Our flying field is the Former Champaign Municipal Landfill which was operated as a municipal solid waste landfill from approximately 1955 to 1975. As an AMA chartered Club our goal is to provide a forum for club members to exchange ideas and benefit from each others experiences with the hobby of building and the sport of flying radio controlled model aircraft. We are committed to promoting the enjoyment of safe R/C flying in accordance with AMA and Champaign County Radio Control Club rules and guidelines.
Mailing Address Field Location CCRCC 3616 W. Bloomington Rd. P.O. Box 6105 Champaign, Il. Champaign, Il. 61820 61826-6105
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August 26th and 27th 2017
Until 09 April 2017 12:30 AM
Fly at the University of Illinois Armory
Attached it the rules and waiver form
Spr 2017 Armory Track UAV Rules & Regulations.pdf
Until 11 April 2017 01:30 AM
CCRCC Business Meeting at Lucille’s at Frasca field - 7:00PM
By JShumate in FlyRC.com Feed
Don’t throw away that broken wing just yet. Deluxe Materials has released Fix “n” Flex, a clear, tough, resilient, gap-filling adhesive. It bonds foam, plastic and metal. This adhesive produces flexible bonds in ways that other glues cannot.
Fix ‘n’ Flex is a 1 part, clear, air drying, flexible adhesive with gap filling properties. It has exceptional surface grip and is safe to use, curing at 1-2 mm /hour. Joints that are both waterproof & heatproof. It is especially effective where joints need to:
· Flex, expand, gap fill or withstand shock or vibration.
· Be non-corrosive or aggressive to paints, plastics or electrical parts.
· Withstand heat.
Its uses are many and include:
· Foam models -construction and repairs.
· Bonding plastic servo trays & motor mounts into foam.
· Bonding plastic or carbon fibre stiffeners into foam.
· Securing plugs, leads & cables from vibration.
· Creating exhaust gaskets & sealing cable exits.
· Securing model railway track street furniture, buildings & trees.
· Bonding wood and metal into plastic moulded boat parts.
Dist. By: www. horizonhobby.com
The post Deluxe Materials Fix ‘n’ Flex Adhesive appeared first on Fly RC Magazine.
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By JShumate in FlyRC.com FeedIn the last print issue of Fly RC (April 2017), we got to talk about the Paul K. Guillow Company, examining what they have done as part of the history of American aeromodelling and what they have to offer you today if you are interested in building model airplanes using balsa and various other materials that work well with it. Building model airplanes is what Master’s Workshop has been about since the beginning and that’s the way it’s going to remain. I have chosen to concentrate on Guillow’s kits because they seem to be everywhere you look. The modelers who have built one “stock” (or tried) as well as those who want to learn how to do a practical RC conversion of just about any of them are pretty well beyond counting. I suspect that last month I left you with more questions than answers while talking about the two Kit No. 403 Spitfires I’ve been experimenting with. This is the part where we get to those answers and we’ll do it in the usual Master’s Workshop style … patiently, with plenty of detail.
Wanna’ build a Hellcat? The box cover art Guillow’s has created for their entire line of balsa scale model airplane kits…all of which are Made in America … makes it hard to say no. Let’s talk about all those various kits for a moment. All Guillow’s kits on the market today are presented as stick-and-tissue “flying” models designed for rubber-powered free flight. Some of them, especially the few “non-scale” designs, can realistically be expected to fly that way. Most of the rest show a traditional rubber power prop setup on the plan and with the proper application of model building skill and patience they can be made to fly that way. Some of the more advanced/complex kits are advertised as “non-flying, display-only” models, but those still use the stick-and-tissue approach to design. In fact most of those display kits can be just as successfully converted to electric powered RC as can nearly all of the “flying” jobs. Some of these, like the 400 Series from which last month’s Spitfires come require lots of modification like figuring out working control surfaces as well as a custom RC installation. Others, like the 1000 Series which includes this Hellcat are larger and more complex and already include provision for working controls, which makes practical RC conversion easier. Our Hellcat is a good representation of this part of the Guillow’s line, which is why I have chosen it as our lead-off project. What we are going to do with it is to make those scale control surfaces work, add an appropriate electric motor, ESC and LiPo battery pack, and redesign/replace the original landing gear (with retracts in this case) with something that will survive real-world operations. In addition we are going to explore using several interesting alternative building techniques to improve the exterior surfaces in terms of both appearance and durability. Let’s get on with some model building and I’ll explain each of these modifications as we go along.Let’s begin by getting down to the real basics … what to with all those balsa parts. Some of the “conversion-friendly” kits (like those Kit No. 403 Spitfires) have been upgraded to laser cutting. The Hellcat is not one of these…it depends on the time-honored (and less than perfect) process of die cutting. We have already talked a lot about this. Right now I’m showing you one of the best ways to deal with die-cut parts sheets that may be rough, slightly heavier than you’d like, and not