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Grandview Burial Notice

In order to maintain good relations with Grandview Cemetery directly to the west of the flying field, there is to be no model flying at the CCRCC model air park during funerals that are taking place with the exception of SMALL, LOW SPEED electric powered aircraft. These small aircraft must remain within the bounds of the field.  I will do my best to keep this page up to date with notices I receive, but the list posted at the clubhouse should be checked before flying for more current updates.

Friday 1/18/19 - 11 AM

Saturday 1/19/19 - 1 PM

Saturday 1/19/19 - 2 PM

Stop flying 15 minutes before the burial time. If possible, visually check 45 minutes after burial starts to insure it is actually over.

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AMA’s Response to FAA Proposed Rulemaking

The Academy of Model Aeronautics leadership team is hard at work making sure lawmakers in Washington, DC, will ensure that AMA members will continue to legally fly RC aircraft. It is so important that the RC modeling community has a strong voice in Washington! Here’s what the AMA has to say about the FAA’s proposed rulemaking:   Chad Budreau, Executive Director at the Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA), the world’s largest community-based organization whose members fly model aircraft for recreational and educational purposes, today issued the following statement in response to the FAA’s notice of proposed rulemaking on the Operation of Small Unmanned Aircraft Systems over People and advance notice of proposed rulemaking on Safe and Secure Operations of Small Unmanned Aircraft Systems. “The proposed rulemakings on flying over people, night flying, and safe and secure operations are a step toward opening up the airspace for more commercial UAS operators. For model aircraft hobbyists, however, we do not anticipate these rules will have a significant impact on our existing guidelines for safe and responsible operation. “Model aircraft flights over people are currently not allowed under AMA’s community-based safety guidelines. We believe this is a sound and proven safety guideline for all recreational UAS operators. At the same time, we understand that some commercial applications present the need for UAS to fly over people for effective and efficient operations. We believe these operations should be allowed, provided they can be done safely and any potential risk to people on the ground is appropriately mitigated. “In addition, AMA’s safety guidelines allow night flying as long as a lighting system that provides the pilot with a clear view of the model’s attitude and orientation at all times is in place. We believe this policy continues to make sense and, at first glance, is similar to what the FAA is proposing. “AMA’s safety guidelines also address several of the questions raised in the ANPRM for Safe and Secure Operations of Small UAS. For example, according to the safety guidelines, model aircraft are not allowed to be operated closer than 25 feet away from an individual except for the operator, with few exceptions. AMA also has varying guidelines for model aircraft with different capabilities. “Lastly, and perhaps most importantly, AMA recognizes that one of the FAA’s top priorities is to put remote identification rules in place to better facilitate the integration of UAS into the nation’s airspace and address security concerns. We continue to ask for FAA collaboration in adopting remote identification requirements that reflect the operational use of UAS – model aircraft, under AMA’s safety programming, pose no new risk to the airspace, therefore the remote identification rules for model aircraft operations should be more flexible.” In 2016, AMA President Rich Hanson participated in FAA’s Micro UAS Aviation Rulemaking Committee, which made recommendations on the regulatory framework for small UAS flights over people. At that time, we expressed some concerns about allowing recreational UAS flights over people primarily because of safety. In addition, we were concerned that the public would be sensitive to drones flying over their heads – concerns that are still valid today. AMA’s full safety guidelines are available here. The post AMA’s Response to FAA Proposed Rulemaking appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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JShumate

JShumate

 

Making RC Brass Fittings — Saving Time and Effort

Bracketry is an old term referring to making small brass brackets for scale model airplanes. Mostly for attachment points where you need a solid hard-point for the attachment of wing struts and rigging wires for biplanes and other wire braced airplanes. For the longest time, this was all done by hand, using fine-toothed coping and hack saws, files and more recently, Dremel Moto-Tools with grinding bits and cutoff discs. Once the flat layout part has been cut to shape, it is sanded and filed smooth, drilled and bent to shape. Well, the newest technique is milling with precision CNC systems and this really speeds the process along. When you want to make brackets, first you have to figure out what it is going to look like and today we draw with CAD, then print out the drawings and transfer the shape to your brass sheet material. This is typically 1/16 inch thick (0.0625 in.), and the old fashioned way is to use a dykem layout fluid to coat the metal and use a sharp fine point scribe to mark the cut lines. Today a wide tip Sharpe pen can do the same thing. This process is much more precise than trying to draw with a pencil the cut and trim lines on the shiny surface of brass (or steel) sheet metal. With bench top hobby grade CNC 3-axis milling machines like the 2-420 from Stepcraft, you can save lots of time and effort after the drawing stage. Depending on the size of your brackets, you can select the proper double or single flute milling bit and produce the parts with great accuracy. The trick is to figure out the speeds and feeds that work best with your material. As a stating point for this brass cutting job I used a feed speed of about 10mm (3/8 in.) per second with a 0.010 in. depth of cut. I ran a 2 mm dual flute up cut bit at about 18,000 rpm. This worked fairly good but I increased rpm to about 2,000. Another good thing about using CAD and CNC is that if you need to make adjustments to your drawing designs and multiple parts, it is very easy. The old fashioned way is very laborious and time consuming. Above is the final version of the lower attachment bracket for my Nieuport 24’s V-struts. Here you can see the final parts cut from the mother sheet of brass material. To keep the parts from flying away after the final cut is made, I use V-Carve Pro to make the G-code that runs my Spetcraft CNC. In the process, I add small thin holding tabs placed around the finished part. When the cutting is complete, I used a fine pair of wire cutters to snip the tabs away, similar to how you would remove molded parts from a plastic airplane kit from its molding trees. Here you see the finished bracket soldered to an alignment pin made from a length of music wire. The bracket has been bolted in place on the lower wing of the airplane. The end of the V-strut (made from 1/4 inch poplar), has been drilled to accept the alignment pin. Once everything has been aligned and measured, the pin is epoxied into place in the strut.     The post Making RC Brass Fittings — Saving Time and Effort appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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Snoopy Flies Again!

