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  2. Kick your foam warbird up a notch by adding fl*ps! The techniques shown here upgrade a P-47 Thunderbolt that has optional functional fl*ps (an upgrade available on many small electrics). The flap outlines are already molded into the wing so it’s easy to figure out where the fl*ps belong. Here’s how to install them: YOU’LL NEED: The first thing to do is to collect the required gear and materials. Two micro servos $5 worth of hardware to make the pushrod linkages, clevises and control horns Razor saw Sandpaper Foam-safe silver paint Foam doubled-sided tape (I use installation tape from the local hardware store) Y-harness (to connect your dual flap servos to the receiver) BEFORE AFTER Installing functional fl*ps are easier than you think and they’ll give you improved flight performance. Below: You don’t need much to install working fl*ps—just basic hardware and tools! 1 Start by using a straightedge and lightly cut into the flap hinge line on top of the wing. Make a second cut along the hinge line under the wing. Don’t try to cut the flap in one pass. Two shallow cuts that meet in the middle produce a clearer job. 2 To cut the root end of the flap free of the wing, use a fine-tooth razor saw or hacksaw blade. Make the cut vertical and square to the end of the flap. 3 Use fine sandpaper and sand the cut edges and end of the flap so it is smooth and straight. Remove any “fuzz” left so when it is painted it will look clean and smooth. 4 Cut the base off a suitable control horn and then cut a slot into the bottom of the flap. Slide the horn in place and use foam-safe CA to glue it into place. I used Bob Smith Industries CA and glue accelerator. Use it sparingly—just a mist is enough. 5 Use a fine-tip pen and mark the locations of three hinges. To install the Robart Hinge Points, use a sharpened length of brass tubing to cut/drill the hinge pockets in the foam. 6 Twist and push gently with the tube about 45 degrees to the wing. Place your finger on the opposite side of the wing so you can feel the tube getting close to the outer surface. Try not to push all the way through or you’ll have to use some filler to fill the opening. 7 In this photo, the three Robart Hinge Point hinges have been glued into place. With the hingepins below the wing (offset hinging), the flap moves down and back from the wing. I used 15-minute epoxy so there is time to align the hinge pins. This allows the flap to move without binding. 8 The wing comes with clear tape that covers the aileron servo leads. Remove some of the tape so you can place the flap servo lead in the same channel. 9 To install the servo, clean the servo pocket in the wing with some rubbing alcohol and use a piece of doubled-sided foam tape. For the pushrod and clevis linkage, keep it simple and use a Z-bend to attach it to the servo arm. This photo shows the servo with flap in the up position. 10 Here is the flap in the down position. You’ll have to experiment a little to get the position of the servo arm and the hole/linkage placement right for the radio you are using. A programmable radio comes in handy here so you can precisely adjust the travel and endpoints for your flap servos. 11 After the installation is done, lightly spray silver foam-safe paint to cover the tape and the exposed foam edges of the fl*ps. A little paint on the servo won’t hurt anything and will help it blend in. 12 Here’s the finished wing with the flap in the down position. As you can see with the radio’s flap control kn*b, it is dialed in for full down. A twist of the kn*b brings the flap in the up position for normal flying. This modification takes just a couple hours and it is easy to do on any type of foam warbird you might have in your RC hangar. Give it a try—you’ll love how much better your airplane performs! The post Add fl*ps to your Foam Warbird appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  3. Ever wanted to fly like a bird? Check out these JetMen, three of them fly formation with full size jets. The ultimate “Open c*ckpit” Flight! The post JetMen Flies with Full-Size Jets! appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  4. Chuck Hamilton from Bremen, IN is a Top Gun Scale competitor and has built amazing scale aircraft. One of his successful compet*tion warbirds is his beautiful SDB-3 Dauntless. In some way, every model he has built ties to his father, and this Ziroli designed Douglas SDB-3 Dauntless is no exception. He and his father, Lloyd Hamilton, were at the Kalamazoo Air Zoo in Michigan when they brought in the original aircraft that this model is based on. While looking over the newly acquired SBD, which was recovered from Lake Michigan (with all the lake growth still attached), his father told him the story of his best friend being a rear gunner on an SBD during WW II. At that moment, he knew he had to build one. The Ziroli SBD has typical wood construction and is nicely powered by Zenoah GT-80 twin cylinder gas engine.The model is 2.4 in. to the foot scale and has a wingspan of 100 inches. It is 78 inches long and has 1,750 square inches of wing area. It features Robart retracts, a Spektrum DX18 radio system for guidance, a fully detailed c*ckpit and is painted with latex house paint including all markings, weathering etc.The model has been flying at local fly-ins now for over 3 years. Chuck says the love for modeling goes back to his father who was in the infancy of RC and scale military aircraft and modeling has kept them close. Photos by Chuck Hamilton and Dino DiGiorgio The post Chuck Hamilton’s SBD Dive-Bomber appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  5. From its Civil War origins to its modern-day traditions, find out more about America’s most solemn holiday. Credit Barabara Maranzani, https://www.history.com/ Memorial Day and its traditions may have ancient roots. While the first commemorative Memorial Day events weren’t held in the United States until the late 19th century, the practice of honoring those who have fallen in battle dates back thousands of years. The ancient Greeks and Romans held annual days of remembrance for loved ones (including soldiers) each year, festooning their graves with flowers and holding public festivals and feasts in their honor. In Athens, public funerals for fallen soldiers were held after each battle, with the remains of the dead on display for public mourning before a funeral procession took them to their internment in the Kerameikos, one of the city’s most prestigious cemeteries. One of the first known public tributes to war dead was in 431 B.C., when the Athenian general and statesman Pericles delivered a funeral oration praising the sacrifice and valor of those killed in the Peloponnesian War—a speech that some have compared in tone to Abraham Lincoln’s Gettysburg Address. One of the earliest commemorations was org*nized by recently freed sl*ves. As the Civil War neared its end, thousands of Union soldiers, held as prisoners of war, were herded into a series of hastily assembled camps in Charleston, South Carolina. Conditions at one camp, a former racetrack near the city’s Citadel, were so bad that more than 250 prisoners died from disease or exposure, and were buried in a mass grave behind the track’s grandstand. Three weeks after the Confederate surrender, an unusual procession entered the former camp: On May 1, 1865, more than 1,000 recently freed sl*ves, accompanied by regiments of the U.S. Colored Troops (including the Massachusetts 54th Infantry) and a handful of white Charlestonians, gathered in the camp to consecrate a new, proper burial site for the Union dead. The group sang hymns, gave readings and distributed flowers around the cemetery, which they dedicated to the “Martyrs of the Race Course.” The holiday’s “founder” had a long and distinguished career. In May 1868, General John A. Logan, the commander-in-chief of the Union veterans’ group known as the Grand Army of the Republic, issued a decree that May 30 should become a nationwide day of commemoration for the more than 620,000 soldiers killed in the recently ended Civil War. On Decoration Day, as Logan dubbed it, Americans should lay flowers and decorate the graves of the war dead “whose bodies now lie in almost every city, village and hamlet churchyard in the land.” According to legend, Logan chose May 30 because it was a rare day that didn’t fall on the anniversary of a Civil War battle, though some historians believe the date was selected to ensure that flowers across the country would be in full bloom. After the war Logan, who had served as a U.S. congressman before resigning to rejoin the army, returned to his political career, eventually serving in both the House and Senate and was the unsuccessful Republican candidate for vice president in 1884. When he died two years later, Logan’s body laid in state in the rotunda of the United States Capitol, making him one of just 33 people to have received the honor. Today, Washington, D.C.’s Logan Circle and several townships across the country are named in honor of this champion of veterans and those killed in battle. Logan probably adapted the idea from earlier events in the South. Even before the war ended, women’s groups across much of the South were gathering informally to decorate the graves of Confederate dead. In April 1886, the Ladies Memorial Association of Columbus, Georgia resolved to commemorate the fallen once a year—a decision that seems to have influenced John Logan to follow suit, according to his own wife. However, southern commemorations were rarely held on one standard day, with observations differing by state and spread out across much of the spring and early summer. It’s a tradition that continues