fully cut-through. We are going to sand down the back of each sheet to get a smoother surface, get rid of any excess thickness/weight we don’t really need, and free up any and all incomplete cuts from the back side, which is where the dies may have failed to reach. How much of this you may need to do will vary from one kit to the next. With this Hellcat I chose to use a 220-grit sander to take off about 1/64” of balsa.This is the result. The surface of the balsa is really smooth, and most important, the shallow die cuts have been corrected so the various parts are nearly ready to fall out on their own.Die-cut balsa parts, unlike their laser-cut cousins, are by definition going to be less consistently accurate. This is true for just about any die-cut kit, not just Guillow’s. This is one of the horizontal tail outline parts as it came out of the sheet … can you see the rough edge?You could assemble it as-is, but you shouldn’t. That roughness equates to extra weight, poor parts fit and degraded glue joint strength as a result of the loose joint caused by that roughness. The 320-grit sanding block is the fix for all of that.See the nice smooth, crisp edge that results from a minute or so of extra care? This is one of those old-timer model building “secrets” that you have to want to learn about to do this stuff right.I’m not sure whether this is “old time” or not…I have never seen anyone else do this. An ordinary ¼” paper punch will make clean holes through soft to medium balsa sheet up to about 3/32” thick. Removing weight from the tail of any model is a good idea if you can do it without compromising structural integrity. These edge parts are going to get some serious reinforcement before long that will work in concert with the lightening holes…watch for what I’m going to do.We are looking at the upper surface of the right horizontal tail tip. The 1/8” thick balsa spar is the beginning of Guillow’s “Action Plan” working control surfaces option that’s part of this kit.See how it goes together? Notice the temporary 1/16” sheet balsa spacers between the stabilizer trailing edge and the elevator leading edge? At this point everything is “stock Guillow’s kit” with the exception of the lightening holes.Here’s another look at the same structure with all the “ribs” in place. These are also standard die cut kit parts. Off-camera I have also built up the corresponding fin/rudder structure.If you have read my stuff before you already know what’s coming next. SANDING is critical to doing a good job of building ANY balsa model airplane. What’s happening here is that I have placed a full sheet of 120-grit paper flat on my work surface so I can press-and-drag this elevator section across it for improved precision and control (and less chance of breaking it) that I could ever achieve using a loose-held sanding block (In real life, off-camera, I used my other hand to steady the sheet while moving the working part against it).More of the same. Can you see how this method may very well be the only one you can use to sand a double taper into that trailing edge without destroying it?Back to working with those die cut parts. Exactly per the Guillow’s plan/instructions I made pencil marks along the edges of all the “F” parts (the wing ribs) to locate all the spar notch cutouts that need to be made. Guillow’s very wisely left theses delicate (1/16” sq.) cutouts to be marked and cut by hand in the interest of accuracy as well as to avoid lots of split balsa parts.This is the best way I have found to make the initial cross-grain spar notch cuts and keep them all lined up.I chose to clean up some of the spar notch cuts individually.After that I used a No. 11 blade to finish cutting each notch along the grain. The razor blade is too wide to do that without making the cut oversize.Our next job is to cut off all the wing rib trailing edges to form separate aileron and flap ribs. I’m making one big change here. The Guillow’s Action Plan shows parallel vertical cuts to create room for two 3/32” balsa sheet surface edges to fit into place parallel to each other. This anticipates “scale” control surfaces hinged at their mid-line, which would look OK for static display but won’t permit sufficient flap/aileron movement for real flying. Can you see how this change will allow then rear balsa piece (the flap/aileron leading edge) to be top-edge-hinged for a useful range of motion? NOTE: Both Guillow’s and I know that this approach does not replicate the true-scale Hellcat control surface cross sections and hinge geometry. I am making the judgment call that on a model this small the fussiness and extra weight of scale accuracy aren’t justified. What we’re doing here will look OK and work dependably.I’m going to make some serious lightening holes in most of the wing ribs. For now I will make no cutouts in ribs F-3, F-4 and F-5. They become part of the modified landing gear installation which we will look at later, and at this point in the prototype construction I was not yet sure exactly what was going to be necessary. For now, mark the ribs you are going to lighten like this …… then go ahead and define the corners of each opening with the same paper punch you used on the tail surface parts.With all those corners punched it’s easy to finish cutting all the openings. The shape of the cutouts is not critical beyond taking care not to weaken any of the ribs by removing too much material …EXCEPT that the longer opening at the rear of all the inboard ribs will have to serve as pass-through openings for the aileron servo cables.Before going on to assembling them it would be a good idea to bevel both ends of each rib like this so that they will fit precisely against