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KRProton

CCRCC Member
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KRProton last won the day on March 12

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About KRProton

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  1. Hello fellow CCRCC members. I would like to use this forum to inform my CCRCC friends that I will be relocating to Beckley, West Virginia at the end of October. My wife Wendy has taken the position of Dean at a small community college in that area. The thrill and adventure of this new chapter is still outweighed by the sorrow of leaving good RC friends and acquaintances and the anxiety of everything else involved, but I’m sure that within time I’ll begin looking forward to my new life. (I can say that I’ll have one heck of a modeling shop and the best paint booth in the country in the large basement of our new home!) In addition to the club members, I have to say I will greatly miss the CCRCC flying site as it is one of the best in the country! More about the CCRCC membership though, I am continually uplifted by how curious, interested and open the membership at-large has been to all forms of RC modeling (especially my pylon racing inclinations!). As you know, many (most?) clubs are not so welcoming. I cannot quite put my finger on why this is, but I have to think it has something to do with intelligence. I actually believe that the CCRCC membership as a whole is more educated and therefore less intimidated than other clubs who discourage types of modeling with which they are not familiar or interested. I apologize for not informing you in-person, but since I made the announcement at work today I wanted to give you an official source of information rather than learning through the rumor mill. My last day at Hobbico will be October 20. I promise to keep in-touch through the CCRCC forum and will be sure to visit the CCRCC site whenever I come through. Thank you again for all of your support and friendship over the years. Tim Lampe
  2. New QM 40 pylon racer

    Here's the finished project. Plan to maiden during practice on Friday before the race this weekend (May 20, 21) in Muncie. Tim
  3. I was perusing the internet forums on RC Groups recently and came across this thread containing various links to discussions regarding LiPo storage practices, dead LiPo revival, etc. The topics therein are relevant to my recent presentation. I thought some of you may find this information helpful and interesting. Tim https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1074181-Lipo-Storage-Voltage-and-Dead-Battery-Information
  4. Bad servo symptoms

    Hi Jeremy. Now that I think of it, I hesitate to comment on the characteristics/behavior of another manufacturer's servos (being that, by default I represent Futaba since I work for Hobbico). If Hitec says chattering in their servos is normal I am not in a position to argue with that. I do know that some digital servos at least "hum" or buzz while in neutral (no load being placed on them other than the weight of the surfaces). Tim
  5. New QM 40 pylon racer

    Hi Jeremy. The Jett (in this plane) unloads to around 26,000 - 27,000 rpm in the air, but typically uses a slightly larger prop (7.4 x 7.6) while the Nelson unloads to around 28,000 rpm on a smaller prop (7.4 x 7.5). But these figures can change by individual engine setup (head and sleeve shims) and prop. They run on 15% nitro. Tim
  6. Bad servo symptoms

    Hi Jeremy. I don't know of any particular symptoms to look for to see if a servo is "bad" (or not suitable for using in a plane), but anything out of the ordinary and don't use it...buzzing when not under a load, any "chattering" or erratic movements, not returning to center (given some degree of tolerance depending on the quality of servo - a less-expensive, bushed servo may not center as well as an expensive, digital, ball bearing servo), the servo getting warm, anything unusual and don't chance it. If a servo is suspect, I'll grab the servo wheel or arm and move the servo with my radio to see how it behaves. This isn't scientific, you have to use your own judgement. I've used Tactic TSX20 or TSX25 servos in several recent projects at work and all seem to perform well. They're a nice little bargain servo that is a good replacement for a standard-size servo in like a .25 - .40-size plane. Now that I think of it, we used them and recommend them for the Kaos .60 ARF. Tim
  7. New QM 40 pylon racer

    Here's what I'm working on presently. Can't have enough pylon planes, right!? This is an Advanced Pylon Products Sweet 1 Q40 (Quarter 40) pylon racer. I'm using a Jett brand QM 40 engine (made by Dub Jett in Texas). Comes with a fiberglass fuselage with some carbon fiber reinforcement, molded hollow wing and horizontal tail surfaces, belly pan, engine cover and modest hardware package. I'll probably paint the fuselage, but just use some vinyl graphics on the wing...
  8. How do you remove Monokote?

