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JShumate last won the day on July 4 2017

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  1. Editor Gerry Yarrish starts his Video How To Series for Wing Repair with this Part 1 installment. Stay tuned as Gerry will be posting more videos showing his repair techniques. The post How To Video Series — Wing Repair Part 1 appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  2. JShumate

    Really Big Bücker Jungmeister

    Helmut Müller’s 85% scratch-built Bücker looks like it could carry a small person! The 17.5-foot-span model weighs in at 286 pounds and is powered by a Hirth 521cc 2-stroke (intended for an ultralight!) turning a Fiala 60 x 20 wood propeller. The model uses industrial-quality Tonegawa Seiko servos, a redundant radio system and a dual-ignition starter. Helmut glued and sewed the Seconite covering (like that used on some man-carrying planes) that replicates the plane that Romanian captain Alex Papana flew at the Olympic Games in 1936 (the first and last time that flying was an Olympic sport). Thanks go to RC Media World for sharing this great footage from the Megaflugshow in Göttingen, Germany. The post Really Big Bücker Jungmeister appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  3. Many people today who are involved professionally in aviation, both manned and unmanned, started as hobby flyers of model aircraft. And many of these professionals still fly as hobbyists in addition to their professional capacities. Section 336 is the part of the FAA Act that allows hobbyist and recreational model aircraft flights without the burden of pilot licenses and technological mandates. It’s a safe tradition that has been around for many decades, and is now under attack by Silicon Valley and K Street Lobbyists. Google is Lobbying Congress For an Airspace “Land Rush” Premised on Kicking Out the Natives – By Over-Regulating Model Aircraft That’s right- some, including subsidiaries of Google, are petitioning Congress to eliminate the Special Rule for Model Aircraft – also known as Section 336. In my opinion, it’s rent-seeking behavior looking for special treatment and special access to the public’s skies, by forcing unreasonable and unnecessary regulations like pilots licenses and technology mandates on hundreds of thousands of safe, proven model aviators. It’s a land rush premised on kicking out the natives. The AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) is the national organization of over 80 years that has sought to educate and protect hobbyists. If you are a member, use this link to let your United States Senators and Congressional Representatives know that you want to preserve Section 336 http://www.oneclickpolitics.com/messages/edit?promo_id=4225 If you are not an AMA member (and even if you are), please consider writing and calling your United States Senators and Congressional Representatives to let them know that you want to preserve Section 336. Act now, or it will be too late. Act Now to Preserve Section 336 and Model Aircraft in Your Own Way BY JEFFREY ANTONELLI The post Act Now to Preserve Section 336 and Model Aircraft appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  4. So my Fokker Triplane had been finished for a few weeks and the airplane had flown several times without any problems. But there is that big issue of an empty cockpit. So, I converted my old Mini-Me 1/3 scale pilot figure into a WW1 leather helmet and goggles guy with a great set of cloths including a great leather jacket and some black trousers. With a proper Triplane driver, I still needed to make the guy a good looking (and removable) pilot seat. Where to start? Go to a dollar store and look for some woven straw place mats or a cheap straw hat with a wide brim. Cut out a horseshoe shape from some foam poster board and size it for your pilot’s butt. Roll the woven straw material around the poster board and mark for your cut lines. Cut out the material and use some ZAP Goo adhesive and and let dry with some weights added until dry. Cut out some more of the material and glue it to the seat top. For seatbelts I cut some slots in the seat and glue in some Velcro straps. This way the pilot can be secured in place without gluing him in place. To secure the seat in the fuselage I used a spruce crosspiece and a couple hardwood blocks and screws at each side of the cockpit The seat does a great job hiding the radio gear and puts the pilot figure at the proper height so he looks correct during flight. In the back where the seat contacts the aft former, I used some stick-on magnets to make a firm but easy to remove connection. My new Mini-Me looks the part of a WW1 Triplane pilot. His seat is also accurate for that era of aviation. The clothing I used came from Wendy at www.perfect-pilots.co.uk . Strapped in, The seat is now glued to the crosspiece. When dry remove the screws and the seat is easy to remove for access to the radio. Add a couple of scale Spandau machine guns and we’re good to go! Anybody see where Snoopy went with his Sopwith Doghouse?! The post How To Turn a Straw Hat into a Scale Pilot Seat appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  5. Let’s discuss a maneuver called the “avalanche.” You can learn from the fundamentals in this exciting move. For example, I’m sure a lot of you have performed a basic loop. In fact, the loop is the first aerobatic maneuver that many people perform. The avalanche is a basic loop, but has one addition to it. At the top of