today: Nine southern states officially recognize a Confederate Memorial Day, with events held on Confederate President Jefferson Davis’ birthday, the day on which General Thomas “Stonewall” j*ckson was killed, or to commemorate other symbolic events. It didn’t become a federal holiday until 1971. American’s embraced the notion of “Decoration Day” immediately. That first year, more than 27 states held some sort of ceremony, with more than 5,000 people in attendance at a ceremony at Arlington National Cemetery. By 1890, every former state of the Union had adopted it as an official holiday. But for more than 50 years, the holiday was used to commemorate those killed just in the Civil War, not in any other American conflict. It wasn’t until America’s entry into World War I that the tradition was expanded to include those killed in all wars, and Memorial Day was not officially recognized nationwide until the 1970s, with America deeply embroiled in the Vietnam War. It was a long road from Decoration Day to an official Memorial Day. Although the term Memorial Day was used beginning in the 1880s, the holiday was officially known as Decoration Day for more than a century, when it was changed by federal law. Four years later, the Uniform Monday Holiday Act of 1968 finally went into effect, moving Memorial Day from its traditional observance on May 30 (regardless of the day of the week), to a set day—the last Monday in May. The move has not been without controversy, though. Veterans groups, concerned that more Americans associate the holiday with first long weekend of the summer and not its intended purpose to honor the nation’s war dead, continue to lobby for a return to the May 30 observances. For more than 20 years, their cause was championed by Hawaiian Senator—and decorated World War II veteran—Daniel Inouye, who until his 2012 death reintroduced legislation in support of the change at the start of every Congressional term. More than 20 towns claim to be the holiday’s “birthplace”—but only one has federal recognition. For almost as long as there’s been a holiday, there’s been a rivalry about who celebrated it first. Boalsburg, Pennsylvania, bases its claim on an 1864 gathering of women to mourn those recently killed at Gettysburg. In Carbondale, Illinois, they’re certain that they were first, thanks to an 1866 parade led, in part, by John Logan who two years later would lead the charge for an official holiday. There are even two dueling Columbus challengers (one in Mississippi, the other in Georgia) who have battled it out for Memorial Day supremacy for decades. Only one town, however, has received the official seal of approval from the U.S. government. In 1966, 100 years after the town of Waterloo, New York, shuttered its businesses and took to the streets for the first of many continuous, community-wide celebrations, President Lyndon Johnson signed legislation, recently passed by the U.S. Congress, declaring the tiny upstate village the “official” birthplace of Memorial Day. Wearing a red poppy on Memorial Day began with a World War I poem. In the spring of 1915, bright red flowers began poking through the battle-ravaged land across northern France and Flanders (northern Belgium). Canadian Lieutenant Colonel John McCrae, who served as a brigade surgeon for an Allied artillery unit, spotted a cl*ster of the poppies shortly after serving as a brigade surgeon during the bl*ody Second Battle of Ypres. The sight of the bright red flowers against the dreary backdrop of war inspired McCrae to pen the poem, “In Flanders Field,” in which he gives voice to the soldiers who had been killed in battle and lay buried beneath the poppy-covered grounds. Later that year, a Georgia teacher and volunteer war worker named Moina Michael read the poem in Ladies’ Home Journal and wrote her own poem, “We Shall Keep the Faith” to begin a campaign to make the poppy a symbol of tribute to all who died in war. The poppy remains a symbol of remembrance to this day. Memorial Day traditions have evolved over the years. Despite the increasing celebration of the holiday as a summer rite of passage, there are some formal rituals still on the books: The American flag should be hung at half-staff until noon on Memorial Day, then raised to the top of the staff. And since 2000, when the U.S. Congress passed legislation, all Americans are encouraged to pause for a National Moment of Remembrance at 3 p.m. local time. The federal government has also used the holiday to honor non-veterans—the Lincoln Memorial was dedicated on Memorial Day 1922. BY BARBARA MARANZANI The post 8 Things You May Not Know About Memorial Day appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
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  7. In coordination with the state of Indiana, AMA’s campground is scheduled to open on May 22. Since the museum and AMA headquarters will be remain closed to the public and members, we will be managing camping through phone-in registration. During normal business hours call 765-287-1256, ext. 261 prior to your arrival. Payment should be made in advance. You will be assigned a camping spot (no switching) If arriving after normal business hours, up until 7 p.m. and no earlier 9 a.m., please call and leave a message at 765-749-9210, and we will return your call to complete the registration. With your cooperation, we can have a successful and safe reopening of our campsites! We will try our best to mark campsites that have been reserved. Please pay attention to make sure that you are not parking in a reserved site. We encourage everyone to wear a mask, stay 6 feet from away each other, and have plenty of hand sanitizer. We are trying our best to conduct extra sanitation in the bathrooms, but require that you assist us by wiping down surfaces to ensure the safety of all guests and members. Enjoy yourself, be safe, and practice social distancing! Questions? Please call 765-287-1256, ext. 261 or ext. 200. View the full article
  8. The Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA) remembers President Emeritus Robert L. “Bob” Brown for his deep love for model aviation, as well as his many contributions and service to AMA. Bob sadly passed away after a brief illness on May 14, 2020. “Bob’s contributions to AMA and the model aviation community are many and span his entire adult life. He served this community tirelessly, advocating for the hobby he loved dearly,” said Rich Hanson, president of AMA. “Words cannot express our gratitude to Bob for his service to AMA through his advocacy and leadership. Bob was both a colleague, a role model and a friend and he will be sorely missed.” Bob Brown served as president of AMA for two terms from 2012 to 2016. Before that, he served AMA in various capacities for more than 30 years, including as Fédération Aéronautique Internationale (FAI) subcommittee chairman, chairman of the AMA Publications Committee and as the AMA District III vice president for 21 years. Bob was a longtime member of the Southern Tier Aero Radio Society (STARS) club in western New York. In November 2016, Bob and his wife, JoAnne, were presented the AMA Outstanding Service Award for Couples in recognition and appreciation of their consistent, selfless and untiring service to AMA. In 2017, Bob was awarded the prestigious FAI Aeromodeling Gold medal for his service as an FAI Jury Member at the World and Continental Championships, as F3D Subcommittee Chairman from 1984 to 2009, as the National Airsport Control Delegate to the United States from 2011 to 2016 and for his role as president of AMA. Bob began flying model aircraft at age six in his hometown of Bradford, Pennsylvania. He enjoyed attending the MultiGP International Open and many other events held at the International Aeromodeling Center. In addition to modeling, Bob also enjoyed toying with his garden railroad and automobile racing. Donations to the Cliff and Nancy Telford Scholarship Fund are being accepted in Bob’s honor. The scholarship is awarded annually to a youth AMA member who shows dedication to the hobby through participation in compet*tion activity at a national or international level. Donations in Bob’s honor can be made here. AMA recently honored Bob’s legacy and on the podcast AMA Air. View the full article
  9. JShumate

    Storing Large Models

    Models airplanes are graceful in the air, but often can be clunky, bulky, and hard to handle on the ground. These characteristics make finding a m*thod of storing a large number of them rather difficult, especially when preservation needs, som*thing such as protecting them from light, dust, pests, and bad handling come into play. At the National Model Aviation Museum, we’ve utilized our ceiling as a storage space, hanging models in custom–made bridles. Heavier, larger models find homes on shelves. The museum staff have handling procedures in place that guide how the models are hung and removed from their hooks to prevent handling damage, and acid-free tissue wrapping that keeps light, dust, and moisture at bay. Here’s how we wrap our models for storage in our collection: First, gather your supplies. Gather your supplies and prep them in a place with lots of room to work. We use acid-free tissue, inert, double-sided tape, str*ps of plastic sheet, and a good pair of scissors. You might use clean, unbleached muslin, cotton twine, and a good pair of scissors. Cut the wrapping material and start to place it around the fuselage. Cut the wrapping material and wrap it around the largest section of the fuselage making sure to cut out areas for c*ckpits and other irregular pieces. Make sure the covering material is wrapped evenly and tightly. Make sure the wrapping is tight and covers each section of the fuselage equally. Double-sided tape and str*ps of plastic sheeting hold the covering material in place. We use str*ps of plastic sheeting closed with double-sided tape to hold the wrapping material in place. Tied cotton twine would work just as well. Wrap the tail surfaces. Third, cover the horizontal and vertical stabilizers, and any other uncovered pieces of the fuselage. Wrapping these areas can often be tricky because of their smaller sizes and unusual shapes. Folding the covering material to fit the shapes helps, as do patience and lots of straps holding the material in place. Use smaller pieces of covering material to cover any unreached spots. Use smaller pieces to cover surfaces not reached by the bigger pieces of tissue. Cut the material to the right size and cover the wing. Cover the wing sections the same way you covered the fuselage. It is important to wrap each section evenly and equally so there is no mismatched fading. The model, ready to find its home in storage. Once you’ve covered every part of the model, it is ready to place it storage. Some models are stored in wing racks. Wing racks mounted on walls are a convenient, space-friendly m*thod of storing models. Make sure the supports are close enough together to support the pieces, yet wide enough to protect against pressure damage. Have questions?  Get in touch with us at museum@modelaircraft.org! View the full article
