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  2. Bob Glasa

    Merts Landing RC Club Swap Meet

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    See Attached Flyer.................................... Merts Landing RC Swap Meet 10-27-18.pdf
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  4. One way to make scale RC airplanes look more realistic is to hide any and all of the switches and other RC-related hardware so that they aren’t visible from the outside. Hatches and flush fitting hatch covers are the answer. This how to article takes you step by step through the process of making a hinged, flush fitting and professional looking entryway for your model’s internal radio gear. To read more of this article as well as other exclusive online content, Click Here to subscribe to the Model Airplane News Members’ Only website. The post New for Premium Members — Flush Hatches appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  5. JShumate

    18-Foot Junkers Ju 188 Bomber

    Finally, after seven years of building and planning this awesome giant scale WW2 German bomber took flight on October 6, 2018! Actually, one of three RC models being built at the same modeler’s club, this 1/4-scale Junkers Ju 188 was built and is owned by Franz Obenauf. The Ju 188 has an 18 foot span, weighs 187 pounds and is powered by two Moki 250cc 5-cylinder radial gas engines. The paint job and weathering has been expertly done by Klaus Herold. Video courtesy of RC Scale Airplanes MORE DETAILS Fuselage Length: 12½ ft. Height at canopy: 40.1 in. Landing Gear with Tires: 13.7 lbs. Retract System: Festo air cylinders 35mm diameter (1.8 in. Wheel Diameter 11.4 in. Propellers 30.7 in., 3-blade Ramoser The post 18-Foot Junkers Ju 188 Bomber appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  6. JShumate

    Tips to Defeat Vibration

    Often, RC modelers find that their servo output arms are coming loose during flight and for various reasons, this is not a good thing. Actually, servo arms coming loose is a symptom of something else that’s troubling your giant scale airplane and that’s Vibration. The majority of vibration comes from the engine and it affects other parts of your airframe. Here are a few tips to minimize the affects of engine vibration. First, make sure your engine is properly bolted in place and that the engine mounts (and its standoffs if used,) are secure. Always use quality hardware and install wide flat washers under the nuts to spread out the load and help prevent the nuts from crushing into the firewall. Second, always run a properly balanced propeller. Whether you use a composite or wood prop, throw it on a balancer and make it doesn’t have a heavy blade. Use a quality balancer like the one from Du-Bro that has precision bearings and an adjustable base. Third, make sure your tail surfaces are properly installed and hinged and the linkage is free of slop. Sometimes a cheap CA style hinge will break and go unnoticed, so check these before each flight to be safe. I like to install jam nuts on the threaded ends of the pushrods to lock the clevises securely in place. It doesn’t take much to eliminate play in your linkages. And, fourth of course, make sure your servos are properly installed. Always use the rubber mounting grommets and be sure to install the brass inserts from the underside. This prevents the servo mounting screws from crushing the grommets. With most of my big planes, I like to install a removable servo tray made from a sheet of lite-ply. This makes inspection and maintenance a lot easier. I also glue additional layers of wood under the tray where the screws are inserted to stiffen the tray and to increase the amount of material the screws can thread into. Also, before you screw your servos into place, be sure to “harden” the threaded screw holes with a drop or two of thin CA. This will greatly reduce the chances of the screws stripping out of the wood. These issues usually affect your throttle, rudder and elevator servos. Engine vibration is most concentrated in the fuselage and it seldom affects the aileron and flap servos out in the wings. Another good tech tip for preventing the screws from backing out is to apply a very light smear of clear silicone sealant or Goop adhesive to the servo arm and the screw head. Just a little bit is all that’s needed. You don’t have to cover the entire screw. So, whenever you encounter a recurring problem, (especially after a rough landing or a crash,) look at your airplane as a whole and do everything you can to minimize the effects of engine vibration! Fly safe! The post Tips to Defeat Vibration appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  7. JShumate

    Rest in Peace Herschel Worthy

    It is with sadness that we learned that our friend and RC hobby personality, Herschel B. Worthy, age 82, passed away on Monday, October 15, 2018 in Memphis, Tennessee. Mr. Worthy was born April 17, 1936 to parents Herschel A. and Faith Worthy. Herschel was a resident of West Memphis. He was of the Baptist faith and attended the University of Arkansas. Herschel was an Army veteran. He spent many years working in the tire industry, 23 years with Firestone Tire, Cooper Tire and as a partner in Plaza Tire. He then relocated to California where he worked 4 years with Sky-Climber. Herschel, was however happiest serving his customers as Director of Sales and Marketing at Pacer Technology for over 30 years. Herschel leaves behind his daughter, Linda Worthy, four grandchildren; David and Jared Webb, Katie and Shelby Worthy along with four great-grandchildren. He is preceded in death by his parents and son Michael Worthy. We have many fond memories of seeing, and chatting with Herschel on the flightline at various RC events, and all of us here at Model Airplane News offer our sincere condolences to the Worthy family. The post Rest in Peace Herschel Worthy appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  8. JShumate