the loop, the pilot performs a snap roll. FIRST THINGS FIRST When performing a graceful maneuver like the loop, focus your attention on geometry and smoothness. When executing the “loop” portion of this aerobatic maneuver, you want a low-rate setting that has about 12 degrees of elevator deflection, 30 degrees of rudder deflection, 25 degrees or more of aileron deflection and exponential on all surfaces. As a starting place, I recommend you use about 20% of expo and increase it until you are comfortable with how the airplane responds. Keep in mind that adding expo will soften the feel of how your servo reacts around neutral. Let’s now discuss the snap roll. The snap roll rotation should happen relatively fast, and if you find that your model “barrel rolls” around in rotation, you do not have enough control surface deflection and may need different rates on your radio. Most models will snap with about 15 degrees of elevator, 35 degrees of rudder and 35 degrees of aileron throw, but again, values differ from model to model. This serves as an overview, and fine-tuning your model will be up to you. As I mentioned earlier, use exponential and start with a value of about 35% on all control surfaces and then make any necessary adjustments. When I perform a maneuver like the avalanche, I keep my model on my low-rate settings for the “loop” portion of the maneuver. Then, when I want to initiate the snap roll, I switch to my high-rate setting. I perform the snap and flip immediately back to my low-rate setting for the rest of the figure. To simplify matters, I use flight modes, which means that all rates can be found on one switch! AVALANCHE OVERVIEW Until you are familiar with this maneuver, I recommend you climb to an altitude of about 150 feet. Keep in mind, though, that this altitude will vary depending on the size of your model; this starting point is great for an electric model with a wingspan of about 50 inches. Once your altitude is established and your airplane is traveling parallel to the runway, increase the throttle and begin a gradual loop right when the model passes the pilot (for future reference, the pilot’s position is called the “center”). Keeping the same radius, it’s critical to perform a snap roll at the top of the loop. If the loop began immediately after the model passed the pilot, the snap should be performed as the model is inverted over the top of the loop and at center. Once the snap roll is performed, the model continues the second half of the loop and exits at the same altitude at which the maneuver began. Now, let’s simplify the control inputs needed and divide this maneuver into four steps: 1 Begin by climbing to a safe altitude and orienting your model so it’s traveling parallel to the runway. The throttle will vary depending on your model’s power-to-weight ratio and the size of your loop. If your model has a fairly equal power-to-weight ratio, you’ll need to use maximum power, especially if you want to perform a larger loop. Increase the throttle to about 90% for your first attempt, and wait until the model approaches center. 2 If you’re using dual rates, make sure you’re on your low-rate setting. As the model is at center, gently pull back on the elevator control surface to begin the loop. Geometry is the key, and it’s critical to perform a perfect circle. With that being said, you may need to increase your throttle to keep the speed of the model constant. Also, you may need to make various rudder corrections to keep the model at the same distance from you (nine out of 10 times, you’ll need to apply right rudder due to motor torque). Keep the same radius constant throughout, and when the model is almost halfway through the loop, it should almost be at center, but inverted. This is a key moment to flip to your high-rate settings, or what I call my “snap rate condition.” 3 Initiate the positive snap roll by applying full left rudder, left aileron and up-elevator (if performing the snap to the left; otherwise, right rudder and right aileron with up-elevator). After one complete rotation is performed, neutralize inputs and immediately flip back to your low-rate setting and decrease the throttle to about 10% power. 4 Complete the second half of the loop. When the model is 75% done with the loop, it may be necessary to lower the throttle to idle. However, keep in mind that you may need to increase the power again as you are approaching center (the same point at which the maneuver began). Now that you have learned how to properly execute the avalanche, let’s discuss a few key tips. If you are flying in an extreme headwind, you may need to gradually pull the model up to initiate the loop and then pull back harder once it has completed the first quadrant, as the wind may push you toward center faster than anticipated. After the snap is performed, you’ll need to pull a little harder on the elevator until you are about 80% done with the loop. You then ease off elevator to complete the maneuver as the model is directly in front of you. Whether you are flying in a head-wind, which we just described, tailwind, or crosswind, it is critical for this maneuver to be centered and performed directly in front of you. Make all necessary adjustments so the model always remains at the same depth from you and that it reaches the cardinal points. TEXT BY JOHN GLEZELLIS; ILLUSTRATION BY CHROME CITY STUDIOS The post RC Aerobatics: Fly the Avalanche appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  6. JShumate

    Rudder: Use it to Fly Better!