the inner faces of the leading and trailing edges.Ready for assembly the ribs look like this.With all the wing ribs prepared for assembly the next step is to lay out all the leading and trailing edge parts (along with the wing tips) on the plan exactly per the Action Plan instructions.I have pinned this sub-trailing-edge (part M-2) in place so you can see how each rib in turn lines up with it.Partially assembled the wing looks like this. We are building the center section and both outer panels flat on the building surface per the Guillow’s plans. At this point the only changes I have made in the wing are those lightening holes and the angled cuts for the control surface leading edges.That changes now. As I mentioned in Step 17, I chose to modify the flap and aileron cross sections so they will operate properly as top-edge-hinged control surfaces. To make that work the flap/aileron leading edge parts (M-5 etc,) must be replaced with new parts that are wide enough to lie at a 45 degree angle to the wing trailing edge. You can use trigonometry to figure out this new width if you like, but I was OK with a cut-and-fit approach to making these changes. That’s the kit part on the left and the new one on the right.This is a close-up look at part of the right wing flap assembly. The plans show you where each preliminary flap structure is cut apart to form three separate flaps sections on each wing. The 1/16” balsa sheet spacers are temporarily put in place per the Guillow’s kit instructions.Here’s the entire primary wing structure in place on the work board. You can see the second change I made to the Guillow’s kit design if you examine the wing tip. In the kit this is a 3/32” sheet balsa “outline” part to which all the upper surface 1/16” sq. spars bend down and taper to blend in. Check out any full-scale reference photo or drawing (including the scale drawings on the plan) and you’ll see the discrepancy. I replaced the E-3 outlines by tracing them onto a piece of soft/light ½” thick balsa. Cut to the correct shape on my Dremel scroll saw they get assembled just as if they were the original parts. The 1/16” sq. spars that were to taper will now end flush against the inner face of each new tip block, which I will carve/sand to a finished contour after all the sheet balsa wing skin is in place.Per the Guillow’s instructions I have cut the wing assembly apart to make separate center and outer panels as well as separate control surfaces.This is the right outer panel. I am using a No. 11 blade to do some preliminary shaping of the leading edge. I’ll finish this job later with a sanding block.Do you remember the technique of sanding one entire surface of an assembled structure flat and true against a broad stationary abrasive sheet? One of the advantages of this method is the reduced risk of catching odd edges or corners and breaking the part.Same deal goes for the flap sections …… as well as for the bottom face of the center section.This is one end of the underside of the center section. When you are finished that “make it all smooth and even” sanding job it should look like this.
Next time we’ll assemble the wing and work on the modifications I have planned for the landing gear.
The post Master’s Workshop #50: Guillow’s Hellcat RC Conversion appeared first on Fly RC Magazine.
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By JShumate in FlyRC.com FeedBy Gary A. Ritchie
In this column we will build the turtledeck – the portion of the upper fuselage that lies behind the cockpit. That will set the stage for designing and building a removable battery hatch that contains the canopy.
After the glue dried on the turtledeck formers, the ¼” balsa stringers were positioned in the notches at the upper corners of the former, glued into place with Deluxe Speed Bond and clamped to dry.Ignore the section in the instruction manual called “Fit Fuel Tank and Fuelproof Tank Compartment” (Page 25, Steps 1 – 6) and be grateful that you will not have to “fuelproof” this electric powered airplane. Begin at Step 1 of “Install TurtleDeck”. The first sentence contains a typo that can be confusing. The word “pans” should be “parts”. Find the needed formers and then sand them smooth around the edges. Glue them all in place as described in Step 1 and 2. Then glue the ½” square balsa stringers in place on top of the formers and sand the stringers as described in Step 4. I used Deluxe Speed Bond glue here because it dries relatively quickly but offers time to make adjustments (Figure 1).
Before the turtledeck sides were glued in place, 1/8” x 1/8” balsa strips were glued along the tops of the fuselage sides 1/8” in from the edges (white arrow). These served as shelves against which to glue and pin the turtledeck sides.Following the illustration below Step 5 (Page 26) construct two turtle deck sides and sand them carefully along their bottom edges to assure that they are straight. I added a step here to make it easier to achieve a good joint between the turtle deck sides and the fuselage. This involved cutting several thin strips of 1/8” square scrap balsa and gluing them along the inside edges of the fuselage sides (Figure 2). They are offset in from the fuselage edges by 1/8”, providing a
Each turtledeck side was glued in place along the shelves and fuselage sides using Deluxe Speed Bond glue, and then pinned and taped in place. This photo shows the right side.shelf against which the turtledeck sides will be glued and pinned. Glue and pin one side in place, against these strips, and tape it down securely with masking tape to dry (Figure 3). After it is fully dried, go ahead and glue the other side in place, and then pin it and tape it down also.
