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Yuneec Mantis-Q

From Yuneec:
Your adventure awaits. Mantis is ready. Small yet powerful, Mantis Q features cutting edge, advanced drone features such as voice control and facial detection in an easy-to-use, ultra portable package. Thanks to its energy-efficient design, the drone can stay in the air for a category-leading 33 minutes, allowing pilots plenty of time to record great photos and video clips. When folded together, the Mantis is small enough to tuck in a bag and weighs just 1 pound. It’s the ideal companion for big and small adventures alike. Capture your memories in 4K UHD Using an integrated camera, the Mantis Q records high resolution photos and videos. Still images with a resolution of 4800×2700 (16:9) or 4160×3120 (4:3) pixels are saved in JPEG or DNG format on the included MicroSD card; the same goes for up to 4K of recorded videos. Additionally, the camera can be tilted upwards by up to 20 degrees or downwards by 90 degrees during flight. For cinematic camera flights, the Mantis Q also comes with automatic flight modes such as Journey, Point of Interest and Orbit Me. Vision based tracking and face detection Simply smile at the drone to activate face detection and as soon as the Mantis Q “sees” the user’s face, it will take a photo from up to 13 feet away. In Gesture Control mode, Mantis Q will detect a hand waving and it will take a photo. “Mantis, take a selfie!” With the all new Voice Control feature, users can command Mantis Q just by using their voice. Voice control allows users to take a photo or begin recording video all without having to manually take their hands off of the controls, making it that much easier to capture the perfect shot. Mantis Q responds to commands such as “Wake up” for powering on, “Take a picture”, “Record a video” and “Take a selfie”. Intelligent flight modes Take your creativity to the next level by letting Mantis Q focus on the flying while you focus on the shot. Journey Mode Depending on the desired setting, the Mantis Q will fly upwards on a linear path and then return automatically – making for the perfect shot. Point of Interest Select an object while in POI (Point of Interest) mode and the Yuneec Mantis Q will circle this object automatically. Return Home With a push of a button, the Mantis Q will automatically return to a point near its takeoff area and land by your side. Safe to fly indoors and outdoors Unlike most in its class, Mantis Q comes equipped with advanced indoor stabilization technology. Down-facing dual sonar sensors and infrared detection make it safe enough to fly indoors and outdoors. Added safety features include a “Return to Home” function and FAA-compliant software. Fast-paced fun while flying Users also have the option to fly Mantis Q with and without the added controller. If users want to experience the thrill of drone racing, they can switch to the Mantis Q’s Sport Mode. The Mantis Q can fly up to a maximum speed of 44 miles per hour – and that’s all while performing with the agility of a real racer. The live image can be viewed with a latency of less than (200ms) on a smartphone which is connected to the remote control. Specs: Aircraft TAKEOFF WEIGHT (INCL. CAMERA AND BATTERY): 16.9 oz
DIMENSIONS: 9 27/32″ x 7 23/64″ x 2 9/32″ (LxWxH, unfolded) — 6 39/64″ x 3 25/32″ x 2 9/32″ (LxWxH, folded)
FLIGHT TIME: Up to 33 min (in no wind environment at a constant speed of 15.5 MPH)
MAXIMUM RATE OF ASCENT: Angle/Manual Mode: 6.7 MPH // Sport Mode: 8.9 MPH // IPS/Phone Mode: 4.5 MPH
MAXIMUM RATE OF DESCENT: Angle/Manual Mode: 4.5 MPH // Sport Mode: 6.7 MPH // IPS/Phone Mode: 2.2 MPH
MAXIMUM FLIGHT SPEED: Angle/Manual Mode: 13.4 MPH // Sport Mode: 44.7 MPH // IPS/Phone Mode: 8.9 MPH
BATTERY: 3S 2800mAh, changeable
RADIO RANGE: 4,921 ft (FCC standard)
OPERATING TEMPERATURE: 32° F – 104° F
SATELLITES: GPS & GLONASS Camera SENSOR: 1/3.06 inch CMOS
PHOTO RESOLUTION: 4:3 (4160×3120); 16:9 (4800×2700)
PHOTO FORMAT: JPEG / JPEG+DNG
VIDEO RESOLUTION: 4K: 3840 x 2160 @ 30fps // 1080P: 1920 x 1080 @30fps or @60fps (with image stabilization) // 720P: 1280 x 720 @60fps (with image stabilization)
VIDEO FORMAT: MP4 / MOV
IMAGE STABILISATION: 3-axis stabilized (Electronic Image Stabilization EIS)
CONTROL RANGE: -90° to 20°
VIEW FIELD: 117°
EQUIVALENT FOCAL LENGTH: 21.5 mm (0.85″)
SD CARD: Class 10 or U3 8/16/32/64/128G
ISO RANGE: 100 – 3200
ELECTRONIC SHUTTER: For Photo Mode: 8s-1/8000s / For Video Mode: 1/30-1/8000
EXPOSURE COMPENSATION: 0, ±0.5, ±1.0, ±1.5, ±2.0, ±2.5, ±3.0
WHITE BALANCE: Auto, Lock, Sunny, Cloudy, Fluorescent, Incandescent
SCENERY MODES: Nature, Saturation, RAW, Night, Soft
METERING MODE: Spot Metering, Center Metering, Average Metering
PHOTO MODES: Single Shot, Face Detection, Gesture Control
DOWNLOADING SPEED PHOTOS: 1 MB/s Remote NUMBER OF CHANNELS: 10
VIDEO TRANSMISSION: 4,921 ft (FCC standard, optimum conditions)
BATTERY: 1S 3.7V 3000mAh Li-Ion, built-in App REQUIRED OPERATING SYSTEM: iOS 9.0 or above (Voice Control iOS10 or above, Voice Control with local processing iOS11 or above) / Android 5.0 or above (Voice Control requires internet connection)
Visit Yuneec.com
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JShumate

JShumate

 

New for Premium Members

An RC pilot’s guide to flying off water When most RC modelers decide to try flying off water the question arises, “So which is better: a floatplane or a flying boat?” A floatplane, where the fuselage is sitting up on two floats, is probably easier to control during takeoff, but a flying boat, where the lower section of the fuselage is shaped like a boat’s hull, seems more forgiving when it comes to landing and taxiing in windy or choppy conditions. We just posted this informative article on the Premium website to help explain the basics for those RC pilots who want to get wet! To read this and other exclusive online content Click Here and subscribe to the Model Airplane News Premium site. The post New for Premium Members appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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JShumate

 