    Actually, pilots should begin their flying careers by using rudder from the very beginning. One of the ways we used to help beginner pilots is by programming in an aileron/rudder mix from the very start. This improves the plane’s performance by eliminating adverse yaw, which is the opposite yaw or skid inherent with aileron deflections on flat-bottom-wing planes, the very ones many new pilots start with. What is important is that adverse yaw grows worse at slower speeds and/or with larger inputs. This is why some pilots, who seem to fly around OK, struggle with controlling their planes during landing. By coordinating rudder deflection with the aileron (rudder moving in the same direction), you prevent the nose from skidding to the left. Adverse yaw is thus prevented; banks and corrections, even rolls, will be smooth and axial, and you will feel more connected to the plane. When a loop-or any maneuver related to one-is performed in a crosswind, the airplane will drift sideways with the wind during the slower portion of the loop. This drift will generally happen as the plane rounds over the top of the loop. Consequently, a loop that was entered on a parallel flight path with the runway will exit downwind-no longer tracking parallel. If you don’t use the rudder, you will have to do a number of corrections afterwards to reestablish the preferred parallel track taken at the start of the loop. To correct cross-wing drift, apply rudder in the opposite direction the wind is blowing. For example, if the crosswind will blow the plane to the left, a right-rudder wind correction would prevent it. Ailerons are for keeping the wings level before and during a loop. Don’t try to correct wind drift by creating a new [wing] deviation using aileron; sideways wind drift is a function of yaw, not roll. The post Rudder: Use it to Fly Better! appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  7. JShumate

    Easy Workshop Tips

    These tips may not change your life, but they may make building and flying RC planes a little easier! Have a tip of your own to share? Send it to us at MAN@airage.com. Hatch Leash A great way to ensure your canopy arrives attached to your plane, rather than flying off one way and the plane going the other, is to use two small pieces of wood from a matchstick or a wooden BBQ skewer. Epoxy one for the inside of the foam canopy and the other for the inside of the fuselage, then wrap a small length of dental floss (which is strong and light) to each piece. Do this before pushing them into the foam while the epoxy is still wet. This system adds minimal weight to the plane, but ensures you won’t end up losing the canopy! The Perfect Building Guide Here is the way to use your old credit cards and build straight at the same time. While building wing panels on plans, you have to ensure the ribs are 90 degrees to the building board. Old plastic credit cards are great building guides as their edges are perfectly square and the corners are rounded so they don’t get glued to the rib during construction. When they get ratty, just throw them away. Custom Sanding Sticks For neat and straight edges on parts I cut for my airplanes, make custom-sized sanding sticks to fit into tight areas. Simply get some stick-on sandpaper (usually for electric sanders) and cut it into strips. Make your sanding stick to fit and then apply the sandpaper. The result is clean edges for a professional-looking job. Quick Connections Even when servo labels stay on, it is much too tedious to plug them all in properly. To solve this, buy several different colors of heat-shrink tubing: 3/8 inch for the female connectors and 1/4 inch for the male. To make it easy to determine the correct polarity, draw dots on the tubing with a felt-tip marker to make connecting them a snap. The post Easy Workshop Tips appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  8. Ziroli Giant Scale Plans offers a very cool accessory for FW-190A enthusiasts. It’s a scale fan/spinner combo that the full scale FW-190A featured. It comes as a “blank canvas” work of art considering the machining required to manufacture. It is a blank canvas as the spinner can be cut to fit a 2- or 3-blade prop and fan/backplate drilled for the motor/engine as required. This article will feature cutting the spinner for a 3 bladed prop and also balancing the entire assembly. The model being fitted with the combo is the Top RC Models 93 inch FW-190A ARF, all composite construction. Motor used is a 100cc equivalent running 12S Lipo’s (two 6S in series). Very nice model for sure. Needs to be seen in person to fully appreciate. The photos and captions will cover the required process. Unit as delivered from Ziroli. Front view. Combo as delivered. Reverse view. Beautiful workmanship. First thing to do is to establish the blade pattern you are going to cut. I first traced the outline of the spinner on cardstock. Since this is a 3 bladed prop, I laid out 120 degree markings. Use a protractor as this needs to be accurate. Mark the spinner at the three layout points. Since there is a lip on the fan portion, you must account for that in the overall height of the relief cuts. Lower line is the top of the lip. Upper line is the top of the cut. A circle template is used to mark the spinner for the cut. Use a felt-tip marker for a dark cut line. Once marked, you are ready to make the cuts. I used a Dremel Tool with dentist drill. Cut appears rough, but that’s OK. Main point is to remove most of the material but not go outside the lines. Minor “slip marks” from the cutter can be easily smoothed out with 320 grit paper. If you have a different or better method to make the rough cuts, go ahead and use that. With one cut made and smoothed out with files/sandpaper, you can see the backplate lip and how the height of relief-cut must take that into account. With the relief cuts made, the 3 blade can be test fit. Looks good so far. You want to make sure the cuts are large enough to allow that the prop does not touch the spinner at any point. Top view to get the cool-factor of the spinner and fan. View of the fan/backplate/prop drilled for the motor bolt pattern. Note the close fit to the cowl. Very neat. After the fan backplate was drilled for the