Watch out Red Baron!!! That’s right, Model Airplane News has redrawn the classic plans for Al Signorino’s 1969 RC Snoopy’s Doghouse and we’ve cleaned them up with CAD. The old original plans were falling apart and so it was time for an upgrade! If you are a Snoopy fan, watch out for the new 50th Anniversary Special Edition plans in an upcoming issue of MAN. For those who know Snoopy’s Flying Doghouse, this is the improved version that was published in 1971 with the extended fuselage box added to re-balance the model so Al could remove some 2 pounds of lead from the model! We’ve very excited! The post Snoopy Flies Again! appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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Joe Ambrose, Horizon Hobby CEO

Joe Ambrose, the CEO of Horizon Hobby and a special friend to Air Age, has passed away. We and many others will miss him deeply. Here is the release from Horizon Hobby. It is with deep sadness we announce the unexpected passing of Joe Ambrose. Joe died in Champaign on January 4, 2019, at the age of 61. Longtime Horizon board member and Chairman of First Busey Corporation, Greg Lykins said, “With Joe’s passing, we have lost an amazing human being and visionary leader. Those of us who have been fortunate enough to know and work with Joe have lost a dear friend and inspiring mentor.” Joe joined Horizon Hobby in 2005 as the Vice President of Distribution. In 2008, Joe was named President and CEO. In 2014, Joe led the buyout of the Horizon ESOP with partners from Armory Capital and Mill City Capital. In 2018, Joe headed the acquisition of Hobbico’s RC assets, in the largest acquisition in industry history. In addition to leading Horizon Hobby, Joe also served as a director of First Busey Corporation, a financial services company, since 1993. Before joining Horizon, Joe practiced corporate law for twenty years in Bloomington, IL. Joe received a BS in Finance from the University of Illinois. He earned a Law Degree from Indiana University and an MBA degree from the Kellogg School of Management at Northwestern University. The executive leadership of Horizon Hobby will work closely with their board of directors during the transition. We appreciate your respect for the privacy of the family during this difficult time. The post Joe Ambrose, Horizon Hobby CEO appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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Amazing Dual Mustang Flight — Fighter formation at its best!

When it comes to giant scale warbird excitement, nothing can beat high speed passes by P-51D Mustangs. And when you have two Mustangs burning up the skies in formation, then you really have a show! These two 20% scale P-51s put on an amazing display at the annual Willis Warbirds Flighter meet in the UK. “Trusty Rusty” piloted by Richard Scarbourough along with his buddy Nigel Scarbrock make it look so easy. Trusty Rusty was scratch built from Ziroli plans and is powered by a 3W 62cc gas engine. Richard’s model comes in at about 32 pounds and is flown with JR radio gear. Believe it or not, Nigel built, painted and setup his “Punkie II” in only four months starting with a 20% scale CARF-Models kit. Powered by a 3W 76cc gas engine, his Mustang has a 102 inch span and weighs 37 pounds.  It includes Sierra retracts, Savox servos and is controlled with a JR 28X transmitter. The beautiful P-51 is painted with a base coat and then with lacquer. The post Amazing Dual Mustang Flight — Fighter formation at its best! appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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New for Premium Members — Giant Scale WW I Nieuport 24

Model Airplane News editor Gerry Yarrish is an active RC model builder and is constantly working on something in his workshop. This workshop update shows some details from his current project a giant scale WW I Nieuport 24 French biplane. Built to a scale of 27.5% Gerry’s N24 is a traditional build albeit a big one. Here are some photos from this past weekend. This past weekend, Gerry assembled and setup all the attachment brackets and hard-points for the Nieuport’s tail surfaces. If you would like to see this and other exclusive online content, Click Here and subscribe to the Model Airplane News Premium website.   The post New for Premium Members — Giant Scale WW I Nieuport 24 appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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Nick Ziroli Jr. — Warbird Pilot!

Everyone who knows giant scale RC, recognizes the name Ziroli and the father and son team of Nick Sr., and Jr. Nick the elder is known for being the father of giant scale Warbirds and Nick Jr., continues to be a driving force in the RC industry. Nick Jr., took over “Ziroli Giant Scale Plans” when his father retired and turned it into a very popular online web company serving the needs of modelers who have (or want to buy) Ziroli plans. Nick also has a large line of RC hardware and products including many molded fiberglass accessories for the warbirds built from Ziroli Plans. Also running his own full-size industrial vacuum-forming company, Nick has been able to enjoy piloting full-size aircraft and warbirds. It is common to see Nick fly his Full-size Stearman PT-17 Navy (N2S-3) and his company plane a Beech Baron twin. You never know where Nick is going to show up! (Above) A shot out of the Miss Hap’s cockpit flying back to Long Island from Maine. When it comes to serious warbirds, Nick has continued in the area of full-scale warbirds with the same passion that has made his company such a success. Associated with the American Airpower Museum in Farmingdale, NY, Nick regulary flies the museum’s B-25 Mitchell medium bomber “Miss Hap”. The museum takes the B-25 to airshows and it goes to NJ for scheduled maintanence. Since it requires a 2-man crew and Nick already had a multi engine rating, things works out pretty good. (Above) Business end of the Miss Hap B-25 Mitchell (Above) Lots of horsepower available with two of these running!   (Above) Miss Hap at the 2010 Dolittle Raider Reunion fly in at the Grimes Field in Urbana, OH. Nick also is checked out and qualified to fly one of the museum’s North American AT-6 Texans, as well as the enormous Grumman TBM Avenger, and the Douglas C-47 cargo plane affectionately called the Gooney Bird. (Above) Nick as Pilot-in-Command of his first Stearman PT-17.   Nick flying his newest Stearman. Nick says that the Grumman TNM Avenger flies like a truck! Flying the AT-6 Texan is a lot of fun and keeps you on your toes during landings. He give rides during the museum’s open houses and airschows. Nick’s newest ride is the impressive Curtiss P-40 Warhawk. It flies as great as it looks! When it comes to knowing how to fly warbirds, both RC and full-size, Nick’s log book is an impressive read for sure!           The post Nick Ziroli Jr. — Warbird Pilot! appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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Master the Precision Roll — Tips for Perfecting this Classic Maneuver

Because it’s used in so many other maneuvers, it’s important to perfect this one and add it to your foundation repertoire. High-speed rolls are generally easier to start with because inertia is a tremendous help. Long, graceful rolls are usually done at medium to high speed to allow inertia to help keep the maneuver axial. Keep the midsection of the roll (when the plane is directly inverted) centered on your position. STEPS TO SUCCESS
1. Begin the maneuver by flying straight and level either into the wind or downwind and then initiate the roll with a little aileron (constantly maintain that throughout the maneuver). 2. As the roll begins, apply rudder to maintain a straight and level heading. (If the roll is to the right, use left rudder and vice-versa.) The maximum amount of rudder will be required when the wing reaches vertical. 3. As the plane continues to roll past vertical, start to ease off on the rudder and begin to apply down-elevator until the plane is inverted. At this point, you should have applied the maximum down-elevator needed to maintain level flight. 4. As the roll continues, begin to ease off elevator and apply the appropriate rudder (at this point, right rudder for a roll to the right) to maintain altitude as the plane rolls around again to vertical. When the wing is in the second vertical position, the plane should again have the maximum amount of rudder, with no elevator input necessary to maintain level flight. 5. The plane will continue to roll over until it is in the upright position. During this time, slowly release the rudder stick so that there is no rudder input when the plane reaches its upright position. Exit at the same altitude at which you started the maneuver. PRO TIPS
Problems can occur if you push too much down-elevator as the plane is inverted. Another frequent error is pushing the elevator stick too soon, while the plane is right-side up, or not releasing the elevator quickly enough as the plane rolls back over.   The post Master the Precision Roll — Tips for Perfecting this Classic Maneuver appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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Scale RC Pilot Figure Painting — Add life to your fighter driver

