could be used as a runway, and the neighbors were quiet.  I quickly assembled the model and filled the tank.  I rushed through the pre-flight check, failing to check the center of gravity, thinking forward about how great this plane was going to fly.  I started the trusty O.S. .15 and set the needle.  I did manage to check the controls, and then goosed the throttle.  The Pronto lept into the air after a 10 foot rollout and was climbing at about a 45 degree angle!  I quickly gave down elevator and managed to keep it from stalling.  I hurriedly fed in full down-trim but could not keep the nose level without massive amounts of down-elevator.  The Pronto was barely controllable, intermittently climbing and diving at 45-degree angles.  I did manage to avoid the trees at the end of the field but couldn’t wrangle my horribly tail-heavy machine into any semblance of a controlled flight pattern.
      After about 20 terrifying seconds of piloting that must have given the impression to all bystanders that I must have stopped at the pub before the flying field, one of my sub-standard glue joints finally decided to give up.  I made a quick diving turn to the right and as I pulled out, the two wing halves clapped together as if mockingly applauding my stupidity.  The Pronto did its best impression of a V2 rocket and plunged vertically into oblivion, the roaring engine stopping with a thud.  The thud was followed by a brief silence, interrupted by the uproarious laughter from Chris, who could no longer contain himself.  Insult added to injury, the Pronto managed to seek out and find the paved strip amidst the preponderance of nice soft field turf.  The tail group survived; that’s about it.  My trusty O.S. .15 had a bent crankshaft and my receiver was cracked. To paraphrase Carl Bachhuber, I was learning by trial and error… mostly error:
      Never substitute when you know consciously that you are using the wrong glue! Haste makes (Pronto) waste! Sometimes, I am an idiot. The full size plans as downloaded from outerzone.com.The post Only Human 3: Shortcut To Terra Firma appeared first on Fly RC Magazine.

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    • By JShumate in FlyRC.com Feed
      Words and photos by Gary A. Ritchie
      Now it’s time to build a fiberglass cowling that will fully enclose the electric motor in our Ultra Sport 60. Before we begin, sand the front of the fuselage into a smooth oval shape (Figure 1). Then draw a pencil line across the front center of the firewall and drill two 9/64” holes straight down through the firewall 5/8” in from the fuselage sides (Figure 2).
      Building the cowling involves two steps: (1) making a mold from blue foam, and (2) building the cowling over the mold using strips of fiberglass cloth. When this is done, the foam mold is cut away leaving the fiberglass cowling. Let’s take them one step at a time.
      Making the mold. To make the mold you will need a 1-foot square sheet of 2” thick blue foam (you can buy this at a hardware store, but I was able to get some scrap foam from a fellow modeler), two 4-40 blind nuts, two 4-40 x 5/8” long socket head cap screws, two small pieces of scrap 1/8” plywood, and some 20 minute Epoxy.
      Bolt the motor to the motor mount and set the assembly on top of the firewall, center it up, and then measure the distance (D) from the front of the firewall to the back of the prop spinner plate (Figure 3). With my plane, D was 4 3/8”. Then cut two blocks of foam exactly 4¾” x 4 3/8” (modify this if D is not 4 3/8”). I used a band saw for this. If you don’t have a band saw you can use a table saw or even a hand saw with a miter block. The idea is to cut the pieces as square as possible. Then glue them together side to side and hold them firmly in place with a couple of metal weights while the glue dries.  I used Deluxe 20-minute Speed Epoxy II for this step (Figure 4). This will give you a block of foam with the dimensions: 4 ¾” x 4 3/8” x 4”.
      Now cut two pieces of 1/8” scrap plywood to about 1” x ½” and drill a 1/8” hole in the center of each. Mount one of the 4-40 blind nuts in each hole (Figure 5). Then feed the two 4-40 bolts through the holes you drilled in the firewall (Figure 2) from inside the fuselage so that the ends protrude through the nose. You can make this easier by putting a blob of Deluxe Tacky Wax on the tip of your ball driver to hold the screw as you insert it into the front of the fuselage (Figure 6). A Glue Stick will also work but not as well. Then bolt each plywood block firmly to the front of the firewall (Figure 7).