    Nail the Snap Roll

    The snap roll is an advanced maneuver that you’ll first encounter in the IMAC Sportsman sequence. It evolves into more difficult variations in the upper classes of competition. It is one of the most difficult maneuvers in which to consistently achieve a high score because it requires a keen sense of timing, throttle management and exit correction. In addition, every plane seems to snap differently owing to its CG location and wing placement, i.e., low wing, mid wing, or high wing. If you want to achieve a good snap roll, practice is mandatory. The snap roll is an auto-rotation maneuver in a stalled condition. During a snap, one wing is stalled while the other is accelerated about the roll axis. This creates a sudden roll-rate acceleration that you can’t obtain by simply inputting aileron. To achieve this condition in a model, several inputs must be given, including elevator, rudder and aileron. Pilots of full-scale planes will scoff at the idea of adding aileron because it is not required when they deal with wing loading figures in the range of 35 pounds per square foot. Our models, however, typically carry a wing loading of from 20 to 40 ounces per square foot, so their flight dynamics are different from those of full-scale planes. FLYING THE MANEUVER The simplest snap is known as the “inside snap.” This maneuver is performed from the upright position and is induced by adding elevator, rudder and aileron. Before you try this maneuver, be prepared for your plane to rotate at least twice as fast as it does during a typical aileron roll. You probably won’t even see your plane perform the maneuver because it happens so quickly. Instead, you will barely have started your control inputs when you’ll immediately have to think about recovery. Make sure that you have enough altitude to allow mistakes! Now take the airplane to a comfortable altitude at least 100 yards in front of you, parallel to the runway. Enter the aerobatic zone and fly to the center of the box at mid throttle (not full throttle). From level flight, perform an inside left snap by simultaneously applying up-elevator, left rudder and left aileron for 1 to 2 seconds. Recover from the maneuver by neutralizing the sticks and immediately adding right rudder to correct your loss of heading. Maintain the mid-throttle setting throughout the maneuver. FINESSING THE MANEUVER There are several places where a little finesse will go a long way. Most pilots bury their sticks in the corners of their transmitters to snap their planes. This typically creates a stall in which too much energy is depleted, and recovery is very difficult. This condition is known as “snapping too deep.” Your goal is to fly through the maneuver with enough inertia to allow the airflow to re-attach to the stalled wing on demand. To accomplish this, you will need to decrease the elevator and/or rudder input until your plane just barely snaps. The only way to find this point is to practice it. When you find the perfect combination of elevator, rudder and aileron, practice it over and over until you can easily duplicate it. BY DAN WOLANSKI The post Nail the Snap Roll appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  9. JShumate