I put a huge amount of detail in the helmets of my Best Pilots pilot figures because its the topmost thing that’s viewed when your pilot is sitting in the cockpit. Most flight helmets are leather and that’s what’s shown here. The following technique works like magic in replicating leather of all kinds, but it works the best when your pilot figure has leather texture molded in the helmet. I’ve included information here for doing a bang up job on WW2 Navy cloth flight helmets as well. Text & Photos by Lyle Vasser First paint the helmet, earphones and goggle frames flat black. When painting areas like this, it is quicker to paint where the black meets another color with a fine brush and then fill in with a larger brush. Kind of like coloring within the lines in a coloring book. After all is painted flat black and dry we are going to learn a technique called dry brushing. Dry Brushing is a fairly easy technique to highlight raised detail. A medium soft flat brush works perfectly. Mine is all curled out at the ends from use, which actually makes it work better. The trick is to not let a lot of paint come off the brush.  To help this, just barely dip the tip of your brush into the paint. You only want about a 1/16 of an inch of paint on brush. In this instance, the color we are going to paint Sailor’s leather helmet is, uh, MMA Leather. After dipping your brush ever so slightly into the leather paint, brush it on an old clean T-shirt until there is almost no paint coming off the brush. (If you have visitors in your painting area, be sure to use an old T-shirt and not underwear… for obvious reasons.) Lightly whisk the brush across the area to be leather. Magic starts to happen and the black helmet starts to look just like leather. For a darker leather helmet, use less paint and for a more brown leather helmet use more. This technique takes the most time, but it is the most rewarding for the realistic effect achieved. Navy Helmets The Best Pilots Pappy Boyington figure uses an altogether different technique since WW2 Navy/Marine flying helmets were made of cloth not leather. But we do use the Dry Brush technique to get the earcups to look like leather that house the headphones. To get Pappy’s helmet to look real, first paint the cloth area MMA Dark Tan. To bring out the detail, we apply a wash. -Washes- A wash is simply thinned down paint that is very watery. This allows the pigment to run into lower areas like stitches, ridges and seams to make that detail “pop”. I discovered a very useful wash that works a bit better than plain water. We’ll call it Best Pilot’s Wash. To make, mix slowly- no bubbles – 5 parts water and 1 part Future floor polish in an empty medicine bottle or similar container. The Future is a well-used magical liquid used by fine scale modelers for years, and they are still discovering new uses for this liquid in modeling. Check it out online. The stuff is pure acrylic so it mixes great with MMA Acyrlic paint. When used in Best Pilot’s Wash, it tends to let the paint pigment settle into the crevices better and not creep back out like it would if using plain water. That’s my theory anyway. Only drawback, if there is one, is it leaves a shiny surface which will be corrected later with the flat clear coat.         Take a drop or two of Best Pilot’s Wash and add just a tiny drop of burnt umber so that you get a light brown transparent puddle. Take that and wash it over Pappy’s helmet, taking care to make sure it flows in all seams and NOT over the face or skin areas. You gotta be careful with that. I’ve noticed that the pilots in the South Pacific had prominent sweat stains around the goggles on their helmets. Something to do with flying and fighting in a tropical environment tends to make one sweat! To achieve this effect, simply wash a layer of burnt umber and Best Pilots Wash in those areas. Usually about three layers will get the effect. MASTER TIP- Dry Brushing brings out raised areas of detail and mimics highlighting and fading. Washes brings out recessed areas of details and mimics shadows. Drybrush = light, Washes = Shadow To finish the helmet, you can lightly dry brush a bit of light tan on the seams and straps that hold the goggles on. This makes those details stand out realistically and adds to a more complex color variation. Goggles Straps – The goggle straps on Sailor were a bit more complex than his American ally’s. They were part cloth covered elastic and leather. For the cloth part I painted it with MMA Dark Tan and then applied a very thin Best Pilot’s wash with a bit of Burnt Umber.        The leather part of the strap is painted MMA Flat Black and then dry brushed with MMA Leather mixed with a bit of Burnt Sienna for an almost wine color. This gives a nice variation in leathers and is historically accurate.      Pappy’s goggle straps are a base of MMA Flat White with a very then Best Pilot’s wash with a bit of Dark Grey.       The goggle frames are painted with a base coat of Flat Black (don’t paint the lens area yet!) and dry brushed with the same wine-ish color brown.       Pappy’s goggle frames are MMA Neutral Grey dry brushed with MMA Flat Whit HEADPHONES    The headphones are left black. For extra detail, dry brush them lightly with a touch of grey, just the upper area and seams. There are two screws on the headphones, to give them a bit of a metallic look, I touched them with a metallic silver colored pencil. Use metalic enamel paint for other metal parts for a “metalic” look.     Add the “Best Pilots” printed lenses and the job is complete!  Pretty good eh”? (Above) Whether in a Corsair, or in a Wildcat like our lead photo, (both taken at Top Gun!), Pappy Boyington from Best Pilots looks like the real MacCoy! Lyle’s painting techniques and his sculpting talents are simply, well… the BEST. The post Scale RC Pilot Figure Painting — Add life to your fighter driver appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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JShumate

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Giant Scale B-24 Liberator — Heavy Bomber Witchcraft ARF!