      Now firmly fasten your fuselage into an upright position (I used my Shop Mate) and press the foam block straight down on the front of the firewall (Figure 8). This will mark the locations of the ply blocks on the bottom of the foam block (Figure 9). Remove the plywood blocks from the firewall, cut out the impressions in the foam down to about 1/8” with your hobby knife and Epoxy the plywood blocks into these cutouts (Figure 10). These will be the mounting points for the foam block as we fasten it into place on the fuselage and begin shaping it. Then screw the foam block firmly to the front of the fuselage, again running the bolts in from behind the firewall as you did earlier. Then draw lines on the block to extend the outlines of the upper and lower fuselage (Figure 11).
      Find the round 1/8” plywood spinner ring provided in the kit. Set the spinner backplate from the spinner you plan to use on the ring and use it as a template to draw a circle around the spinner ring. Then sand the ring to match the diameter of the spinner backplate (Figure 12).
      Mark the center of the front of the foam block. Use the plan drawings to determine exactly where the center will be. Then place the spinner ring on the center of the foam block and draw a circle around it (Figure 13). Note that I am planning to add an air scoop beneath the spinner, so you need to draw that in as well.
      We are now ready to begin shaping the mold. Using the front edge of the fuselage and the round forward edge of the block as guides, send the block so that it gradually contours from the fuselage down to the shape of the spinner ring – leaving a place for the air scoop beneath it. Finally place the spinner ring at the front of the block and make sure the foam exactly matches it. If not, do some final sanding to make it perfect (Figure 14). Note in Figure 14 the area that I left for the air scoop. To do the sanding I initially used #80 grit sandpaper. Be careful with this because it can tear large chunks out of the foam. To finish I switched to #120 grit to smooth out the mold. Keep working on it until you get it as smooth and uniform as you can.
      The front corners of the fuselage were sanded round with a sanding block.A horizontal line was drawn across the middle of the front of the fuselage. Two 9/64” diameter holes were drilled on each line 5/8” in from the outer edges. Holes are shown at the arrows.The distance (D) from the front of the firewall to the back of the spinner backplate was determined to be 4-3/8”.The two pieces of 2” thick blue foam were glued together side by side with 20 minute Deluxe Speed Epoxy II to form a block 4-¾” x 4-3/8” x 4”. They were then weighted down with metal plates to cure.Two pieces of 1/8” thick plywood were cut to about 1” x ½” and 4-40 blind nuts were inserted into 1/8” holes drilled in the center of each piece. Here you see also the two 5/8” 4-40 socket head cap screws.A good way to get the socket screws into place in the holes in the back of the firewall is to apply some Deluxe Sticky Wax to the tip of a long socket driver, then stick it into the cap of the cap screw. This can then be inserted through the battery hatch and into the holes in the firewall.The plywood blocks are screwed to the front of the firewall with the socket head cap screws.With the fuselage mounted upward in a Shop Mate, the foam block was centered on the firewall and then pressed down hard onto the screws and wood blocks.Pressing the foam block down on the firewall made impressions of the wood blocks and protruding screws.After the wood block impressions were cut out with a hobby knife, the plywood blocks and bolts were glued in place with epoxy. Before gluing, the bolts were liberally covered with Vaseline to prevent them from being glued to the foam or to the threads in the blind nuts. Then the bolts were removed.The foam block was fastened in place using the two 4-40 bolts screwed into the plywood blocks. Then lines were drawn on the blocks to serve as sanding guides.The 1/8” plywood spinner ring and the aluminum spinner backplate are shown here. The backplate was placed on the spinner ring and used to draw a circle on the ring. It was then sanded down so that the spinner ring and the backplate were the same diameter.After the center of the foam block was determined and marked, the spinner ring was set on the front of the block and a circle was drawn around it.After the block was sanded down to fit the spinner ring, it was held in place to facilitate final touch-up sanding. 
      This completes construction of our mold. Next time we will use it to fabricate the fiberglass cowling. Until then remember to take your time and enjoy doing a good job.
      The post RC Kits 31: Great Planes Ultra Sport 60 – Making The Fiberglass Cowl appeared first on Fly RC Magazine.

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    • By JShumate in FlyRC.com Feed
      Words and photos by Bob Benjamin – bob@rcmodel.com
      A genuine Golden Oldie that’s perfect for today’s small electric airplanes.
