Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Last week
  2. Scheduled to be in the upcoming September issue of MAN, we just posted on our Premium members website and complete downloadable article covering all of the amazing super scale action from this year’s Top Gun Scale Invitational. To see and download this sneak peak, and much more exclusive content Click Here to subscribe to our Premium Members Only website. The post New for Preminum Members — Exclusive Top Gun Sneak Peak appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  3. From HobbyKing: Exceed 100mph with the ultra-fast Sidewinder. Designed for fast FPV flight, the aircraft arrives fully-built with pre-installed electronics and navigational lights. Choose between multiple colored decals, including red, yellow, green and silver. Each of these colors has a matching tail light to help personalize your wing. The aircraft features separate compartments for the motor and ESC to help reduce electronic interference. Made of EPO foam, the one-piece construction and full-length carbon rods inside the wing provide a fast stable platform. The Durafly Sidewinder has been designed with an in-built dummy antenna to balance out the aircraft once your working antenna is attached. The sidewinder includes differently sized landing skids which can be swapped out depending on the landing terrain. The Sidewinder is a real speed machine for those willing to chase the thrill. Features: Fast racing-wing aircraft Designed for FPV Choose between multiple coloured decals and tail lights Separate motor and ESC compartments for no electronic interference Full length carbon rods through the wing for stability One-piece EPO foam construction for strength In-built dummy antenna to balance out the aircraft Navigational lights Specs: Wingspan: 1100mm (43.3″) Length: 480mm Weight: 580g (without battery and FPV equipment) Requires: ESC: Aerostar 50A Motor: Aerostar 3536-2000KV Brushless Outrunner Servo’s: 2 x 9g with extension leads #9499000141-0 – $89.65 Visit HobbyKing.com See more posts about HobbyKing The post Durafly Sidewinder FPV Racing Wing 1100mm [VIDEO] appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  4. From Tower Hobbies: With its 100” span wing, the Vista Grande EP sailplane handles well in wind and responds gently to control input. Bold stripes on the wing bottom aid in following orientation. Electric power means no hi-start, tow plane, or large launch area are needed. You can climb to soaring altitude quickly, coast on the thermals, come down, and do it all again — without recharging. Features include a factory-covered all-wood airframe; 3-piece, bolt-on wing; factory-hinged rudder and elevator; and center wing section spoiler. A brushless motor, ESC, and folding propeller are all included. Visit TowerHobbies.com See more posts about Tower Hobbies The post Tower Hobbies Vista Grande EP Sailplane AR [VIDEO] appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  5. JShumate