The B-24 Liberator Heavy Bomber, named “Witchcraft” is part of the Collings Foundation collection of beautifully restored WW II aircraft, and is the only flying example of the type. It is the last Liberator and the Collings Foundation uses it as an education platform to keep the memories of those lost in WW II alive.
Video courtesy of Collings Foundation.
Now you can own your own B-24 Liberator and best of all it’s an amazing, scale looking ARF with fully built up  wood construction and loaded with details. Thanks to VQ WARBIRDS YOUR WAIT IS OVER! https://vqwarbirds.com/?s=B-24&post_type=product https://www.facebook.com/183245665404085/posts/671290133266300/ With an impressive 110-inch wingspan, this B-24 LIBERATOR ARF is expected to be available at the end of January or in early February 2019! Available in (3) Versions: All Silver/Aluminum Olive Drab upper surfaces/gray lower surfaces Uncovered – Almost Ready to Cover (ARC) https://vqwarbirds.com/?s=B-24&post_type=product Film-covered models feature panel lines, rivets, access hatches and more surface detail featured in the covering details. Models only have Star-n-Bar Insignias applied, all other markings are not. Each color B-24 features different decal sheets. Silver/Aluminum B-24 models come with markings for 90th Bomb Group 320th Bomb Squadron. Olive/Gray B-24 models have a decal sheet for the popular “Witchcraft”.  Models do not have any accent colors applied. The VQ Warbirds B-24 Liberator models come completely covered in either Olive/Gray or Silver/Aluminum; this allows almost unlimited customization of final markings by aircraft owner! We highly recommend custom graphics from Callie Graphics: https://callie-graphics.com/collections/b-24-liberator Comes with Included are:Two-piece wing design for easy transportation, Pilot and Co-Pilot figures, dash, yokes and seat details are included as well as the forward and rear antenna. Radial engine covers, (baffles are also included). The nacelles even feature turbo-supercharger detail molded in! Straight from the factory, the VQ B-24 features prototypical styled Roll-Up bomb bay doors. These can be set open or closed between missions, without needing servos to operate them. If modeler wishes to make the doors servo operated, the modeler may incorporate that feature on his/her own (devices to do this are not included). 16-Piece scale bomb set with bomb racks. Releasing the (16) bombs is easy with 4 micro or mini servos (videos coming soon). All four (4) gun turrets come with scale machine guns, and are operable by servo function straight out of the box! Waist gunner positions even have the B-24 air/wind deflectors and waist guns! A 3-D printed enhanced scale pilot/co-pilot seats are a scale add on accessory that will be available in February. https://vqwarbirds.com/?s=B-24&post_type=product The VQ Warbirds’ B-24 Scale Landing Gear with Scale Wheels by Robart are a work of art! Scale wheel design is exclusive to this model. Robart painstakingly machined inside and outside hubs with great detail not previously seen on any other scale Robart wheels! Even the inside lip of the wheel has grooves machined into the wheel. The main landing gear have the signature shock absorbing Oleo struts with lower side braces and drag braces. Main Wheel diameter is 4.5 inches and 3-inch nose wheel diameter. Gear are available in electric and pneumatic exclusively through VQ WARBIRDS! VQ B-24 LIBERATOR SPECIFICATIONS Wing span 110 in.
Wing area: 1,192.0 sq.in. Length 67 5/8 in.
Height (top of fin) 17.91 in.
Stabilizer span: 26 in.
Weight: 23.37 lbs., (with 4 Saito FA-40 engines, Robart Scale Landing Gear, Scale Wheels, full bomb load, ready to fly.
Engines ———– Saito FA-40 4-stroke or .25-.32 electric equivalent
Propellers ——– 10×7 3 blade, 11×5-11×6 2 blade Retracts (not included): VQ B-24 Scale Retracts and Scale Wheels custom (manufactured by Robart), are available in electric and pneumatic drive versions. Radio Req’d: (7-8) Functions– Rudder, elevator, ailerons, flaps, throttles, retracts, bomb drop, turret movement Servos :(6) Micro servos (2) rudder & (4) throttle if using glow engines and not electric), (12) Mini servos (4) turret, 4 flaps, 4 drop bombs), (5) Standard size servos (2) elevators ,(2) ailerons, (1) nose gear, (metal gear servo with long arm like Hitec HS-5645 MG recommended). PRE-ORDER SPECIAL PRICING $995
Save $200 Special Pricing is Only Available to Pre-Orders https://vqwarbirds.com/?s=B-24&post_type=product   ORDER THE LEGENDARY WORK HORSE OF WWII TODAY **** SPECIAL PROMO ****  
Bring & Fly your completed VQ B-24 at the 31st Anniversary B-17 Gathering/Big Bird Fly-In @ Bomberfield in 2019 and receive a $100 GIFT CARD www.bomberfieldusa.com B-24 Liberator History: The Consolidated B-24 Liberator was designed with the high aspect-ratio Davis Wing. In combat, the wing had drawbacks as far as durability was concerned, but it increased fuel efficiency and gave the B-24 a longer range than the Boeing B-17 Flying Fortress. On December 29, 2014, the Consolidated B-24 Liberator, one of the most famous bombers of World War II, turned 75 years old. More than 18,400 were built, making it the most produced American wartime aircraft. It gained a distinguished war record with operations in the European, Pacific, African and Middle Eastern theaters. The Colling Foundation squadron of WW II warbirds. Courtesy of Collings Foundation. The post Giant Scale B-24 Liberator — Heavy Bomber Witchcraft ARF! appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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MarineJet USA Bench Buddy

Tired of pushing your model off the work bench by accident? Or jury rigging something to hold it or even balance it when it comes time? Turn a small workbench into a big workbench – save room in your shop! The Bench Buddy holds 25% to 60% models by the wing rod only-never touching the model! Holds your model right side up or up side down …High, low or mid wing by the wing rod only! Work on your landing gear, motor mounting unobstructed! Holds your model rock solid while building ,  performing maintenance and even provides a solid up to 40″ tall balance point! 3 position adjustability lets you fine tune the Bench Buddy for your model and height needs. Stop damaging models before they leave your workshop! Get the Bench Buddy and relax! Folds up easy to hang on wall when not in use or is breaks down in seconds to store completely flat. Kit includes 4 pieces of baltic birch wood, 2 pieces of pvc pipe, all hardware.  Click here to order! The post MarineJet USA Bench Buddy appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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New for Premium Members — Build a “one-off” right on your model

When it comes to building scale model airplanes, one task often stops new projects from even getting started: making a scale engine cowl from scratch. To produce a fiberglass unit, you have to build a master plug, lay up a female mold on top of it, and then use the mold to lay up the final cowl with fiberglass cloth and resin. Here’s how I made a “one-off” cowl, and the technique and materials needed can be used for any scale model you want to build. To read this and other exclusive online content Click Here to subscribe to the Model Airplane News Premium website. The post New for Premium Members — Build a “one-off” right on your model appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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Giant Scale Me 262 Swallow

When it comes to giant scale RC aircraft, nothing even comes close to amazing and gigantic aircraft that Ali Machinchy pilots. Here’s a video of Ali’s 1/3-scale Messerschmitt Me 262 powered by twin turbine engines as it performs at the Classic Jets Meet at the RAF Abingdon base In Oxfordshire. With a span of 181 inches  the Me 262 weighs in at 100 lbs. Powered by twin 50 lbs thrust turbines, this amazing WW II Luftwaffe jet fighter was a one off design that was scratch built by John Greenfield in the UK. Ali purchased it and had it re finished, then went on to Fly it for a number of years before he sold it to a collector in the US. As can be seen, the Me 262 has no lack of power and with several video cameras onboard, this video make you feel like you in the air along side the sleek jet fighter.
Video courtesy of Tbobborap1 The post Giant Scale Me 262 Swallow appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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Glow Plugs Explained