      NOTE: This article is required reading for the next installment of Master’s Workshop, Guillow’s Hellcat #4
      Silkspan … what’s that? Simply stated, it’s a unique kind of paper that since the really old (pre-WWII) days of aeromodelling has been recognized as an excellent covering material for model airplanes. More specifically, it’s a specialized tissue made from woody plant fibers. It’s my understanding that most if not all of it comes to us from Japan. The material generations of aeromodelers around the world have called “silkspan”, a trade name of which I don’t know the origin, is very specific kind of tissue paper, but not all tissue from Japan is silkspan. You’ll recognize its subtly mottled appearance when you see it…and you almost certainly have already. “Silkspan” is the model airplane world’s name for teabag paper. “Japanese Tissue”, the lighter, finer-grained paper made from the gampi plant, sold on the US model airplane market under names such as Esaki, is a different product which demands slightly different application techniques.
      Back when I got started in this business, during the late 1940’s and early ‘50’s, silkspan had long since been accepted as the default covering for all but the very smallest…and largest…model airplanes. In those days nearly all the kit manufacturers included a couple sheets of the stuff in every box as the recommended covering material, which everybody knew was supposed to be attached, sealed and finished with airplane dope. The silkspan that was available to us then (and still is) came in three different weights/thicknesses. “OO” is very light…very similar to the heavier tissue products and good for little models with wingspans on the order of twelve to maybe eighteen inches. “OO” silkspan has another special purpose application which works well on larger models as well. I’ll talk more about that later in this article. “GM” (gas model) silkspan is noticeably thicker and stronger…and the most commonly used. “SGM” (super gas model) silkspan was also there on the hobby shop shelf if you were building a six-footer and couldn’t afford very-much-stronger (and much more expensive) silk. If you opened a kit from Sterling, Goldberg, Berkeley, Top Flite, PDQ, Midwest, Kenhi, or Veco, among others in those days, you expected to find a couple of two-by-three foot sheets of silkspan included. This arrangement continued to be common into the 1960’s and beyond, long after most model builders had come to regard those various plastic film products as the new default choice of covering. You will still find silkspan in all the larger Guillow’s built-up balsa kits today, and that happy anachronism is what is going to lead us into this lesson on one of the good old skills of aeromodelling.
      Regardless of the grade of silkspan you chose, if you were an experienced model builder you had long since learned to apply your covering NOT just over the “open” parts of the model structure. Instead you covered every square inch of the model’s surface, including the “closed” parts like sheet balsa or carved balsa blocks. If you left any balsa structure uncovered/unsealed by silkspan you would pay the penalty of having a rough, porous surface that was nearly impossible to finish to match the “covered” areas. A colored dope finish might help disguise the contrast between the silkspan and the bare, open grain, porous balsa around it, but even adding and sanding multiple coats of various “fillercoat” products could not give you a finish base to compare with “silkspan over everything” and a couple coats of clear dope. Some guys learned the hard way that if you started that color finish by putting on enough coats of sanding sealer/fillercoat over the bare wood to truly hide it, the extra weight pretty much guaranteed a non-flying airplane. Indeed, using colored dope containing heavy pigments was something we learned to avoid when building smaller airplanes that we wanted to fly well.
      No matter how you planned to finish it, like most of the other “pre-plastic” coverings, silkspan could be applied dry by sealing down all the edges of the piece you were working on and then spraying it with water, which when it dried would shrink enough to pull out most wrinkles. The alternate method, which most of us preferred, was to cover wet by pre-moistening the silkspan with water and then taking advantage of the extra flexibility and stretchiness that resulted to pull the covering tight and flat even over compound curves like the top surface of a wing. As the water evaporated the covering would shrink itself really smooth. Once you got used to working with the more delicate, fragile wet silkspan you were almost guaranteed a tighter, neater covering job. Regardless of how you stuck it down, a silkspan covering job was always sealed and strengthened by adding several coats of clear dope. Usually you stopped adding coats when the silkspan began to look noticeably shiny after the dope dried. Using more dope added more weight but even worse, it always threatened to over-tighten the covering and warp (twist) your structure. There are different types of dope as well as various different techniques for using it, but no matter…they all come with a REALLY STRONG SMELL. Even if you didn’t mind it everybody around you DID…and that is one of the best reasons why lots of model airplane builders stopped using dope-and-silkspan as soon as they discovered those new plastic coverings.  Very recently a new product for sealing/surfacing silkspan (as well as other types of tissue) has become available to model builders. It does all the things we want the dope to do, but it DOESN’T SMELL and it doesn’t over-shrink. I will tell you more about this stuff later, but right now I want to talk about one more characteristic of silkspan that really expands its usefulness.