Helping our Hobby Grow

Start a New RC Event If you have ever attended and flown at an RC national or regional event, then you know there’s a lot involved to be successful. Many of our flying buddies, have yet to travel past their local flying field and for many of them, they see our hobby and interest in RC airplanes in general diminish. A great way to help our hobby grow and inject some fresh excitement into any club’s flying field is to start an AMA sanctioned event and then invite RC flyers from other clubs to join in on the fun. Requirements The very first thing I look at is: “will the event will fit in your location”. Meaning, where will everything fit in place? Let’s say we are expecting 60 pilots. Is there room for all 60 to park their vehicles and trailers near where they will pit from? Good. Now, if you are expecting spectators, do you have room for a few hundred cars? Is the parking area solid enough so that if it rains you don’t have a mud-hole? Great. 60 pilots most likely will have a significant other whether that person is their wife, girlfriend, caller or helper. Playing the averages, you can expect at least 65% to have one of these so the base attendance has just increased to about 100 folks. Now, are we gonn’a feed these people? Yes? Great, and how about the spectators? Okay, so do we have a clean spot for a food vendor to set up his operation? Oh, you didn’t think of a food vendor? The Club will take care of it? Great, and they have experience in having 30 or 40 people come all at once at lunchtime for something to eat? If not, then let’s get looking for a food vendor. If we have reached this point, I’ll take it for granted that the event is a GO, so we should apply for the AMA event sanction. Okay, we’ve got a great field to fly from, safe and with plenty of overfly area. We’ve got plenty of space for our pilots and their trailers and some designated area for spectators to park. Are you charging admission? Like $10 a car load or maybe just $5 a person? And you have some club members to stand by the entrance to accept the entrance fee and make change? And of course you figured on a relief crew right? I mean you don’t expect two people to stand there all day do you? Yes, I provide a shade tent for our people at the gate and we do provide chairs for them to sit and rest and we do have an alternate on site to replace someone if they get too hot or just too tired? Oh yes, and because we are charging an admission fee to spectators we also must comply with the Law and provide “Handicap” parking spaces. These spaces must be close to the action so as to shorten the distance from the cars to the viewing area The Basics Well, let’s see, has anybody thought of where to place the porta-potties? That is potties with an S because with a hundred pilots and crew and a few hundred spectators, one pottie just ain’t gonn’a cut it! Just to be safe, let’s get two regular units and one handicap unit. And when we order the toilets, plan on one “clean-out” service, say Saturday morning, to have them all refreshed. Those holding tanks only accommodate about 1 and a half day’s usage. And let’s not forget we’ll need someone designated to keep those units stocked with tissue. Seems we’ve pretty much got it all taken care of now. I mean, if we really wanted to be a class act, we could spring for the $400 to have a “Dining Tent” put up so that patrons and pilots can sit and eat in comfort, out of the sun and dust. Good idea? Great! Flightline Management Heading up to the business end of the site, let’s see what we need to do to make the pilot areas work. Of course we’ll need some sort of tent or structure to house the Registration table. And a PA system would sure be nice so we are able to make announcements. Let’s put someone in charge of setting up the PA system, amplifiers and speakers and check them out beforehand so that we don’t have to fuss with them during the event. Of course a person to handle the announcements, or to keep the spectators informed of what’s flying, would be a cool treat. Don’t forget some sort of large umbrella for that announcer area to keep the guy from frying! Perhaps the next thing to address is something to act as a barrier, and to designate a viewing area, to help protect spectators. We should also think of how we want to protect the pilots from any airplane having a mishap while taking off or landing. PVC pipe makes a great structure with some orange construction fencing tie-wrapped to keep it in place. And while on that subject of keeping pilots safe, are we going to have a “Flight Line Crew” to help announce departures and arrivals, to help avoid any possible collisions? Even two guys would be useful. OH, one more thing! If our site is one that is friendly to belly landings and is wide open enough that we can easily get to downed aircraft, some sort of “Crash Cart” is essential! A Gator or similar vehicle works great. If jets will be in attendance, we really should have some sort of fire-fighting equipment on a trailer towed behind the crash cart to help distinguish any small flames. It’s also a great idea to notify the local Police and Fire Department that you are hosting an event, offering them two contact people’s names and cell phone numbers and the address of the field. Anything Else? Well, I think we’ve about got it! Other than procedural stuff, like whether you allow guys to taxi-back after landing or wish them to clear the runway ASAP, I believe the event is about ready to open for business. Of course we must get some road signs put up in strategic areas to inform the public what and where this show is taking place, and we’ll make sure that the area where the people collect the admission fee is far enough inside the property so not to cause traffic problems with cars stacked up waiting to get in. And we did think of making the entrance road wide enough to allow emergency vehicles to enter or exit while a line of cars is stacked up, right? Great, then as far as I can tell we are all set to rock and roll. Have a great event!   SB- First Time Event Check List Discuss details with club members Decide what type of event: Fun Fly, Fly In, Competition, Special Theme. Check for usable dates to avoid conflicts with other nearby events Assign task to AMA qualified Contest Director Contact possible sponsors for awards/prizes/support Send event flyers and invitations to local clubs. (email and USPS) Plan for food, safety and porta-pottie(s) Assign jobs for pilot registration, parking and flightline management Advertise locally and in AMA magazine Make “Thank You” signage to display at event for sponsors After event, publish Club Newsletter to highlight event results and send to local clubs, the AMA and to all Sponsors.   The post Helping our Hobby Grow appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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JShumate

JShumate

 

Award Winning SR-71 Blackbird

First flown at the 2017 Top Gun Scale Invitational, Top Gun competitor Lance Campbell of Columbia, Missouri, competed with his amazing SR-71 Blackbird spy plane, which scored an impressive 99.167 static points. At the Top Gun awards banquet, Lance also received the Engineering Excellence award, as well as the Critic’s Choice award. Lance returned in 2018 for the 30th anniversary of Top Gun and you could tell Lance has been practicing: he earned the top 1st place position in the Masters Class. He also brought home the Engineering Excellence award. He earned a total flight score of 198.042. Some pretty good recognition for Lance’s 9 year long project. Lance uses a Futaba radio to control his 85-pound SR-71 and it is an impressive 13 feet long. Powered by a pair of JetCat 140-RXi turbines, and he completely scratch built the scale retractable landing gear complete with disc brakes. The amazing spy plane also uses a scale drogue chute to shorten the landing run out after touchdown. Check out this great flight video shot at Paradise Field the home venue for Top Gun.     And since a photo is worth a 1000 words, here they are for all of you to enjoy. If you’d like to read more about the background Lance’s amazing 9-tear project, here’s his build log for the plane, that spanned years: http://www.mmrca.org/lance/sledframe.html The post Award Winning SR-71 Blackbird appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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JShumate

JShumate

 

Model Airplane Fuel Systems Explained

Radio control model airplanes rely on two basic systems to fly, the radio system and the power system (excluding gliders). When you have a nitro-burning glow engine if your engine loses its fuel supply, you’ll find yourself in a dead-stick situation with a plane that wasn’t designed to be a glider. To prevent dead-stick landings, the first steps are taken at the workbench while you install the fuel tank and other necessary fuel-system components. Though this is an easy task for experienced builders, newcomers may find it a bit of a challenge. This article will highlight some of the basics of the fuel components that feed your model’s engine and will make all that plumbing more understandable. THE BASICS Fuel tanks come in all shapes and sizes. Fuel filters are worth their weight in gold! Clean fuel means no trash in the tanks. Whenever possible, pad your fuel tank with foam rubber-it helps prevent “foaming.” Just like the family car, the fuel tank contains the engine’s fuel supply. The tank is connected to the engine’s carburetor with flexible fuel line (plastic tubing), and a rubber stopper seals it. For a tank to operate properly, it must have a vent line that allows air to enter the tank as fuel is drawn out. It relieves the vacuum left in the tank. Model airplanes don’t always fly straight and level. To allow the fuel to flow at different attitudes, the tank has a flexible internal pick-up tube. A heavy “clunk” fitting is attached to the end of the pick-up tube to always keep the end of the tube at the lowest part of the tank. If the pick-up tube wasn’t flexible, once the fuel level dropped below the pick-up tube, the supply of fuel would stop and the engine would die. Lengths of brass tube pass through the tank’s rubber stopper, and the fuel lines that carry the fuel to the engine slip over the ends brass tubes. The rest of the fittings and accessories help the fuel system work properly and make it easier to maintain and operate. BAD VIBES Making your fuel tank easy to get to makes maintenance of your fuel system easier to do. The removable fuel tank tray can also secure your battery packs. One common problem that can lead to your engine running lean is fuel foaming in the tank. Vibration causes this and it forms tiny bubbles in the fuel. The bubbles cause erratic fuel flow and the air in the bubbles causes the fuel mixture to lean out. The simple solution to this is to make sure to properly pad your fuel tank with soft foam rubber. Also, make sure that after time, you check the padding to see if any part of the unprotected tank is coming in contact with the model’s inner structure like a former or engine mount bolt or nut. I prefer to use rubber bands to hold the foam padding in place but you can also use tape. Make sure you don’t compress the foam too much as this will lessen its ability to isolate the tank from the vibration. Regular maintenance is key to keeping your entire model in top condition. One way to keep a better eye on your fuel system is to make the tank removable. When there is no fuel tank compartment hatch, I make a slide-in tank tray from lite-ply and a matching set of rails inside the fuselage. This way, I can slide the tank into place and secure it with a couple of small screws. You can save more space by attaching your battery pack to the tray as well. This system works extremely well, especially with large airplanes. To choose the correct size fuel tank for your airplane, check your kit’s directions or check the engine manufacturer’s recommendations. You’ll want a tank that can hold enough fuel for a 15 to 20 minute flight. TWO-LINE SETUP Adding a fuel filter to your fuel supply line gives you double protection. A two-line fuel system is the simplest and almost foolproof way to go. The setup requires only two pieces of brass tube, a clunk, a rubber stopper and a short length of silicone tubing. Bend one tube 90 degrees to form the vent and insert it through the stopper. The vent lets outside air in as the fuel is drained out, and it acts as an overflow indicator when you fill the tank. The second tube is the fuel-supply for the engine and the interior pick-up tube and clunk are attached to it. To fill the tank, the fuel supply tubing is removed from the carburetor and attached to your filler pump line. When the tank is full, you simply reattach the line to your carburetor. The vent line is often attached to a pressure fitting on the engine’s muffler. This arrangement helps pressurize the tank to enhance fuel flow to the engine. 2-line setup The simplest and most trouble-free setup is a two-line tank. THREE-LINE SETUP In a three-line tank, the setup is just like for a two-line arrangement, but a third line is added and used to fill the tank. The third line doesn’t need an interior pick-up line and clunk, but many do add them to allow the removal of fuel at the end of the day. Before running your engine, you must seal off or cap the third line to prevent fuel from leaking out. Fuel line plugs called “Fuel Dots” are available commercially to do this, but you can also use a tight-fitting machine screw or a short piece of ?-inch-diameter brass rod material as well. In a pinch, you can use a one-inch length of ?-inch dowel. 3-LINE SETUP Three-line tank setups allow convenient tank filling without removing the fuel line from the engine. ILLUSTRATIONS BY FX MODELS   TROUBLESHOOTING Properly installed, your glow engine fuel system will last a very long time and may never need to be changed. In a hard landing, however, some of its parts may be dislodged or a line can become kinked or pinched. Here are some common fuel-flow problems and fixes. After a hard landing, the flexible pickup tube and clunk inside the fuel tank can be forced all the way forward. This can go unnoticed until the next flight when the tank stops delivering fuel to the engine in a nose-high attitude. To prevent this, solder a short piece of brass tube to your clunk. This decreases the pick-up tube’s flexibility a bit but still allows it to draw fuel in normal flying attitudes. If your engine starts to run lean for no apparent reason, check for small pinholes in the fuel-supply lines. Check closely where ever there is a tight bend or where the fuel or line comes into contact with the firewall. To help prevent chafing at the fire-wall pass-through, drill a small hole in the firewall and use a length of brass tube in the holes. Slip the fuel lines over the brass tubes to complete the system. If your engine begins to run erratically, debris may have gotten into your fuel system. It usually finds its way into the model’s fuel tank from your fuel storage jug, and if it blocks fuel flow, your engine will die. To prevent this, use an in-line fuel filter in the fuel supply line just before the carburetor. Install another filter in your fuel-pump line so you fill your tank with clean filtered glow fuel. Add a combination fuel clunk/filter, and you have a triple defense against dead-sticks. The post Model Airplane Fuel Systems Explained appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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JShumate

