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KRProton last won the day on March 12

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About KRProton

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  1. Here's the finished project. Plan to maiden during practice on Friday before the race this weekend (May 20, 21) in Muncie. Tim
  2. I was perusing the internet forums on RC Groups recently and came across this thread containing various links to discussions regarding LiPo storage practices, dead LiPo revival, etc. The topics therein are relevant to my recent presentation. I thought some of you may find this information helpful and interesting. Tim
  3. Hi Jeremy. Now that I think of it, I hesitate to comment on the characteristics/behavior of another manufacturer's servos (being that, by default I represent Futaba since I work for Hobbico). If Hitec says chattering in their servos is normal I am not in a position to argue with that. I do know that some digital servos at least "hum" or buzz while in neutral (no load being placed on them other than the weight of the surfaces). Tim
  4. Hi Jeremy. The Jett (in this plane) unloads to around 26,000 - 27,000 rpm in the air, but typically uses a slightly larger prop (7.4 x 7.6) while the Nelson unloads to around 28,000 rpm on a smaller prop (7.4 x 7.5). But these figures can change by individual engine setup (head and sleeve shims) and prop. They run on 15% nitro. Tim
  5. Hi Jeremy. I don't know of any particular symptoms to look for to see if a servo is "bad" (or not suitable for using in a plane), but anything out of the ordinary and don't use it...buzzing when not under a load, any "chattering" or erratic movements, not returning to center (given some degree of tolerance depending on the quality of servo - a less-expensive, bushed servo may not center as well as an expensive, digital, ball bearing servo), the servo getting warm, anything unusual and don't chance it. If a servo is suspect, I'll grab the servo wheel or arm and move the servo with my radio to see how it behaves. This isn't scientific, you have to use your own judgement. I've used Tactic TSX20 or TSX25 servos in several recent projects at work and all seem to perform well. They're a nice little bargain servo that is a good replacement for a standard-size servo in like a .25 - .40-size plane. Now that I think of it, we used them and recommend them for the Kaos .60 ARF. Tim
  6. Here's what I'm working on presently. Can't have enough pylon planes, right!? This is an Advanced Pylon Products Sweet 1 Q40 (Quarter 40) pylon racer. I'm using a Jett brand QM 40 engine (made by Dub Jett in Texas). Comes with a fiberglass fuselage with some carbon fiber reinforcement, molded hollow wing and horizontal tail surfaces, belly pan, engine cover and modest hardware package. I'll probably paint the fuselage, but just use some vinyl graphics on the wing...
  7. Hey Jeremy. I've done the re-cover on several ARFs that were already MonoKoted. I just carefully peel it off without any heat. When warm, the pigmented adhesive is softer and more likely to adhere to the balsa. Occasionally, some color does remain on the structure, but it usually sands off easily with like 320-grit. I then resand the entire structure with 400-grit. Any faint remnants of pigment will be concealed by the new covering anyway (unless it's a light color over a dark color). CA debonder is great for wiping away MonoKote pigmented adhesive, but mainly on MonoKote. On balsa it may just dissolve deep into the balsa, then be impossible to remove. Here's a link to a Part 1 (of four or five ) of a blog I entered in RC Groups with a re cover I did a couple years ago. Therein are some pics of covering removal... Tim
  8. Thanks Jeremy.
  9. I can't find anything about the mall show anywhere (here, or in the newsletter - maybe I'm looking in the wrong place). I signed up to work a couple hours today, but which mall entrance shall we use that will be closest to our display? I don't want to carry my planes all the way through the mall if I don't have to. Thanks! Tim
  10. A few have expressed interest about my trip to Phoenix to compete to compete in the Q40 Classic pylon race that took place February 25 – 26. Below is a link to the web page in the NMPRA (National Miniature Pylon Racing Association) web site where I posted a report with images. When you get to the page you may have to scroll down a little to get to my entry. Tim
  11. If the links to the web pages for further reading in the “Calculating true C-rating” document don’t work, you can copy the link, open another internet tab, then paste the link in the space for the address. Tim
  12. Hello Scott. I wanted to answer your Kunai inquiry immediately, but do not have access to my email account right now, so I'll try here! My favorite battery for the Kunai is the GPMP0836 3S 1200mAh 30C. It is narrower than others and fits the Kunai well: Though the Star connector on the battery is a T-style, it is slightly bulkier than a Deans Ultra, so if you get a Kunai and find fitting the connector under the canopy a bit of a nuisance you could just replace it with a Deans. Regarding modifications, I prefer to fly mine stock. There are several guys modifying theirs with "faster" motors and batteries, but these also require reinforcement which also makes the Kunai heavier. It will fly faster which is fine, if that's your thing. Me, I just like to putt around the sky! ;-) Seriously, the Kunai is plenty powerful and maneuverable for me the way it is. If you've ever seen me fly one (like this past Sunday), that's stock, out-of-the-box. But the Kunai thread over in RC Groups is VERY active with plenty of tips for modification if you so choose. Here's a link to the thread: Let me know if you have any more questions! Tim
  13. As we all know the weather was unseasonably BEAUTIFUL last weekend. I snagged a couple photos and just thought I'd post them here. Next time I'll do better (and take more images).
  14. Hi Mike! Your discharge device looks pretty cool - very handy! But how long would it take to discharge a battery @ 50 Ohms? Well, I Googled up Ohm's law again: I think we need to find the current to calculate the length of time to discharge... I = V/R where I = the current, V = voltage and R = the resistance... I'll use a 3S battery as an example. I = 11.1V / 50 Ohms I = .222 A So, a 50 Ohm resistance to a 3S battery puts a load of .222 Amps. Now we can calculate how long it will take to discharge a battery. In our 3S battery example, let's also assume it's a 2200mAh capacity and is discharged to the recommended 3.7V/cell (which also correlates to 20% capacity remaining). 20% capacity remaining of a 2200mAh battery = .2 x 2200mAh = 440mAh. 440mAh = .44Ah Then, a .44Ah / .222A = 1.98h @ 50 Ohms resistance, it would take about two hours to fully-discharge a 3S 2200mAh battery that has been flown down to typical, recommended discharge (that's provided all my math and units are correct!). Tim P.S. Here's a link to a calculator for Ohm's law: For our needs, you input the voltage (I used nominal voltage (3.7V) for a 3S battery (11.1V)) and resistance (50 Ohms for your discharge tool). Click "Calculate" and it will show the current (I).
  15. During my presentation about LiPo batteries at the February business meeting at Lucille's, the question was posed how to dispose of Lipo batteries. I wasn't able to provide a definitive answer, so I did a little research and found this article about preparing (fully discharging) LiPo batteries for disposal: Chris (aka TJinGuy) is acknowledged as a highly-credible source about LiPo batteries and the like. I'm sure you'll agree when you start reading. :-) As for actual disposal, the jury may still be out on this one. Here's one discussion thread I found on the subject: Tim