With the ever popular use of electric power systems, glow engines have started to before less understood by newcomers to the hobby. Once the mainstay of the hobby, 2-stroke glow engines still have a lot to offer and produce excellent power for their weight. Once you’ve decided to give a glow powered airplane a try, ask for help and always break in your engine  before your first flight. Here are three of the most asked question about glow power. WHY DOES THE GLOW PLUG CONTINUE TO WORK AFTER PULLING OFF THE STARTER BATTERY?
When hooked up to a battery, the glow plug’s coiled-wire element glows bright orange, which creates a temperature in excess of 1,500 degrees F. Once the engine is flipped over, either by hand or a starter, the compressed fuel/air mixture will ignite. If the mixture is right, the engine will become self-sustaining so that when the battery is disconnected, the engine continues to run. Simply put, what happens inside the combustion chamber is that the coiled-wires are heated up from the compression stroke and continue to glow for the next compression stroke, igniting the fuel/air mixture, which in turn, heats up the wire for the next cycle. HOW DOES AN IDLE BAR HELP THE IDLE?
The idle bar is there to keep the glow plug from getting extinguished when the engine is throttled up. When the engine is idling, it has a tendency to pool up some fuel in the crankcase so when the engine is throttled up, that puddle is forced through the cylinder transfer ports. These ports direct the flow right at the glow plug. With an unshielded glow plug, that fuel hits the wire element and instantly smothers it. The idle bar in front of that wire element helps prevent the flow of fuel from hitting the wire and thereby keeps the glow plug lit. If you have a problem with the engine choking out when you go to wide open throttle, you may want to try a glow plug with an idle bar. WHY ARE THERE DIFFERENT GLOW PLUG TEMPERATURE RATINGS?
We have different plug temperature ratings so they can be used to change the performance of the engine depending on the flying conditions. Because our engines have a fixed compression stroke and operating setup, the perfect ignition point will change with different running conditions. Some of these can include compression ratio, nitro or oil contents in the fuel, weather conditions and propeller load. By using plugs with different temperature ratings, we can adjust the ignition point so it’s not too early or too late. Once you find that sweet spot, your engine will produce the best performance. The post Glow Plugs Explained appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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The Right Way to Set Up Servos

Without smooth, non-binding control-surface movements, our planes would be nearly impossible to direct. Linkage systems, including the servo, servo arm, pushrod and control horn, are often overlooked, but they are ...
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Flight Tips for the Knife-edge

Learning to fly advanced maneuvers helps you become a better RC pilot and gives you the ability to perform aerobatics more smoothly and precisely. This video Flight Tip by Jason Benson explains how to master the impressive Knife Edge Circle with 1 1/2 snap rolls move.
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RC Model Airplane Shop Table You can Build Yourself

As a long-time-fan of the PBS show “New Yankee Workshop” I’ve seen quite a few good woodworking projects, but none more handy than the large roll around shop table. I knew I’d have to build it one day when I had the room for it in a workshop I hadn’t even yet built. Sorry to say, the show is no longer being aired, but you can watch most of Norm Abram’s project builds on YouTube, including this shop table. Even though Norm didn’t originate the idea for this table, I want to make sure I give proper credit where credit is due since Norm deserves all the kudos possible. He’s a craftsman’s craftsman – too bad he isn’t into RC Aircraft! As to the real reason I built this table, I am into Giant Scale Warbirds and they take up lots of workbench space. One needs a table of this size to stand the giant scale model on while doing CG balance work and other final details. Since plywood usually comes in 4 x 8 foot sheets, this is about as big as you can make it without getting into some crazy woodworking and having a huge workshop. In fact, I can put two warbird fuselages on this table and work one on either side. It’s huge! Finished moveable shop table of 4 feet by 7 feet work surface. Overall comment here. There are no absolute dimensions to this table. You can make it totally to suit your tastes. This is a guide to getting it done, but only one thing requires any serious consideration – the size wheels or casters you use determine the installation height of the narrow end cross braces because they have to be positioned to allow the table to move when wheels are extended, yet also for the table legs to drop solidly onto the floor with them retracted. Before beginning the job, I’ll mention that this project really requires a fairly powerful table saw of at least 10 inch diameter blade to rip the full 4×8 plywood sheets to width and a 10 to 12 inch cutoff saw to cut the parts to length, but most serious RC guys already have those anyway, so hopefully those won’t be an additional expense. I also used my pneumatic brad nailer which is just about the only way to quickly build wood projects these days. A battery powered drill motor or screw gun will speed up the assembly using drywall screws. A large bottle of yellow carpenter’s glue is needed as well as the hardware pieces (hinges, casters) I will cover along the way. I’ll make a materials list as well. Also, if you view the video, take note that I departed from Norm’s concept of the main work surface substructure. Norm had a very nice shop area and work table already in place with the NYW so he was able to build his table using “torsion box” construction which consists of several cross pieces of plywood with a masonite top and bottom. But you cannot build this torsion box square, true, and flat unless you have a flat surface to work from. And since I refuse to work bent-over off the concrete floor, I bought a 36 inch wide solid core exterior grade door to serve as the heart of the shop table vs building the torsion box. I then mounted that on a set of saw horses and got busy. One more note, take the time to closely inspect the door for flatness both directions before you buy. Keep going until you find one that is as perfect as can be. I watched the YouTube video once more as a refresher and began to visualize the final dimensions of the table so I could know how much wood to buy at the local home store. The material that I chose for the body is 3/4” Birch, fine-lamination plywood that was primed on one side and super-fine bare finish on the other. This fancy plywood was kinda expensive per sheet, and you can make this out of less expensive and rougher plywood, but I felt it just wouldn’t be as smooth and finished in appearance as the more expensive plywood. I was able to find this plywood at Lowe’s but Home Depot may have it as well. Virtually the entire table is made out of this plywood so it won’t go to waste, anything not used can be put aside for future projects. The same fine-lamination plywood is used for the work top, except it’s 1/2″. Solid core exterior grade door, 36” by 6’8” by 1-3/4” on the saw horses. 