    Electric Retracts Made Easy

    When you start to assemble an EDF jet, one of the required tasks is to work out and install your retractable landing gear. Modifying and installing E-flite gear in a jet is relatively simple and MAN contributor Ken Park recently accomplished the task for his new Viper Jet. Check it out, it’s easier than you may think. Before you can get in the air, you have to get your jet up on its landing gear. For many years I had shied away from models that required retracts because I thought they were too complicated, heavy and unreliable. Based on my observations of fellow club members spending half the day working on their gear, I took a pass. Recently however, I have fallen in love with EDF jets and as my jets got bigger and bigger, my need for retractable gear has grown. Actually the hobby has forced me into finally biting the bullet and using them. My first experience using traditional air-powered retracts with the necessary hardware and an air tank that needed to be pumped up, worked well but the onboard equipment took up a lot of room inside the model and the air lines and possible leaks was always a concern. So, for my newest project, the new Teng-Jet 90mm EDF Viper Jet (jet-teng.com), I decided to skip the air systems entirely and I went with the .25-.46-sized electric retracts from E-flite. From everyone I spoke with, the E-flite electric retracts came highly recommended, but also they recommended replacing the main gear’s trunions with more beefed up ones available from Tam Jets. The new trunions stand up nicely to the strain of rough flying fields conditions with models of higher wing loadings and electric ducted fan jets in general, always seem to fall into this category. Gear Upgrade Replacing the main trunions is as simple as putting each main gear into a vice on its side and removing the screws that hold both sides together. You can then slip the Eflite trunion out and replace it with the Tam Jet one. Then you screw the case back together and you’re good to go. The standard E-flite wire struts and axles work very well but for a true “big Jet” look I switched them out with TamJet struts and axles. This is also a simple upgrade easily done by loosening the set screws and pulling off the strut’s retaining clip. Features The E-flite electric retracts come with a 3-way servo harness that allows you to attach together the two main gear and the nose wheel servo connectors so you the entire retract system operates from a single channel. A nice safety feature is that each time the receiver is powered up, you must flip the retract switch on/off on your radio to arm them. This eliminates the chances of the gear cycling unexpectedly should the switch be in the wrong position when you turn on your receiver. Another nice feature of the nose wheel gear is the option to use either a tiller-arm or pull-pull method for steering. The tiller-arm can be mounted on either side if need be. In most EDF jets you don’t have much room and the pull-pull method is your only option for steering. The tiller-arm setup works nicely with my jet, and it provides a direct, slop-less link to the steering servo. Each of the three retract units simply screw down into place on the model using four mounting holes. Quick and simple. To go the next step you can also add working gear-doors sequenced with the movement of retractable gear— way-cool and very easy! Functional gear doors The electronic brains for doing this job come simply by plugging in the “ASSAN Gear & Door Sequencer” (hobbyking.com). This little unit can handle two separate doors so, in my case with the Viper, the two main gear doors on the fuselage count as one door. To do this I installed one servo to open both doors at the same time. The other door sequence is used for the nose gear door. The Door Sequencer has three basic modes—F1, F2 and F3. Once you decide on which mode is best for you, you’ll be able to fine tune each step by setting the servo travels and/or delay times required to make your mode work. The instructions so the breakdown for each mode, so it is pretty easy to get the sequences and time delays dialed in. First setup up your door throws using a regular servo tester (or your radio,) to get the linkage throws where you want them. Mark or measure the position of the linkage in the open and in the closed position. This doesn’t need to be super accurate, just approximate (for later use with the sequencer programming.) Then retract your gear and disconnect your door linkages. This is important; otherwise you could break something when you plug in the sequencer. Now connect power to the sequencer (without the servos, or gear). It should start in the F1 mode. For my model with electric retracts F3 mode works best. To switch modes, press and hold FUNC+ and FUNC- for two seconds to advance to F2 mode, then press and hold again to advance to F3 mode. Next press and hold VOL+ and VOL- for to move into the programming mode. The number on the left corresponds to the function in the look up table, (see the manual under F3 mode.) Here you can change each setting of each function with FUNC+ and FUNC- used to move you through the functions. VOL+ and VOL- changes the value of the current function. Experiment with the programming until you are comfortable with the features. Then to exit programming mode and save your settings, press and hold VOL+ and VOL- again which them returns the sequencer to the F3 mode. Then power the unit down completely to save the chances, otherwise you’ll have to start all over. Now reconnect power and check to make sure the sequencer starts in F3 mode, then connect your door servos one at a time, (no linkages yet). Fine Tuning In the F3 mode, DOOR 1 is for the nose gear and DOOR 2 is the main gear. Adjust the settings for each door first (using the measurements you took for the throws), then with the linkages connected, try them one at a time to fine tune. Once you are happy with the operation of the doors, disconnect the linkages again and open the doors fully. Now plug in the gear and the door servos (still no linkages) and adjust the gear and the door delays by noting when the gear/door servos move. Once you’re happy, save your settings by pressing and holding VOL+ and VOL- again for two seconds and exit the programming mode. Now, try the whole thing again with the door linkages connected together. CAUTION—I strongly advise not going back into the program mode with both the doors and the gear plugged in, and the linkages connected. As you step through the functions you will end up with a door or gear out of sequence and this will damage something. Always unplug or disconnect either the door servos or the gear themselves if you want to fine tune a particular function again. Regardless of the sequencer’s settings, all the gear doors have to be hinged properly and work smoothly for everything to work in unison. Bottom line E-flite has really taken the trouble and effort out of using retractable landing gear and now anyone can look like a pro with the simple flip of a switch! Canada Install Servos Specifications: E-flite Electric Retracts (e-fliterc.com) Type: 25-46 Electric Tricycle Current draw—Idle: 5mA. Operating: 900mA (max). Pulse width trigger points—Down: 1.331ms; Up: 1.690ms. Operation—FM: 22ms frame rate, 5V signal; DSM: 20ms frame rate, 3.3V signal. Sequence time: @4.8V: 2.75sec @6.0V: 2.50sec @7.4V: 2.25sec Operating voltage range: 4.8—7.4V Aircraft weight: 5.00–9.50 lb (2.25–4.30 kg) Unit weight—Nose gear: 3.5 oz (99.5 g); Main gear: 2.8 oz (79.5 g) each Price: $169.99 Gear Used: Tamjets trunion upgrade kit for E-Flite 25-46 tricycle gear: $59.95 Struts and Axles: TK ASSAN Gear & Door Sequencer: $13.39 The post Electric Retracts Made Easy appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  10. Inspiring readers since 1929, Model Airplane News was there right at the beginning. It was 1929 and during the golden age of flying when the founder, George C. Johnson, launched the magazine. This era was one that inspired adventure. Higher, faster, farther—record-setting pilots with their radical new airplanes were the heroes for several generations of young people. And Model Airplane News was the information pipeline that helped bring so many people into the new field of model flight. According to CEO Louis DeFrancesco, “Very few magazine brands can boast this success and longevity. We are proud of our amazing history and talented team, and we will continue to drive the RC airplane market and excite new generations of enthusiasts into the 21st century.” Fast-forward 90 years and Model Airplane News has now grown into an iconic brand that continues to keep pace with modeling and media trends. A changing media landscape has given Model Airplane News the opportunity to engage readers with high-quality content anytime, anywhere through digital, social, and print channels. A leading enthusiast multimedia company producing the highest-quality content for the world’s most influential audiences, Air Age Media engaging more than six million monthly global consumers across digital, print, and video brands. Air Age has a portfolio that includes the most iconic titles in the RC, drone, flight history, and collector industries: RC Car Action, Model Airplane News, RotorDrone, Die Cast X, and Flight Journal. The company has developed its social media and digital/print platforms to nurture its audience with premium targeted content reaching the super-influential consumer. Here’s to another 90 years of RC Flight! The post Model Airplane News Celebrates its 90th Anniversary appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  11. JShumate