After the glue dried, the turtledeck sides were wetted with water, gently curved inwards by hand, and then glued along the formers and stringers. Then they were securely held in place to dry with masking tape.Once these joints are fully dry and both sides are glued in place, wet them with water, apply glue to the formers and stringers, pull the sides up tightly and tape them in place. The tape will not stick to the wet balsa, so the tape strips must run most of the way around the fuselage in order to hold tightly (Figure 4). The instructions suggest using thick CA for this step. I would highly recommend slow curing glue such as Deluxe Aliphatic Resin, which will give you more working time, is very strong and sands well.
After the glue was thoroughly dried, the tops of the turtledeck sides were carefully sanded flush with the tops of the formers and stringers.I let this structure dry overnight then removed the tape and trimmed the sheeting flush with formers F-3A and F-6A (Step 9, Page 26). Then, using my 2” wide sanding block with 80 grit paper, I carefully sanded the top edges of the sheeting until they were flush with the stringers as shown in Step 10 and in my Figure 5. This will bring you to Step 11, Page 27. Before gluing the ½” x 2 3/8” by 26” turtledeck top in place, you may want to bevel its forward edge – it’s easier to do it now than after the top is glued on. Then draw a centerline as shown below Step 11.
The ½” thick turtledeck top was glued in place with Deluxe Aliphatic Resin, then taped and secured with rubber bands to dry.Finally, liberally apply Deluxe Aliphatic Resin, or another type of slow curing glue, to the tops of the stringers and formers and then glue the turtledeck top to them. Center up it up before the glue dries. Pinning it in place is not practical here because the wood is too thick. So I taped it in place with masking tape and further secured it with rubber bands. I placed them over the tape strips so they wouldn’t dig into the wood and leave marks (Figure 6).
Before sanding the turtledeck top, the fuselage assembly was secured in a Workmate. The surface of the Workmate was covered with several sheets of cloth to protect the fuselage.Mark the center lines on F-6A and along the top of the turtledeck then fasten it securely in either a vice or a Shop Mate (Figure 7). If you have a small hand razor plane this will speed the sanding process up. Also, if you trust yourself not to get too aggressive, you can also rough it out with a power hand sander (Figure 9). This is what I did and I found that it worked very well. Be sure to wear your respirator because this thing really generates a ton of balsa dust. Then finish it with your block sander and 50 or 80 grit paper.
A hand power sander with #80 grit sandpaper was used to rough sand the turtledeck top. Be sure to use a respirator when sanding balsa.On the top of Page 27 the HINT suggests sanding the upper turtledeck with a strip of fine sandpaper. This is a good idea. To do this I held the fuselage in my Shop Mate and sanded the aft portion of the fuselage
Final sanding was done with a strip of #320 grit sandpaper while the fuselage was held tightly in the Workmate.(Figure 9), then turned it around and sanded the forward part. This does a very nice job of smoothing and evening out the turtledeck.
With the turtledeck finished and the battery tray in place, I test fitted the battery in the battery hatch (Figure 10). It fit like a glove.
After the fuselage and turtledeck were finished, the battery was test mounted in the battery hatch.That does it for this session. Next time we will build the removable hatch cover that will conceal the battery hatch and hold the canopy in place. We will go way off plan for this tricky build. For this you will need to pick up a sheet of 1/8” thick by 4” wide plywood.
Until then, remember to “take your time and enjoy doing a good job”.
The post RC Kits: The Great Planes Ultra Sport 60 … Building The Turtle Deck appeared first on Fly RC Magazine.
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By JShumate in Quadcopters (Drones)You often hear on the news or seeing a video on youtube about someone doing something unsafe with a quadcopter (note, I say quadcopter instead of drone, all radio controlled aircraft are drones regardless of the amount of props or whether it is fixed wing).
Anyone can fly a quad safely if they follow the FAA (Federal Aviation Administration), AMA (Acadamy of Model Aeronautics) and some common sense guidelines. I would like to share some of the guidelines with some no so safe videos.