    Indoor RC Antonov AN-225

    When it comes to indoor RC, the last thing you would expect is the giant Antonov AN-255 cargo plane. Well, this impressive AN-225 model, is a very scale “micro” version that easily flies in indoor venues! Made of Depron, the model is powered by six Hobbico micro ducted-fan units with two, 2S 1000mAh batteries. Built and piloted by Daniel Hör, it’s seen here flying at the Intermodellbau Fair in Dortmund, Germany. We can only hope Daniel will build a micro scale Buran spaceplane so that his Antonov can carry to altitude! The post Indoor RC Antonov AN-225 appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  6. If you have ever been to an RC airshow, then you’ve seen aerobatic airplanes using smoke during their flight routines. When used properly, smoke systems can add a great deal to your flight presentation. The uniqueness it gives to specific segments of your flight routine will increase their appeal and pizzazz to both the spectators and your fellow pilots alike. MAN contributor and expert aerobatic pilot and national champion John Glezellis give us an up-close look at installing a smoke system properly for consistent performance. Decisions, Decisions Today, many commercially-available smoke systems use a separate battery source to control the smoke pump unit. I recommend these types as they don’t draw current from your receiver battery, and the volume of smoke that is produced can be easily controlled via your computer radio. While I have not used all of the smoke systems that are commercially available, I have tested and have successfully used several of them over the years. My personal favorites include the SmartSmoker from Tajera Microsystems Engineering, Inc. (TMJ), and the Skywriter from Sullivan shown above. Other popular manufacturers include 3W and Slimline, and while I have not personally used these pumps, I know they work equally as well. Pumpless Smoke Another popular smoke system is an older product but it still works great and doesn’t have a electrically driven pump. It is the B&B Specialties Smoke Pumper. This high volume smoke system contains the Pump, BB Control Valve, hose and all fittings for easy installation. The Super Smoke Pumper does not include the smoke generating muffler or smoke fuel tank. The heart of the BB Smoke System is, of course, the pumper which operates on engine crankcase pulsing pressure. No need to worry about a ruptured smoke fuel tank filling the inside of the fuselage with fluid. The smoke fuel tank is not pressurized. It is a surefire way of moving fluid from the smoke tank to your smoke generating muffler. Simple and effective. Installation If you are using a smoke pump such as the SmartSmoker or the Skywriter, you will need to gather the following materials: Smoke Pump Unit Check Valve Battery pack (4.8 – 6V) Fuel Tank for Smoke Fluid Fuel filler Dot Zip Ties Gasoline-proof fuel line Neoprene tubing T-Fitting Some pilots will be using the same aerobatic airplane for IMAC (sequence competition) as they use for their freestyle competition. Since smoke isn’t needed for IMAC routines, making a removable tray to support the smoke tank, pump, and pump battery, is a simple and quick way to save a pound or more in weight. If your model is a tad on the heavy side, give this idea some thought. Start by installing the smoke tank. If there’s room, I always prefer to mount my fuel tank and smoke tank together in an area very close to the airplane’s Center of Gravity. This way as fuel and smoke fluid is depleted the model’s CG will remain unchanged throughout the flight. If your fuel tank and smoke tank are located in the front of the model, you’ll find that your model is nose heavy at the start of the flight and as the flight progresses, you’ll have to change elevator trim as the model becomes more and more tail heavy. I run three lines out of the smoke tank. One line simply vents to the outside of the aircraft on the bottom of the model, the second attaches to the smoke pump (the internal line is attached to the clunk), and a third line that is used for filling the tank and is attached to a fuel dot. I also prefer to mount my pump close to the smoke tank, and close to the tank’s height within the airframe. I also make the smoke battery removable. I use a 2000mAh NiMH battery, but with such a small current draw, a 500mAh battery could be used and will provide about 30-minutes of smoke-on time. With a smoke pump like that from TME and Sullivan, you will notice that two servo leads come out of the pump. One is connected to the battery and the second lead plugs into a spare channel port in the receiver. Twin Cylinder Setup While using a twin-cylinder engine with two mufflers, Like this Zenoah GT 80 and Slimline Smoke Mufflers shown above, the smoke system needs a T-fitting to supply fluid to both mufflers. I attach Neoprene line from the “T” Fitting to each exhaust header (via a threaded pressure tap,) that I further secure to the header using JB Weld. I use gasoline tubing from the pump to a “T” fitting and Neoprene line after the T-fitting. Neoprene withstands heat much better than standard gasoline line. A check valve helps prevent muffler pressure pushing fluid backwards through the smoke pump during periods where the smoke system is off. The check valve is located between the tank and the T-fitting. Smoke Pump Programming If you feel that simply assigning your smoke pump to operate on a switch at one standard speed is acceptable, think again! When smoke is injected into the model’s muffler or exhaust system, it is critical to change the volume of fluid being pumped. If too much oil is injected into the muffler while the throttle is at a low setting, it can kill the engine. Not good for a maneuver like a spin with smoke on. Above, Now, it is important to utilize a Curve Mix to ensure that the smoke pump is off when the throttle stick is at idle, and the pump gradually increases in speed as the throttle is advanced. In addition to using a Mix, you can also decrease the smoke pump rate by using your ATV screen. Here, we have decreased the speed, when activated, to 50%. Find the proper balance by using both the Mix, and the ATV screen, to find the optimal rate. For my airplanes, I plug the smoke pump into a spare channel and assign it to a switch. For example, let’s say that I have Aux 4 as a free port on my receiver. In this case, I’ll assign Aux 4 to the Mix Switch on my transmitter. Then, I will utilize one of the programmable mixes to mix Throttle (the master channel) to Aux 4 (the slave channel). I then assign this mix to the switch (Gear Switch), and program different points on my mix graph (using a mix curve,) for different pump speeds to operate at in relation to the throttle setting. For example, at idle, I want the pump to barely operate so that little to no smoke fluid is pumped into the exhaust. As I increase the throttle, the smoke pump increases the flow. Using both the Adjustable Travel Volume screen and the Mix function can change the rate at which the pump operates at its fullest potential. Remember, though, the curve mix is critical! When programming the smoke volume, you can make most adjustments on the ground. For maximum power, though, let your engine idle for a minute or two on the ground. Then, activate your smoke pump at or close to full power. If you see a large burst of smoke initially followed by a smaller amount of smoke, decrease your smoke rate as too much oil is being used. Making fine adjustments like this will ensure that you have a reliable and impressive amount of smoke during your flights. Fine tuning the pump will also maximize your “Smoke On” time. Enhancing Your Flight If you simply use your smoke during the entire flight, it isn’t nearly as impressive as if you use it only to highlight specific maneuvers. For example, if you want to perform a knife-edge pass, turn the smoke on before you roll the model to knife-edge, and then shut it off after you complete the maneuver and you roll back to upright level flight. This is much more entertaining, adds a unique visual dimension, and optimizes your smoke fluid usage. Final Thoughts Installing and properly using a smoke system with your aerobatic plane is both quick and easy to accomplish. Laying down a long, thick, long lasting smoke trail is very satisfying and can be used for both an aerobatic routine, or with WW1 and WW2 warbirds. It’s all about having fun and impressing your flying buddies. Until Next Time, Smoke on and fly hard! Smoke Fluid Over the years, I have had great success by using Super Dri Aviation Smoke Oil by MDW Aviation. This fluid is designed for both full scale and model airplanes alike, and it burns very well. Also it is safe for the environment and is bio-degradable. Smoke fluid is also available from Robart Mfg., and their “Liquid Sky” smoke fluid is white in color, long hanging and a unique and pleasing Root Beer scent. Pilots everywhere are boasting about great success with Robart’s Liquid Sky and it is popular because it does not attack foam. It’s also available in larger containers for the really active show pilot. Take a visit to your local hobby shop to order, or check them both out online at: robart.com. Above, Mitch Epstein’s 2010 Top Gun entry was a sight to behold. Not only was the airplane beautifully built, but it smoked flawlessly throughout the competition. The post RC Smoke Systems Explained– Tips for long hang time appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  7. JShumate