      Silkspan, which is naturally white, used to be available in multiple pre-dyed colors as well. You could find red, yellow, orange, blue, green , black…or even checkerboard-patterned silkspan in red or black stocked right on the hobby shop shelf next the white kind. Can you imagine a model covered with, say, deep golden-yellow translucent silkspan sealed and turned glossy with five or six coats of clear dope, glowing in the afternoon sun at some grassy flying field? This is the effect that those transparent colored film products have been trying for years to reproduce. If you have ever seen a well-executed clear doped colored silkspan (or silk) covering, you will agree with me that they have not yet managed to get it right.
      OK, enough of the history lesson. I have chosen clear doped colored silkspan as the covering/finish of choice for my ongoing series of electric RC conversions of Guillow’s traditional stick-and-tissue balsa model. I am going to show you how to use it a bit differently than we did in the past and in the process explain why learning to do it the new way is such a good idea.
      These are the two Guillow’s Kit. No. 403 Spitfires I talked about in the lead-off article of this series, and they provide an excellent example of what dyed, clear-doped silkspan covering looks like. I’m going to show you how to do stuff like this yourself.Unfortunately, most hobby shops today carry silkspan (or any other tissue-type covering for that matter), and the guy behind the counter probably won’t even know what it is. There are in fact quite a few specialized dealers who sell it…mostly online…but let’s start the easy way. Do you remember my mentioning that Guillow’s, whose models we are featuring in this current Master’s Workshop series, not only include it in their larger kits but are also happy to sell it to you separately? What you are looking at here is a sheet of “OO” silkspan directly out of a Guillow’s kit box.Just for comparison, this is a sheet of significantly thicker/stringer/heavier “SGM” silkspan. This piece happens to be at least sixty years old…it came from a dozen-roll tube sold by Berkeley to complement the materials included in their kits. Because it was kept in a closed container and out of sunlight, it’s in the same condition as when it was new stock on a hobby shop shelf somewhere. In fact, right after taking this picture I included a couple sheets of this old stuff in the same dye bath as the new silkspan from Guillow’s and set it aside for some future project.Here’s where the action is. Ordinary “Rit” fabric dye does an excellent job of coloring silkspan. For this job I used a two-gallon pot and about half of the dye in the packet.The Rit package instructions for dying various fabrics suggest that the dyebath be at a gentle boil. Because silkspan is after all paper, not a textile, I don’t push its “wet strength” so far. The pot you see here is just at the temperature where the water steams slightly before bubbling, at which point I turned down the heat and added all my silkspan to the pot. Open up/unfold every sheet of covering you are going to dye and add it to the dye bath one sheet at a time, gently crumpled, so the dye will get to every corner of each sheet.Everybody into the pool! There are eight separate sheets of silkspan in this pot, which I kept “just simmering” for about twenty minutes while stirring it very gently to keep it all distributed evenly.Following the dye package instructions, the next step is to give the entire dye lot a cool rinse. Can you see how I am adding cold water to the pot while breaking the flow from the faucet with my hand to avoid damaging the covering with a strong stream of water?This part is a waiting game…sort of. According to the Rit directions you should keep adding cold water while pouring off the overflow until the rinse water is nearly clear. That’s what I do and it works.Pulling those wet sheets of now-colored silkspan out of the pot and separating them is a delicate job. If you don’t use plenty of patience and a gentle touch you will tear the sheets taking them out.Wet silkspan all crumpled and folded back on itself is frighteningly easy to damage. I prepare a “drying yard” using as many old bath towels (clean) as it takes to create an area large enough to spread every sheet out, free of folds and significant overlaps, and then work each sheet as nearly flat as I can get it. Here my batch of new Navy Blue silkspan is still pretty bunched up.Proceed slowly! If you look carefully you can see several sheets of covering already spread out at the rear. Once they are all spread out…as you have heard me say before…go away and let it all dry.You can tell by looking when that has happened. A fully-dried sheet of freshly-dyed silkspan is going to appear much less intensely colored than when it was wet. What you see here is a full sheet of Guillow’s standard kit silkspan spread out flat so I can cut it with a fresh/sharp