JShumate

 

Fiberglassing Wings Made Easy

There are many ways to apply fiberglass cloth to a structure. The most common methods use either polyester or epoxy resin and catalysts. Some of the resins require unequal mix ratios, like 1 part epoxy to 2 parts hardener, which is difficult to measure accurately. I also dislike polyester resin because it really smells foul. For all these reasons, I now use Pacer Technology’s Z-Poxy Finishing Resin (#PT40). It is an equal-mix product that has little to no smell and is easy to work with. Cure time to a tacky consistency is about 30 to 45 minutes. After about two hours you can handle it, and after four to five hours, you can sand it or apply another coat. Even if you have never done this before, it is really easy to do. Let’s get started Some items you will need are paper towels, 1-inch hardware-store chip brushes, something stiff to use as a “squeegee” (a credit card works great, as do plastic-coated playing cards), a hobby knife with no. 11 blades, Z-Poxy Finishing Resin, and some denatured alcohol. A flat surface, like an old table or workbench, covered with newsprint or some other disposable covering is excellent for setting parts on. You will also need some 100- and 220-grit sandpaper to smooth out your prep work. A rubber sanding block, available at most hardware stores, will help enormously. Oh yes, and some 5-oz. disposable drinking cups will be useful for mixing the resin. Keep in mind that different-weight fiberglass cloths (from 3/4 to 3 oz.) work differently. The heavier the cloth, the more stubborn it may be to lay down properly—be patient. Whether it is a one-piece or a two-piece wing, pretend that it’s divided into four quadrants: top left, top right, bottom left, and bottom right. It doesn’t make a difference which section you start with. If you have detachable ailerons and flaps, remove them and do them separately. Now, let’s get down to business. Preparation Before you start the first panel, make sure that the whole wing has been finish-sanded with 220-grit sandpaper and then vacuumed clean. Do the other three panels in the same way. If your balsa wing has any dents in it, spray the dented area with a little water and gently rub it into the dent. Let the area dry out; the wood grain will lift slightly, causing the dent to vanish like magic! The general idea here is to have smooth, flat, ding-free surfaces over which to lay your fiberglass cloth. As far as fiberglass cloth goes, my basic guide to what weight to use is directly related to airplane size. For models with wingspans in the 80-inch range, you can use anything from 3/4- to 1 1/2-oz. cloth. Anything 100 inches and over, I use 2- to 3-oz. cloth. You get the idea. To find where to buy your glass cloth, check hobby shops or large distributors. You can also shop around your local boat/marine hardware stores for the cloth you need. Now, measure your wing panels and allow at least an inch of waste material all the way around. After cutting your first piece of cloth, lay it on top of the wing panel and rub your hand over it to make sure that there is nothing under it, as any speck of sanding dust will ruin the finish. The glass act For the first coat of resin, I add about 5 to 10 percent alcohol to the resin. This is not really recommended by the manufacturer because of the variances of alcohol used. But it helps the cloth lie down easier without pulling it out of shape while applying the resin. When you apply the second coat of resin, however, use it full strength. Mix the resin parts together completely, add the alcohol, and mix again until the alcohol is fully integrated. Lay the cloth down over the bare balsa, being sure that it lies down completely smooth. Pour a small line of the mixed resin down the center of the wing panel span-wise, and spread it out from the center to the leading or trailing edge—it doesn’t matter which—then do the rest. Keep a disposable drinking cup handy to squeegee off excess resin from your credit or playing card. Paper towels are nice to have around, too, as well as a 1-inch chip brush to brush down the edges and areas that you missed. Now, spend some time going over those areas; fixing it now makes life a lot easier later on.   By this time, your hands will feel as if you just handled a large ball of cotton candy—nice and sticky. Wipe yourself and any tools you wish to keep clean using a paper towel and some alcohol. Trust me—once you have completed the first panel, you will find the other three will go much faster. I usually do the top-left panel followed by the top-right panel and then let cure. I trim the edges with a no. 11 hobby blade and then lightly sand the edges all the way around. I flip the wing panels over and apply cloth to the other side. Don’t build up too much resin near any edges because, when it cures, you will just have more resin to sand off. After you’ve done all four panels and they’re all fully cured, revisit the first panel and very lightly sand and fix any little imperfections or dings that you might have picked up. If you have any wrinkles, bubbles, or brush hairs, now is the time to sand them away. If you must sand down so far through the cloth and resin that it leaves a bare spot, don’t worry. You can cut a small piece of cloth and put it down with the second coat of resin, or if it’s small enough (like the size of a quarter), just ignore it and put down the second coat of resin directly over the bare wood. Go over the other three panels and do the same thing. As for the wingtips, I simply trim close to the wing, apply resin, let cure, and then sand. If needed, I’ll add scrap cloth to cover any bare spots. Once you have all four panels done with two coats of resin and they are fully cured, you can use the sanding block to sand the wing smooth. You will notice that the second coat of resin has cured fairly shiny. This is because it just lies on top and does not absorb at all into the wood or the glass cloth. Use 100-grit sandpaper over the shiny surfaces to “break” the shine, then switch over to a finer-grit sandpaper, like 220, to finish-sand the whole panel. Remember that when you sand the cloth, be careful not to go through to bare wood. The difference now between a good wing surface and an outstanding one is how much time you spend sanding the wing. When you have the entire wing finished as mentioned above, you are just about done. For me, the next part is the final step. Find a well-ventilated area, and get some Rust-Oleum Automotive gray primer (an average rattle can will cover about 4 square feet) and lightly spray the wing panels. The primer will expose any flaws left in your fiberglass surfaces. Fill any pinholes or dings using a lacquer spot putty or Bondo, let dry, and sand and primer again. From here, there are many ways to finish the wing, but that’s another story. For strength, I always glass the wheel-well interiors.       Our current project is a giant-scale Grumman Hellcat. As you can see, the wing has been finished nicely with fiberglass cloth and resin and is ready to prime. The fuselage was finished earlier and already wears a coat or two of primer. The same basic technique is done for all control surfaces, as shown here. The parts are set aside until the resin cures, then the excess cloth is trimmed away and sanded smooth using sandpaper. Photos and Text by Denny DeWeese The post Fiberglassing Wings Made Easy appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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JShumate