  10. MORE EPISODES >> View the full article
  11. This fun, easy to build front yard flyer is designed by Tim Bailiff, (Photos by Maggie Madril.) Ever since I was young, I have been drawn to small model airplanes. While my friends built big, I always built small. In those days my airplanes could best be described as smallish. However now, with brushless and coreless electric motors, modern batteries and micro-electronics, truly small (micro) airplanes are a reality! My goal was to keep it small, interesting and scale. Did I say scale? Well, yes. Electric flight enthusiasts will recognize the familiar lines of the popular “Slow Stick”. So using micro components taken from a Mini Vapor, I built a one ounce, 1/4-scale version which I named the Quarter Stick. This miniature Stick really is loads of fun. It is super simple to build, fun and easy to fly and can be enjoyed both indoors and out. It’s just fun from start to finish. In addition, you’ll find it to be a great conversation piece at your flying field. So, if this all intrigues you, then read on. Getting Started Here are a few tips. First, I suggest you read through this entire article before you start building. Pay special attention to the material list, as you may already have much of what you’ll need. Also, try not to use an excessive amount of glue. Lighter models fly better, especially small ones! If you wish to color any wooden pieces, use permanent markers. Ink covers super well and weigh nothing! Pay attention to the CG (center of gravity). Finally, take your time and enjoy the build. Free full-size plans/templates are on a single, easy to download, 8.5 x 11 inch sheet. Go to: (modelairplanenews.com/quarterstick). To download plane, click below. Quarter Stick PDF Plan Material List 1) 1 Horizon Hobby (EFLU6807) All-In-One receiver unit. 2) 12 in.x12 in. 2mm Depron foam sheet. 3) 6x15mm Tiny Whoop Special Sauce coreless (17,000kv) motor. 4) 180mAh (or similar) 1S 3.7V lipo battery. 5) 1 ¾ in. (45mm) Tiny Whoop Gemfan propeller. 6) 1 roll 2 in. wide colored packaging tape 7) 1 roll 1 in. wide clear packaging tape 8) 1 roll 1 in. Blenderm medical tape 9) 12 in. .050 carbon fiber rod 10) 18 in. .040 carbon fiber rod 11) 12 in. .030carbon fiber rod 12) 12 in. 1/32 in. clear heat shrink tubing 13) 8 in. .015 in. piano wire 14) 3 in. .032 in. piano wire 15) 2 in. x 2 in. 1/32 in. plywood 16) 1 in. x1 in. 1/16 in. plywood 17) 2 #0 x 1/4 in. pan head scr*ws 18) 2 GWS 5/8 in. Micro Wheels 19) .05 in. Male Nano-Connector Obviously you will also need a Spektrum, or similar, DSM2/DSMX transmitter. You will also need 5 minute epoxy and CA (both thin and medium, plus kicker). There are also a few “scr*p bin” items I will mention as needed. Now, if you find you must purchase som*thing, I suggest you visit your local hobby retailer first. In these tough economic times I know they would appreciate your business. If, however, they fail to have what you need, the internet is always an option. At the Building Board Use the plans as templates to mark all foam pieces on the 2mm Depron sheet. I suggest you join your left and right wings together and then cut them out as a single piece. Next, cut out your tail feathers. Take your time and try to make nice clean edges. Use the templates as a guide to remove the elevator and rudder where indicated. Now bevel (cut) both the right leading edge of the rudder and the underside leading edge of the elevator, back at about a 45-degree angle. Hinging Since you have them at hand, go ahead and hinge both your rudder and elevator to their respective stabilizers. Use sufficient lengths of ¼ inch wide Blenderm medical tape to cover their entire hinge lines. Hinge the elevator on its top side and the rudder on its left side. Be sure to leave a slight gap to allow for free movement in all directions. Wing Prep Now, let’s give your little wing its graceful airfoil. I suggest you first cut out your 1/8 inch balsa “Wing Pylon” to help you gage the correct airfoil shape. Said shape is crafted by carefully rolling the forward underside of the wing on a 1 ¼ inch dowel. I actually used a closet rod, but any similarly sized rod or dowel would work fine. Begin by placing the wing span wise along the top of the dowel. Now gently, but firmly apply downward pressure from above, while slowly rolling the forward 1/3 portion of the wing back and forth. Allow the dowel to roll as well. Work carefully so you don’t cr*ck the foam. Be patient. It may take a little time to get that nice even downward curve along your entire wing. When done properly, the top of your wing will remain smooth, but interestingly, you will find many micro creases have formed on the underside. That’s exactly what you want, because these tiny ceases keep that nice airfoil shape in place. Next you will be prepping the wings for dihedral. Start by carefully cutting your wing exactly in half, giving yourself a left and right wing panel. Now prop each wing tip up 5/8 inch and carefully sand both center sections vertical and flat. Consider using the edge of your work bench as a guide. It doesn’t take much, so fine sand paper works well. When joined together, you should have a nice smooth joint with no gaps, but don’t glue together just yet. Covering Now it’s time to cover your wings and tail feathers. This is a very simple process using 2 inch colored packaging tape. I chose red because that’s the color of most of the full size Slow Sticks and I wanted mine to look scale. Obviously you can choose any color you’d like. The little 3 inch wide wings are covered by carefully applying lengths of the 2 inch tape to the top of them span wise. It’s important NOT to change the shape of the airfoil or warp the wings. I suggest you support the underside of each wing as you cover it. Also, should the need arise, the 2 inch tape can be carefully removed from the foam, BEFORE it is rubbed down. That being said, after the first piece is successfully applied, carefully b*tt the second piece against it lengthwise. Work carefully and when you are satisfied, then gently rub the tape down…but don’t change the shape of that airfoil! Now trim neatly and your wings are done. BTW, I chose to only cover the tops of my wings, again keeping it scale. Now, when covering your tail surfaces plan to do both sides. The m*thod I found that worked great was to lay down a length of tape sticky side up and then gently set the little tail feathers onto it. If things don’t go as planned, you can carefully peal them off and try again. Once you are satisfied, then thoroughly rub the tape down keeping it flat and bubble free. Then, carefully trim the tape to shape, making nice clean cuts. Finally, flip over and repeat. BTW, you will find it covers over the Blenderm hinges nicely too. Done! Wing Assembly Now that your wings are covered, you can assemble them! First lay one wing down flat and secure to your building surface. Next apply a thin layer of 5 minute epoxy to the other wing’s center section. Now carefully align both center sections and gently join together. You will need to prop the unsecured wingtip up 1 ¼ inch for the correct amount of dihedral. Your wing joint should now be properly aligned, with no gap. Gently wipe off any excess glue and allow to set. Ok, now add the two 4½ inch lengths of .040 carbon fiber rod to each wing’s leading edge. Begin by securing each rod in place with a very, light smear of epoxy. Also place a tiny drop where the rods touch in the center. Check for alignment as the glue sets. Then use a 1 inch wide 4½ inch length of clear packing tape to smoothly wrap each leading edge. This will greatly strengthen your wing and help minimize those unwanted leading edge dings and dents that invariably happen. Use the construction photos to help clarify. Finally, while supporting the wing inverted, epoxy the 1/8 inch balsa wing pylon to the underside of the wing, right along the joint. Align the front of the pylon with the wing’s leading edge. Because you want it to secure both wing halves, use a sufficient, yet reasonable, amount of epoxy. Now, as the glue sets, be sure the pylon remains aligned, centered and is perpendicular to your building surface. BTW, you will notice the front of the pylon is ¼ inch higher than the rear. It is designed that way to provide the proper incidence for your wing. Airframe