    Rage RC X-Fly VTOL

    If you’re ready for a unique RC flying experience, the Rage X-Fly VTOL is the aircraft for you. In addition to typical 4-channel drone control, the X-Fly is capable of high alpha flight like an aircraft thanks to software that allows pilots to fly at either 20- or 35-degree angles of attack. It also includes features like one-touch takeoff and landing, altitude hold, and dual rates that allow you to fly with control speed that matches your skill level. Plus, the included LiPo battery provides plenty of power and flight times of over 5 minutes. The X-Fly not only has a futuristic design with bright, attractive graphics — it’s made of durable EPP foam and is equipped with powerful LEDs that provide great visibility, day or night. The X-Fly VTOL comes factory-assembled with a 2.4GHz 4-channel transmitter, a 250mAh 1-cell LiPo, and a convenient USB charger and spare propellers. Watch for a Flight Test in the February issue of MAN. The post Rage RC X-Fly VTOL appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  12. JShumate

    First Flight P-40 Warhawk

    Did you hear? The Curtiss P-40 Warhawk was first flown 80 years ago today on October 14, 1938! Wow! The XP-40 was flown in Buffalo, NY. Do you have an RC model of the P-40? let us know! The post First Flight P-40 Warhawk appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
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  14. JShumate

    MAN Plans: 25% Fokker E.V.

    This 1/4-scale Fokker E.V., designed by David Johnson (plan no. X0305A), is a great project for anyone who wants a WW I fighter but doesn’t want the hassle of building two wings. Using conventional balsa, spruce and plywood construction, the Flying Razor has an 84 inch span and was designed for a Zenoah G-38 for power. The parasol wing is fully sheeted and it is built up-side down over the plans to make the dihedral and wingtip washout easy to do. The model uses Williams Brothers, scale vintage wheels and machine guns and the 1/4-scale Fokker cowl is available from Arizona Model Aircrafters. In the air the Fokker E.V. handles like an advanced trainer 3 sheets $27.95. Click HERE for plans. The post MAN Plans: 25% Fokker E.V. appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  15. JShumate

    Graupner HoTTigger V2

    Graupner’s latest offering, the HoTTrigger 1400S V2 Competition Plug-and-Play (PNP), includes many performance and durability upgrades to the original high-performance aerobatic model. According to Graupner, the HoTTrigger combines the best attributes of the Extra 330SC and Edge 540 designs and incorporates a NACA 63A-mod airfoil for outstanding performance at any speed. Like its predecessor, it is a PNP model that only requires a receiver and LiPo battery. In the Air Field assembly only takes minutes: Slide the spar into the fuselage, insert the wing halves, and press the wing latches into place. No more wing bolts to lose! I felt that the recommended exponential values might result in an overly touchy model (aileron 17%, elevator 15%, and rudder 18% for 3D control throws). I increased these to 55% on all flight surfaces, and this proved to be a good starting point. I believe the recommended values are for use with a Graupner receiver with a flight-stabilization system. The relatively large wheels make taxiing and takeoff easy on grass or pavement. Takeoffs require only a small amount of rudder correction during the short roll. Landings are equally easy: Reduce power, line up with the runway, and flare. When balanced at the recommended center of gravity, the plane felt slightly on the tail-heavy side for my flying style; it had a slight tendency to climb when inverted. A larger-capacity battery should balance the plane to my liking. General Flight Performance Stability: Neutral stability, which the HoTTrigger possesses, is the name of the game in aerobatics. The plane retains its stability at all speeds and remains fully controllable at slow speeds. Tracking: From takeoff to landing, the tracking is superb. Knife-edge flight required virtually no corrections, and the plane held a perfect line. Aerobatics: Intermediate and sport pilots will enjoy putting the HoTTrigger through traditional aerobatic maneuvers. Rolls are axial and snaps are crisp, while loops can be as large as you want. There is ample power and control authority for any and all 3D maneuvers as well as extricating oneself from trouble. Vertical performance is fantastic for tall hammerheads or quickly gaining altitude for spinning maneuvers. While some planes excel in 3D but lack precision (and vice versa), the HoTTrigger is well balanced in this respect. Precision maneuvers, such as point rolls, look great, and the plane handles tumbling maneuvers with ease. Glide and stall performance: The HoTTrigger is controllable at very slow speeds without any tendency to drop a wing. Stalls are straight ahead, and recovery is quick. Bottom Line After the first flight of the HoTTrigger, I decided it would be my go-to model for everyday flying. It’s large enough to have a good presence in the air and provide enough inertia to carry the model through aerobatic maneuvers while being easily transported. The post Graupner HoTTigger V2 appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  16. JShumate