1×4 white wood side rails being installed to provide a nailing surface for the legs.         The only non plywood parts I used are the 1″ by 4” white wood side rails for the door edging to provide more strength for the legs to nail to – hand pick them for straightness. No need to miter the ends as they won’t be seen on the finished table. Glue, nail, and screw these to the door edges. I used the brad gun to tack the pieces in place and came back with 2” drywall screws to totally secure them in place. From there, then you can rip the legs out of plywood on your table saw. I made my table a bit tall since I am fairly tall and ended up at around 38 inches overall height because I like to stand and work most of the time. But, since this is a custom table, make the legs to suit how you like to work. I wouldn’t mind making another table much lower so I could comfortably work while sitting. Once you rip the 8’ plywood to width for the legs, chop-saw two pieces for each leg, which are glued and screwed at 90 degrees to attach to the white wood 1 by 4’s as shown. For a more professional look, one half of the leg will be about 1 inch less wide that the other. Once glued together, they will appear to be the same width. Cut-to-length plywood panels for the legs. Now is the time to change your mind on the height of the table! Ha. Also, level the exterior door on the sawhorses in both directions now. Next you glue and screw them together. Not impossible to make shorter at this point, but more work – last chance … … because now the leg gets glued and screwed to the white wood side rails. Make sure it’s square and plumb! Press on with the leg construction for 3 more legs, making sure they are as true to plumb as possible. Measure between the opposite legs for squareness as well. Once square, flat, and level with the world, you can add the stringers to the long sides of the table. These are also ripped out of the plywood sheet and positioned at the height that suits you – not too high because you can add a shelf there later for additional storage as I did.
Stringers added to long sides of the table. They give lots of lateral support. Starting to look like something!
Narrow end-of-table cross brace. The installed height of that cross brace depends on what sized wheels you use. Jumping ahead a bit, wheels extended. Wheels must be mounted and hinged to the cross brace to determine placement. Not too high and not too low. Use larger wheels than I used (2”). Wheels in the retracted position. Also seen are the hinged side stops (dropped) that keep the wheels in the extended position. Note the portable 10” table saw which handled the plywood ripping job well. Since we are getting to the point of adding the wheels, I will make a recommendation here and say that LARGER wheels are BETTER. Why, you might ask? Well, very simply, the larger wheels are much easier to move the table with. I used the fully castoring wheels here but you might want to use two fully castoring and two fixed wheels, just depends on how you like to move your table around. I bought these wheels at Lowe’s but most any hardware store will have something similar. Hinges for the wheel braces are standard 3 or 4 inch door hinges and the side stop/block hinges can be just about any hinge you want to pick up. Of course, in the matter of raising and lowering the table, the lighter you build the table, the easier it is to lift up to either get on the wheels or off the wheels. By the time I added the shelf and have tools and planes on the table top, it is a pretty good load to lift. The original concept of this table was to be light and easily moved. I find I don’t move it around too much so far, but nice to have that option. Once you get the wheels and cross braces installed on the narrow ends, you can flip the table upright. Now, you can lift the table up and drop the wheels down-and-locked and roll her around. Hinged side stops pulled out and legs on the concrete floor. Rope holds the side stops out of the way.   Table lifted up and the hinged side stops dropped into position. Table can now be moved about as needed. Only thing missing is the top working surface. Finished table is very strong yet very light. One note on adding the top plywood work surface is that you should keep the overlap to a maximum of 6 inches all the way around or you may get some droop on the edges and it won’t be true and flat across the top. I cut the 4 by 8 foot plywood top to 7 feet long since the exterior door is only 6’8” long – too much over hang on the narrow ends. But, I left the overlap all around because this gives you a great surface to clamp to later on, for reasons presently unknown, but you’ll be glad you left some overhang. Also, on the top plywood, I used the slightly thinner 1/2” high grade plywood to save some weight and some money. I seem to recall the 3/4” plywood was about $50 a sheet and the 1/2” about $35. You can flip the plywood top over when you get it thoroughly torn up and get double use of it, so, don’t glue or nail it down – 12 evenly spaced drywall screws will do nicely.  
Table lifted up and the hinged side stops dropped into position. Table can now be moved about as needed.     The list of materials follows: 1 Exterior door – 1-3/4” by 36” by 6’8” solid core 1 sheet – 4’ by 8’ 3/4” Birch plywood (legs and stringers) Hand pick for no warps 1 sheet – 4’ by 8’ 1/2” Birch plywood (table top) Hand pick for no warps 3 – 1″ by 4” by 8’ white wood boards (door edging) 4  castors (4” or larger) 4  – 3 to 4 inch door hinges 4 – 2 inch flat hinges Boxes of 1-1/2” and 2″ drywall screws ( or whatever length you prefer) Yellow carpenter’s glue General table numbers are as follows. Main body less plywood top = 3′ wide x 6’8″ long (using a heavy exterior grade door) Legs = 6″ wide one half, 5″ wide other half (glue and screw them together to make one leg). 3/4″ plywood. Stringers = 4″ wide. 3/4″ plywood.  Height = about 36 to 38 inches, or to suit Topper = 4′ wide x 7′ long. 1/2″ plywood. Wheels = 4″ diameter, 2 or all 4 fully castering Hinges = 3″ to 4″ pairs for main wheel mounts, 2″ for the side stops  Use glue and screws on all wood joints except for the moving parts. Norm’s Video  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6Hs-6mfnVM Shelf added later. Very handy to keep your balsa box and covering materials. Adds LOTS of weight to the table and makes harder to lift on/off the wheels.   Power strip added for Dremel tool and covering irons.   Roll around table is the centerpiece of my new workshop. Most useful tool I have in the entire shop. TEXT AND PHOTOS BY LANE CRABTREE     The post RC Model Airplane Shop Table You can Build Yourself appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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New for Premium Members — Install a fake detailed radial engine