    Perfect a Positive Snap Roll

    At the start of their flying careers, some pilots can only perform certain maneuvers from a particular direction. The proficient pilot, though, must be able to execute figures in all directions. Being able to apply corrective inputs in all directions, no matter what orientation the aircraft is in, is a critical skill. The positive snap roll in opposite directions combines two maneuvers, performed in opposite directions, within one figure. BEFORE WE BEGIN If you have an aerobat with large control surfaces and you want to perform precise figures with the utmost consistency, you must take advantage of dual, or triple, flight rates. It is difficult to fly precision maneuvers when there’s too much control surface deflection. I prefer to use a three-position flight mode where all rates for all control surfaces are found on a single switch. One rate is for rolling figures and general precision aerobatic maneuvers, the second rate is for snap rolls and spins, and the third is typically used for 3D flight. Given the fact that the maneuver of the month is not a 3D maneuver, maximum rates are not required. For this figure, a maximum of 35 degrees of control-surface deflection will be required for aileron, 20 degrees for elevator, and 35 degrees for rudder. On this rate, a great starting point for exponential is about 40% (this value will either be positive or negative, depending on the radio manufacturer). Adding exponential will soften how the airplane responds to certain control inputs around neutral, but you can achieve maximum travel by moving the control stick the maximum amount. While different pilots typically prefer different aircraft setups, the professional pilot will agree that time, patience, and proper flight techniques are required to find the best balance of exponential and control-surface deflection. OVERVIEW For the first few attempts, always perform this figure parallel to the runway, into the wind, and at a distance of about 300 feet for a 60-inch-span aircraft. A generous altitude will also help if you lose orientation, so you can always abort the maneuver by neutralizing the control sticks, seeing the orientation of the model, and applying corrective roll and pitch inputs to orient the aircraft in upright level flight. Equally important, keep a fair amount of distance between you and the aircraft; if you fly too close to yourself, you won’t be able to see the entire figure and apply corrective inputs. IF THE MANEUVER IS PERFORMED TOO SLOWLY, THE AIRCRAFT WILL TUMBLE THROUGH THE SNAP ROLL, AND IT WILL BE DIFFICULT TO CONTROL ALTITUDE AND HEADING. The figure of the month is centered on the pilot, which means that the halfway point for the maneuver is the brief line segment between the two snap rolls. With that said, the first snap roll will need to occur just seconds before the aircraft approaches the pilot so that the snap roll is complete and so that the second snap roll can occur right after passing the pilot. The moment that you will need to initiate the snap roll will vary depending on the rotation rate of the aircraft. Typical snap-roll rates, however, will require you to initiate the first snap roll about three seconds before the airplane approaches you. Apply up-elevator to initiate the maneuver and stall the aircraft. Then, apply left aileron and left rudder. Release inputs as the first rotation is complete; at that point, the airplane should be directly in front of you. Once complete, it is time to perform another snap roll but in the opposite direction. Again, apply up-elevator input but, this time, followed by right aileron and right rudder input. Let’s simplify matters, and divide this exciting figure into four separate steps. STEP 1. For the first attempt, begin by lining up the aircraft to the runway traveling level, upright, and into the wind at a fairly high altitude. Because the example illustration is flown from left to right, orient the model and apply 75% throttle. As the aircraft approaches you, initiate the snap roll by applying up-elevator to initiate the maneuver and stall the aircraft. Then apply left aileron and left rudder. STEP 2. Keep the rotation rate the same throughout the snap roll. Keep control inputs constant until the end of the maneuver and, as the aircraft approaches level, release the control inputs. At this point, the model should be placed directly in front of you. Releasing control inputs for different control surfaces at different times will result in a rotation rate that is not consistent throughout the entire figure, which would result in a downgrade in competition. STEP 3. Ensure that the speed of the aircraft is adequate to perform the second snap roll. If the first maneuver resulted in a fairly substantial speed difference, apply throttle as needed and begin the second snap roll. After the aircraft completes the first snap roll, execute a snap roll in the opposite direction. As with the first snap roll, apply up-elevator to stall the model. Then follow with right aileron and rudder. STEP 4. Again, control inputs should be held until the rotation is complete. Throttle use is important as it controls the airspeed of the aircraft. If the maneuver is performed too slowly, the aircraft will tumble through the snap roll, and it will be difficult to control altitude and heading. Once the rotation is complete, prepare to align the model and give this maneuver another try. FINAL THOUGHTS Some pilots prefer to roll only one direction. Being proficient in performing a snap roll (or a standard roll) in both directions, however, not only is mandatory for the competition aerobatic scene but also will make you a better pilot. With time, maneuvers like the positive snap roll in opposite directions will become second nature. Remember, while airframes all differ to some degree, programming concepts remain the same. Always take advantage of the various capabilities that your radio system offers so that you can tune the aircraft to your personal preferences. Above all else, though, remember to have fun! The post Perfect a Positive Snap Roll appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  8. JShumate

    One of a Kind Soviet Bomber

    Built and flown by Rainer Mattle, this monster 99-pound model is powered by six 15cc ASP gas engines and an electric pusher motor. Built up from wood, the 16-foot-span plane is also equipped with 16 servos, brakes, and steerable nose wheels and can be disassembled into six modules for easier transport. Kalinin K-7 might be just what you’re looking for! With a wingspan close to that of a B-52, only one full-size K-7 was ever built, and it crashed after seven flights due to a tail boom structural failure, so it’s doubtful you’ll run into another RC version at the next giant-scale fly-in. Thanks to RCHeliJet for taking a video of this monster model at the recent Hausen Am Albis event in Switzerland. The post One of a Kind Soviet Bomber appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  9. From Microaces: Using the NEW Microaces All-in-One (AIO) 5 Channel receiver plus one Aileron Servo, this wonderful new kit from Microaces can be flown with ailerons, rudder, elevator and throttle. Using the standard push rod control for rudder & elevator plus an extra linear servo coupled to a closed loop pull-pull mechanism for aileron control, this aircraft can be flown like the real thing: More aerobatic, more scale realism (no dihedral in the wings on this model) and more captivating than ever. Flown by Leutnant Wilhelm Leusch, Jasta 19, 1918 The model represents the Fokker D.VII flown by Wilhelm Leusch, distinguished by the image of a white dragon on both sides of the fuselage. Leusch was made commander of Jasta 19 in October 1918 and scored 5 victories. Royal Prussian Jagdstaffel 19 was formed on 25th October 1916, and was designated a ‘Hunting Group’. The new Jasta drew first blood on 6 April the following year. On 2 February 1918, Jasta 19 was detailed into Jagdgeschwader II along with Jasta 12, Jasta 13, and Jasta 15. The unit would score 92 verified aerial victories, including ten wins over enemy observation balloons. History in the Making Our love of aviation history ensures that the aircraft we choose to reproduce as kits not only look fantastic on static display and in the air, but they also carry a depth of history that can be explored. Although introduced in the later stages of WWI, the Fokker D.VII was a seriously formidable combat aircraft. Designed through the lessons of its predecessors it was comparitively stable, fast and maneuverable and was quickly liked by the pilots who flew it. Electronics Packs for the 4 Channel Fokker D.VII Use the NEW Microaces AIO 5 Channel receiver plus a single linear servo for aileron control. NOTE: You can select to purchase the kit with the NEW flight pack on this product page. This includes the receiver, aileron servo, motor/gearbox and prop + adapter. Specification: Airframe: Scale Controls: Ailerons, Rudder, Elevator, Throttle Length: 295mm / 11.5″ Wingspan: 368mm / 14.5″ Wing Area: 3.95 sq dm / 61 sq in. Flying Weight.: 37 – 41g/1.3 – 1.5oz Wing Load: ~9.5 g/sq.dm / 3.1 oz/sq.ft. Recommended Receiver: Microaces AIO 5 Channel Receiver (Spektrum or Futaba) Rec. Motor / G.Box: Microaces Short Shaft Motor/Gearbox Rec. Prop: GWS 4530 Skill Level – Build: Intermediate Skill Level – Pilot: Intermediate Tools required: Scalpel, 180 Grit sandpaper or stick, straight edge, tweezers Rec. Adhesive: UHU por / Foam safe CA / Aliphatic glue Kit Contents: SHEET PARTS: 2mm laser cut Depron Airframe sheet 1mm printed & laser cut Depron fuselage sheet 1mm printed & laser cut Depron flight surfaces sheet 200 micron printed & laser cut polypropylene sheet polyester sticker sheet 0.8mm laser cut plywood parts LOOSE PARTS: 3D printed aileron control boss x 2 Two 30mm Ø neoprene rubber tires Six 3mm Ø noedymium magnets 100mm x 6mm Ø plastic tube 1mm x 0.4mm carbon fibre strip 1mm Ø carbon fibre rod pre-shaped piano wire elevator & rudder control rods 1500mm of control/rigging wire Visit Microaces.MyShopify.com See more posts about Microaces The post Microaces Aero Fokker D.VII ‘Jasta 19’ Kit appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  10. From LaTrax: Alias is a clean-sheet design that focuses on the performance and design elements that make flying, and even learning to fly, fun. The first mission objective was durability. Alias is built around a unique molded-composite frame that is combined with clever high-tech construction to make it extremely light and resilient. Your flying fun goes on and on without worrying about breakage from crash damage. The next mission was performance. Fun always comes from having more power so Alias’ motors have 50% more power than standard motors, and when combined with the lightweight design and high-tech materials, Alias is lightning quick and ultra-responsive. A completely new flight control system was developed that provides unmatched 6-axis stability that works in the background without impacting performance and speed. It acts like a virtual spring that snaps Alias back to level controlled flight no matter what situation you find yourself in. New pilots can fly faster and perform aerobatic maneuvers sooner than they ever thought possible with Alias’ unique flight control system. Visit LaTrax.com See more posts about LaTrax The post Experience The Fun Of Flight With The LaTrax Alias [VIDEO] appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  11. JShumate