Assembly This is where your ¼ Stick really starts to take shape. Begin by cutting an 8 inch length of .050 carbon fiber rod. This is you fuselage. To the bottom side of one end, epoxy your horizontal stabilizer as indicated in the plans. I suggest you remove a very narrow str*p of covering so the rod attaches directly to the foam. To the top of that same rod end, epoxy your vertical fin. As the glue sets, be sure your tail feathers remain straight, vertical and aligned. Now is a good time to make and install your two 1/32 inch plywood control horns. Use your template page for the proper size and shape. The push rod holes are positioned as indicated and are .015 inch in diameter. The rudder horn goes on the left side of the rudder ¼ inch above the elevator. The elevator horn mounts on the top of the elevator ¼ inch to the right of the rudder. Use the templates to help with proper positioning. Note, they both angle slightly forward toward their hinge lines. Also, I used black marker to color mine before I epoxied them into place. Measure back 1 1/8 inch from the very front of your carbon fiber fuselage rod. That is where you will position the leading edge of your wing and pylon. You can use either medium CA or epoxy to glue the pylon there. As the glue sets, be certain your wings remain level, aligned with the fuselage and the tail feathers. Be certain the pylon remains in position as well. Nice work! Landing Gear Assembly The landing gear is up next. To start, locate the pattern on the template sheet labeled “Landing Gear Bracket”. Cut out two pieces using 1/32 inch plywood. The landing gear struts are made by cutting two 2¼ inch pieces of .040 carbon fiber rod. Now, using the diagram on the template sheet, sandwich the landing gear rods between the two ply landing gear brackets. Use enough 5 minute epoxy to completely fill the gap between the brackets. After the epoxy has set, sand off any excess glue and then drill the .050 inch mounting hole in the bracket where indicated. Again I used marker to color mine black. Let’s work now on the lower end of the landing gear. The 2 wire axels are cut and bent, using .032 inch music wire. Again, the proper angle and length can be found on the template page. Now using ½ inch pieces of heat shrink tubing, attach the axels to the ends of the carbon fiber rods. Make sure both axels point directly away from one another and remain parallel. After the tubing has cooled, check the alignment and then put a tiny drop of thin CA at the top of each piece of tubing . Allow it to wick down between the carbon fiber rod and wire axels. This will secure the axels in place. OK, time to mount your 5/8 inch GWS wheels. I used small pieces of wire insulation as keepers on both sides of each wheel. This holds the wheels nicely in place. A tiny drip of CA on the end of each keeper held them on securely. Hint: You don’t want any CA to wick along your axels and get to your wheels. Not good! So, put a drop of kicker on the end of your keepers first. When the CA is applied, it sets up almost instantly and won’t wick into unwanted places. Mounting the finished landing gear assembly is super easy. Simply slip the hole in the bracket over the front of your carbon fiber fuselage. Slide the landing gear back until the bracket touches the front of the wing pylon. Now use medium CA to glue in place. Be sure not to allow the CA to touch any foam. Once again be sure the wings remain level and the landing gear squarely aligned as the glue sets. BTW, I found looking down, past the leading edge of the wings very helpful when aligning the landing gear. Finally, use .015 inch music wire to fashion the tail skid, per the template page. Use medium CA to attach it to the bottom of the fuselage, ahead of the horizontal stabilizer. Kicker helps here. Again be sure not to allow the CA or kicker to touch any foam. Beautiful…nice job! Electronics The all-in-one receiver unit is the heart and soul of your ¼ Stick. This little gem includes a DSM receiver, 2A speed control and two linear servos all mounted on a circuit board smaller than a US postage stamp! Although available at Horizon Hobby (EFLU6807), I harvested mine from a well used, but not abused Parkzone Mini Vapor. They can also be found on the UMX Vapor Lite as well. Now, before your receiver unit can be mounted, there is one small soldering modification needed. It requires that you unsolder the existing motor leads and replace them with a .05 inch Male Nano-Connector. I purchased mine online. The two soldering points are small and quite close together, but it’s very doable. It requires a pencil soldering tip, a fairly steady hand, but most of all patience. Also, don’t forget to tin your Nano-Connector before soldering it in place. When completed, it will allow you to easily connect and if necessary, reposition your motor leads. Now, the receiver unit should be mounted on the bottom of the fuselage, under the wing, 1 inch behind the leading edge. The servos should face down with their gears facing forward. The newly soldered Nano Connector should be facing forward as well. Although the easiest way to secure the receiver unit might be to hot glue it into place, I chose to make it removable. Begin by making a single 1/8 inch wide x ½ inch long mounting bracket from 1/32 inch plywood. Drill the two 1/32 inch pilot holes where indicated. Next epoxy it to the underside of the receiver unit leaving both pilot holes visible, protruding straight out toward the rear, a good ¼ inch The the remainder of the bracket should be located beneath and between the servos. See construction photos. Next make the ¼ inch W x ½ inch L mounting plate from a scr*p piece of 1/8 inch balsa as shown on the template. Strengthen it by wiping a small drip of thin CA onto it, allowing it to soak in. I used a little kicker on mine so it set quickly. Then use medium CA to glue it to the fuselage bottom as shown in the construction photos and on the template sheet. Now carefully position your receiver and bracket over the mounting plate, and then drill through the two bracket pilot holes, into the balsa mount. Note that the holes are drilled slightly off center so as not to damage the carbon fiber fuselage. Finally, use two #0 x ¼ inch pan head scr*ws to gently secure the little receiver squarely in place. There is one more step I recommend at this time. Power up your receiver unit, with your little 180mAh, single cell, LiPo battery and bind it to your transmitter. I have a Spektrum DX7 V2, but of course any transmitter with the same DSM2 or X signaling protocol is fine. After a successful bind, simply center the little linear servos using your trim settings. That’s it! Remove the battery, turn of your transmitter and let’s move on. Pushrods The 2 little push rods are made of 4 ½ inch lengths of .030 carbon fiber rod with 1 inch lengths of Z bent .015 inch music wire attached to both ends. The 4 wire ends are secured to the carbon fiber rods using ¼ inch lengths of 1/32 inch heat shrink tubing. After the tubing has cooled, gently twist and remove the two Z bent wire ends that will attach to the elevator and rudder control horns. Now connect the pushrods, with the still attached wire ends, to the servos. Next attach the loose Z bent wire ends to the control horns and carefully slide the straight ends back under the heat shrink on the push rods. Now, gently center the rudder and elevator by slowly sliding the wire ends in or out under the heat shrink tubing. When both control surfaces are centered, check that all the Z bends are aligned properly. Finally, place a very, VERY small amount of thin CA on the carbon fiber ends, where the wire ends enter the heat shrink. This will wick in and secure the carbon fiber and wire ends together. Need mention getting any CA on your servos? Not good, as it will instantly destroy them! Motor Mount The motor mount is made next, using 1/16 inch plywood. The pattern for it appears on the template page. Once made, use medium CA to glue it to the front, top of a 1 3/8 inch length of .050 carbon fiber rod. I again used Magic Marker to color the plywood mount black. Then use medium CA to glue the short carbon fiber rod to the underside and parallel to the existing carbon fiber rod, protruding from the landing gear bracket. The plywood motor mount should face up with the back end of the short rod touching the landing gear bracket. See construction photos. Now run a small bead of CA along either side of the carbon fiber rods to insure a good secure connection. Special Sauce Motor Now it’s time to mount the little 17,000kv Tiny Whoop Special Sauce motor. This little coreless 6mm x 15mm, motor was purchased at Tinywhoop.com. Likewise the cute little 1 3/4 inch (45mm) Gemfan propeller can be purchased there as well. The ply motor mount is designed to provide about 6 degrees of down thr*st. However, you will also need to offset the motor itself, several degrees to the right when it’s mounted. It may not seem like much, but it does the job. Next, decide what part of the motor housing will be the bottom and lightly rough it up with a little sand paper. That will give the metal housing some tooth for the glue to adhere to. I also suggest you press the propeller on now before you mount the motor. It’s a snug fit, so be careful not to bend the prop shaft. Nicely done! Now, use literally a touch of medium CA to first tack the motor into position, on top of the mount. It’s simple to readjust if you haven’t used too much glue. When satisfied, carefully run a small bead of the CA along both sides of the motor. Once again, avoid at all cost, allowing any CA to get on the prop shaft. Using kicker is a good idea here. I finished with a ½ inch piece of Blenderm wrapped over