    Tips for Formers and Stringers

    As my current workshop project continues, I thought it would be a good time to address proper installation and alignment of fuselage formers and stringers. There are some tips that make it easier to keep everything straight and properly aligned. Just take your time. Also, here’s a small but important correction from last time. With a little more research, I’ve discovered that the Nieuport 27 I wanted to build is actually a 24. It is the Nieuport 24 No. 4393 flown by MdL (NCO) André Loyseau Grandmaison of the Escadrille Squadron N 561, The Chimera painted on the side is what drew me to build this plane. Basically the difference between the type 24 and the 27 is the main gear axle and the tail skid arrangement. The 27 had a split axle similar to the Sopwith Camel and a internally sprung tail skid. The 24 has a solid axle like the Nieuport 17 and the fixed and faired tail skid as shown above. Getting back to the workbench, we left off with the two side frames assembled and ready for the cross members to be added. The first thing I did was to brace the sides in a vertical position (above the top view of the plans), and then using squares for alignment, I epoxied the firewall in place. The top longerons were first pinned to the plans then the top and bottom cross-members were added from front to back, checking the framework for squareness. (The framework in inverted). Next the firewall was added and once the epoxy cured, I added the hardwood landing gear channels again using epoxy. Here you see the balsa block added to the bottom of the firewall to fill the area forward of the front landing gear channel block. After the cross-members are added, check the framework for squareness and then add all the bottom diagonals gluing them in place from front to back. To start the former and stringer assembly, you start at the front and work back toward the tail. There is a circular cowl ring made from 1/8 inch lite plywood and this is epoxied to the face of the firewall. But before gluing it into place, I glued the top and side formers to the backside of the former ring. This makes it easy to center the cowl ring as the epoxy cures. Here’s the front of the cowl ring in place I used 15 minute epoxy to glue it to the firewall. Using 1/8-inch balsa, I made all of the top and side formers cutting them with the stringer slots in place. Lots of time was spend on the CAD drawings to make sure everything would line up properly. Start placing the top formers at their proper locations while using the stringers as a guide. Basically all the formers have to be centered at their given locations. I tack glue the formers in place in case they need to be tweaked during construction. The section between the firewall and the second former will be sheeted over so the stringers do not have to be glued in place here at this time. Here you see the aft formers and stringers in place. Again, I used the stringers to help properly position the formers. Use your side view plans drawings as a guide. All the stringers have to be parallel to one another. Some of the side formers shown below have not yet been glued in place. Using the stringers as guides, continue adding the side formers in place. Here some of the formers have not yet been glued in place. Stand back a little bit and look at the stringers. They should be parallel to one another and should mate with the slots in the formers without having to bend them up or down. They should slip easily into place. If not, you can adjust the slot slightly by enlarging them so the stringer remains straight. Glue in place and then add a little scrap balsa to fill in the gap. At the very end of the stringers, there is a top former at the front of the horizontal stabilizer saddle. The formers but up against the former and are glued in place. Some internal blocking is then added to support the ends of the stringers. Also the aft ends of the side stringers end flush with the second to last framework vertical. To keep the stringers running true, any where they interfere with a framwork vertical or diagonal member, the stringer is notched and then glued in place. This add plenty of strength to the entire fuselage assembly. Stay tuned as the Nieuport 24 project continues. The post Tips for Formers and Stringers appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  17. JShumate