When it comes to scale aircraft, especially those with big round radial engine cowls, you just have to install a fake scale engine. This greatly improves the realism of your model as well as helping make your engine cooling more effective. With a big opening up front, the ratio for cooling air in and out air out is thrown off and your engine will run hotter. By filling up the air inlet area, you can increase the efficiency of the airflow though the engine cowling. This article show both how to produce an impressive looking fake engine to cover up your model’s engine and how to install it so you have proper airflow through the cowling. Let’s get started. To read this and other exclusive online content Click Here to subscribe to the Model Airplane News Premium website. The post New for Premium Members — Install a fake detailed radial engine appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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RC Model Airplane Wing Repair

We all make dumb moves when flying. Practice is the best cure for this problem, as the ones who make the least dumb moves are usually the ones who fly ...
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RC Model Airplane Wing Repair

We all make dumb moves when flying. Practice is the best cure for this problem, as the ones who make the least dumb moves are usually the ones who fly the most.  Since I have moved about an hour’s drive from the flying field, I no longer go flying several times a week. And this is partially what led to writing this wing repair article. I say partially because any rookie should have known to raise the gear after engine failure on takeoff. But, being as the DLE-55RA or any DLE engine has NEVER failed me on takeoff, I was a bit unprepared and the Zero came down on the mains and the rude impact drove them upward almost thru the wing. Damaging a plane isn’t a big deal to me any longer as I have been in the RC game for 31 years, but cat-calls from the peanut gallery sometimes are hard to digest! ha. So, I walked over to the wreck, picked her up and proceeded to do an autopsy so I could have something tangible to blame it on!  After a not-so-long examination, I realized I had a very oil-fouled spark plug and should have changed it out several flights before the mishap. The engine had been trying to tell me it was slightly ill on previous flights and I refused to listen. An erratic idle was the clue I should have paid attention to. I run 32:1 gas/oil ratio and while it keeps the internals happy, it fouls plugs fairly well and one has to keep an eye and ear open for the warning signs. But now to the matter at hand. While the fuselage is intact, what we have is a pretty messed up wing. Both halves of the wing have shredded sheeting, top and bottom. Many would simply throw this into the dumpster. But not me. I have 200 plus flights on this old girl and decided to rebuild her into flying condition. The Zero is one of the best, most forgiving, fastest warbirds out there, so, I must get her flying once again. This particular Zero is from China Model Products  and is about 82 inches span. Glass fuselage and built-up wing and tails. Bottom of wing took the worst beating. Note the Spring-Aire (now Robart) retract mechanisms left in place. Top wing not as bad, but needs some serious TLC. I don’t really have a job guide to lead me thru a repair such as this, but I have a feel for what needs to be done. Once I removed the struts from the retract units I began looking for what parts I could put back into position and re-glue with CA and what I could strip off for the round file. The important part is to carefully put critical things back into place so as not to lose any alignments such as the fixed-gear or retract mounting blocks. The retracts usually have an angle-of-dangle that is important to keep as-designed. That’s why I left the retract units, minus the struts, on the wing. This will hold the hardwood mounting blocks into position to aid in getting them put back into place. Once you get these items solid, then proceed to slicing the broken sheeting off using neat cuts with a Number 11 X-Acto blade, saving as much as possible – the idea is to repair the wing, not totally rebuild. The damage on this wing was pretty much related to the retracts taking the hit so I was spared any repairs to the flaps, ailerons, and wingtips. Once you get the shattered sheeting removed, then you need to take a look at broken ribs. Of all the repairs, this is the most intense as you don’t have a guide to make new ribs and must jury-rig as best you can. There are usually intact ribs that can be traced along the edges such that you can get the basic curve and create a “strip or scab patch” to CA alongside the break. Sometimes you need to make a “crutch” repair to support the rib vertically. In either case, make sure you have decent structure before you try to re-sheet the surface. After removing the sheeting several ribs are seen to be broken. Recreate the basic rib contours with strips and add crutches.   Most of the repairs can be made with CA but there may be areas where you want to use Epoxy and in this case, Z-Poxy and glass cloth. Since the area around the retracts has been repaired before, it was getting a bit dicey to repair properly so I reinforced retract mounting blocks and surrounding ribs with glasswork. I mention Z-Poxy not to name drop, but because it is an excellent glue for glasswork. It’s got a long work time and sands easily. I like it especially for glassing over wing sheeting. Most wings use 3/32” sheeting so that’s what I have on hand. You can start on the leading edge and work back or the go the opposite direction. I like to resheet from the trailing edge and move toward the retracts as they are usually the hardest to work around. It’s kinda tedious but work as long as you feel like it and quit when you get tired. Pushing yourself to finish sometimes results in a sliced finger or some other mishap with the cutting tools. Keep the sheeting joint lines even and tight as you CA them. I take the long edge of the sheeting and glue it first, making sure I get that edge solid, then lay on the ribs and glue the short edges. You should keep some thick CA on hand to glue the ribs under the sheeting where you cannot access as it gives you time to place the sheeting down into place. Also, be sure to  cover that sheeting with a weight of sorts to keep pressure on the ribs until the CA has fired-off. Continue this process until you have rewoven the sheeting on that side of the wing. Once sheeted, get your 80 grit sanding block and hit it a few strokes to even up the sheeting and clean off the CA that bleeds out. But, don’t get carried away with the sanding – 3/32” balsa is dang thin stuff! You have got to realize you are saving your favorite warbird or scale plane here, not going to Top Gun or the Toledo concours RC Show!  Once you have recovered the wing, it should be presentable, but not necessarily perfect. You are looking for functional strength, mostly.   Top wing resheeting has begun. Work sheeting in as long a strip as possible. Bottom wing is more of the same. May not be the same appearance or layout as first built, but the emphasis is to attach firmly to the structure.   Press on until you get a solid repair. Minor gaps can be filled with Bondo.   Sheeting is about done, but needs the strut in place to make final cuts.
Insert the strut and keep fitting/trimming.  Left wing bottom is solid now. Eventually, you’ll get to this stage. Take your time.   After sheeting and some Bondo in places, this is where you arrive. Ready to recover. Yes, the OD Solar Tex covering is a slightly different color than the ailerons and flaps, but it’s functional and most importantly, it’s what I had on hand. I chose to just recover with Solar Tex but I could have glassed the wing for even more strength. Meatballs are home made from MonoKote. Bottom of wing. Also not discussed is that the struts needed a bit of TLC hand straightening and vise work. That’s the great thing with Robart struts – they are steel and you can rebend them a bit without metal fatiguing them like aluminum struts. Ahh, that’s my girl! She’s a beauty and flies great. Ready to go out there once again looking for “Pappy” in his Corsair.
TEXT & PHOTOS BY LANE CRABTREE The post RC Model Airplane Wing Repair appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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VQ Warbirds T-34C Turbo Mentor

This new .46 EP/GP ARF from VQ Warbirds features fiberglass cowl, working flaps, a painted pilot, optional retracts and lots of great scale details that closely match the full scale T-34C! With the big battery hatch, you can easily use either electric or glow for power. Optional factory VQ Electric retracts with oleo struts and VQ – Robart retracts are available.  Great Scale Looks and features make this New Generation ARF a great choice for warbird lovers who want great ground handling. Specifications: Wingspan: 61.4in Wing Area: 663sq.in. Length:46in Weight:7.05 lbs. Engine/Motor: 46 Two Stroke, 70 Four Stroke or Equivalent Electric (Sold Separately) Functions: Ailerons/Elevator/Rudder/Throttle/Flaps/ Optional Retractable Landing Gear Street Price $239.95 The post VQ Warbirds T-34C Turbo Mentor appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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FAST & LOUD! Reno Rear Bear

Sometimes, it’s not the size of the RC aircraft, but rather the sound and speed that capture the heart. This video of Ricardo la Valle flying  his Reno Racer Grumman F8F-2 Bearcat in the famous Rare Bear colors was shot at the Weston Park Model Airshow. As soon as he cranks up the engine and taxis to the runway, you know this Rare Bear means business. The 1/4-scale Rare Bear Grumman F8F-2 Bearcat has a wingspan of 88.58 inches and it weighs in at 47.5 pounds. The engine that makes this reno racer scream is a 3W 140i B2 turning a 3W 28×14 3-blade propeller.The Rear Bear was built from a 3W composite kit from Aircraft International. Video courtesy of Tbobborap1   The post FAST & LOUD! Reno Rear Bear appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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Go Anywhere Morphing Quad — This drone can change its size!