razor blade to get the correct working size piece I need and to create a reliably straight edge to measure from when laying it in place on the airplane.This is what our nice new sheet of Navy-Blue-dyed silkspan looks like once it’s ready to be applied to the balsa surface of an airplane. Next to the Hellcat fuselage you can see a plastic bottle of the new product that is going to allow us to do no-smell doping. Deluxe Materials sells a wide variety of model building products; EzeDope is the one that has been painstakingly developed for the specific job we are about to do. I’ll fill in the details as we go along with a representative portion of a covering job.Before we go any further I want to remind you that on this particular modification of a Guillow’s Kit. No. 1005 Hellcat the entire surface of the model has been converted to sheet balsa covering. To cover open structure we will use a different technique based on another Deluxe Materials product called Tissue Paste. I will feature this in a future article based on a different model. What you see here is the curved upper surface of the Hellcat wing center section, which is flat all the way across the fuselage centerline from one dihedral break to the other. Notice that I have used that freshly cut straight edge of the working piece of silkspan to align it accurately along the center section-outer panel joint (the dihedral break). As we go on you’ll see why this straight-cut edge is going to help us. The most important part of what you see in this shot is how well the now-dry dyed silkspan spreads and flattens and lies snugly against the sheet balsa we’re attaching it to when I work outwards from a central starting point using a brush generously wet with EzeDope.I alternate between “chasing” the dry edge of the covering out across the wing surface with the wet brush and careful thumb-and-finger stretching from the outer edge of the covering to get it down tight against the balsa with NO WRINKLES. We’ll get a better look at this technique during the next several steps.Never pass up the chance to get an overlap where the silkspan (or any other covering) wraps around an edge. In addition to the more finished appearance that I already talked about, doubled-over silkspan provides a significant increase in strength in the structural edge it’s attached to. What you see here is the top of the wing center section with a sheet of blue-dyed silkspan sealed with EzeDope that has dried enough for us to handle it. Where the excess covering runs off the edge at that right-angle corner, which is the inboard end of the left wing flap cutout, I cut it so the resulting free edges can create the overlaps we want.Here’s the same wing center section seen from the front. You can see how neatly that folded-edge overlap works at the trailing edge. With that overlap completed and the EzeDope I used to attach the silkspan dry enough to handle, I’m giving the entire section of new covering/finish a final blend-it-all-together coat of EzeDope.As you have already guessed, I did the let-it-dry thing again before coming back to cover the right wing panel. This time I’ll repeat the process we just saw in better detail. Here I’m beginning by checking that the sheet of blue silkspan is in my hand is big enough for me to cut off a piece just the right size to fit the surface I want to cover.What you see is one end of a single sheet of “OO” silkspan from the Guillow’s kit, dyed and dried, ready for use. I’m marking a cut-off line that will give me a wide enough grab-and-pull margin without wasting material.There are several ways to cut silkspan. These large fabric scissors make it easy to follow that pencil line I just drew.You’ve seen me do this before. Because what will become the inner end of this pierce of silkspan is going to have to fit neatly against the center section edge that’s already on the wing, I need to make another straight cut in order to get a good fit. What you see is what you get…I’ve placed this sheet of covering over a clean, smooth surface so that a single pass along the steel straightedge with a nice sharp new razor blade gives me the clean cut I need. Doing work like this is not a place to try to economize on blades. A standard hardware-store-variety single-edge blade is good for maybe a dozen precision cuts like this before it dulls enough to risk catching and tearing the silkspan.This is about as narrow a gripper margin overhang as you should consider using. It’s WAY better to “waste” a few inches of covering material here than to cut too close and spoil the whole piece so you have to strip it off, throw it away, and start over.Remember “working out from the middle” with the EzeDope? Here’s another close-up look. If you look carefully you can see (at the left behind the brush) where I have pre-aligned those neatly trimmed edges. By now you have figured out that a double layer of dyed silkspan, as created by an edge overlap, is going to