JShumate

 

Fiberglassing Wings Made Easy

There are many ways to apply fiberglass cloth to a structure. The most common methods use either polyester or epoxy resin and catalysts. Some of the resins require unequal mix ...
Continue reading ... Join our premium membership! The post Fiberglassing Wings Made Easy appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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JShumate

JShumate

 

Vintage RC Scale Triplane

MAN editor Gerry Yarrish is what many would call a “Triplane Addict”. He’s built so many Fokker Dr.1s that he can’t even remember them all. From his most recent 1/3-scale giant, to several ARF electric versions and even a few rubber powered free flight Triplanes, Gerry must really love building wings. Here are a few photos of one of Gerry’s favorites, a 48-inch-span version built from the old VK Models kit. This one was powered by a Saito .56 4-stroke glow engine and it was outfitted with JR servos controlled with a JR 8301 radio. The model features an upgraded aluminum engine cowl from Arizona Model Aircrafters and spoked wheels from Proctor Enterprises. The static scale propeller is from Xoar.The covering is Scale Stits and the paint is PolyTone from F&M Enterprises. All of the aircraft markings were masked off and painted. Though the VK Triplane was not the greatest airplane to fly, (actually it was well behaved in the air, but the takeoff and landings were murder!), Gerry did manage to earn a 2nd place award in the WW I class at the 2002 WRAM show, in White Plains, NY. The post Vintage RC Scale Triplane appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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JShumate

JShumate

 

HobbyKing SkySword 70mm EDF Jet 990mm [VIDEO]

From HobbyKing:
You’ll slice through the sky with this brilliantly colored SkySword. The streamlined looks and elegant lines show that this plane is built for speed. It comes with a 70mm 12-blade EDF fan to provide that realistic jet sound. With the PNF version, all the hard work is done with the powerplant already fitted and ready to go. The tricycle retracting undercarriage and all servos are completely installed with easy connect plugs for installing the wings. All decals have been fitted. Just fit the top of the “T” tail and install a receiver and battery and you will be ready to fly in no time. The three bright LED lights make for easy orientation when coming in for a smooth landing. There is also working flaps to help with takeoffs and landings at the right speed. Extra air inlets for the battery hatch keeps the battery temperature down for maximizing flying time. The nose comes off for easier and safer transportation. The SkySword is a fantastic flyer with extreme performance and excellent agility to provide a graceful display in the air. Features: Extreme speed yet with excellent maneuverability High Efficient 12 blade EDF unit with realistic turbine-like sound Full electronic retractable landing gear with working oleo struts Big powerful flaps for slow landings Wing plugs for easy connection Easy to build bolt-together pieces Navigational lights for orientation Specs: Wingspan: 990mm
Length: 1300mm
Flying Weight: 1750g
Motor: 2842- 2800KV Brushless outrunner
ESC: 60A brushless
Servo: 9g x 8pcs
Ducted Fan: High-power and efficient 70mm 12 blade EDF unit Recommended: 1 x 2200 – 3000mAh 4S 45-65C and up Lipo Battery 6 Channel Radio Transmitter and Receiver #9306000352-0 – H-KING SKYSWORD YELLOW 70MM EDF JET 990MM (40″) (PNF) – $183.12
#9306000353-0 – H-KING SKYSWORD PINK 70MM EDF JET 990MM (40″) (PNF) – $183.12
#9306000368-0 – H-KING SKYSWORD YELLOW 70MM EDF JET 990MM (40″) (KIT) – $109.67
#9306000369-0 – H-KING SKYSWORD PINK 70MM EDF JET 990MM (40″) (KIT) – $109.67
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ICARE-ICARUS Electric Fuel Pump

From ICARE-ICARUS:
ICARE is pleased to introduce this helpful device: an electric fuelling pump. This is the improved V2 version of our popular Electric Fuel Pump which is specially designed and developed for model engine fuel use. Light weight, easy to use, hand held or attached to your fuel canister. Requires a 1-2 cells Lipo battery to operate. Optimal operation at 8.4V. It is suitable to use for lubricant mixed gasoline or kerosene and high rate mixed nitro fuel. Technical Data: Dimensions: D=27 x 70.5mm
Weight: 91g
Operational power source: DC4.2 – 8.4V
No load power consumption: 1.6 A
Flow rate: 1350cc/minute@6V, 1800cc/minute@8.4V (improved flow rate by 20% over V1)
Continuous operating time : 15minutes
Power connector: Futaba female
Usable fuel: Glow Fuel, Gasoline, kerosene We also offer a rechargeable pump, with following specs: This Rechargeable Electric Fuel Pump is specially designed and developed for model engine fuel use. Light weight, easy to use, hand held or attached to your fuel canister. It is suitable to use for lubricant mixed gasoline and high rate mixed nitro fuel. Technical Data: Dimensions: D=27 x 115mm
Weight: 146g
Battery: Li-ion 2000mAh
Flow rate: 1100cc/minute (improved flow rate by 20% over V1)
Battery duration: 15minutes
Charge voltage: DC5V (via USB port)
Charge current: 1.0A
Charge connector: USB Micro B
Accessory: USB charge cable
Usable fuel: Glow Fuel, Gasoline, Kerosene And there is also now a Refueling Bracket/tank cap for these pumps to be attached to a canister: This is the cap and bracket kit to hold our Electric Fuel Pump against a fueling canister. Includes all parts to make the hole into your canister and attach safely an anodized aluminum cap to it. Bracket to hold pump and fueling fitting included. Kit content: Hole saw to cut hole in canister Aluminum machined and anodized cap Tools to install cap. Bracket to hold pump Fueling fitting O’ring seals. Electric Fuel Pump, price: $59.00
Rechargeable Electric Fuel Pump, price: $69.00
Refueling Bracket/Tank Cap for Electric Fuel Pump, price: $44.50
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ICARE-ICARUS L23 Super Blanik (3.0m)

From ICARE-ICARUS:
ICARE is pleased to introduce this nice scale glider for the discerning modeller. We are pleased to offer a scale model of this popular sailplane. With a span of 3.0 meters, it is large enough to aerotow, while remaining agile enough for use on the slope or winch. Currently one of the nicest after war vintage glider that we carry, this model is a very accurate reproduction at 1:6 scale and comes in the white classic paint scheme. It comes ready for radio gear installation. Ailerons, rudder, elevator and airbrake will control the plane. Fixed wheel is to be installed and help landing. Canopy tray comes to outfit canopy area to match full size interior and canopy with frame. The flying behaviour is tender and very smooth, easy to thermal, and responsive for slope flying as well. The kit is almost completely finished. The wings are sheeted foam wing covered with Oracover of the best quality and the ailerons are hinged and airbrakes installed. Rudder and elevator are fiberglass/epoxy hollow moulded. The clear plastic canopy and moulded frame will allow scale outfit, wing joiner system is installed in the fuselage and a steel rod is supplied as a wing joiner. All what’s required is your radio gear. You will need 6 micro servos and a standard 6 channel receiver. An extensive set of Vinyl decals and hardware package is completing the kit. Super Blanik L 23, also available with FES installed (electric motor in the nose) Specs: Scale: 1:6
Wing Span: 3.0 m (1189″)
Length: 1.44 m (57″)
Wing Area: 65 dm2 (1007 sq. in.)
Wing Airfoil: HQ 3/15
Wing Loading: 46 g/dm2 (15 oz/sq. ft.)
Flying Weight: 3.0 kg (105 oz)
Radio: Standard radio.
Sub-micro servos for the wings. $599.00 Visit ICARE-ICARUS.com
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ICARE-ICARUS Sailfish F3K 924 Kit