    Esprit HD & 3D Motors

    From Esprit Tech: Introducing the new Esprit series motors! Offered in HD and 3D Versions. Designed with a Hardened steel shaft, 30mm oversize bearing, bolt-on prop adapter, integrated cooling fan and pre-installed Jeti telemetry sensors, Esprit Motors represent the highest level of quality. Esprit 85cc E105/10-140 3D HD Outrunner Brushless Motor w/Telemetry Price: $590.00 Esprit 85cc E105/10-160 3D HD Outrunner Brushless Motor w/Telemetry Price: $590.00 Esprit 120cc E105/20-135 3D HD Outrunner Brushless Motor w/Telemetry Price: $690.00 Esprit 120cc E105/20-160 3D HD Outrunner Brushless Motor w/Telemetry Price: $690.00 Esprit 120cc E105/20-185 3D HD Outrunner Brushless Motor w/Telemetry Price: $690.00 Esprit 200cc E105/30-105 3D HD Outrunner Brushless Motor w/Telemetry Price: $790.00 Esprit 200cc E105/30-125 3D HD Outrunner Brushless Motor w/Telemetry Price: $790.00 Visit EspritModel.com See more posts about Esprit Tech The post Esprit HD & 3D Motors appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  12. From Esprit Tech: One of the most impressive European made sailplanes that we have ever seen. The brand new competition F5J/ALES Element 3.5E flies as good as it looks. Gentle, smooth, and very long flights are the standards for this beauty. The careful use of composites with competition balsa, creates a good light structure that will hold its shape for a long time. The synergy of low weight and strong structure is very unusual in a production sailplane and can only be achieved with careful attention to design and construction. The entire model is constructed using free-flight techniques. Top Model uses the latest construction techniques such as CNC milling and laser cutting. The wings as well as horizontal and vertical tail parts are all classic balsa with Carbon Fiber main spare and leading edge design. The fuselage is gel-coated fiberglass with white finish and CF canopy. Whole model is covered with Ultracote. All control surfaces are hinged with adhesive tape. This fully built sailplane needs only basic assembly and motor/radio installation. The 3-piece wing and full flying stabilizer are each easily removable for transport and storage. Each part is carefully hand-crafted with meticulous attention to detail. Value is simply incredible. Special Features: Control Surfaces: Ailerons, Elevator, Rudder and Flaps Tight covering, with all seams hand-sealed Elegant gel-coated white fiberglass fuselage w/CF canopy Three-pieces wing with ailerons and oversized flaps Ready-built Balsa/Carbon Fiber 3-piece wing design Ultracote covered wings and tail parts Includes all necessary hardware Virtually perfect, extremely clean and well made Specs: Airfoil: AG mod. Wing area: 1200 sq.in. (77.5 sg.dm) Wing loading: 9-9.5 oz/sq.ft. (25.5-27 g/sg.dm) Empty weight: 46 oz. (1300g) Suggested Equipment (Sport): (1) AXi Cyclone 46/760 (1) Jeti Advance 70 Pro SB ESC (1) 3300 3S battery (4) HS-85MG servo (ailerons, flaps) (2) MKS Ds6100 servo (rudder, elevator) (4) Servo frame Hitec HS-85BB/85MG/5085MG (2) Servo frame MKS Ds6100 (1) BB 40/5/8mm folding spinner (1) Aeronaut 15×8 folding propeller (2) Wing retainer system/Wing lock mini (1) Deans connector (2) MPX Connector set dual servos (2) 48″ Servo extension (2) 36″ Servo extension (6) 6″ Servo extension (1) Velcro strap for folding propeller (1) Building Services (Sailplane Firewall Installation) (1) Wing & Tail Bag Set TopModel Suggested Equipment (Power): (1) Race 2014/5100 6.7:1 (1) Jeti Spin Pro 66 ESC (1) 2700 3S battery (4) HS-5085MG servo (ailerons, flaps) (2) MKS Ds6100 servo (rudder, elevator) (4) Servo frame Hitec HS-85BB/85MG/5085MG (2) Servo frame MKS Ds6100 (1) BB 40/6/8mm folding spinner (1) Aeronaut 16×8 folding propeller Visit EspritModel.com See more posts about Esprit Tech The post Element 3.5E F5J/ALES Electric Sailplane (ARF) appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  13. Earlier
  14. JShumate