appear darker and more deeply colored than the surface around it. On this project I’ve chosen to employ those narrow overlaps to represent the sheet metal skin joints on the full scale Hellcat.More of the same. You will develop a feel for just when it’s time to put down the EzeDope brush and switch over to pulling out all the wrinkles before they get locked in and impossible to fix.With the silkspan EzeDoped’d into place exactly where we want it at the inboard end of the panel it’s time to work the other end smoothly all the way to the wingtip. Again what you see is what you get here. The easy error to make is not using enough EzeDope … keep the brush and the silkspan really wet, or those wrinkles won’t “chase”.We’ve been here before, too. You can see where I’m working to pull enough of that gripper edge of the silkspan down and around the leading edge to provide a good overlap.If you’ve stayed with me so far, this shot needs no explanation.Once again this is more of the same. Where the silkspan is thoroughly wetted with EzeDope around the wingtip you can use the natural curve of you hand to form/squeeze/press it into place.Here I have come back to the leading edge of the right wing panel and I’m using the same technique I did a moment ago with the wingtip. Getting the silkspan securely bonded and “no excuses” smooth just past the center of the leading edge curve is what we want to achieve.I have done the same thing along the right wing tailing edge and now the EzeDope is almost dry. This is one of those places where you’ll have to develop your own sense of judgment…if you use that loose sheet of 220 sandpaper too soon you’ll tear the silkspan and pull it loose. If you wait until it’s completely dry this sanding technique won’t cut cleanly and you will have to work to pull away whatever part of the overlap has gotten stuck past where you wanted it to be. Practice, practice, practice.I have done the same thing along the right wing tailing edge and now the EzeDope is almost dry. This is one of those places where you’ll have to develop your own sense of judgment…if you use that loose sheet of 220 sandpaper too soon you’ll tear the silkspan and pull it loose. If you wait until it’s completely dry this sanding technique won’t cut cleanly and you will have to work to pull away whatever part of the overlap has gotten stuck past where you wanted it to be. Practice, practice, practice.This is how that trimming process looks when you get it right.And … this is the right wing panel all covered, trimmed, and sealed by the EzeDope I used to attach it. There are a couple of steps left to get this covering/finishing job done the way I want it, but we’ll talk about that in my Master’s Workshop Hellcat No. 5 installment (which is scheduled to appear right alongside this lesson).There you have it boys and girls. An old classic that uses a few new tricks and products to get the job done better than ever. Be sure to check back in the next day or two for the latest Master’s Workshop installment, where all of this silkspan goodness will serve you well.
      The post Silkspan How-To: A Blast From The Past With A Few New Twists appeared first on Fly RC Magazine.

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    • By JShumate in FlyRC.com Feed

      Is registration of model aircraft a thing of the past?
      The Federal Appeals Court of the District of Columbia ruled today that the FAA rule requiring that model aircraft be registered was in violation of the section 336 of the FAA Modernization and Reform Act of 2012. In what was called a David vs. Goliath case, John A. Taylor brought the case against the FAA earlier this year. The court stated the following in their ruling.
      In short, the 2012 FAA Modernization and Reform Act provides that the FAA “may not promulgate any rule or regulation regarding a model aircraft,” yet the FAA’s 2015 Registration Rule is a “rule or regulation regarding a model aircraft.” Statutory interpretation does not get much simpler. The Registration Rule is unlawful as applied to model aircraft.
      You can read a full copy of the ruling here.   Taylor VS FAA Opinion
      There is the option for the FAA to appeal the decision but it is unlikely to be heard by a higher court anytime soon. The only other option is for the FAA to lobby congress to repeal or amend the 2012 law.
      This is a huge win for hobbyists and will ease the access to model aviation once again. The registration rule had minimal impact on the safety of the national airspace and was seen as a government intrusion by most. We will continue to watch the progress of cases such as this one and pass the information on to you.
      Today we congratulate John A. Taylor on helping maintain our abilities to enjoy this great hobby without extra burden.
      The post Federal Appeals Court Voids FAA UAS registration rule appeared first on Fly RC Magazine.

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