    Hey Jeremy. I've done the re-cover on several ARFs that were already MonoKoted. I just carefully peel it off without any heat. When warm, the pigmented adhesive is softer and more likely to adhere to the balsa. Occasionally, some color does remain on the structure, but it usually sands off easily with like 320-grit. I then resand the entire structure with 400-grit. Any faint remnants of pigment will be concealed by the new covering anyway (unless it's a light color over a dark color). CA debonder is great for wiping away MonoKote pigmented adhesive, but mainly on MonoKote. On balsa it may just dissolve deep into the balsa, then be impossible to remove. Here's a link to a Part 1 (of four or five ) of a blog I entered in RC Groups with a re cover I did a couple years ago. Therein are some pics of covering removal... https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2316885-Great-Planes-Sequence-1-20-(Part-I) Tim
  9. Which entrance for Mall Show?

    Thanks Jeremy.
  10. I can't find anything about the mall show anywhere (here, or in the newsletter - maybe I'm looking in the wrong place). I signed up to work a couple hours today, but which mall entrance shall we use that will be closest to our display? I don't want to carry my planes all the way through the mall if I don't have to. Thanks! Tim
  11. A few have expressed interest about my trip to Phoenix to compete to compete in the Q40 Classic pylon race that took place February 25 – 26. Below is a link to the web page in the NMPRA (National Miniature Pylon Racing Association) web site where I posted a report with images. When you get to the page you may have to scroll down a little to get to my entry. http://www.nmpra.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=5490&start=30#p29640 Tim
  12. Battery presentation and worksheet

    If the links to the web pages for further reading in the “Calculating true C-rating” document don’t work, you can copy the link, open another internet tab, then paste the link in the space for the address. Tim
  13. For Scott Dossett

    Hello Scott. I wanted to answer your Kunai inquiry immediately, but do not have access to my email account right now, so I'll try here! My favorite battery for the Kunai is the GPMP0836 3S 1200mAh 30C. It is narrower than others and fits the Kunai well: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=&FVSEARCH=gpmp0836 Though the Star connector on the battery is a T-style, it is slightly bulkier than a Deans Ultra, so if you get a Kunai and find fitting the connector under the canopy a bit of a nuisance you could just replace it with a Deans. Regarding modifications, I prefer to fly mine stock. There are several guys modifying theirs with "faster" motors and batteries, but these also require reinforcement which also makes the Kunai heavier. It will fly faster which is fine, if that's your thing. Me, I just like to putt around the sky! ;-) Seriously, the Kunai is plenty powerful and maneuverable for me the way it is. If you've ever seen me fly one (like this past Sunday), that's stock, out-of-the-box. But the Kunai thread over in RC Groups is VERY active with plenty of tips for modification if you so choose. Here's a link to the thread: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2091691-Kunai-1-4M-Electric-Glider Let me know if you have any more questions! Tim
  14. As we all know the weather was unseasonably BEAUTIFUL last weekend. I snagged a couple photos and just thought I'd post them here. Next time I'll do better (and take more images).
  15. Preparing a LiPo battery for disposal

    Hi Mike! Your discharge device looks pretty cool - very handy! But how long would it take to discharge a battery @ 50 Ohms? Well, I Googled up Ohm's law again: I think we need to find the current to calculate the length of time to discharge... I = V/R where I = the current, V = voltage and R = the resistance... I'll use a 3S battery as an example. I = 11.1V / 50 Ohms I = .222 A So, a 50 Ohm resistance to a 3S battery puts a load of .222 Amps. Now we can calculate how long it will take to discharge a battery. In our 3S battery example, let's also assume it's a 2200mAh capacity and is discharged to the recommended 3.7V/cell (which also correlates to 20% capacity remaining). 20% capacity remaining of a 2200mAh battery = .2 x 2200mAh = 440mAh. 440mAh = .44Ah Then, a .44Ah / .222A = 1.98h @ 50 Ohms resistance, it would take about two hours to fully-discharge a 3S 2200mAh battery that has been flown down to typical, recommended discharge (that's provided all my math and units are correct!). Tim P.S. Here's a link to a calculator for Ohm's law: http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/ohms-law-calculator For our needs, you input the voltage (I used nominal voltage (3.7V) for a 3S battery (11.1V)) and resistance (50 Ohms for your discharge tool). Click "Calculate" and it will show the current (I).

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Our flying field is the Former Champaign Municipal Landfill which was operated as a municipal solid waste landfill from approximately 1955 to 1975. As an AMA chartered Club our goal is to provide a forum for club members to exchange ideas and benefit from each others experiences with the hobby of building and the sport of flying radio controlled model aircraft. We are committed to promoting the enjoyment of safe R/C flying in accordance with AMA and Champaign County Radio Control Club rules and guidelines.

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