    Sneak Preview: Top Gun Coverage

    Premium members get our in-depth, 27-page feature on the 30th annual Top Gun Scale Invitational before the September issue hits mailboxes and newsstands. With the top 10 winners from each class as well as up-close scale details and a look at Top Gun through the years, this is event coverage you won’t want to miss! NOT A MEMBER YET? JOIN TODAY The post Sneak Preview: Top Gun Coverage appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  15. We’ve just posted an exclusive article on our Premium Member’s site by John Kauk, Demystifying Soldering Connectors. Setting up a new electric-powered model, and sometimes maintaining an older one, often requires installing new motor or battery connectors. Previously I discussed some of the different types of connectors available, so this time we’ll cover installing them. The various bullet connectors, such as Horizon’s EC and Castle Creations’ plugs, have a small cup on the end into which the wire is soldered. Blade or flat-plate connectors, like the Deans Ultra and Hobbico’s Star plugs, require soldering, too, but require a slightly different technique. Finally, the Anderson Powerpoles I’ve used for many years can either be soldered or, better yet, crimped onto the leads. Tools for soldering connectors arranged around a ProgressiveRC Solder Station include (clockwise from top) wire cutters and strippers, tweezers, a 40-watt Weller iron, and a variety of hemostats and clamps. To read the entire article and gain access to more exclusive online content, Click Here to subscribe and become a premium member. The post New for Premium Members — Demystifying Soldering appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  16. If you are one of many modelers who acquired an ARF-type model of an American airplane, the chance that its star-and-bar markings is correct is about one in 10. It’s sad but true. Among models built by usually careful modelers and displayed at meets, like the Toledo Show and Joe Nall, the situation is somewhat better, but incorrect markings still outnumber the correct ones. What is it about the star-and-bar marking that makes it so difficult to get right and so often to be done wrong? Judging by the wide variation of ways to goof it up, there are a number of reasons. To illustrate this point, at a recent Top Gun event, one of the static judges, Rich Uravitch, and I looked in amused amazement at one particular model where the star and bar appeared in six places and each one was wrong—and each in a different way. If we take a look at a correct marking and analyze its construction, we can see how easy it is to get wrong. In doing this analysis, it must be noted that, like anything military, the markings follow a strict formula, with variations from it being virtually nonexistent. On the positive side, the formula is extremely simple because all the dimensions are based on one measurement only: the radius of the circle enclosing the star. So let’s start. STEP 1 Draw a circle with a known radius. This dimension is referred to as “R.” STEP 2 Inside the circle, draw a regular five-point star. (Note: The top point faces up on the side of the fuselage and forward on the wings.) STEP 3 From the shoulders of the star, draw lines outward whose lengths are the same as R. STEP 4 From the ends of these lines, draw vertical lines downward whose lengths are ½ of R. (Note: This is where many mistakes are made.) From the ends of the vertical lines, draw the bottom horizontal lines back to the circle. STEP 5 Around the entire figure, draw an outline whose width is equal to 1/8 R. If the marking is the postwar type, which includes the red stripe inside the white bar sections, the width of the stripe is equal to ⅙ R, and it is centered on the white bar. Note that the red stripe is slightly wider than the blue outline. Skyraiders with correct post-WW II markings with the red stripe. Color Specs After learning how the U.S. aircraft insignia should look, it is also important to get the colors right. The FS (Federal Standard) 595a color reference guide identifies the colors to use as follows: Insignia Blue: 35044 if matte and 15044 if glossy Insignia Red: World War II: 30109; pre- and postwar: 31136 if matte and 11136 if glossy Insignia White: 37875 if matte and 17875 if glossy Special note: During World War II, Insignia White was often applied as a mix of 13 parts white to one part black. This was due to straight white being too bright and conflicting with the need for camouflage. Incorrect Obviously, the bars here are too long. Correct This is how it should be on a Grumman Cougar. Examples of Wrong Markings BAR TOO DEEP Note that the correct figure is not symmetrical about the horizontal centerline (see Step 4). This is the most common error and probably accounts for most of the mistakes because it is wrongly assumed that the figure is symmetrical. INCORRECT BARS Bars do not touch the star but, instead, follow the overall outline. Other mistakes can include an outline that’s too thick or, more often, too thin (or worse: varying the width!) as well as variations in the length of the bars. As indicated earlier, there are a host of ways to goof up the star and bar but only one way to have it right. FINAL WORD It’s easy to correct a mismarked model simply by putting a correct marking over an incorrect one. This might not be worth the trouble for a foamie, but it will help your score on a competition-scale entry. One interesting side note to this discussion is that the International Plastic Modellers’ Society (the plastic-kit modelers’ organization) never got it wrong. We surely can’t let plastic modelers outshine us! BY DAVE PLATT The post Painting Proper Scale Markings — Get the Stars-and-Bars right appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  17. JShumate

    Slow Rolls — Wow the Crowd

    Want to spice up this weekend’s flying? The slow roll is a challenging classic maneuver that’s actually much harder to perform than it looks. With a little practice, though, you’ll be ready to put on a show! Enter straight and level, full-power roll left Slowly add right rudder Maximum right rudder Smoothly release right rudder and begin to add down-elevator Maximum down-elevator Slowly release down-elevator and add left rudder Maximum left rudder Smoothly release left rudder and add up-elevator Slight up-elevator, exit straight and level PROPERLY PERFORMED, THE SLOW ROLL IS A VERY GRACEFUL MANEUVER THAT WILL IMPRESS YOUR PEERS The slow roll is deceptively simple and is rarely seen at flying fields. A horizon-to-horizon slow roll requires careful timing of the aileron, rudder and elevator; this requires finesse. The control inputs are similar to those of the four-point roll with the exception of the aileron: it remains constant throughout the maneuver. Although I found it easier to learn the four-point roll first, some pilots think the slow roll should be mastered first. The first step is to determine your plane’s roll rate. The roll should take at least five seconds. Get the plane up high, and enter a 30-degree climb at full power. Apply aileron in either direction to begin the roll, and apply down-elevator during the inverted segment. You will need to add more down-elevator than you would for a standard roll because the plane will spend more time inverted. Adjust the aileron input until you achieve the five-second target, and note how much aileron was required. For consistency, some pilots use dual rates to set the required throw. Now add the rudder and elevator inputs for the knife-edge positions. For a left slow roll, smoothly add right rudder as the plane approaches the first knife-edge position. Ease off the rudder input as the plane continues past knife-edge, and add down-elevator as it approaches inverted. Once past inverted, release the down-elevator, and add left rudder for the last knife-edge portion. Smoothly release the left rudder when past the knife-edge, and recover to straight and level flight. Use the same escape route as the four-point roll if things start to go awry; continue to roll back to straight and level. Properly performed, the slow roll is a very graceful maneuver that will impress your peers. These are the building blocks for many of the maneuvers that are flown in pattern and precision aerobatic contests. It takes a lot of discipline to perfect them, but they add purpose to your flying. If you seek a challenge, and boring holes in the sky is becoming old hat, give these maneuvers a try. The only way to improve is practice, practice and more practice! The post Slow Rolls — Wow the Crowd appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  18. From UVify: Ok, so now we’re just showin off a little bit lol. Since the Draco is modular we’ve been working on 7 inch mods to make long distance flying a bit easier. The Draco can be modded with a 6s battery and a GoPro pretty easily. It overall makes for a pretty sweet ride and is a pretty easy mod. It’s still in testing but you’ll see it soon. Visit UVify.com See more posts about UVify The post UVify Draco 7″ Mod Flight Test [VIDEO] appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  19. From Tower Hobbies: Though it goes together easily, Tower Hobbies’ 40” span P-51B Mustang looks like the real “Shangri La” fighter and flies like it’s on rails! The model’s loaded with details, like molded exhaust stacks, panel lines, machine guns, instrument panel, and a painted and installed pilot bust. It’s also Receiver-Ready — the 1000Kv brushless motor, 30A ESC and four servos are already in place. Just add your radio system and battery. Repairing the AeroCell foam airframe takes only CA adhesive. For maximum realism, use the pre-hinged flaps and add easy-to-install optional flaps! Visit TowerHobbies.com See more posts about Tower Hobbies The post Tower Hobbies P-51B Mustang Shangri-La EP Rx-R [VIDEO] appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  20. JShumate