This drone can assess gaps and shrink to squeeze through them, while in flight! Researchers at the University of Zurich and EPFL designed an aircraft using 3D printed parts and off the shelf motor and radio system, and it can literally fold itself to fit through gaps, making it ideal for search and rescue and other scouting missions. PhD candidate Davide Falanga explained, “The idea came up after we worked on quadrotor flight through narrow gaps. The goal of our lab is to develop drones which can be in the future used in the aftermath of a disaster, as for example an earthquake, in order to enter building through small cracks or apertures in a collapsed building to look for survivors. Our previous approach required a very aggressive maneuver, therefore we looked into alternative solutions to accomplish a task as passing through a very narrow gap without having to fly at high speed. The solution we came up with is the foldable drone, a quadrotor which can change its shape to adapt to the task. The main difference between conventional drones and our foldable drone is in the way the arms are connected to the body: each arm is connected through a servo motor, which can change the relative position between the main body and the arm. This allows the robot to literally fold the arms around the body, which means that potentially any morphology can be obtained. An adaptive controller is aware of the drone’s morphology and adapts to it in order to guarantee stable flight at all times, independently of the configuration.” The post Go Anywhere Morphing Quad — This drone can change its size! appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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New for Premium Members — Onboard Flight Stabilizers

Three-axis flight stabilizers specifically designed for fixed-wing airplanes are a relatively recent innovation. They help the aircraft fly stable around its three axes: roll (aileron), pitch (elevator), and yaw (rudder). Today’s flight stabilizers units require a very small footprint and can be installed in aircraft of any size. There are also ready-to-fly planes that come with these units preinstalled as well as receiver/stabilizer combinations in one unit. To get the most from your flight stabilizer, there are some basic installation and setup adjustments you need to know. If you would like to read the entire article, or other exclusive online content, Click Here and subscribe to the Model Airplane News Premium website. The post New for Premium Members — Onboard Flight Stabilizers appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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Radio Fundamentals: fly better with dual rates, expo & mixing

Utilizing your radio’s built-in programming will let you fly better with more control of your model. This article is intended for new and intermediate fliers and higghlights three important features you need to understand, dual rates, exponential, and mixing. LET’S GET STARTED
First of all, when holding your radio during your flight, it’s a good idea to have the “standard” position on all switches be “away” from you. Another way to say this is to have the switches located on the top of your transmitter toward the back of the case and those on the front of the transmitter toward their top position. Establishing this allows you to always return to your most comfortable flying parameters should your flight get on the edge of your control abilities for whatever reason. EXPONENTIAL
Simply stated, exponential in our radios gives stick inputs a softer “feel” around the center of stick travel. The greater distance we move the stick away from center, the less effect any programmed expo has.  Expo works in concert with rate settings and is another piece of the puzzle in getting your radio controls exactly the way you want them. Sneaking up on how much expo to use is a good way to do it if you’ve never tried it before.  Entering a 10% value would be a good start. You will hardly notice that amount of input on the bench or in the air.  But once you figure out the procedure for setting it, there’s no mystery about going into the menus and increasing it to +15 or +20, or even more. Some of the best pilots use +70 or more on expo to fly 3D.  Most sport flyers will and should be in the range of +20 to +40. The type of aircraft you fly will determine how much expo you should use, if any. Even trainer aircraft and novice fliers can use some expo to advantage. Have no fear of exponential. The softer feel around stick center will make you a smoother flier; just don’t overdo it. For most helicopters, it’s a must. For most sport aircraft and sport fliers, it really helps a lot in advancing your flying skills. DUAL RATES
Dual rates are one of the neat features of our modern radios. The elevator dual rate switch is usually in the upper left front corner of the transmitter; the aileron switch is in the upper right front corner; and the rudder switch, if you have one, is in the upper right top. The purpose of these switches is to establish a limited servo travel position when the switch is moved to either of its two positions. For example, the switch “away” from you might give 100% servo travel, and if you click it toward you, your dual rate setting might provide 70% travel of that same servo (surface). Here’s a specific example. Let’s say you are flying a tail-dragger and that you need to input small amounts of rudder on takeoffs. You might program your standard position rudder rate at 70% of available rudder throw (the switch would be away from you, toward the back of the transmitter). Your second rate might be 100% (or even more) so that when you want to fly aerobatics, clicking the switch forward will give you almost double the throw on rudder. The result of this setup is that your ground handling and basic maneuvers will be very smooth on your standard setting, but your rudder authority for maneuvers will be very powerful on your high rate setting. The amount of travel that you set needs to be adjusted after flight experimentation. As you know, servo arm and surface horn length are also factors that control surface deflection amounts. Programming “rates” are the final step in tuning your aircraft to your liking. Dual rates are not to be ignored!  This feature is an important component provided by our modern radios that make us smoother, more accomplished fliers. They are easy to program, and even the beginner-level transmitters sport dual rates. Top shelf radios have triple rates! Several radios can combine all rates on one switch.  In my opinion, that’s a really nice feature that might be used after[ITAL] you program individual rates/switches and get them where you want them. Then, one switch sets all three surfaces to do either high or low settings, or any combination you want. MIXING
Mixing presents more of a challenge. It also requires more patience to get it the way we want it, but the effort is worth it. Most modern radios feature mixing circuitry. Some radios even have pre-programmed mixes.  One of the examples of how mixing can help make you a better pilot is the knife-edge mix between rudder and elevator. Knife-edge flight is a very cool maneuver, and really cool when you don’t have to constantly input elevator to hold the plane in position as it flies down the flightline on its side! So how is this accomplished? Let’s start by assuming you have the rate switch the way you want it. That means it’s set to hold the nose of your aircraft up a bit and level with the ground as the plane flies by you rolled over on its side. You might have fine-tuned your “normal” rate setting to achieve this. Now let’s get more specific. Let’s say you are at the field, and the wind is blowing right to left. You are going to fly your knife-edge maneuver from left to right, into the wind. You enter by giving the aircraft right aileron, making it bank to the right a quarter turn, and left rudder to hold up the nose.  All is going well at first, but in a second or two you see the nose of the plane going off line and pulling toward the canopy as you fly by. You need to correct with a bit of down-elevator. After a few passes, you get the feel of what is required to make the knife-edge look good. But you are constantly correcting, and the flyby looks ragged when you over/under-correct. The solution to this condition is a rudder/elevator mix. What you need to do is program about 5% of down-elevator to automatically input into your aircraft when you hold rudder. Since you don’t want this to happen all the time when you use rudder, you put the mix on a switch on the transmitter. Now, just before entering knife-edge, you hit the switch, roll a quarter turn, and when you enter your rudder command, the elevator deflects downward to whatever value you have entered in the mixing program. Five percent is a good starting point, but it may take more or less, and sometimes it may even take a “negative” mix, meaning the plane was moving toward the landing gear, not the canopy.  In that case, you program up-elevator mixed with rudder. It sounds complicated, but it really isn’t.  The best advice is for you to read the manual that came with the radio, and try it on the bench, then out at the field.  I like to take some written notes also, so when I get to the field I can remember what I did, and how to add or subtract more input if necessary. There are many mixes you can use. Flap/elevator is a common one, and so is aileron/spoilers.  Give mixing a try; like rates and expo, you are going to like it when you get it right. Most important, any radio inputs or changes should be done by you, the modeler, owner, and flier of the radio and aircraft.  It’s OK and even preferred if someone with experience is looking over your shoulder, giving instructions or making suggestions, but don’t let them make the changes. Hands-on experience is a basic tenet of effective learning. We have these features and many more in our radios. It might be time for you to give them a detailed look, with the goal of making your flying the best it can be.  Master your radio; don’t let it master you! By Tony Ianucelli The post Radio Fundamentals: fly better with dual rates, expo & mixing appeared first on Model Airplane News.
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