motor bolt pattern, it was run with the 3 bladed prop. Very smooth, but still needed to be balanced with the spinner attached. As you might imagine, the fan really does move a lot of air! Combo on the 100cc equivalent motor. Face-on view. Although not photographed, holes must be laid-out and drilled for the bolts to secure the spinner. I used 8-32 cap screws, but Ziroli’s instructions suggest 4-40’s. I used larger bolts to lower the possibility of stripping out the smaller, finer-thread bolts. Be very exact in placing the bolts on the lip. There is a small margin to get them in the correct place. Too far forward and you hit the backplate base. Too far aft and you miss the spinner. There is a “sweet spot” and you must hit it on the dot. The tapping operation is kinda tricky as the drilled holes are on a “slight angle.” This slight angle is actually required to keep from drilling directly into the backplate base. In the end, I removed the washers under the bolts as they are not required. A drop of blue Loctite on each bolt may be used once you get to the point of actual flight. Also, unless you can cut all 6 bolts to the exact same length, buy some factory-cut bolts form the hardware store, say 3/8” or 1/2” long. This is important for balance. Important to remember, an index mark must be made for later balancing. Be sure to make this AFTER the prop is installed as it may not be able to match up later if you randomly made the marks without the prop bolted up. Trust me, it CAN happen. And remember to make sure you “clock” all future prop holes the exact same way. Once you get the holes drilled and tapped, you need to balance the assembly. This is EXTREMELY important! Be sure to have the spinner and fan matched to the index mark you made previously. Another view of the assembly during the balancing process. Use a good quality precision balancer. Balancing is done as in the previous article I wrote on spinner balancing here on M.A.N. Note the balance rod goes through the spinner. Drilling this hole in the VERY CENTER of the spinner end is a MUST to get the balance correct. From inside the spinner, you must find the center “dot” on the cone and center punch it GENTLY. Then drill it with a 1/16” bit. Once the hole is established, enlarge the hole to 1/8” for the balance rod to pass through. This is a false photo for effect, but shows how the spinner will look when painted black and white spiral added. This pre-painted spinner is from Top RC Models for their FW-190 ARF. This is the real fan/spinner after balancing and painted flat black. Still needs the white spiral. Head on view. Touchdown, extra point scored, game complete, victory! By taking your time, you can do this. But use the old rule of thumb when working on expensive parts – Measure TWICE, cut ONCE! And perhaps the most important thing, wear your safety glasses! Aluminum shards are not as easily removed from the eye as steel ones. Good luck. TEXT AND PHOTOS BY LANE CRABTREE Check out this terrific video of the working motor running at full tilt! Top RC FW-190A Full Power Motor Run from wallace on Vimeo. The post Fitting a Scale Fan/Spinner Combo to a 3-Blade Prop appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  9. JShumate

    Painting a Warbird, Part 4

    In this final installment, Lane Crabtree creates his CARF Models P-51’s Hurry Home Honey nose art, invasion stripes, and engine exhaust stains. In earlier articles, he started by documenting how he primed and painted the silver and olive drab, masked the canopy and created the stars and bars, and then he applied the squadron markings and the checkerboard pattern. For the Hurry Home Honey script “nose art” (left side only), Callie provided a much-needed two-stage paint mask. This is one of the invaluable things paint masks can do for you – artist work. I couldn’t do this in 100 years by hand. Here’s how it works. The first paint mask is laid out on the nose with careful positioning. After sealing the edges and masking off around it as required, paint the base coat of yellow. Once the yellow is dry (remember to wait a LONG TIME) add the second paint mask that covers up most of the yellow and then hit it with the bright red. This will give you a shadow effect around all the letters. You need to use a very light mixture of dish washing soap sprayed under the second masks to slide them around a bit till you get them where you want them. Again, let that dry thoroughly before painting. Remove all the masks and you are done. And use rattle can paint for this as latex just won’t work as well for fear of peeling off when removing the masks. Before I finished the checkerboards, waiting for the yellow to dry, I added the HHH script. Now, I just discovered I have no in-process photos of this! See text for instructions. One of the last things to do on the fuselage is to add the tail numbers. Callie provided paint masks for these also. Just remember to alternate paint colors. On HHH, I discovered on the rudder the 413 on the right side and 586 on the left side were black paint, rather than OD Shade 41. This is where we are so far. Not totally discussed is that I used Matte Polycrylic Water Based Clear coat over the entire fuselage. This protects the paint and gives an overall even sheen to the paint job. This is an optional step – exterior latex house paint by itself has been shown to be very effective on gas powered RC planes of all sorts. Suit yourself on this matter. What we have left to do are the wing halves. All the processes are the same as we’ve seen so let’s walk thru the parts without all the individual steps. Wing has been primed on both sides, bottom painted silver, top painted OD shade 41, and the invasion stripes applied. Nothing really different than the fuselage. Just be sure to check that your stripes are parallel to the wing root. Then after the white has been done, lay the black stripes out parallel to the entire layout. I seem to recall all the stripes were 4 inches wide, times five, equals 20 inches. This agrees with the full scale layout very closely. Top of wing is OD Shade 41 and the white wing flash is added. The white flash meets the inboard white invasion stripe on the bottom wing leading and trailing edges. Another note, I left all