    13 Foot Span RC Spruce Goose

    Built and flown by Jürgen Schönle, this eight-motor model has over a 13-foot wingspan yet weighs just under 11 pounds, thanks to its foam and carbon-fiber construction. The 1/22-scale aircraft is powered by a single 3S, 4000mAh LiPo! Jurgen spent only a month building this model. Howard Hughes would be proud! Thanks to RC Media World for taking this video at the seaplane event in Edersee, Germany earlier this month. The post 13 Foot Span RC Spruce Goose appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  21. JShumate

    Incredibly Realistic Fw 190

    We’ll admit it: from the minute this video started we were hooked. The animated pilot figure and sliding canopy are the perfect touch to this 1/5- scale FW 190 D-9 model. The 82.67-inch-span aircraft is powered by a Zenoah G-62 and weighs in at close to 31 pounds. Austrian pilot Klaus Herold does a great job of putting it through its paces at the Falcon Wings Fly-In, and we thank RCScaleAirplanes for expertly capturing it on video. The post Incredibly Realistic Fw 190 appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  22. During World War II (1939-1945), the Battle of Normandy, which lasted from June 1944 to August 1944, resulted in the Allied liberation of Western Europe from Nazi Germany’s control. Codenamed “Operation Overlord”, the battle began on June 6, 1944, also known as D-Day, when some 156,000 American, British and Canadian forces landed on five beaches along a 50-mile stretch of the heavily fortified coast of France’s Normandy region. The invasion was one of the largest amphibious military assaults in history and required extensive planning. Prior to D-Day, the Allies conducted a large-scale deception campaign designed to mislead the Germans about the intended invasion target. By late August 1944, all of northern France had been liberated, and by the following spring the Allies had defeated the Germans. The Normandy landings have been called the beginning of the end of war in Europe. The post D-Day — June 6, 1944 — The Beginning of the End of the War in Europe appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  23. Avoid these common power system mistakes Electric fliers all have one thing in common regardless of the size or type of models they fly—the electronic speed control (ESC). It doesn’t matter if you fly helicopters, airplanes, giant-scale, indoor, or micro models; at the heart of your power system is the speed control, and if it’s unhappy, you will be too. The costs and types of speed controls vary in every aspect and that includes quality. The one constant, however, is your understanding of how to make them last, which in the end, saves money and your aircraft! Poorly constructed motors can throw magnets and cause extreme current spikes that will destroy a speed control. Quality Matters This pretty much covers everything. Quality motors, connectors, speed controls, installation, solder joints, etc., but let’s talk about components. When encountering speed control problems, we don’t often think about whether they might have been caused by a cheap (poorly made) motor, but it can and does happen. I recently experienced a catastrophic failure in a foam jet that caused the speed control to melt and actually burn its way out of the bottom of the aircraft. Parts of it were left inside, but it unsoldered itself and melted completely. Upon post-mortem inspection, I found that the magnets inside the motor were unevenly spaced and one had actually come loose and been chewed into pieces as the motor spun. The funny thing about electric motors is when something starts to go wrong, the motor will just ask for more current so it can work to overcome it. My on-board data logger showed normal current at takeoff and shortly after, it began to climb until it spiked off the scale. This is an indication that the motor was failing and the binding of the magnet chunks caused the excessive current spike that subsequently melted the speed control. Some speed controls have over-current protection and others don’t. Look for one that does! This doesn’t guarantee that it won’t be damaged by a sudden failure like mine, but it just may help save the speed control. This was an expensive failure due to a poorly made motor. BE COOL! The speed control in this foam jet is jammed into the nose, so it’s fully insulated and gets no cooling air. With the heavy load from the motor and too many servos, this will overheat and die quickly. Install your speed control in a place where you can get maximum airflow across it. Remember that if you let cool air into the fuselage, you have to provide a place for the air to get out too. That exit hole should be about twice the size of the inlet hole. Heat is the enemy, so the cooler you keep your speed control, the happier it will be. Eleven servos and an onboard LED lighting system overtax the speed control’s BEC. SIZE MATTERS The quickest way to get experience buying speed controls is to buy them too small for the application—meaning the motor voltage and current requirements along with the BEC (battery eliminator circuit) requirements if you’re using one. If you’re sizing your speed control based on the maximum requirements of the system and you’re just barely meeting them, go to the next size up. If you can use one with a heat sink, do so. If your BEC requirements match or exceed the ratings of the speed control’s BEC, then choose a different speed control or disable the BEC and use appropriate receiver power. Remember, if your BEC fails, you lose the airplane. Proper Soldering A good soldered joint between the wire and 6mm bullet will handle a lot of current. Note that there is no excess solder running all over the outside of the bullet and the joint is shiny clean. Many of the connectors in our electric power systems need to be soldered to wires. Always use properly sized wire gauges and quality connectors. Even the best soldering job can’t make up for bad wire and poorly made connectors. A properly soldered joint is shiny! Your components can’t be too clean, so clean the components before trying to solder them. Your fingers will get oils on everything, so be careful with what you touch. Tin both surfaces before joining them and then use just enough heat to let the solder flow between the two pieces. If the iron is oversized and too hot, it will end up being a dark, burned joint. If the solder flows and ends up nice, shiny, and bright—you’ve been successful. Wiring Basics This is a big motor requiring a large speed control and unfortunately, this one isn’t up to the