From ICARE-ICARUS:
ICARE is pleased to introduce this updated version of this micro dlg kit. This is a high performance micro DLG in the sub 1m (3ft) wingspan. It keeps the excellent flight characteristics of full sized (60″) models in F3K class. This kit is latest update and features even more improve build help, like a cnc milled fiberglass main spar, that interlocks with the ribs. Wing area has slightly increased and front is now sheeted. Wing loading is still same, keeping the same great flying characteristics. Check out some video clips below, to see how we succeeded in our task. Sailfish F3K 924 is suitable for intermediate and beginners wanting to give a try in the F3K class category. I features great flight characteristics and sturdy design. We would like to bring up the fact that our model withstands crashes better than comparable full carbon fiber construction plane. Our main goal was to create a compact and easy to handle 2CH model with a simple assembly. Easy to carry around as it fits easily assembled in your car trunk. Only built from premium quality material and state of the art manufacturing process, interlocking parts for ease of assembly. Fuselage has milled slots to receive tail feather for worry free assembly, A precise wing jig provides fast and easy assembly of the wing without the needs of pins. A perfect design that is easy to assemble and results in a high performance glider. Average build time for the kit is around 7 hours depending on builders skills. Kit content: Precision cut aircraft grade ply and balsa and carbon parts fiberglass/carbon pod and boom fuselage All needed hardware and control linkages Assembly jigs for wing all needed glue to be used during assembly process all needed iron on covering material Required: (2) sub-micro servos in the 4g category, a Rx weighting 5-7g or less, a 1S 300mAh LiPo Option : The Sailfish f3k 900 is also available as a receiver ready dlg Specs: Wing Span: 900 mm (35.4″)
Length: 680 mm (25.8″)
Wing Area: 11 dm2 (170 sq. in.)
Wing Airfoil: special
Wing Loading: 11.4 g/dm2 (3.7 oz/sq. ft.)
Flying Weight: 135 g (4.7 oz)
Radio: Sub-micro servos and micro receiver $129.00
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E-flite Night Radian FT 2.0m PNP & BNF Basic [VIDEO]

From E-flite:
E-flite® Radian® motor gliders are legendary because they capture the essence of pure and modern soaring styles in aircraft that are as much fun to sport fly as they are to soar. Inspired and approved by the Flite Test (FT) crew, the Night Radian FT improves the popular 2-meter version with multiple upgrades including a programmable LED light system that allows you to fly all day and night. The horizontal tail is now fully-molded. Plus, the BNF® Basic version features AS3X® technology to deliver smoother flight performance in windy and high lift conditions while optional-use SAFE® Select technology makes this Radian airplane even easier to fly than it already is. The E-flite® Night Radian® FT 2.0m motor glider combines the serenity of soaring with sport flying and incredible night flying capabilities. Factory-installed, high-visibly LED lights are recessed throughout the airframe, including in the redesigned airfoil-shaped horizontal tail. The vivid colors and placement of the LEDs offer incredible visibility and easy orientation when flying at dusk and even in complete darkness—or they can be turned off when flying in daylight. Even more impressive is that the LEDs can be programmed to display 100+ different color, sequence and timing combinations by utilizing the built-in controller. Multiple Night Radians flying together in the dark can be easily distinct. Best of all, even with the addition of lights, the durable, composite reinforced EPO construction has been kept as light as possible so there’s no discernable difference in flight performance or thermal soaring capability. The distinctive and gracefully curved polyhedral wing and efficient airfoil deliver outstanding soaring performance and long flight times with or without the use of power. And, there’s no Hi-start or cumbersome launch system to worry about. The high-power brushless motor and folding prop combination provide outstanding efficiency so you can enjoy soaring and sport flying in the same flight, plus the ability to climb and find thermals multiple times between battery changes. Key Features: Flite Test crew approved including their exclusive trim scheme design Integrated high-visibility LED lights feature 100+ color, sequence and timing combinations Fully-molded horizontal tail for improved durability, performance and LED integration Transparent canopy hatch is magnetic to offer easy battery compartment access Bolt-on, two-piece wing with carbon-fiber wing joiner rigidity 30A ESC plus a high-power brushless motor with folding prop Lightweight and durable composite reinforced EPO construction No glue required for assembly–can be ready to fly in less time than it takes to charge a battery BNF Version also features: Spektrum 6-channel receiver with industry-leading DSMX® technology AS3X® technology for smoother flight performance in windy and high lift conditions Optional-use SAFE® Select technology makes it even easier to fly than ever before Integrated LED Lighting: Embedded into the airframe is a factory-installed LED light system that practically provides even better orientation than when flying in daylight. Multi-colored light strings operate through a built-in controller that offers 100+ different color, sequence and timing combinations, and are conveniently powered by a 3S 1350-2200mAh flight battery. You can even use the onboard switch to turn them off when flying in daylight. Flite Test Approved: The original Radian® 2-meter motor glider was already popular in the Flite Test community, so E-flite and the Flite Test crew partnered together on the Night Radian FT to finalize its unique capabilities and appearance–including the exclusive, Flight Test-designed trim scheme. The result is a more versatile aircraft that almost any RC pilot can appreciate and enjoy flying. Lightweight & Tough: The redesigned horizontal stabilizer is fully-molded to feature an airfoil shaped cross-section and integrated LED lighting. Construction with composite reinforced, molded EPO material delivers a lightweight yet durable airframe that delivers a unique airplane that’s easy to maintain and offers the best flight experience possible.
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E-flite Mini Convergence VTOL 410mm BNF Basic & PNP [VIDEO]

From E-flite:
VTOL (Vertical Takeoff and Landing) RC models are usually a mixed bag when it comes to performance. If they are stable, their speed and agility is often lackluster. If they are nimble, pilots have to work harder to transition between multirotor and airplane flight. The E-flite® Convergence® VTOL aircraft change all that. Their unique designs and exclusive flight control software give you the best of both agility and stability while making the transition between multirotor and airplane flight so simple and predictable that you will feel comfortable and confident even on your first flight. The E-flite® Mini Convergence® VTOL is a more compact version of its larger counterpart that you can fly in more places and smaller spaces—including indoors. Its smaller size, quiet brushless motors and refined flight control software makes it less intimidating and easier to fly in multirotor mode indoors, plus it’s easier than ever to transition between multirotor and airplane flight outdoors. The Mini Convergence uses a simple and sleek delta-wing design with three brushless motors—two rotating motors on the wing and a fixed-position motor in the tail. In multirotor flight, the wing-mounted motors rotate up into the vertical position to provide lift and flight control along with the motor in the tail. In airplane flight, the wing-mounted motors rotate forward into the horizontal position and the model’s elevons take over pitch and bank/roll control. You also get impressive yaw control in airplane flight with differential thrust from the motors. Sleek and Simple Unlike more complex VTOL aircraft that rotate the entire wing and require as many as four motors to achieve vertical and forward flight, the Mini Convergence uses a simple and sleek delta-wing design with three brushless motors—two rotating motors on the wing and a fixed-position motor in the tail. In multirotor flight, the wing-mounted motors rotate up into the vertical position to provide lift and flight control along with the motor in the tail. In airplane flight, the wing-mounted motors rotate forward into the horizontal position and the model’s elevons take over pitch and bank/roll control. Yaw control in airplane flight is provided by differential thrust from the wing-mounted motors. Exclusive Flight Control Software Makes it Easy At the heart of it all is updated and refined flight control software that has been expertly tuned by our engineers. The end result is more consistent and reliable flight performance that makes it even easier for almost any RC pilot to experience the fun of VTOL flight. Automated Transition Making the transition between multirotor and airplane flight is as simple as flipping a switch. The flight controller will smoothly rotate the two wing-mounted motors into the correct positions and activate the rear motor as needed. Two Flight Modes Easy-to-use Stability and Acro flight modes deliver a wide range of performance. Stability Mode In multirotor flight, Stability Mode will limit pitch and bank angles and work to keep the aircraft level when you release the sticks. This allows you to take off and land like a pro, even if you’ve never flown a multirotor aircraft before. In airplane flight, Stability Mode will limit pitch and bank angles and automatically return the aircraft to level when the sticks are released for the easiest RC VTOL experience you will find anywhere. Acro Mode In Acro Mode there are no angle limits or self-leveling in any phase of flight. During multirotor flight, the Mini Convergence will handle like a conventional multirotor aircraft that pitches and banks in whatever direction you want it to fly. It can even flip and roll like other multirotor aircraft. In airplane flight, Acro Mode lets you perform a wide range of aerobatic maneuvers including loops, rolls and more. Super-Simple Setup This Bind-N-Fly® Basic version can be flown with any full-range, 6+ channel Spektrum DSMX® compatible aircraft transmitter and comes equipped with a Spektrum serial receiver that is factory-installed and connected to the flight controller. No complex transmitter setup or programming is required. Your “GEAR” switch is used for selecting Stability or Acro Mode and your “AUX 1” switch is used to transition between multirotor and airplane flight. Customize Your Trim Scheme The included decals give you multiple trim scheme themes to choose—from classic to sporty and even military inspired. Or you can easily personalize your trim scheme by using a combination of decals, paint or both. FPV (First-Person View) Ready For an FPV flying experience like no other, the Mini Convergence is set up to accommodate the recommended FPV camera and VTX (Video Transmitter) Features: Multirotor versatility and sport plane agility Takes off and lands vertically in small areas Compact size so it can be flown in more places and smaller spaces, including indoors Exclusive and refined flight control system makes it incredibly easy to fly Automatic transition between multirotor and airplane flight Stability and Acro modes provide a wide range of flight performance Super-simple transmitter setup—no complex programming required Spektrum serial receiver with industry-leading DSMX® technology (EFL9350 only) Powerful brushless motors compatible with 3S 800mAh batteries Outstanding speed, climb and aerobatic performance Included decals offer multiple trim scheme options Lightweight and extremely durable EPO airframe FPV-ready (recommended camera and video transmitter sold separately) Needed to Complete: Full Range 6+ Channel DSMX Transmitter 800mAh 3S LiPo flight battery Compatible LiPo charger Serial Receiver with Diversity (EFL9375 only) What’s in the box? (1) Mini Convergence VTOL BNF Basic
(1) Spektrum DSMX Serial Receiver with Diversity (EFL9350 only)
(3) 6A Brushless ESCs
(2) Sub-Micro, (2) Micro Servos
(3) Brushless Outrunners
(1) User Manual #EFL9350 – Mini Convergence VTOL BNF Basic, 410mm – $199.99
#EFL9375 – Mini Convergence VTOL PNP, 410mm – $179.99
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National Model Aviation Day – August 11, 2018