the control surfaces on the wing and fuselage while painting. I didn’t see the need to remove them for painting. I was able to extend the flaps as shown above to get paint where it was needed without removal. Again, let’s cut to the chase and see the final throwdown – Stars and Bars. One thing I discovered AFTER painting is that the top-side STAR is supposed to be split dead-center on the small fairing in front of the aileron. Ooops! Just an inch or so too far inboard. Bottom of wing is OK. No warbird is complete without victory markings! Callie provided these as well. I sent her an E-Mail suggesting that the spacing could be tightened up both horizontally and vertically. Other than that, worked out very well. Also note, the small nomenclatures are shown here – dry rub-ons. They need clear-coating after application or they will flake off. One more paint mask from Callie is the air intake screen This is a one-step mask I painted black. I used this because I didn’t open the actual holes in the fuselage. I needed them closed to force cooling air past the engine cooling fins. Those screws ahead of the screen got painted later with silver. In fact, I painted a slew of screws in several colors to use for extras in case I lose a few along the way. One of the HARDEST parts of this paint job to get correct were the exhaust stains from the mighty Rolls Royce V-12! I’ll show a couple of early attempts before showing the final version. This is one area that Cassie doesn’t supply masks for. You are going to have to be an artist for a little bit. But, my advice here is to seal the fuselage paint beforehand with Polycrylic and then use acrylic paints from Hobby Lobby or some other craft store for the exhaust stains. Purchase some black, white, bone white, yellow ochre, burnt umber, etc, that you will need to mix the colors with. By sealing the fuselage with Polycrylic first, if you mess up, the acrylics can be wiped clean with a wet washcloth, and you can have another go. After 5 tries, I got it right on the 6th! Whew. The hardest part on the stains is using restraint and GOING LIGHTLY. You can look at any warbird and see that they are almost transparent. It is the natural tendency (for a non-artist) to make them dark and heavy. Looks kinda cool, but more like a cartoon than real-world. You can see some of my attempts below. I have to give many thanks to the guys at Radio Control Scale Builder web site for their comments on getting the stains correct. They were kind, but relentless till I got them correct! haha. Once the exhaust stains were satisfactory, I clear coated them to seal the water colors. Assortment of acrylic paints from your local craft store are great for painting exhaust stains and pilot figures. Buy a color wheel to help in mixing your own colors. I felt a warbird needs some exhaust stains so I laid some tape down to get the flow correct. I didn’t leave the tape for painting, but traced some light pencil lines to go by. One of the first attempts. I like it. But very cartoonish. Too heavy. Flow line is very close to correct, however. Also note the exhaust stubs. The first one is just rusty looking, but the next 5 get that whitish grey lead coating. A little better effort, but still too heavy. Not transparent at all. I like this one too; RCSB guys … not so much. Ha. Finally got it right! You have to be very light with the airbrush to do it correctly. It is easy to get carried away. The final exhaust stain version used two colors, a light charcoal-black and then a light greyish color. You have to “waft” the paint on. Of course, these water-colors (acrylic paints) do not come ready-mixed in the lights and darks you see here, you have to mix them up yourself. It’s not that hard to do. Experiment on a cardboard box before actually painting them, not only to check the colors, but to set your airbrush flow rate and air pressure. Opposite side. Pretty close to the left side, but slightly different as the real deal would be. That’s a brief run-thru of the paint process for Hurry Home Honey. Many more hours can be spent weathering and detailing a warbird like this one. But to use a quote attributed to Dave Platt, “You never really finish a scale aircraft, you just quit working on it.” Like most projects, glad this one is behind me but looking forward to the next one! TEXT AND PHOTOS BY LANE CRABTREE The post Painting a Warbird, Part 4 appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  10. Decades after it sunk, the battleship Tirpitz is still stunting the environment! By David Grossman The scars of World War II are still visible today. A new study out looks at how Nazis warped Norwegian trees with poisonous gas to mask one of the largest battleships built for the conflict. Launched in 1939, the Tirpitz was one of two Bismark-class battleships built by the Nazi Kriegsmarine shortly before World War II began. Like many of the Nazis military projects, Bismark-class ships were built to intimidate. With an overall length of 823 feet (251 meters), over 2,000 Nazi sailors, a main battery of 8 15-inch guns in 4 twin turrets and enough space to carry four planes, the ship was hard to miss. The celebration of the Tirpitz being launched in 1939. —Getty Images Hugo Jaeger After the Tirpitz was commissioned into the war in 1941, Kriegsmarine Grand Admiral Erich Raeder decided that it be sent to Norway, which had been successfully occupied by the Nazis the previous year. The Tirpitz was sent to act as a “fleet in being,” a singular force that is so powerful it can influence enemies by its mere presence. The goals of the Tirpitz was to prevent an Allied invasion, disrupt British and Soviet supply lines, and keep Allied forces preoccupied with its possible location. But the challenge of hiding the massive ship in Norway’s fjords was a difficult one, compounded by a persistent Norwegian resistance movement transmitting information about the Tirpitz whenever they could. The ship’s crew would chop down trees and place them aboard the Tirpitz to try to camouflage it and then, as discussed in a new German-American-Norwegian study, released chlorosulphuric acid to create an artificial fog to further mask its location. Claudia Hartl, from the Johannes Gutenberg University in