Why do we need to operate our aircraft no matter the configuration of it? Well, how many times has the government regulated things when it becomes a nuisance to the public? Up until the quadcopter craze the biggest hassle most probably had to deal with would be the noise of a giant scale gas engine (not to say nothing ever happened, but you didn't here about a 40% Extra 300 crashing on the White House lawn like we did about quad a few years ago). SO the more unsafe or ridiculous things done with quads will effect the hobby as a whole, the uneducated public sees them all the same and no longer will flying be seen as a rich old guy hobby, it'll be seen as a way for young folks out to be out to cause trouble.
The FAA rules basically are (visit Know Before You Fly for the complete information and to register with the FAA) -
Follow community-based safety guidelines, as developed by organizations such as the Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA).
Fly no higher than 400 feet and remain below any surrounding obstacles when possible.
Keep your sUAS in eyesight at all times, and use an observer to assist if needed.
Remain well clear of and do not interfere with manned aircraft operations, and you must see and avoid other aircraft and obstacles at all times.
Do not intentionally fly over unprotected persons or moving vehicles, and remain at least 25 feet away from individuals and vulnerable property.
Contact the airport and control tower before flying within five miles of an airport or heliport. (Read about best practices here)
Do not fly in adverse weather conditions such as in high winds or reduced visibility.
Do not fly under the influence of alcohol or drugs.
Ensure the operating environment is safe and that the operator is competent and proficient in the operation of the sUAS.
Do not fly near or over sensitive infrastructure or property such as power stations, water treatment facilities, correctional facilities, heavily traveled roadways, government facilities, etc.
Check and follow all local laws and ordinances before flying over private property.
Do not conduct surveillance or photograph persons in areas where there is an expectation of privacy without the individual’s permission
A bit of common sense really comes into play and you really should try to be realistic about your ability for fly a certain aircraft, for example, my DJI Phantom 3 Standard almost flies itself and requires little input from me and therefore I am confident of flying it at 300 feet high and several hundred feet away from me (still within my sight) where as my Dromida Vista is not nearly as stable and requires continual input to control it, so I do not push it to the limits of the DJI even though it is technically capable of the same thing.
A few examples of common sense items to get you thinking are "what ifs", anything what if can be a safety hazard,
What if you decided your micro quad would be fun to tease your dog with, flying just above out of the reach of your dog - sounds fun, I am sure the pooch would have fun chasing it but oops, a slight breeze push it down just a bit quicker than you can react and now the blades are tangled in the fur of your dogs ear causing pain and a possible fit from the dog and you get bit trying to free it.
What if you life in a major city, flying high about your house (100% over your property), it is a bit breezy and one of your motors overheats and quits, the other 3 blades try to compensate but can't and know it is spiraling out of control and crashes into an 18 wheeler on the interstate next to your house causing a 20 car pile up and getting 6 people killed.
2 examples that are possible like many other things, and when things go bad they tend to go real bad. I just want you to think about you surroundings, know your skills and equipment well and always limit the risk of the worst happening.
This guy thinks he is being funny, I wonder how the school district would feel if the had crashed into the bus, or how he would feel if a neighbor took a shotgun to the quad?
Prime example of a high altitude flight which even though this guy claims no planes fly over his area, you never know when a private plane or heli will pass over. At about 8:32 you can see a train in the video, Imagine if this crashed into the conductors window.
That's my rant about common sense safety, fly smart, fly safe. Do that and we will all get to fly for a long time to come,
By JShumate in FlyRC.com FeedPilot Josh Bernstein says: For beginning to intermediate pilots, the SU29mm 1.1 provides a wide flight envelope encompassing excellent sport and traditional aerobatic mannerisms. The plane is capable of many of the more popular 3D maneuvers, though it would be a stretch to call it a “3D trainer.” Like many 3D aerobatic planes of its size, low-n-slow post-stall (hovers, harriers) should probably be left to pilots towards the advanced end of the spectrum, as some wing-rock was noticeable. However, the AS3X system (now fully customizable!) does go a long way in keeping stability in check. The stock servos are surprisingly strong and quick, allowing for snappy transitions and some fairly aggressive tumbles. Power is plentiful from the 10-sized brushless, with a nice balance between pitch-speed and gravity scoffing punch-outs. Some coupling was present during knife-edge, though nothing a quick mix couldn’t fix. All in all, a nice flying bird, with plenty of power and a wide flight envelope. A park-flyer sized aerobat with attitude!
Wingspan: 44.0 (1120 mm) Length: 42.3 (1074mm) Flying Weight: 40.6 oz (1150 g) Wing Loading: 14.5 oz/sq. ft. Motor: 10 size BL outrunner 1250 Kv Speed Controller: 40-Amp Switch-Mode BEC with EC3 connector Servos: 13 gram digital micro (4)
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Our field is located at 3616 W. Bloomington Rd, Champaign Illinois 61820