    Pro Tips for Flying Twins

    There’s just something special about twin-engine airplanes. Whenever a twin shows up at the flying field, most modelers stop what they’re doing and go over to check it out. Maybe it’s the sound of the engines as they sync into and out of phase while the model is in the air; or perhaps it’s the overall size and proportions of the model with its two or more engines slung under its wings. Whatever the reason, twins have been very popular choices for scale modelers, and they continue to draw attention wherever and whenever they fly. (Above) Twin-engine aircraft, especially WW II military warbirds are exciting and always draw a crowd. Built by Paul LeTourneau, David Malchione’s monster-scale B-26 is an awesome sight in the air and on the flightline. Paul enlarged Jerry Bates plans to a 170-inch span, and powered the Marauder with a pair of Desert Aircraft DA-100 gas engines. (Photo by Palmer Johnson.) Over the years, I have designed and flown several giant-scale twins and very rarely have I had any engine-out problems. My first big twin was my 140-inch-span Douglas DC-3/C-47. At the time, Quadra 35s were the only real choices for gas engines, but I have seen this design flown very nicely with a pair of Enya 1.55 4-stroke glow engines. The next was the 101-inch-span, B-25 Mitchell medium bomber powered by two Zenoah G-23s. The B-25 remains one of my most popular designs, and I have sold about 2,000 sets of plans for it. If I were to build another, I would power it with the new G-26 gas engine. Next was my G-38-powered 114-inch-span Beechcraft D-18, which was followed by my 1/7-scale, 114-inch-span P-61 Black Widow (also powered by G-38s). My last twin, the P-38 Lightning, also has a span of 114 inches and was designed around a pair of G-45 engines. With this article, I’ll highlight some of the basic do’s and don’ts for your first twin-engine airplane. ENGINE SETUP (Above) I always use soft mounts such as these from Scale Aviation because they keep the airframe and the engines happy. (Above) Twin aircraft are typically lost when one engine fails because the fuel screen in its carb is dirty. Make sure that your engine gets clean fuel by using effective filters in your fuel container and in your model’s fuel system The most important thing to consider when flying twins is engine reliability. I have hundreds of flights on my P-38 and my Black Widow and have never suffered an engine-out. This is because I take the time to set the engines up properly. To keep the engines running reliably, you must supply them with clean fuel. I see it all the time at the flying field: an engine quits because the filter screens inside the carb are clogged and fuel flow suffers. I always use two filters in my fuel container, a felt clunk filter and an inline paper filter. Clunk filters backed up with in-line filters between the engines and the model’s fuel tanks are standard equipment on all my models. Clean, well-filtered fuel is also very important for glow-engine aircraft. I use industrial-grade filters that you can buy at most small-engine and lawnmower shops. They are good insurance and should always be used. It is also very important to set both of your engines up so they are absolutely identical in operation. This means you use the same servos and the same clevises and pushrods in their throttle linkages. Make sure you have the linkages installed in the same holes in the servo arms and that both carburetors move the same amount and are linear in response to the movement of the transmitter throttle stick. This may take a little work, but believe me, you can’t control a twin without having identical engine setups. Of course, you want to balance the props properly and make sure the mufflers are the same and are tightened into place properly. It wouldn’t be a bad idea to safety-wire the muffler bolts so there’s no chance of one coming loose. I like to use soft mounts, and I use either the B&B Specialties or the Scale Aviation brand of soft mounts of the size I need for the engine in use. ENGINE SYNC (Above) When setting up a twin, especially a tail-dragger like this D-18 built by Dennis Crooks, be sure to set the engine side thrust properly. If you don’t, the model will torque-turn to the left! When it comes to syncing the engines’ rpm, do not lean the slower engine to increase its speed. This will lead to its over-heating and eventually dying at the worst possible time. Instead, richen the faster one slightly to decrease its rpm. For the most part, with both engines carefully set up, it is more important to have reliable engines than to have their rpm matched exactly. I always use gasoline engines, and in fact, I have only used engines with magneto ignitions. True, a CD ignition offers easy hand starting, a lower idle and probably a little more top-end power. But I prefer the simplicity and reliability of a magneto. If, however, you prefer to use glow engines to power your twin, be sure to completely break the engines in and adjust the carburetors for a reliable idle and a smooth transition through the midrange. It would also be a good idea to use an onboard glow-driver system (one for each engine) to keep the glow plug lit. This will greatly improve engine reliability, especially when set up to come on at and below 1/4 throttle. SIDE-TO-SIDE SETUP (Above) The very popular P-38 Lightning is one of my favorite twin-engine designs. I have hundreds of flights on it and have never had an engine out. Its Zenoah G-45 gas engines offer excellent, reliable power. For a tail-dragger aircraft, I set the left engine with zero offset, and I set the right engine with 3 degrees of right thrust. I came to this setup when I was fine-tuning my Beech D-18. The Paul Matt 3-views I used to design the model, showed each engine with 2 degrees of outboard thrust. As it turned out, this produced a tremendous amount of left torque. Even with full right rudder, the D-18 always turned to the left on takeoff. My zero and 3 degrees setup solved the problem nicely. The effect of left torque turning is much less of an issue with aircraft that are equipped with tricycle landing gear. I feel that this offset thrust setup also helps during an engine-out. How much engine down thrust you need is more a matter of how the airplane flies and the model’s wing and tail-surface incidences. You can adjust this after several test flights. FLYING TWINS (Above) Here is my first Beechcraft D-18. It flew great, but I lost it after one engine signed off because my electric-powered smoke system was still pumping smoke oil into my mufflers when I pulled the throttles back. (Above) twins like my P-38 Lightning that are equipped with tricycle landing gear are less likely to torque-turn to the left on takeoff. But having the correct engine side thrust is always very important for proper performance. (Above) my B-25 Mitchell medium bomber remains one of my most popular designs. It has a lot going for it, twin tails, gas engines, tricycle landing gear, almost everyone recognizes it and it has excellent flight characteristics. As a rule, twin-tail airplanes are better for twin engines than single-tail designs. There’s no great secret to successfully flying twins; the important thing is to fly smoothly and not to be heavy-handed with control inputs. I once saw a really nice C-47 destroyed because its pilot yanked it off the ground on takeoff and tried to fly it away with its nose at close to 40 degrees above the horizon. Of course, one engine sagged and went offline, and the model lost power and airspeed at a very low altitude. Had the pilot flown his model smoothly at a gradual departure angle, the engine may never have quit. Even if an engine does sign off, if you have enough altitude and you maintain airspeed, you can save the model by remembering always to fly it. Advance the throttles smoothly; don’t just jam them full open for takeoff. As long as both engines are running, flying a twin is no different from flying a single-engine aircraft. If you do lose an engine, throttle back slightly and determine which engine is out. Then adjust the rudder trim to compensate for the offset thrust and unwanted yaw, and think about bringing the model in for a landing. Try not to turn sharply into the dead engine, but more important, maintain the proper airspeed while you set up your emergency landing. Most multi-engine models have a higher than normal wing loading. Many twins are lost because the pilot doesn’t keep the wings flying with the proper airspeed. As a rule, twin-tail airplanes are better for twin engines than single-tail designs. This is because the rudders are more effective when positioned in the propwash. Full-scale planes have two rudders for the same reason. If you want a single-tail twin, pick one with a big rudder and fin. If you want to install an electric-pump smoke system (or two), set them up so that they will come on at 1/4 throttle and higher. If they come on at lower than 1/4 throttle, the smoke oil can flood the muffler and cause the engine to die. Believe me, I know; I lost my first D-18 because I did not switch the smoke off before I pulled the throttles back. A simple radio mix can also be used to have the smoke switch tied to the throttle position, so there’s no chance of it switching on when the engines are below 1/4 power. Flying twins is a source of great pleasure and always brings fun to the flying field. If you set your engines up properly and fly your model reasonably, you, too, will enjoy that multi-engine excitement. Big or small, twins are hard to beat! By Nick Ziroli Sr., Photos by Nick Ziroli Sr. & Palmer Johnson. Part of the Model Airplane News “Classic Archive” Collection of Online Articles. The post Pro Tips for Flying Twins appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  18. JShumate