So, will you be flying this weekend?   Join the Academy of Model Aeronautics Foundation in celebrating model aviation for the sixth annual National Model Aviation Day, August 11, 2018. National Model Aviation Day was created to encourage clubs to celebrate the hobby and share it with the public. AMA chartered clubs have also been asked to conduct a fundraiser to provide assistance to a worthy cause. The AMA is devoted to inspiring the young and young-at-heart to pursue a hobby that will inspire creativity and advanced learning through the use of hands-on applications.   The purposes of the Foundation is be to fund raise and make grants to AMA to support its charitable and educational programs and services. The gang from the Central CT RC Club, Farmington, CT are active participant in the Model Aviation Day celebration! Why celebrate #ModelAviationDay? This is our hobby’s national holiday! One day a year when all AMA members should go out to fly and celebrate model flying. It’s so easy to participate. All you have to do is sign up on the National Model Aviation Day website, www.nationalmodelaviationday.org. This year’s charity is the AMA Foundation. As a supporter of AMA’s benevolent programs, your organization will help the AMA to inspire youth to get active in model flying, provide scholarships to students, award grants to clubs seeking assistance, and help support the national flying site at the International Aeromodeling Center in Muncie, Indiana. Each registered club receives stickers, is listed on the national event map. National Model Aviation Day is a great opportunity for clubs to promote their groups with local and state governments by requesting a city, county, or state proclamation. We are all in this together! Model flying is our sport, hobby, and something we want to continue for years. This day receives a lot of positive publicity and shows the media and the public how great model flying is. The post National Model Aviation Day – August 11, 2018 appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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Indoor 8-foot-span A-10

You wouldn’t think an 8-foot-span aircraft could easily navigate an indoor flying venue, but pilot Daniel Hör makes it look easy with this A-10 Thunderbolt II! Powered by two Electro Accu ducted fans using a 4S 1200mAh LiPo pack, the Depron foam plane uses 12 servos and is equipped with an onboard camera. At 1:30 into the video, the big jet slows down to an unbelievably slow pace! Thanks to RC Media World for taking this video at the Modell-Hobby-Spiel in Leipzig, Germany. The post Indoor 8-foot-span A-10 appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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New for Premium Members —

Fly the Inverted Circle — Always a showstopper Flying an aerobatic aircraft inverted can be challenging. Typically, this is because you need to push on the elevator stick to apply down-elevator to maintain altitude, which may seem odd at first. Depending on the bank angle that is established at the start of the maneuver, rudder input is also needed to maintain altitude as higher bank angles require larger amounts of rudder. Like all things in life, though, these control inputs will become second nature with proper practice techniques. To read more of this article and other exclusive “Members Only” online content, Click Here and subscribe to the Model Airplane News Premium Site. The post New for Premium Members — appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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10 Biggest RC Planes in the World

When it comes to flying the really big stuff, our RC flying buddies across the pond in the UK have it in spades. From half-scale Fokker triplanes, and a Howard Hughes Racer, and even Russian Space Shuttle and it airborne launch vehicle this video has lots of great footage to satisfy anyone afflicted with the RC giant scale bug. Video courtesy of Viral Maniacs The post 10 Biggest RC Planes in the World appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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DIY Wood Model Stand

While some RC’ers like to use PVC pipe and fittings to make stands to transport their planes, I prefer to use my carpentry skills to make them out of wood. I have made several of these stands out of thin plywood and yellow pine boards and they hold up very well. I suppose the PVC stands hold up well, too, but we all have our preferences. One of the benefits of these stands is that they are light weight – usually around 5 to 7 pounds, which is pretty light considering they will carry a 25 to 35 pound plane. And an important thought, resist the impulse to “overbuild” as this only adds weight, may increase cost, and is usually not necessary. To start the project, you need to get a rough idea of what it will look like and then make a drawing with the dimensions you will be cutting to. Once that is established, begin laying out your end panels made out of 1/4 inch plywood. Now, this is not the aircraft grade RC plywood as it would be astronomically expensive and wasteful, but the usual finish-grade plywood (birch or luan mahogany) like you would find at Lowe’s or Home Depot. Usually costs about $15 a sheet. Half sheets can be found at the home centers as well if you don’t want to buy a whole sheet. Depending on what your dimensions are, you may be able to get by with just a half sheet. For my stand, I decided on a width and height of 20 inches for the upright end panels with a radius of 8 inches for the cradle. Also, very important are hand holds in each of the uprights. These are made with a 2 inch diameter hole saw. Overall length of this stand is 32 inches which is about as wide as is comfortable for one person to lift using the hand holds. With a base width of about 22 inches, the stand rides very stable. But, keep the height of the stand as low as possible to make the center of gravity low to help prevent tipping. I usually carry my planes in the inverted attitude to keep the CG low as possible.   End panels or uprights are laid out, cut, and stood next to the previous stand I made several years ago. They are a bit wider this time for a warbird with a larger cowl than fits in the old stand. Once you have the end panels completed, you need to rip some 1x2s out of your yellow pine board with the table saw (yellow pine is usually the least expensive lumber, but use nicer wood if you don’t mind the expense. The 1x6x8 foot board I used only cost $3.59). These boards make the base/bottom of the stand and are only 2 inches wide to keep the weight down. Begin the base by cutting the cross boards for the end panels and glue/nail/screw them together. I prefer to use my pneumatic brad gun and yellow wood glue. Make sure the base boards are clamped tight before you join them to the end panels as you want them to sit flat on the floor, even with the plywood. Do both end panels and then cut the long base boards and glue/nail/screw them to the end panel base-boards. To make it easy to get them square use the corner of your work table and secure them with clamps as you go. Assuming you built your work table ends square, you will be good to go here. Corner braces made from scrap keep the base boards together nicely and add little extra weight. And for the last components, make some 45 degree diagonal braces to hold the end panels upright. When using yellow pine, I recommend pre-drilling all holes if drywall screws are used to prevent splitting. And of course, buy a NEW bottle of quality Yellow Carpenter’s Wood Glue! Base boards glued/nailed/screwed to the end panels and to the long base boards. Corner of work table provides a square work pattern.   Once you have the base boards attached, use a long glue clamp to add lots of pressure to the joint. Keep the clamps on as long as required to make sure the joint is tight. 45 degree blocks (scrap lumber) are added to the corners to add strength to the base. Again, glue/nail/screw the blocks to the base board at all corners. A cross piece is added to the center to eliminate a bow.   Before adding the diagonal supports for the end panels, clamp your combination-square to the base board and end panel so you can make an accurate measurement for the length of the diagonal brace.   Cutting to the chase a bit, all four corners have been supported with diagonal braces at a 45 degree angle. This is a simple process of taking a measurement between the end panel and center of the base board on each side and cutting the braces. These braces are 3/4 inch by 1 inch and about 21 inches long. A bit of additional support for the diagonals at the end panels has been added under each one and glued/nailed/screwed. As a note, I use 45 degrees for the diagonal end cuts since that is an easy mark to determine and cut; also a 45-degree platform is on all combination-squares and builders have a 45-degree triangle in their tool collections. Figuring/cutting oddball angles is hard to do and very time consuming – no need for that here as the stand is not a piece of furniture or work of art! For this stand, and after completion as an afterthought, I added a “scab” brace on each diagonal support made from 1/8” Aircraft plywood I found in the scrap box. Glued and nailed. Almost finished! To finish it off, I added some pipe insulation to the end panels. One smaller layer inside a larger layer. A water-weenie for the pool works well for this too. I needed a subject in the photo to show the stand’s capability and drug out my Meister Zero, work-in-progress. Although not made specifically for the Zero, it would work if need be. The Zero really needs a longer stand. Inverted carry is usually the best approach. I usually add a coat of gloss Polyurethane for a bit of moisture protection, especially on the very bottom side, but this is an optional step. TEXT & PHOTOS BY LANE CRABTREE The post DIY Wood Model Stand appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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Solar-Powered Flight Record