task. Adding to the problems is the small gauge wire and adapter using uninsulated bullets. This system was caught and changed before there could be a problem. A question I often hear is, “Is it better to lengthen the wires from the battery to the speed control or to lengthen the wires from the speed control to the motor?” Online forums are full of ideas, opinions, conjecture, and debate over this question. Let me give the simple answer first; it is better to lengthen the wires from the speed control to the motor and keep the battery wires as short as possible. That’s it, plain and simple. The debate arises over resistance and inductance. It’s argued that using a larger gauge wire reduces the resistance, making Recipe for a Cooked longer battery wires acceptable. While it does reduce resistance, it doesn’t take into account the increased inductance it causes. Proponents of lengthening the battery wires say that can be overcome by adding additional capacitors to the front of the speed control. This is a patch, not a fix. The speed control comes with capacitors installed as determined by the manufacturer for its intended application. Without specific knowledge on current and how good the flyback diodes are, along with the switching speed of the FETs, voltage rating of the FETs, and types of FETs, you’re grasping at straws. If you do know those things, you’ll still need to do a lot of math to figure out the appropriate caps to add. Recipe for a Cooked Speed Control Take one undersized speed control Add cold solder joints Use extra long wires from the battery to the speed control Pack it in a foam plane with no cooling air Fly partial throttle settings extensively Push the BEC to its max limits and beyond Fly consecutive flights without a break Here are quotes from AstroFlight’s Bob Boucher on the topic of which wire to lengthen: •Wire resistance may rob you of a bit of power, but it will not destroy your speed control or motor. •Wire inductance will not damage your motor nor will you be able to detect any effect even with 100 feet of wire. •Wire inductance will kill the mosfets in your controller and may even blow the caps. Ed. Note: Bob is comparing inductance in the motor to speed control wire with inductance in the speed control to battery wire. •You must keep battery wires as short as practical. Short means one foot or less, brushed or brushless makes no difference. Bob is better known as “AstroBob,” former owner of AstroFlight and holder of a patent on electric flight. When AstroBob talks, I listen. Always lengthen the wires from the motor to the speed control if needed. The best possible solution is to keep all wires as short as possible, but we know that’s not always easy when you’re doing that special scale project. NEATNESS COUNTS All of these unsecured wires flopping around right over the receiver antenna will cause trouble. There is also 18 inches of wire from the battery to the speed control, and that’s WAY too much! Remember what your mother told you, “neatness is important.” A jumble of wires just stuffed into a fuselage can cause many problems, especially if they are unsecured and flopping around on top of your receiver antenna. We have become overly secure with our robust 2.4 systems, but wires moving around in close proximity or touching the antennas can and will cause reception problems. If you have so much wire that you need to bundle them or tie them up, take the time to trim them to the proper size. This makes the plane safer, but also shortens wires and decreases resistance. This counts whether it’s for your motor/speed control or servos. Mismatched connectors are ALWAYS a bad idea. Connectors & Adapters Note the securely attached speed control for this big power system and how the connections are well insulated and secured. Short wire runs and a protective grommet in the firewall, where the wires pass through, ensures no shorts over time. An improper extension made by jamming a bullet into the EC5 connectors. Great connectors ruined by a bad idea. A homemade parallel battery connector in a plane; wire nuts belong at home, not in your plane. There is no standardization between connector types, so most of us end up using an adapter at one time or another. Be sure to wire and solder them carefully. Double check the adapter before using it. The goal in electrics is to reduce the possibility for increased resistance in our circuits. This causes heat and wasted power. It’s best not to use an adapter, but if it’s necessary, be sure it’s properly sized and constructed. Wire nuts have their places in home wiring construction, but NEVER belong inside our aircraft. Check your manufacturer’s website to see the limits of their connectors. If you’re pushing the limits of your 4mm bullet connector, then go to a 6mm size. The same applies when you’re using EC3s or whatever brand. You want the most surface contact and least amount of resistance you can get for maximum efficiency from your system. Tips for a Happy Speed Control • Buy a quality speed control • Buy one large enough to handle the load • Don’t exceed the BEC limits • Provide cooling; all that you can get • Keep wires as short as possible • Use appropriate connectors NEVER mismatch connectors. I’ve seen Dean’s Ultras jammed into female bullet types and that is a recipe for disaster. I’ve also seen spade plugs shoved into the grooves between the contacts on a male bullet connector. Likewise, alligator clips have no place in an electric airplane. They may seem like a universal fix, but it’s actually a universal mistake. All of these things can be inefficient, but more importantly—they are all dangerous and create a fire hazard. MOUNT IT SECURELY It’s not always easy to find the right place to securely mount the speed control, but it’s absolutely necessary. Some larger controllers come with mounting brackets so they can be screwed to the front of a firewall, etc. Most smaller controllers depend on you to figure it out. Velcro is the usual method of choice and works well. Be sure it is secure though. If in doubt, use industrial strength versions or rigid lock tabs. Whatever you do, don’t allow it to flop around inside your plane held only by the wires. BOTTOM LINE No one wants to cook their speed controllers! As with everything else involved in our hobby, it’s the small details that matter the most. Avoid these common mistakes and you’ll maximize your airplane’s efficiency and greatly lengthen its lifespan. –BY GREG GIMLICK The post Don’t cook your speed control! appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  24. JShumate