    Pro Tips for Flying Twins

    There’s just something special about twin-engine airplanes. Whenever a twin shows up at the flying field, most modelers stop what they’re doing and go over to check it out. Maybe it’s the sound of the engines as they sync into and out of phase while the model is in the air; or perhaps it’s the overall size and proportions of the model with its two or more engines slung under its wings. Whatever the reason, twins have been very popular choices for scale modelers, and they continue to draw attention wherever and whenever they fly. (Above) Twin-engine aircraft, especially WW II military warbirds are exciting and always draw a crowd. Built by Paul LeTourneau, David Malchione’s monster-scale B-26 is an awesome sight in the air and on the flightline. Paul enlarged Jerry Bates plans to a 170-inch span, and powered the Marauder with a pair of Desert Aircraft DA-100 gas engines. (Photo by Palmer Johnson.) Over the years, I have designed and flown several giant-scale twins and very rarely have I had any engine-out problems. My first big twin was my 140-inch-span Douglas DC-3/C-47. At the time, Quadra 35s were the only real choices for gas engines, but I have seen this design flown very nicely with a pair of Enya 1.55 4-stroke glow engines. The next was the 101-inch-span, B-25 Mitchell medium bomber powered by two Zenoah G-23s. The B-25 remains one of my most popular designs, and I have sold about 2,000 sets of plans for it. If I were to build another, I would power it with the new G-26 gas engine. Next was my G-38-powered 114-inch-span Beechcraft D-18, which was followed by my 1/7-scale, 114-inch-span P-61 Black Widow (also powered by G-38s). My last twin, the P-38 Lightning, also has a span of 114 inches and was designed around a pair of G-45 engines. With this article, I’ll highlight some of the basic do’s and don’ts for your first twin-engine airplane. ENGINE SETUP (Above) I always use soft mounts such as these from Scale Aviation because they keep the airframe and the engines happy. (Above) Twin aircraft are typically lost when one engine fails because the fuel screen in its carb is dirty. Make sure that your engine gets clean fuel by using effective filters in your fuel container and in your model’s fuel system The most important thing to consider when flying twins is engine reliability. I have hundreds of flights on my P-38 and my Black Widow and have never suffered an engine-out. This is because I take the time to set the engines up properly. To keep the engines running reliably, you must supply them with clean fuel. I see it all the time at the flying field: an engine quits because the filter screens inside the carb are clogged and fuel flow suffers. I always use two filters in my fuel container, a felt clunk filter and an inline paper filter. Clunk filters backed up with in-line filters between the engines and the model’s fuel tanks are standard equipment on all my models. Clean, well-filtered fuel is also very important for glow-engine aircraft. I use industrial-grade filters that you can buy at most small-engine and lawnmower shops. They are good insurance and should always be used. It is also very important to set both of your engines up so they are absolutely identical in operation. This means you use the same servos and the same clevises and pushrods in their throttle linkages. Make sure you have the linkages installed in the same holes in the servo arms and that both carburetors move the same amount and are linear in response to the movement of the transmitter throttle stick. This may take a little work, but believe me, you can’t control a twin without having identical engine setups. Of course, you want to balance the props properly and make sure the mufflers are the same and are tightened into place properly. It wouldn’t be a bad idea to safety-wire the muffler bolts so there’s no chance of one coming loose. I like to use soft mounts, and I use either the B&B Specialties or the Scale Aviation brand of soft mounts of the size I need for the engine in use. ENGINE SYNC (Above) When setting up a twin, especially a tail-dragger like this D-18 built by Dennis Crooks, be sure to set the engine side thrust properly. If you don’t, the model will torque-turn to the left! When it comes to syncing the engines’ rpm, do not lean the slower engine to increase its speed. This will lead to its over-heating and eventually dying at the worst possible time. Instead, richen the faster one slightly to decrease its rpm. For the most part, with both engines carefully set up, it is more important to have reliable engines than to have their rpm matched exactly. I always use gasoline engines, and in fact, I have only used engines with magneto ignitions. True, a CD ignition offers easy hand starting, a lower idle and probably a little more top-end power. But I prefer the simplicity and reliability of a magneto. If, however, you prefer to use glow engines to power your twin, be sure to completely break the engines in and adjust the carburetors