the motor and pressed down onto the mount. One nice thing about the Special Sauce motors is they come with a connector on their lead wire. Be gentle as you push the connector onto the .05 inch Nano Connector you soldered onto your receiver unit. FYI, you may need to unscr*w and remove the receiver to do this. Seriously, be careful when connecting the motor lead. Those two little solder joints can’t take much pressure. Now, once the motor lead is connected, it’s time to test it. Turn on your transmitter and power up your receiver unit. If as you advance the throttle, the motor spins the prop in the correct direction, you are golden. If not, simply unplug the motor lead, turn the connector over and push it back on…carefully. Now, gently remount your receiver and check that your pushrods are still in position. Then, route your motor leads back from the motor along your fuselage using a few tiny pieces of Blenderm along the way. You will likely have a little extra motor wire back by the receiver, so secure it out if the way, against the wing pylon. Secure the Battery The battery attachment locations are the last things to deal with. First cut two ½ inch x 3/8 inch pieces of 1/32 inch balsa as shown on the template. Now use medium CA to glue them both in front and behind the landing gear bracket. Again, use the photos for clarity as needed. After the glue has set, stick the fuzzy side of one self-adhesive Mini Velcro Dot Fastener onto both battery locations. Then, stick the hook side of one fastener onto your battery. The reason for two attachment locations is it works out nicely for balancing. Should you choose, it also enables you to place smaller lipo batteries (80mAh etc.) at the forward location and larger lipo batteries (180mAh etc.) at the rear location. In other words, it allows for some flexibility when balancing your plane. Hey my friend, you are done! Preflight Check I hope you enjoyed building your ¼ Stick. Now all that remains is the preflight. First check the center of gravity (C/G). Your plane should balance 1 inch back from the leading edge. A little nose heavy is OK. A little tail heavy… not so much. Next, turn on your transmitter, power up your plane and check that the control surfaces are still centered and move freely in the correct direction. I suggest that you initially set your rudder throw to move ½ inch in either direction. Then set your elevator to move ¼ inch up and 1/8inch down. You can adjust the throws more to your liking after your first few flights. Finally check that the motor powers up and hey, your preflight is done! At The Flying Field What fun awaits you! This is the moment you’ve been waiting for. Your ¼ Stick is ready for its maiden flight! Pick a nice clear morning for your first flight. Still air would be best, but your little plane can handle a slight breeze as well. Might I also suggest flying over grass as well. If you are a frequent flyer, then you are all set! If not, consider asking a flying buddy with a little more time for a check ride. There is never any shame in playing it safe! Now fasten your seatbelt, call the tower and tell them you are ready for takeoff. When cleared, simply head into the wind and give it full throttle. You’ll find that your ¼ Stick can take off from the ground exceptionally well. Expect a ground roll so short it can literally be measured in inches rather than feet. With even the slightest head wind, your plane will seemly hop off the ground. Once airborne, allow your ¼ Stick to climb to a reasonable height and then throttle back. That little motor provides more than enough power, so you can conserve your battery. Now trim for straight and level flight. As you get the feel of your new ¼ Stick, you will find it maneuverable yet easy to fly. BTW, I suggest you keep it in pretty close. Although it’s not fast, it is very small and that’s a really big sky you are playing in! When you feel confident, try some gentle aerobatics. It will do 2 foot loops from level flight and turn on a dime. At a little higher altitude, mine does the cutest little spins and I’ve been able to do some interesting looking rudder rolls. Now, when the motor starts to pulse, that’s your signal to head back to the runway. As you line up on short final, reduce throttle and fly it all the way to the ground. If there is a slight headwind, you may need to use more power to help carry you in. When your plane is just a few inches above the runway, cut the power and gently flair. Nice landing! In The Pilot Lounge You did very well! Congratulations on a successful first flight. Fun wasn’t it? I’m sure your fellow pilots will get a kick out of your new ¼ Stick and have some questions for you. Encourage them to build one as well. It’s easy to build, fun to fly and a breeze to transport! Plus, it’s scale!!!  Don’t forget, you can fly it inside as well. Enjoy you’re your time in the air my friend. I wish you much success and many happy landings. Fun stuff… The post DIY Micro RC Flyer – Quarter Stick appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  12. The Academy of Model Aeronautics’ Education department is pleased to present AMA Jr. Camp this year! In lieu of an in-person experience, the AMA Jr. Camp will be fully virtual, and lessons will cater to youth ages 5–12 to provide a fun and educational introduction to the concepts of aviation. In the afternoons, we will host conversations with aviation professionals who have a passion for model aviation. These conversations will be open to everyone and will be som*thing people of all ages won’t want to miss. Jr. Camp AMA will place July 6–10, 2020. Below is a list of frequently asked questions. Feel free to email us at education@modelaircraft.org if you have any additional questions about AMA Jr. Camp! What is AMA Jr. Camp? AMA Jr. Camp is an online, virtual camp experience, developed and presented by the Academy of Model Aeronautics. It is designed to be a fun, preparatory course for youth ages 5-12 to learn model aviation fundamentals that will help to prepare them for future, more advanced aeromodeling opportunities. The presentation will include conversations with aviation professionals who have a passion for model aviation. For what age group is AMA Jr. Camp intended? The focus of the morning activities is for children ages 5-12, and all ages will enjoy the conversations later in the day. When will AMA Jr. Camp take place? AMA Jr. Camp will take place July 6–10, 2020. There will be daily morning and afternoon sessions. The morning session will revolve around educational, STEM-based activities and the afternoon session will involve interviews with professionals in the aerospace industry who got their start through model aviation. These sessions will occur at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. EDT respectively. How much does AMA Jr. Camp cost? While registration for AMA Jr. Camp is free, in order to receive the AMA Jr. Camp Flight Pack which contains not only project instructions but also most of the materials needed to complete the STEM-based activities each morning, you will be prompted to pay $35 per child upon registration. Please note that there are only enough materials per Flight Pack for one camper, so multiple Flight Packs are recommended for families signing up multiple children. Do I have to purchase a Flight Pack? No, but in order to ensure that you have all the materials on hand for the activities, it is recommended that you do. We will release a materials list before Jr. Camp to allow families to source appropriate materials. Does purchasing a Flight Pack register me for AMA Jr. Camp? No, you must also register your child for AMA Jr. Camp in addition to purchasing the kit. Registration for camp is free, however, the Flight Pack is not. When will I receive my Flight Pack? The AMA will begin sending out Flight Packs two weeks before AMA Jr. Camp in order to ensure timely arrival of the materials. Tracking numbers will be made available upon request. Does my child have to be an AMA member to participate in AMA Jr. Camp? No, but we encourage signing your child up to be an AMA Youth Member! Children and young adults under 19 as of July 1, 2020, receive free youth membership. You can sign your child up for a free Youth Membership at www.modelaircraft.org/membership/membership-options/academy-model-aeronautics-youth-membership. How will you protect my child’s privacy? Who has access to the AMA Jr. Camp videos? As with all use of the internet by a minor, we recommend you supervise your child when participating in AMA Jr. Camp. Not only will this help guarantee a safe online environment for them, but you will also get to be a part of camp and do all the activities your child does! The morning session of AMA Jr. Camp will be hosted within a private video chat that can only be accessed by a link we provide to the parents of our campers. AMA staff will be on camera, guiding you and your child(ren) through the projects. Neither you nor your child will be on camera, but we encourage you to utilize the chat function and comment on the livestream if you have any questions about the activities. The afternoon session of AMA Jr. Camp, which will consist of interviews with aerospace professionals, will be more widely accessible via Facebook and YouTube. Again, we encourage you to utilize the chat function and comment on the livestream to submit questions for our panelists. Will the traditional Camp AMA take place next year? Yes! We are planning to conduct the in-person Camp AMA in 2021. This weeklong camp is open to 13– to 17–year–olds who are interested in getting started in aeromodeling and have prior experience in flying RC models. Not only will campers enjoy a week of flying at the International Aeromodeling Center in Muncie, Indiana, but they will also receive guidance, mentorship, and instruction from world-class RC pilots and aerospace professionals. To complete the camp experience, we’ll be rounding out the week with a super fun pool party, a delicious barbecue cookout, and exciting night flying! View the full article