Mainz, Germany, was studying the growth of pine tress near Alta in western Norway when she noticed something odd: The older trees had no growth rings. Rings can be hindered by severe cold or insects, but Hartl knew of no natural force that could halt a tree’s growth outright. Looking at the war records, Hartl’s trees line up with the Tripitz’s locations. “We think this artificial smoke damaged the needles on the trees,” Dr. Hartl tells the BBC. “One of the trees found had no growth for 9 years. Afterwards, it recovered but it took 30 years to get back to normal growth. It’s still there; it’s still alive, and it’s a very impressive tree,” Dr Hartl says. It took three years and multiple operations, but in 1944 30 RAF Lancaster bombers armed with Tallboy earthquake bombs finally sunk the Tirpitz. The ship took two bombs, suffered internal explosions and soon capsized. After the war, a Norwegian-German salvage operation found the remains. Parts of its metal are still sold today in knives. But while the Tirpitz is long gone, the environmental damage remains. Dr. Hartl believes the environmental damage wrought by the war is still being discovered. “I think it’s really interesting that the effects of one engagement are still evident in the forests of northern Norway more than 70 years later. In other places in Europe, they also used this artificial smoke and may be also other chemicals. So perhaps you can find similar patterns and effects from World War II,” she tells the BBC. The war has made itself felt in other ways in recent years, like when a woman relaxing by the Elbe last year accidentally picked up some white phosphorus. The post How the Nazis’ Largest Battleship Is Still Affecting Norway Today appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  11. A longtime competitor at Top Gun, Dino Di Giorgio from Fort Pierce, FL, will be competing with his new Japanese Mitsubishi A6M Zero in the Pro Prop class. His Top Flite Zero has all-wood construction and comes covered in Monokote. It has an 86-inch wingspan, weighs 26 pounds and is powered by a DLE 61cc gas engine turning a 21×10 3-blade prop. It is equipped with a J-Tec muffler. Down and Locked retracts and a Futaba 18SZ radio with S3071 S-Bus servos round out the Zero. Dino scuffed the covering finish and repainted the plane using Tamiya paints. Dino has been flying RC since 1977 and started flying at Top Gun in 1992. Dino will also be flying his 118-inch-span Zero, (built from a Meisterscale kit) in the Unlimited class. Powered by a Moki 150 radial engine and turns a 24-inch Solo 3-blade propeller. The post Road to Top Gun — Dino Di Giorgio and his Mitsubishi A6M Zero appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  12. The judge directed attorney O’Grady to recall his witness. As Herring lowered himself into the witness chair, the two-surface model in hand, O’Grady asked for authorization to have the exhibit entered into evidence and summarily tagged. Hesitant to handle the delicate contraption, the court clerk came over to the witness stand to tag the exhibit. In the meantime O’Grady provided Judge Sawyer with the plaintiff’s explanation… “Your Honor, Mr. Herring wishes to demonstrate the operation of his original 1892 two-surface machine—” “Objection, Your Honor!” Robbins cried. “The witness is trying to turn this courtroom into a three-ring circus!” “Your Honor,” O’Grady continued, “Mr. Herring believes strongly that a short demonstration flight will illustrate the culmination of his extensive research during the early 1890s.” “The defense objects!” Robbins shouted. “There is no plausible reason to disrupt this proceeding. Moving outdoors for such nonsense is—” “Excuse me,” O’Grady interrupted. “Mr. Herring is prepared to demonstrate his apparatus within the confines of this very courtroom!” The court clerk broke the ensuing silence by sheepishly announcing, “Plaintiff’s exhibit number has already been entered, Your Honor. Perhaps a brief demonstration might be in order—” Ignoring the clerk’s suggestions, Judge Sawyer wondered aloud as he peered at Herring’s age-yellowed contraption. “Mr. Herring, this is a courtroom, not an exhibition ground. Should your apparatus crash or stumble out of control… things may be broken! What say you, sir?” “With all due respect to the court and its furnishings, the apparatus weighs a mere eight ounces – half a pound. It proceeds slowly through the air and will require but 15 or so seconds of the court’s time. I have prepared this historic machine to once again fly in the belief that a single demonstration may well substitute for many tedious words of summation.” Shuffling his notes for several seconds, Sawyer raised his hands as if surrendering. “Very well, Mr. Herring. The court will allow you to show off your device. However, if things go awry there will be no excuses and certainly no second chances. Objection overruled. Proceed.” Standing to the jury side of the witness chair, Herring took one last look at the machine’s cruciform tail adjustments before removing the safety pin. Holding the fusee pulley securely between the thumb and forefinger of his left hand, Gus turned toward the clerk’s desk 20 feet away, and motioned to the man to stand clear. Appearing calm and unconcerned, Herring gently pushed the model forward with his right hand, while simultaneously releasing his grip on the fusee. Immediately, the twin, 16-inch propellers began spinning in opposite directions, thrusting the machine into its pre-determined turn to port. Traveling at about 10 feet per second, it flew over the front edge of the clerk’s desk and toward the massive glass chandelier in the spectator’s section. At first, Herring thought that the model would again strike the fixture, but to his relief it passed behind the ornate lamps, flying majestically over the head of a smiling Chloe, who was seated two rows behind. Continuing its gradual arc, the model traversed the extreme rear of the room before entering the empty seating area behind the plaintiff/defendant tables. Within a foot of the ceiling, the gossamer-like model sailed steadily over the defendants, at which point the propellers abruptly stopped turning. Three additional seconds and 20 feet of powerless gliding placed the old model