for a reliable idle and a smooth transition through the midrange. It would also be a good idea to use an onboard glow-driver system (one for each engine) to keep the glow plug lit. This will greatly improve engine reliability, especially when set up to come on at and below 1/4 throttle. SIDE-TO-SIDE SETUP (Above) The very popular P-38 Lightning is one of my favorite twin-engine designs. I have hundreds of flights on it and have never had an engine out. Its Zenoah G-45 gas engines offer excellent, reliable power. For a tail-dragger aircraft, I set the left engine with zero offset, and I set the right engine with 3 degrees of right thrust. I came to this setup when I was fine-tuning my Beech D-18. The Paul Matt 3-views I used to design the model, showed each engine with 2 degrees of outboard thrust. As it turned out, this produced a tremendous amount of left torque. Even with full right rudder, the D-18 always turned to the left on takeoff. My zero and 3 degrees setup solved the problem nicely. The effect of left torque turning is much less of an issue with aircraft that are equipped with tricycle landing gear. I feel that this offset thrust setup also helps during an engine-out. How much engine down thrust you need is more a matter of how the airplane flies and the model’s wing and tail-surface incidences. You can adjust this after several test flights. FLYING TWINS (Above) Here is my first Beechcraft D-18. It flew great, but I lost it after one engine signed off because my electric-powered smoke system was still pumping smoke oil into my mufflers when I pulled the throttles back. (Above) twins like my P-38 Lightning that are equipped with tricycle landing gear are less likely to torque-turn to the left on takeoff. But having the correct engine side thrust is always very important for proper performance. (Above) my B-25 Mitchell medium bomber remains one of my most popular designs. It has a lot going for it, twin tails, gas engines, tricycle landing gear, almost everyone recognizes it and it has excellent flight characteristics. As a rule, twin-tail airplanes are better for twin engines than single-tail designs. There’s no great secret to successfully flying twins; the important thing is to fly smoothly and not to be heavy-handed with control inputs. I once saw a really nice C-47 destroyed because its pilot yanked it off the ground on takeoff and tried to fly it away with its nose at close to 40 degrees above the horizon. Of course, one engine sagged and went offline, and the model lost power and airspeed at a very low altitude. Had the pilot flown his model smoothly at a gradual departure angle, the engine may never have quit. Even if an engine does sign off, if you have enough altitude and you maintain airspeed, you can save the model by remembering always to fly it. Advance the throttles smoothly; don’t just jam them full open for takeoff. As long as both engines are running, flying a twin is no different from flying a single-engine aircraft. If you do lose an engine, throttle back slightly and determine which engine is out. Then adjust the rudder trim to compensate for the offset thrust and unwanted yaw, and think about bringing the model in for a landing. Try not to turn sharply into the dead engine, but more important, maintain the proper airspeed while you set up your emergency landing. Most multi-engine models have a higher than normal wing loading. Many twins are lost because the pilot doesn’t keep the wings flying with the proper airspeed. As a rule, twin-tail airplanes are better for twin engines than single-tail designs. This is because the rudders are more effective when positioned in the propwash. Full-scale planes have two rudders for the same reason. If you want a single-tail twin, pick one with a big rudder and fin. If you want to install an electric-pump smoke system (or two), set them up so that they will come on at 1/4 throttle and higher. If they come on at lower than 1/4 throttle, the smoke oil can flood the muffler and cause the engine to die. Believe me, I know; I lost my first D-18 because I did not switch the smoke off before I pulled the throttles back. A simple radio mix can also be used to have the smoke switch tied to the throttle position, so there’s no chance of it switching on when the engines are below 1/4 power. Flying twins is a source of great pleasure and always brings fun to the flying field. If you set your engines up properly and fly your model reasonably, you, too, will enjoy that multi-engine excitement. Big or small, twins are hard to beat! By Nick Ziroli Sr., Photos by Nick Ziroli Sr. & Palmer Johnson. Part of the Model Airplane News “Classic Archive” Collection of Online Articles. The post Pro Tips for Flying Twins appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  19. JShumate

    Social Meeting

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    Cubs and Classics

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    Business Meeting

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