  13. Matt and Claire are streaming LIVE on this episode of AMA Air on Friday, May 15th at 2 p.m. EDT. CLICK HERE to go to YouTube and set a reminder to watch LIVE! Featuring the latest updates for Camp AMA, I Fly AMA announcements, and a guest appearance by Model Aviation and Park Pilot Executive Editor Jay Smith to discuss the June Digital Edition! LINKS from the episode: https://www.modelaviation.com/digital https://www.amaflightschool.org/campama https://www.facebook.com/groups/iflyama https://www.modelaircraft.org/expotop10 https://www.modelaircraft.org/land https://www.facebook.com/modelaviation https://www.modelaircraft.org/join View the full article
  14. JShumate

    AMA Jr. Camp

    The in-person Camp AMA 2020 Experience has changed from an in-person gathering to a virtual experience this year. We’re calling it the “AMA Jr. Camp.” This will be a fun, preparatory course for youth ages 5-12, to learn model aviation fundamentals that will help to prepare them for advanced aeromodeling opportunities in the future. Virtual camp will take place July 6-10, 2020. Participation is completely free and many of the activities can be done using items that most homes will have on hand. We will present Science, Technology, Engineering, Artistic, and Mathematic (STE[A]M) challenges each morning that are fun and educational. Every afternoon we will host live conversations with leaders in the aviation industry. The best way to be sure you have access to all of the fun and excitement that our AMA Jr. Camp has to offer is to sign up to receive an AMA Jr. Camp flight pack! It contains the necessary instructions, materials, and tools you’ll need to participate in one package. The cost for each kit is only $5 to the first 50 registrants. After the first 50 registrants, the cost will increase to $35 per kit. The first 50 kits are being offered at such a low rate through generous community support. Register online to secure your flight pack today. You can register for our virtual camp for free here. Of course, we’ll be back in person for CAMP AMA 2021, so be prepared to pack your bags and visit the International Aeromodeling Center in Muncie, Indiana, next year! Special thanks to NewBeeDrone, BetaFPV, NASA Subscale Model Team at the Armstrong Flight Research Center, Drones In School Program, Electric Jet Aircraft, Horizon Hobby, Hampton Inns & Suites, and all of our community partners. Sincerely, The AMA Education Team. Claire, Julia, and Kyle View the full article
  15. We have the best readers, and we love your unique ways of making building and assembling RC planes easier. Here are a few of our favorites; bet you’ll use at least one on your next project! (Have a tip you’d like to share? Send it to MAN@airage.com!) CLEAR GLUE TO THE RESCUE Sometimes a hard landing means you’ll need to repair your indoor flier. For models that have plastic struts and other fine attachment points, Bob Smith Industries’ Foam-Cure is an ideal repair adhesive. Squeeze out some glue on a notepad, use a toothpick to apply a very small amount to the affected parts, and tape them together for about 10 minutes. The adhesive dries clear and flexible—and it is foam-safe. EASY DEANS Many folks use Deans connectors with their electric planes but find them difficult to disconnect. A small reversible pair of snap-ring pliers can do the trick. Drill a small hole in each half of the Deans connector so that the pliers fit. Use caution, and do not drill all the way through the connectors—just deep enough for the points of the pliers to do their job. CHEAP RACK Need a way to hang up model parts but don’t want to spend a lot of money? You can find a folding metal clothes rack at a local home-supply store. It cost less than $20 and is strong, compact, and perfect for drying painted plane parts. TOOLBOX SECURITY Avoid dumping your tools all over the place by getting in the habit of attaching a small carabiner clip to the locking hole on your toolbox. This is especially helpful as the toolbox ages and the plastic latch doesn’t hold as well. The post RC Model Workshop Tips appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  16. If you follow full-scale aerobatics, there is another maneuver that goes by a similar name, but it is called the Pugachev Cobra. The Pugachev Cobra shows post-stall maneuvering as it displays an abrupt pitch change and a high angle of attack. The Pugachev Cobra is very similar to the common “3D” maneuver, the “Wall,” where the model will transition abruptly from horizontal upright level flight to a vertical situation instantly with a hard pull on the elevator control surface. However, unlike the Pugachev Cobra, the model will not return back to upright level flight after performing the “Wall.” MANEUVER OVERVIEW This maneuver begins from upright level flight in a manner that is parallel to the runway. Keep in mind that this maneuver also has to be centered on the pilot. This means that the top of this aerobatic move should be performed directly in front of the pilot. While travelling parallel to the runway, increase the throttle to maximum power and pull to a 45-degree upline. Then, show a brief line and perform a half roll to an inverted 45-degree climb. Once a line segment that is the same length of the first line segment is performed, pull 90 degrees to a 45-degree downline. Again, show a brief line segment and perform a half roll to an upright 45-degree downline. Please note that the two half rolls must be centered on the line segments! When nearing your entry altitude, perform a radius to upright level fight at the same altitude in which the maneuver began at. Before tackling a stunt like the Cobra, you must become proficient with inverted flight and the necessary corrections needed to keep your model on heading, and the reason is quite simple. While this may appear to be a fairly easy maneuver to perform, it will take time to perfect due to the notion that many different elements exist. For example, this maneuver combines upright and inverted flight all incorporated within a geometric shape, a triangle! Now, let’s simplify the control inputs needed and divide this maneuver into four steps: STEP 1: Orient your model in a manner that is parallel to the runway at your normal base altitude. With a model like the Park-Zone Extra 300, you should fly your base altitude at about 100 feet for the best possible presentation of this maneuver. Please note that the power setting needed to perform this maneuver will vary from model to model as all power-to-weight ratios differ. On a typical model, 75% throttle is needed for this maneuver. Resulting, apply this throttle setting and begin a gradual pull to a 45-degree upline about 150 feet before the model approaches you. STEP 2: Now that the model is on a 45-degree upline, a 1/2 roll will need to be centered on the 45-degree climb portion of this maneuver. I recommend that you count to two (allowing a two-second, 45-degree upline), perform a 1/2 roll, and count to two again. Using the “counting” m*thod will give you equal spacing provided that little to no wind exists and that the model is flying a constant speed. As the model approaches the pilot, you will need to pull back ever so slightly to “pull” the model to a 45-degree downline and decrease the throttle setting from anywhere between idle and 25% power. The center of this radius should be directly in front of you, the pilot. STEP 3: A 1/2 roll will need to be performed on the center of the entire downward segment of this maneuver. Either use the “counting” m*thod that we discussed in the previous step, or, visually perform the 1/2 roll in the center of the downward segment. After this 1/2 roll is performed, you can gradually increase the throttle slightly to maintain airspeed if need be. STEP 4: Lastly, you will need to perform a gentle radius (the same size as the first radius) to upright level flight. Once level flight is established, please return the throttle setting to 75% power and prepare to give this maneuver another try! Since you have just learned all of the control inputs needed to perform this maneuver in the perfect world, let’s discuss wind and torque. You may find that at times, you will need to hold rudder input (usually right rudder due to engine torque) throughout the maneuver. If there is no wind present, make all necessary rudder corrections to keep the model in a manner that is parallel to the runway. If wind exists, and especially a crosswind, you should strive to keep your model’s flight path parallel to the runway. For example, the airplane can be leaned 5 degrees out (in other words, the model’s nose will be leaning into the wind) so that the airplane will not deviate in flight path. In summary, no matter what type of wind is present, make all necessary corrections to ensure the best possible presentation of the figure as we have described. The post Flight Technique: Cobra with 1/2 Rolls appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  17. Mark your calendars, set that reminder or click that notification. Let’s build multirotors! Join AMA’s Digital Experience Lead and Executive Producer of AMA Air, Dillon Carpenter, live Tuesday, May 12 at 2 p.m., as he builds out a ReadyMade RC Strix Screech multirotor frame. Learn the basics of soldering, programming, and some electrical engineering on this multi-part series. Follow along and chat with Dillon on YouTube or Facebook. #amabuild View the full article