    Painting Fabric Covered Models

    When it comes to producing a smooth paint job over fabric covered RC models, the best and quickest paint to use is Poly Tone and it’s various finishing and coating products. Available from F&M Enterprises, all the products are formulated to work with each other and they are extremely easy to use. I use a HVLP (High volume, low pressure) paint gun as it produces much less over-spray and provides a wide range of control for the amount of paint and air being mixed and applied to the model. The first step is to apply the Poly Brush sealer coat to the fabric covering. You can use a brush or spray it and it takes between 2 and 4 coats to provide a smooth base for your paint job. The more coats you use, the smoother your finish will be. Next comes the Poly Spray Silver undercoat. It is very heavily pigmented with aluminum powder and needs to be completely mixed and reduced before spraying with the gun. it is best to use a wood dowel to mix up the settled pigment from the bottom of the can. Here’s the fuselage with two coats of silver applied. The tail surfaces and the wings are next. Here are the tail surfaces with silver undercoat, hung up to dry between coats. For the larger surfaces I shoot them with paint while horizontal blocked up on my work/paint table. I go over all the edges first and then apply paint to the rib tapes. I then fill in one coat with span-wise coats followed by chord-wise coats. I apply two coats of each color with about an hour drying time between each application. Here’s the light underside buff tan color applied to the wing panels. Same technique goes for all the other surfaces, the stabilizer and elevators, rudder, fin and all four ailerons. Also the tan color is applied to the fuselage bottom surface. I let the first color dry over night and then I add the top surface color. In this case the vintage Sopwith brown color, which is I think more attractive than the olive green color you see so much used on Sopwith airplanes. It is always important to have ventilation and here’s my “at hock” setup. It works great in keeping the over-spray and fumes from building up in my basement! For the fin and rudder, I used Juneau white which is a slightly darker white, or a very light shade of gray. In fact, one of the reasons I love using the Poly Tone brand of paint is that it has a fantastic shelf life, if you seal the cans properly. I bought this white paint for a Stearman project I did back in 1996! 19 years ago! So here it is, all the cloth covered surfaces have been sealed and painted. I think the brown is a striking color for the Camel and will be very attractive when the graphics and decals are applied Here are a could of photos of a Camel with the brown base color paint scheme. Complete Camel ready to fly. The post Painting Fabric Covered Models appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  25. We just uploaded our latest exclusive flight test video to the Premium Members Website. The test flight is of the Parkzone Conscendo Advanced 1.5m BNF, capturing all the action as MAN contributor Rick Bell puts the new powered glider though it paces for the first time. When the original Conscendo S was introduced a few years back, it was an immediate hit. With its convenient size, excellent flight characteristics, it’s no wonder there was an outcry when it was discontinued. ParkZone though has been quietly working behind the scenes for a new and improved version and now brings us the Conscendo Advanced 1.5m BNF! If you liked the original version, you’re really going to love this one! Molded from lightweight,durable EPO foam The Conscendo advanced is equipped with AS3X and SAFE, hitting max altitude is easy and fun. With four channels, this model will take you far beyond just catching thermals with its aerobatic capabilities. Assembly is minimal and can be completed in far less time than it takes to charge your battery. Rick comments that, In the air, the ParkZone Conscendo Advance is a nice, smooth flyer, and it thermals surprisingly well for a 1.5m foamie. It has SAFE and AS3X stabilization technology so it is a great choice for the beginner, it works as advertised. Hand launching the model is very easy, simply point it into the wind, power up and gently toss it–the plane will be up on step quickly and climbing out smartly. The speed control also comes pre-programmed to automatically apply the propeller brake function when the throttle is brought to its lowest position so the prop quickly folds back to decrease drag, but more importantly to lessen damage to the prop during landings. The detailed Flight Test will be featured in the upcoming September issue of MAN. To become a member and see our exclusive test flight video, click the link below and become a premium member. http://www.airagestore.com/memberships/planes/one-full-year-of-exclusive-member-access-for-only-24-95.html The post New for Premium Members — Parkzone Conscendo Flight Test Video appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  26. One thing is for sure, WW1 biplanes make amazing giant scale projects, and when we talk about really big giant scale RC airplanes, half-scale (and larger), things really start to get exciting. First featured in Model Airplane News a few years ago, Ian Turney-White’s impressive WW I biplane is truly an amazing piece of work for sure. Here’s a flight video shot at a Large Model Association meet at in Elvington, England. Powered by a 425cc JPX engine, the 19-foot-span scratch-built biplane weighs in at 195 pounds. In addition to highlighting its great flight characteristics, this video by Dean and Pete Coxon shows a lot of the plane’s scale details. Enjoy! Courtesy of Tbobborap1 The post Monster-Scale Hanriot HD.1 — Flight and Detail Video appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  27. JShumate

    UVify OORI

    From UVify: The world’s first smart racing drone OOri is the drone for everyone. Easy to control, fun to fly, and most of all, fast. The latest addition to the UVify product line delivers the UVify experience in an entirely different form factor. Power to the people Performance-tweaked brushless UVify motors coupled with UVify sensor tech means you fly faster with confidence.OOri is the world’s fastest and most agile production micro drone. Hold position Integrated sensors means OOri holds its position with ease. Flatten the learning curve and fly carefree. Focus on your flying moves knowing that OOri’s ground proximity sensor has your back. Flying colors Push a button and OOri is any color you imagine. Know who your teammates are when racing with tweakable LEDs. Lock-on, pop-off prop protectorLock-on, pop-off prop protector. Lock on for prop protection. Pop off for power and agility! Save props when mastering new moves. Get props when showing your moves full on. Palm pilot Fits in your palm—fly circles around your friends, then wave goodbye when OOri leaves them floundering in its wake. Unmatched technological prowess in a micro drone. Optimal size for racing Sharing the DNA of UVify’s multiple-award winning Draco series of racing drones, OOri is best-in-class in every area that matters – speed, agility, technology, design and build quality. Hold position! Equipped with the powerful height-fixed system, OOri can hover accurately and steadily, promising you stabilized vision, and allowing you to seize the moment of the mountains and rivers whenever you feel inspired. Ready to fly OOri comes bundled with a controller and a screen. Unbox, power up, take off! USB SUPPORT Charge your battery with a micro USB cable and enjoy your simulator in the palm of your hand. 5.8GH RECEIVER INCLUDED OOri’s transmitter is equipped with a 5.8GHz analog receiver. Just turn on and take off! DRONE LIKE A GAME OOri’s transmitter is has thumb sticks like your game gear. You will be a hero in the racing arena. Quick-click smart battery Thanks to the UVify single cell smart battery, Plug-free, wire-free, awkwardness-free, click in, turn on, and take off! 660mAh battery Shell protected single cell battery with low voltage protection and plug-and-play style connector, your battery is protected until the last second of flight. Charging station UVify’s multiple battery charging station ensures that you always have the power to be airborne. OOri keeps flying while other drones are on the ground getting recharged.* * Subject to change before release. $389.00 Visit UVify.com See more posts about UVify The post UVify OORI appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  1. Load more activity