A solar-powered drone to be used by the British military has set a new flight record, its developer Airbus said. The Zephyr S broke the endurance record for an un-refuelled aircraft at 1.53pm (GMT) on Wednesday afternoon, surpassing the 14 days, 22 minutes and 8 seconds set by an older model in 2010. The plane, which weighs around as much as an average human, cruises in the stratosphere at around 70,000 ft, and runs on solar power during the day and solar-charged batteries at night. It can be used for a range of purposes from monitoring environmental disasters to satellite communications and assisting border patrol missions. Described by Airbus as a High Altitude Pseudo-Satellite, a cross between a satellite and a drone, it has a wingspan of 25 metres and weighs around 75 kilograms. The Ministry of Defence has ordered three, an Airbus spokesman said. It has been in the air since setting off on its maiden flight from Arizona, in the US, on July 11. The post Solar-Powered Flight Record appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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Microaces Sopwith Camel Kit [VIDEO]

From Microaces:
Microaces love of aviation history ensures that the aircraft we reproduce as kits look fantastic on static display as well as in the air. The Microaces Sopwith Camel replicates one of the most iconic aircraft of the WWI era to a level that sets a new bar for micro scale RC. The livery of this kit is that of D8118, flown by Ace Pilot Major John Ingis Gilmour, the highest scoring Scotsman of WWI. Included in this multi-media model is a vac-formed cowl, free spinning 3D printed fuel pump prop and rigging part PLUS a spinning dummy rotary engine kit. All these extras add an incredible level of mechanical and visual detail to this astounding model. Devil in the Detail There is also an additional Detail Pack available for this model. The Pack contains 3D printed 50lb Cooper bombs plus ply and laser cut plastic parts that assemble to replicate the bomb rack, creating an extra-ordinary level of detail never seen in an RC kit of this scale before. When ordering, select the Kit with detail pack to include it in your order! NOTE: The dummy motor requires an elongated prop shaft for your PKZ3624 motor/gearbox or use a ‘rotary ready’ Microaces Motor/Gearbox. Electronics Requirements This kit was designed around the Microaces AIO Aero Flight Pack with long prop shaft motor. Or can be controlled with the Parkzone PKZ3352 receiver. Got the Kit….now wear the T-shirt! Local artist Wayne Savage has created a ‘Vintage Comic Book’ style illustration to mark the launch of the Microaces Sopwith Camel kit. We’ve printed this onto the back of a high quality garment with the new Microaces logo on the front so you can fly the aircraft AND wear the T-Shirt. Specification: Airframe: Scale
Controls: Rudder, Elevator, Throttle
Length: 240mm / 9.4″
Wingspan: 360mm / 14.2″
Wing Area: 4.1 sq dm / 63 sq in.
Flying Weight.: 36 – 38g/1.2 – 1.3oz
Wing Load: ~9.0 g/sq.dm / 2.9 oz/sq.ft.
Recommended Receiver: Parkzone PKZ3351, PKZ3352 or PKZUA1151 | Microaces AIO 5 Channel Receiver
Rec. Motor / G.Box: Microaces Motor Gearbox with LONG prop shaft OR Parkzone PKZ3624 with EFLU3004 extended prop shaft
Rec. Battery: 130-160mAh 1S Lipo
Rec. Prop: GWS 4530
Skill Level – Build: Intermediate
Skill Level – Pilot: Intermediate
Tools required: Scalpel, 180 Grit sandpaper or stick, straight edge, tweezers
Rec. Adhesive: UHU por / Foam safe CA / Aliphatic glue #D8118 – $£47.00
Visit Microaces.MyShopify.com
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Blade Ozone RTF & BNF Basic Quadcopter [VIDEO]

From Blade:
Achieve first-flight success with the Blade® Ozone RTF. The Ozone brings an intimidation-free and easy experience for new pilots looking for a multirotor trainer. Innovative SAFE® Technology gives pilots a confidence-inspiring flight experience, even if they have never flown before. From the lightweight and strong carbon fiber and impact-resistant frame to the easy repairs, this quadcopter makes learning to fly easy. LEDs adorn each arm making orientation easy to maintain. A removable 1S LiPo battery drives efficient and light brushed motors for long flight times. This RTF package comes with everything you need, including the flight battery, USB charger, and Spektrum 2.4GHz transmitter. Brushed Motors Efficient brushed motors contribute to long flight times while maintaining a light profile. Easy Maintenance Simple construction and low part count make maintaining the Ozone stress-free. Easy-to-replace arms, propellers, and motors help get you back in the air quickly should you need any repairs. Replaceable LiPo battery The widely available 1S battery is replaceable, so you have minimal downtime before your next flight. Indoor/Outdoor The size of the Ozone allows it to be flown both indoors and out. Bind-N-Fly® Basic (BLH9750) BNF convenience means no more extra transmitters. Just bind your DSM2®/DSMX® transmitter to your aircraft and you’re ready to fly. Ready-To-Fly (BLH9700) The RTF version comes with everything you need in one box. Simply charge the included flight battery, bind to the included transmitter, and your taking to the skies. Needed to Complete: BLH9700 Nothing! Everything you need is included in the box. BLH9750 Multifunction 6+ channel transmitter with Spektrum DSMX® 2.4GHz technology 1S 500mAh Lipo Battery Suitable Charger What’s in the box? (1) Ozone RTF with SAFE Technology
(1) Spektrum 2.4GHz transmitter (BLH9700 only)
(1) 1S 500mAh Flight Battery (BLH9700 only)
(1) USB Charger (BLH9700 only)
(1) User Manual Specs: Approximate Assembly Time: No assembly required
Approximate Flight Time: 3-5 minutes
Battery: 1s 500mAh
Canopy/Body Material: Plastic
Channels: 4
Completion Level: Ready-to-Fly
Flying Weight: 75g
Height: 56mm
Length: 172mm
Main Blade Material: Plastic
Main Frame Material: Plastic
Main Motor Type: Brushed
Main Rotor Diameter: 65mm
Type: Multi-Rotor
Width: 172mm #BLH9700 – Ozone RTF with SAFE Technology – $99.99
#BLH9750 – Ozone BNF Basic with SAFE Technology – $69.99
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Dromida Ocular 120 RTF 120mm FPV Drone [VIDEO]

From Dromida:
Go with the flow – the Optical Flow – with the Ocular FPV! Optical Flow technology and Altitude Hold give you confidence-boosting stability for flying and hovering without GPS. True-Stick Control matches the drone’s movements to the direction you move the sticks. Low-latency Wi-Fi lets you shoot fast-moving flights with top-notch results. All you need is your smartphone* and the Dromida FPV app. Get your First Person View skills into focus. Fly the Ocular FPV. Features: Optical Flow technology – Provides first-class stability. Altitude Hold – Keeps the Ocular at your set altitude. True-Stick Control – Moves the Ocular in the same direction that you move the sticks. Auto Take-off and Land – Push to hover up to 1.5 meters. Push it again to land! Wi-Fi FPV camera – Fly FPV with 30 fps video and 2 ms low-latency Wi-Fi. Dromida FPV mobile app – Download the Dromida FPV mobile app to complete the FPV experience. Long flight times – Spend more time in the air. Includes: Assembled Ocular drone MR110 2.4GHz transmitter with built-in phone holder Wi-Fi FPV video/still camera 1S LiPo battery and USB charger (4) AAA batteries (4) Extra blades Screwdriver Specifications: Diagonal Length: 120 mm (4.7 in)
Weight: 74 g (2.6 oz)
Requires: Devices for Android or Apple, app (download free from Google Play Store or App Store) Camera Specifications: Pixels: 300,000
Frame Rate: 30 fps
Video Format: VGA
Power: 300mW
Dimensions: 0.31 x 0.31 x 0.23 in (8 x 8 x 6 mm)
Angle: 65°
Visit Dromida.com
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JShumate