  18. MAN contributors and readers are a clever bunch, and they’re always coming up with easier, more efficient ways to build and set up airplanes. Here are 7 workshop tips that we think you’ll enjoy using. Have a tip of your own you’d like to share? Send us an email at MAN@airage.com. Simple Pushrod Guide You may not always want to install a servo to operate the choke on a gasoline engine; in fact, many times you may rather have a manual choke. The issue becomes controlling the push/pullrod’s location so you can operate it when the cowl is installed on the plane. The answer is probably in your parts box: an old nylon control horn. By enlarging the hole, you can use the motor mount bolt to secure the control horn to the motor mount, and then use one of the control horn base holes as a guide for the pushrod. Since it is made of nylon, there is almost no friction and no RF noise to bother the ignition of the engine or receiver. It’s very simple to make, install, and works very well. Cheap Sanding Files Next time you get paint at the hardware store, be sure to get some extra paint stirrers. Glue str*ps of sandpaper of various grades to each side of the sticks; 3M 77 spray adhesive works great for this. You can also use sticky-back sandpaper. Now you have created a collection of useful sandpaper files! I find it’s also helpful to mark the sandpaper grit on the handle of the stick for easy reference. After the Delivery Don’t throw away those pizza boxes — they make great wheel chocks when transporting your favorite fuselage. Just cut holes to fit the tires —the plane size is only limited to the span of the pizza box. If you have carpet, such has the back of a car or a van, use some hook-and-loop fastener to keep the box and plane fuselage in one spot . Parting Trick The protective backing on some covering films can be difficult to separate at first. A str*p of masking tape applied to each side of the covering creates a handle on which to pull the sheets apart. Once you try it, you will never go back to separating them with your fingernails. Replace broken dowels and scr*ws By using a hollowed-out drill bit, you can remove a broken dowel such as one used in the leading edge of the wing. First, find a piece of metal tube that can slide over the broken dowel. File cutting teeth in one end of the tube and then insert the other end in your drill. Use this to “core out” the broken stub. Use this same m*thod to remove broken-off scr*ws. Now just glue in a larger dowel and adjust the mating size hole or sand the dowel flush with the surrounding area and re-dill for the same size dowel you removed. Little scr*ws, big trouble Tiny scr*ws are the worst. You can use a pair of tweezers, but the scr*ws are hard to handle and will often drop and fall off the bench onto the floor. Solve this by placing the scr*ws into the holes and put a piece of clear tape over them. This will hold them there while you place the hubcap down onto the tire. Now you can easily start the scr*w by poking the scr*wdriver through the tape and turning them. This works very well and will work on any little scr*ws that need to be put into a pre-drilled hole. Transparent labels You never know when your model might get away from you, and per AMA rules, you need to have an address label inside the plane. You also want a label near your charging j*ck with the size and type of flight battery you have installed. If you don’t have a label maker, here is a simple way to make a transparent label. Using a ballpoint pen, write on the adhesive side of the tape. The trick is to write backward, which is not as hard as you think. When you attach the label to the model, every word will read correctly and be protected from the elements. The post Model Airplane News 7 QUICK WORKSHOP TIPS appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  19. Two meter Fox glider for sale has all but receiver. To much for me to handle. Asking 50$ Gary gwp2295@yahoo.com or 6185673452
  20. The US Navy Blue Angels and US Air Force Thunderbirds performed a very rare joint flyover above New York City, Trenton, Newark, and Philadelphia on April 28, 2020 to honor health care and essential workers fighting the COVID-19 pandemic. The teams departed from NAS Pensacola in Florida and were refueling mid-flight by four KC-10 Extenders before returning back to Pensacola. Flyovers will continue around the country under the name Operation America Strong. Video and photos courtesy of: Lt. Cmdr. Aaron Hicks – Navy Flight Demonstration Squadron Chief Petty Officer Chad Pritt – Navy Flight Demonstration Squadron Petty Officer 3rd Class Dan Serianni – Navy Public Affairs Support Element East – (Active) Staff Sgt. Sarah Brice – 621st Contingency Response Wing Public Affairs Petty Officer 2nd Class Cody Hendrix – Navy Flight Demonstration Squadron Staff Sgt. Cory Bush – Air Force Thunderbirds Tech. Sgt. Ned T. Johnston – Air Force Thunderbirds Airman 1st Class Briana Cespedes – Joint Base McGuire-Dix-Lakehurst Public Affairs For more airshow and aviation videos, photos, and merchandise, check out our website at https://www.AirshowStuff.com The post Blue Angels and Thunderbirds Fly Together appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  21. I was sitting under a shade tent at a giant-scale fun fly recently when someone asked me where I got the longer-than-standard-size materials I use to build my big airplanes. I didn’t know what the fellow meant. He told me that his local hobby shop carried only 36-inch lengths of balsa and spruce, and that 48-inch-long sticks were available only by special order. I said that I regularly splice my stringers and spars and think nothing of it. “But how do you do it safely?” he asked. These tips show some common construction techniques and how wood splicing should be done. Strong Splices When you want to turn two pieces of wood into one, you can’t simply glue them together. Some cutting and fitting is necessary so that the splice will bear as much stress as the original wood pieces. To accomplish this, you have to increase the gluing area for the splice by cutting the two mating surfaces in a diagonal line. The weakest, least supported joint you can make is a simple b*tt joint. Gluing two pieces of wood together end to end provides very little surface area for the glue. Overlapping the two pieces is a much stronger way to join them, but if you want to use the part as a stringer or a spar, the overlap isn’t practical because the pieces are not attached in a straight line. A diagonal splice keeps both pieces in alignment. As a general rule, I make the length of a splice at least six times the thickness of the material being glued together—roughly 3 inches across for a 1/2-inch-square spar. To make the two pieces match precisely, I first tack-glue the two parts on top of each other with a few drops of thick CA while making sure the edges of each stick are flush. I then draw a straight diagonal line at the ends to be joined (see photos). I use my band saw to make the cut, and I make certain it is square to the top edge. I then sand the cut surfaces (still glued together) smooth with a belt sander. When the two parts are separated, the two angled surfaces match perfectly. To keep the two pieces aligned when I glue them together, I use a simple, wooden alignment jig. The jig is made with a flat base and two guide pieces (rails) glued on top that form a space between them that’s the same as the thickness of the pieces being glued together. For the jig shown here, I used pieces cut from an old yardstick to act as rails. I also use a piece of Great Planes’ Plans Protector material to prevent the parts from being glued to the jig when the adhesive oozes out of the joint. To form the glue joint, I place one piece in the jig and spray it with a light mist of kicker. I then apply CA to the second piece and slide it into the jig and up against the first piece. After the glue has set, I use a sanding block to sand the face of the joint smooth. I then turn the part over and sand the opposite face smooth as well. That’s it. No magic—just a very strong joint. 1 Start by tack-gluing the two pieces to be spliced together with CA and kicker. Use just a couple of drops of glue. 2 On the ends of the pieces, draw a diagonal line that’s about six times as long as the pieces are thick. 3 Cut the diagonal splice with a band saw, and make sure the cut is square to the top edge. 4 Sand the cut edges smooth with a belt sander. 5 Here, the two longerons are ready to be glued together. 6 I use this simple jig to keep the pieces in alignment while the glue dries. 7 The finished splice. 8 For additional strength, I positioned the splice against the plywood side sheeting. 9 Here you see the splice positioned close to a cl*ster junction where other fuselage members join. 10 By increasing the gluing area that holds the joints together, these 1/32-inch gusset plates add strength to an already strong fuselage structure. 11 This is a close-up of an internal gusset plate used to strengthen a lower fuselage longeron. These are used when you want a flush outer model surface. Here’s a sheeting joint using similar thinking, from my Balsa USA Fokker Dr.1 Triplane. All according to the instructions. The post Making Strong Wood Splices appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  22. We are going LIVE on Facebook and YouTube for another episode of AMA Air. Come find out the latest updates for the Outdoor Nats, discover some exciting changes to Camp AMA 2020, and learn how you can relive #AMAExpo! LINKS from the Episode: http://www.modelaviation.com/brodak-flyin-2018 Outdoor Nats decision to be made June 10, 2020 http://www.modelaircraft.org/nats http://www.modelaircraft.org/together http://www.modelaircraft.org/tag http://www.modelaircraft.org/site-grant http://www.facebook.com/groups/iflyama http://www.amaflightschool.org/campama http://www.modelaircraft.org/join View the full article