directly above Herring, who calmly plucked it from midair. To the astonishment of most in the courtroom, Herring sat complacently in the witness chair… with his legs crossed! Demonstration complete, a stunned silence ensued as observers contemplated what had just transpired. Without any prompting, spontaneous applause broke out in the spectators’ section, where curious visitors and journalists alike had gathered to view the long-awaited civil action trial. Rather than gaveling them into a compliant silence, the smiling judge also began to clap – a signal that others might join in if they so pleased. The entire courtroom – with the exception of the defendants – celebrated what they considered to be an extraordinary accomplishment. If you enjoyed this excerpt, pre-order the ebook for just $1.99 at DaveGierkeBooks.com. Hall of Fame recipient Dave Gierke’s lightly dramatized biographical novel is based on the brilliant but unrecognized American aviation pioneer, Augustus Moore Herring. Gierke states that unlike the Wright brothers, Herring believed that flying models were useful for developing full-size, man-carrying aeroplanes. During the 1890s Herring designed, built and flew many gravity-powered gliders and twisted rubber-powered craft. In 1902, he engineered and fabricated the world’s first practical internal combustion model airplane engine, which he used to power a successful free-flight model in January of 1903; this served as the basis for Ray Arden’s first engine in 1907. The post To Caress the Air: Augustus Herring and the Dawn of Flight appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  13. JShumate

    Painting a Warbird, Part 3

    Lane Crabtree has been detailing how he painted his CARF Models P-51. He started by documenting how he primed and painted the silver and olive drab, and last week he masked the canopy and created the stars and bars. In this installment, Lane applies squadron markings and the checkerboard pattern. Now comes the Squadron ID alpha-numerics on either side of the S&B. These are what I call single-stage paint masks as they only require one color to complete. Well, one more boo-boo as I missed another photo before painting the black. But you can see the paint masks in place and the masking all around them. Speaking of boo-boo’s, made one here. The paint peeled up with the mask and left a torn edge in a couple of places. No problem. I let them dry thoroughly and touched them up later with a paint brush. But, like I recommend, remove the masks CAREFULLY and save yourself some touch-up work. See, no big deal. Peeling problem solved. Jumping ahead here, but a view of the progress and with the rudder painted Identification Yellow MS 33538 and with horizontal tails painted with white flashes. The rudder on the CARF P-51 detaches easily with a long rod hinge pin. So I painted it off the model to save masking work. One item I left till this time is the overlap of the OD Shade 41 on the fuselage wing fillet. Required some careful layout of the masking tape and full masking of the model. I even used an old towel to mask the aft end. I don’t need to show you the paint with masking still on, you get the idea. But here’s the final result of painting the wing fillet. Take your time while masking and you will have a smooth line from fore to aft. White flash on the wing matches up with the invasion stripe on the wing bottom. A little out of sequence, I admit, since we haven’t discussed painting the wing yet. Now to one of the most difficult parts of the whole paint job – the checker board. Callie included a paint mask for this, but I must admit I couldn’t make any sense of how it was supposed to work. So, I went “old school” and laid it out with a divider, scale, fine line felt marker, and some kevlar fishing line. One of the difficult things to do on a round fuselage nose is making the lines vertical all the way around. To do this, I made the base color (yellow) about 4 inches wide fore to aft, measured off the flat spot on the nose. The kevlar line came in handy again for marking around the bottom of the nose. After this, I masked off the rest of the fuselage. For this job and the spinner as well, I used rattle cans (Valspar spray paint) of bright yellow and bright red. One problem you need to be aware of is that this paint needs about a week to dry to the point you can mask over it. Masking too soon will cause the paint to mush and you’ll have to sand it all off and begin anew. If you can place the model outside, safely, for a few hours each day, higher temps will cure the paint faster. I put the fuselage in the camper shell on a warm day to act as an incubator to speed things up. It worked. I’ll skip the masking as we’ve covered that enough. But, you can see that the paint line is near perfectly vertical. Let this dry a LONG TIME – a week at least. Paint dry. Now, the hard part. To make this look correct, you need a photo of your prototype aircraft. On HHH, the checkers start and end with specific colors around the header manifolds. And the aft checkers are slightly less wide than the front ones, for some reason. Use your dividers to gage the width of each checker until you get a width that makes equal spaces all the way around the nose. Alternating the checkers, mask off the front and rear rows with Green Frog Tape. I marked them to keep them straight in my head. The ones marked yellow will remain yellow when the masking tape is removed. This is important to keep the colors in the correct order. Once the tape is down tight, and you have double checked it, hit it with the bright red rattle can. Another view of the checkers before painting. It’s red all right! With the tape removed, be careful for another week until the paint has dried. Rattle can paint doesn’t tend to peel upon tape removal like the latex. But, when pulling any tape up, always take your time. Another view. One last view. After paint has thoroughly dried, CAREFULLY wet sand with 1000 or 1500 grit paper to remove the masking lines. A nice finishing touch. Remember what I said about letting the yellow dry a week or so? Yep, that’s right, I didn’t do that on the spinner. After masking and painting the yellow and red, I pulled off the tape and the yellow was UGLY. Required