JShumate

 

New For Premium Members — E-Flite P-51D Mustang 1.2m Review Videos

If you are looking for a great new warbird to add to your RC squadron, the new 1.2 meter (48 inch span), Bind-n-Fly P-51D Mustang from E-Flight is just what you’re looking for.With plenty of scale detail, this easy to assemble warbird takes only minutes to put together. Molded of rugged EPO foam, the Mustang comes with functional flaps and features factory installed electric retractable landing gear. All you need to add is your own DSXM compatible transmitter and a 3S 2200mAh LiPo flight battery pack. Watch for a complete review in the upcoming November issue of MAN. We just posted two test flight and review videos for this awesome warbird and if you would like to see them and other “members only” exclusive content, Click Here to subscribe to the Model Airplane News Premium site. The post New For Premium Members — E-Flite P-51D Mustang 1.2m Review Videos appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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JShumate

 

Pro Tips for First Flight Success

Learning to fly is always easier and more fun with the aid of an experienced instructor. He will help you avoid those first few beginner mistakes and will help your airplane live a lot longer. The Sportsman S+ RTF with SAFE Technology from Hobby Zone is one of the new generation trainer/sport fliers that comes with onboard stabilization. It makes learning to fly very easy. For the first-time RC modeler, today is a great time for getting started in the hobby. The newest generation of easy-to-assemble, almost-ready-to-fly planes come in a wide variety of types and sizes. From electric-powered park fliers and microscale designs to your basic engine-powered, nitro-burning sport and trainer planes, the amount of work on the bench is minimal. Compared to the good old days, our newest RC planes aren’t very labor-intensive to assemble. Many even come out of the box completely ready to fly without any assembly required. “Plug and play” is a big part the hobby today, and it very easy to be successful. Really, the hardest part is deciding which model plane and radio system you want. Whether it has an electric power system or has an engine bolted to the firewall, once you decide on the airplane you like, you’ll need a flight plan to earn your RC wings. Let’s take a look at some of the basic techniques that you’ll need to know to be a successful RC pilot. GETTING STARTED If you are the social type who enjoys talking about RC planes as much as learning how to fly them, joining a local club is the way to go. Meeting monthly affords you the opportunity to get together with other like-minded RC addicts; it’s a lot like group therapy for the aviation minded. Clubs usually have a permanent flying field, and membership costs are relatively inexpensive compared to all the benefits you receive. Being a club member, you’ll quickly find out where local instructors hang out. The hobby is a great way to make new friends and to find useful hobby resources. Reading Model Airplane News is also a great way to start. RADIO GEAR One of the first tricks to learn deals with control reversal. When the airplane is headed toward you instead of flying away, left and right turns feel reversed. To level your wings, simply move the control stick toward the lower wingtip. This will keep you flying straight and level. For the beginner, it’s best to start with a RTF (ready-to-fly) airplane that comes in a complete package, which includes everything you’ll need to fly your plane, including the radio. This way, there are no decisions to make and you know everything will work the way it is suppose to. For the modeler who is looking to stay in the hobby for the long haul, the purchase of a radio system is a good investment. A standard full-house aileron-equipped plane requires four channels to operate. The basic controls are the throttle, rudder, elevator, and the ailerons. Once past the basics, you’ll want to think about adding more functions, such as flaps and possibly retractable landing gear, so a 6-channel radio system gives you flexibility for future development. Programmable computer radios are very popular because of the amount of adjustments and control mixing that you can do with the various channels. The basic features include dual rates and exponential, servo reversing, servo-travel adjustment, and basic mixing. Computer radios today are very affordable, so consider them a good investment for your future needs. Also, most radios systems come without servos; when you buy your radio, purchase separately the size, number, and type of servo that you’ll need for your particular model. GROUND SCHOOL Yes, a lot can be learned with the use of a good flight-simulator program, but nothing speeds your progress more than some quality time one-on-one with an instructor. Having someone help you avoid those first few common mistakes will not only speed your flight training but also help prevent you from having to buy two (or possibly three) replacement trainer planes before you solo. During those first few flights, a training plan can be developed, with each of your flights having a specific goal. Building on what you’ve learned from previous flights allows you to move on after you master the basics. Learn to taxi around first, then after you and your instructor are comfortable with you controlling your plane on the ground, you can move on to the takeoff, straight and level flight, turning left and right, and flying at slow airspeeds. While on the ground, you’ll learn how to steer with the rudder and how to work the throttle smoothly. After you get the hang of it, you can start flying at low altitudes so that you can get used to flying in the traffic pattern. Then, you’ll begin working on your first few landing approaches. Throughout the process, remember that this is all about having fun! If you begin to feel stress, tell your instructor and let him take over. You have to take a lot of little steps before you can run. A good tip is to always be aware of the wind direction and how it affects your airplane. Buddy System Modern buddy-box training systems have cut the cable between the two transmitters and are now wireless. By far, the best way to learn how to fly is with a system called a buddy box. A buddy box uses a cable connected between the instructor’s transmitter and that of the student, but newer radios do the same thing wirelessly. The buddy box allows the instructor to take control of your airplane simply by releasing a spring-loaded switch. Should you get into trouble, your instructor can quickly correct the plane and give control back to you. Available from many radio manufacturers, buddy-box training systems are often available from RC airplane clubs. Until you are signed off for solo RC flight, the instructor will control the model during takeoff and then will fly it up to a safe altitude before transferring flight control to your radio. Compared to using a single radio (where an instructor has to take the radio from the student’s hands to regain control), the buddy-box system is much easier and safer. This is a typical RC airplane training traffic pattern. Always take off and land into the wind, and use throttle to control your climb and descent rates. It is always best to train when the wind is calm or at least straight down the runway. This way, the plane will go where you point it. To fly a straight path when there is a crosswind, you need to crab the airplane (using rudder) so that it faces slightly into the wind. The stronger the wind, the more you have to angle the the plane’s nose into the wind. Practicing this will quickly increase your piloting skills. Remember to keep the wings level. FIRST FLIGHT As you gain experience and start to anticipate your model’s needed corrections, the instructor will give you more and more stick time until you’re ready to solo. There’s nothing more exciting that to hear your instructor say, “Go ahead. Take ‘er off this time!” Takeoffs are actually quite easy. Most trainers and beginner sport planes are designed to be stable, and when you fully advance the throttle, they will want to climb almost by themselves. Concentrate on maintaining a straight path, and apply throttle slowly. If the plane veers off course, correct with a touch of rudder (a little right is usually needed to keep going straight down the runway). As the model gets light on the wheels, pull back a little on the elevator stick; the model’s nose will come up, and the plane will become airborne. Keep the wings level with small aileron inputs, and let the model climb out at a shallow angle. Don’t let the model jump off the ground at a steep angle. Don’t panic—just ease off the elevator stick, and if necessary, apply a little down (push the stick forward slightly) to keep the model at a steady climb angle. Your instructor will teach you to fly the traffic pattern, and as you improve, he will have you fly at low altitudes until he’s comfortable with your command of the plane. Without you actually knowing what’s going to happen, a good instructor will talk you through the landing pattern and get you lined up for your first attempts. He will remind you to control the airspeed with your elevator (model nose high or low) and adjust your descent rate with the throttle. Once you nail that very first landing, it will be only a matter of time before you solo and can fly unassisted. BOTTOM LINE
Like anything else, to get really good at flying, you’ll need to practice and stay with it. It is an investment of time and effort. In the end, however, the satisfaction you’ll feel when you take off and land by yourself will be well worth the effort. You’ll be a properly trained RC pilot with the entire hobby to enjoy. Whether you want to fly warbirds, racers, or aerobatic airplanes, it all requires training and mastering the skills needed to be successful. The post Pro Tips for First Flight Success appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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JShumate

JShumate

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