  23. We currently have open positions available with the Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA) in Muncie, Indiana. If you are interested in applying, please visit www.modelaircraft.org/employment or email your résumé Human Resources Director April Johnson at aprilj@modelaircraft.org. Foundation Director (reports to the AMA Executive Director) Actively collaborate with the Foundation Board of Directors and AMA Executive Director to implement, perform, and evaluate fundraising and philanthropic efforts that align with AMA and the AMA Foundation’s mission and bylaws. Implement, perform, and evaluate all fundraising activities. Actively monitor and ensure that goals are being achieved. Development and execution of a fundraising efforts, including outside of the AMA community, with both individual and institutional prospects. Seek vendor donations, major gifts, planned estate giving, and capital campaigns for museum, education, and AMA programming. Develop annual Development Program of Work and budget. In consultation with the Executive Director, recruit, interview, select, and manage well-qualified staff. Work with staff to manage existing grants and secure new grants. Web Administrator (Reports to Information Technologies Manager) Upgrades websites by consulting with vendors; develops, tests, evaluates, and installs enhancements and new software. Administers web projects; gathers requirements from internal staff; defines use cases; develops and tests solutions; doc*ments and trains staff on new procedures Secures web system by developing system access, monitoring, control, and evaluation; establishes and tests disaster recovery policies and procedures; completes website backups; maintains doc*mentation. Writes and formats web content using Drupal 7/8 to meet staff goals. Develops new ways for members to access their data within the AMA’s association management system by consuming its web services via SOAP. Maintains existing connections to external vendors via their established APIs. Learns and understands the AMA’s business rules and verifies that web systems implement those rules correctly. Updates job knowledge by tracking emerging internet technologies and participating in educational opportunities. Interfaces with internal or external clients to troubleshoot web problems and answers or distributes web trouble tickets. Responsible for identifying risks that are associated with projects and communicating them to the appropriate people. Install software for local and server machines as needed for business needs. View the full article
  24. An awesome flyover happened today in the Tri-State area! The US Navy Blue Angels and the USAF Thunderbirds flew over parts of NYC, NJ, Long Island, and Westchester county. The featured photo shown was in Bay Ridge. A Big Thank You to the pilots and to all who made this happen. Thank you for your service! The post A Tribute to All appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  25. John G. Brodak, 81, of Carmichaels, PA., passed away on Sat*rday, April 25, 2020 after a lengthy illness. He was born April 1, 1939 in Fairmont, W. Va., a son of the late Joseph G. and Valeria B. (Batis) Brodak. At the age of 13, he began working in his parent’s grocery store and in 1955, he joined the Pennsylvania National Guard. That year, John opened a hobby shop as his first business. In 1958, he became a certified electrician and also worked as a disc jockey with the name of “Johnny Lee”. In 1959, John went to work as a machinist at the Piatt Machine Shop in Washington, PA. On October 21, 1960, he married Coral Lee “Buzz” Welsh, who survives. John opened Brodak Hobby Center in Washington, PA in 1961 and in 1962 took over the Carmichaels grocery store from his parents. That same year, he founded J & G Electric. John was discharged from the Pennsylvania National Guard in 1963 with the rank of Sergeant. He managed the Brodak’s Food Center Team in the Big 4 Softball League. In 1966, John was elected the second youngest president of the Carmichaels Area Chamber of Commerce. He served as president, vice president and a director many times throughout the years. In 1968, John remodeled the Carmichaels food store and enlarged it to 7,000 square feet. That year, he became a member of c*mberland American Legion Post 400. From 1969 until 1972, John served as a Commissioner of the Atlantic Pacific Baseball Association and published a baseball game magazine, the APBA Innings. Continuing his business career, John opened Brodak Printing Company in 1970 and in 1972 became president of Replay Games, Inc. In 1974, he opened his 10,000 square feet grocery store in Millsboro, Pa. and was honored to receive the Fourth Degree from the John F. Kennedy Memorial Council 3569, Knights of Columbus, Carmichaels. John was the manager of the Carmichaels Ironmen and won the Replay World Series in 1977, 1979, 1980, 1982-1984, 1986 and 1988. John built a new 14,000 square feet supermarket in Carmichaels in 1978 and placed first in the IGA Beef Round-Up at the Millsboro Super Dollar. Even though John spent much of his time as a businessman and community leader and servant, he found time to be an extra in a film made by the BBC, “Two Weeks in Winter”. In 1983, John was appointed a director in the King Coal Association by the Chamber of Commerce and in 1984, opened a 10,000 square feet grocery store in Masontown. 1985 was a busy year for John. While serving his fourth term as president of the Chamber of Commerce, he was elected second vice president of the King Coal Association, enlarged Brodak Printing Company to 3,000 square feet, opened Brodak’s Dari-Delite and Brodak’s Video Showcase in Millsboro, which were all destroyed in the election day flood. John was able to reopen these businesses within 40 days. In 1987, John assisted in establishing the Fredericktown Chamber of Commerce and was elected its first president. That year, he purchased Brodak’s Mobile Home Village. In 1988, John remodeled the Carmichaels grocery store to 16,000 square feet and opened Brodaks’ Video Showcase and Brodak Hobby Center in Carmichaels. John always had an interest in flying control line airplanes and became an “All Season Flyer”. After opening Brodak’s Holiday Travel International Agency in 1989, John was made an honorary member of the Fayette County Vietnam Veterans Association and a lifetime member of the National Aeronautic Association and the Academy of Model Aeronautics. 1990 saw the construction of a 26,000 square feet store in Masontown. John became president of the Flying Circus Flying Club, was appointed to the General Facilities Authority Board and elected treasurer, was appointed director of the Riverfront Development Board, joined the Carmichaels Lions Club and became president of the WKEG radio station in Washington. In keeping with John’s sense of community, he assisted in keeping the Flenniken Library financially stable in 1991. That year, he formed Brodak Manufacturing and Distributing Company, Inc. John published the first Brodak catalog of model airplanes and supplies. That year, he was honored as “Man of the Year” by the Carmichaels Lions Club and appointed to the Greene County Committee for Growth P. A. C. He also opened the new 26,000 square feet grocery store along with Brodak’s Video Showcase in Masontown. As John’s interest in model airplanes continued, he attended the National Model Airplane Show in Cleveland, Ohio and was awarded 18 static wins from 1991 to 1995. 1994 saw the remodeling of the Millsboro store to 18,000 square feet. In 1997, John was appointed to the board of directors of the Greene County Industrial Development Authority, which he served for five years. That year, John hosted his first Fly-In in Carmichaels with 36 entries, 77 flights of a two day period. Over the years, this tradition expanded to include hundreds of entries. In 1999, John expanded the Carmichaels grocery store to 32,000 square feet, purchased BY & O Props and PAMPA Products. As the years went by, John continued developing and adding to his various businesses in the local area. Prior to his passing, he had planned to open a model airplane museum next to his other establishments in Carmichaels. John’s last control line fly-in in June of 2019 brought hundreds of competitors from around the country and the world. To John, it was important that his local community would develop and thrive. He will be greatly missed by his family and his community. Surviving in addition to his wife, Coral, are three daughters, Melissa “Missy” Curtis (Jeffrey) of Rostraver, Pa., Jacqueline “j*ckie” Horvath (Andrew) of Ligonier, Pa. and Claudine “Dena” Ferek of Rices Landing, Pa.; a son, Joseph I. Brodak (Stacey) of Washington; seven grandchildren, l*zlie Thorn (Sam) of Los Angeles, Cal., Lissa Kacsanek (Jeff) of Tucson, Ariz., Jaycee Curtis, Strabane, Pa., Samantha Robinson (Marcus) of Eighty Four, Pa., Jessica Ferek (fiancé, Mo Nahas) of Boston, Mass., Georg*nna Zeglen (Mati) of Rices Landing and Jonathan Brodak of Washington; six great grandchildren, Ignatius, Sidney, Blaise, Bryer, Axel and Roux and a brother, George J. Brodak of Oakland, Md. Deceased are a grandson, Jeffrey Alexander Curtis; two brothers, Edward Brodak who died in childhood and Joseph R. Brodak; a niece, Meghan Crawford and a son-in-law, Stan “Stush” Ferek. The post John Brodak: U.S. Veteran and Entrepreneur appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
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