sanding off and starting over. Done properly this time, it looks fine. Later, I sanded down the spinner with 1000 – 1500 grit and clear coated with Polycrylic. Despite the fine grain of 1000 – 1500 grit, it cuts very fast with water. So go slowly. Next week, Lane will show how he created the Hurry Home Honey nose art, the invasion stripes, victory markings and the exhaust stains for the replica Rolls Royce V12 engine. BY LANE CRABTREE OPENER PHOTO BY NANCY ABBE; HOW TO PHOTOS BY LANE CRABTREE The post Painting a Warbird, Part 3 appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  14. A regular at the annual Top Gun Scale Invitational, Carlos Rangel is also known as “the guy who builds all-aluminum airplanes”. This year Carlos is again competing with his impressive 30% scale Sonex and will be flying in the Pro-AM Propeller class. The Sonex Carlos is modeling is a single place home-built, experimental E.A.A. aircraft and his model is completely detailed inside and out. The cockpit is fully appointed and has a functional hinged canopy. For the airframe, there no RC model building techniques used. His 30% Sonex is build entirely out of aluminum using the same building techniques as used to produce the full size aircraft using with factory drawings (kindly provided to him by Sonex Aircraft Company. It is an accurate duplicate with each skin panel and rivet line reproduced exactly to scale. All the internal structures are also duplicated just like the real thing. Carlos says it took him many hours to design and build it. He uses aluminum sheets from 0.008- through 0.040-inch thickness depending on the stress level, and uses solid rivets. These vary from 3/64- through 3/32-inch diameter. Carlos commented that the small rivets are very expensive so he is very careful while shutting and bucking them into place. And much care is taken to avoid “smiles” and “tipping”. For power, Carlos chose a ZDZ 50cc engine, and he is using a JR 11XG DMSS radio system. The only RC products used are the radio gear, engine and propeller. Everything else was custom built by Carlos. Photos by Carlos Rangel & David Hart The post Road to Top Gun — Carlos Rangel and his 30% Scale All-Aluminum Sonex appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  15. JShumate

    Mastering the tailslide

    A typical tailslide begins from upright level flight parallel to the runway. The pilot then applies throttle and performs a 1/4 loop to enter a vertical up-line. After the vertical line is established, the pilot gradually pulls the throttle back to idle. The aircraft will slow down and eventually will come to a stop. At that point, the pilot will either apply either full up-elevator to perform a “wheels down” tailslide, or push full down-elevator to perform a “wheels up” tailslide. To perform the “wheels down” tail-slide, simply apply full up-elevator when the model begins to slide back. This will make the model fall with the wheels pointing towards the ground. If you want to perform the “wheels up” tailslide, apply full down-elevator when the airplane begins sliding back; this allows the airplane to fall over with its wheels pointing toward the sky. In competition aerobatics, the distance that the airplane must fall backwards must only be a visible amount. Also, when the aircraft slides backwards, it will often “pendulum” past the vertical after falling through. This “pendulum” effect is completely normal and should not be considered a downgrade. While this may seem like a fairly simple maneuver to execute, it takes a lot of practice to perform consistently. Also, different factors exist that will make this maneuver more challenging to perform. For example, if wind is present, it becomes more difficult for the model to slide backwards while holding the vertical up-line. The model may want to angle itself into the wind. If you find that after performing this maneuver a few times, you’re having difficulty getting the aircraft to slide back, you may need to move the center of gravity back (make the model more “tail heavy”). However, always remember to add tail weight in moderation, as an extremely tail-heavy model can become very unstable in conventional flight. DOWN TO BUSINESS The tailslide shown here is a wheels-down version and is being performed parallel to the runway, from left to right. While flying parallel to the runway and making sure that your wings are level, increase the throttle to full power. If your airplane does not have a great power-to-weight ratio, pull into the º loop gently to establish the vertical up-line. The length of the vertical up-line is entirely up to the pilot. However, keep in mind that larger maneuvers often look better than smaller ones. Also, the length of up-line varies depending on your aircraft’s size. Regardless, keep in mind that you may need to apply various rudder corrections to keep the model tracking on a perfectly vertical up-line. Begin pulling the throttle back until the airplane comes to a stop. If the airplane is on a perfectly vertical up-line, the aircraft will begin to fall backwards. With the “wheels-down” tailslide, you apply full up-elevator to guide the model’s tail back and away from the vertical down-line. After the aircraft rotates its nose will fall forward. When it nears the vertical down-line, release all elevator input. The length of the vertical down-line should to be the same length as the vertical up-line. To exit the maneuver, begin the final º inside loop by applying up-elevator and make sure that its radius is the same as the entry radius. As the model nears horizontal upright flight, increase power to keep the airspeed constant. Even though the fundamentals of performing the tailslide are fairly easy, depending on the wind conditions, this maneuver can be challenging. Don’t become discouraged if you cannot perform this maneuver during your first few attempts. Always practice, and if you still find difficult to perform, gradually add some tail weight and take a closer look at your aircraft’s control setup. Until next time, safe flying and always remember to have fun! The post Mastering the tailslide appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article

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