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JShumate

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  1. In my opinion, the knife-edge spin is one of the most impressive extreme aerobatic maneuvers. It’s very demanding for the pilot and the airframe. First, I’ll describe the maneuver. In traditional knife-edge, the aircraft is rolled approximately 90 degrees from upright level flight. Then altitude is sustained by using “top” rudder. When the maneuver is complete, the pilot will roll the model 90 degrees to return to upright level flight. Compared with a traditional knife-edge, in a knife-edge spin, the model’s attitude remains parallel with the horizon. To do the knife-edge spin, you have to gain a lot of altitude. Then, when you are ready to begin, bring your throttle back to about 50-percent power and apply full down-elevator and right or left aileron and rudder. When the model begins to tumble, it will change its attitude and begin a tumbling descent. This is the knife-edge spin. When you are ready to exit the maneuver, simply neutralize all stick inputs, and the model will quickly come out of the spin. Then pull up-elevator ever so gently to an upright and level flight exit. During a knife-edge spin, your model quickly loses a lot of altitude. This is because during this maneuver, lift comes from your fuselage side area, which doesn’t even compare with the lift produced by your wing area. Make sure you gain a lot of altitude before you begin this maneuver. FIRST THINGS FIRST When you start to do a maneuver that stresses the airframe, e.g., the knife-edge spin, you must make sure that you have a rigid airframe with the best possible linkage setup. Also make sure that your model has more than enough servo power. Now let’s talk about you, the pilot. Most pilots roll more comfortably in one direction than the other. If you prefer to roll right, it’s better for you to spin to the right during a knife-edge spin and vice versa. Once you’re familiar with the maneuver, you’ll be able to spin in either direction. Begin at a high altitude and with your model parallel to the runway. In the language of aerobatics, we say our position relative to the runway is our ìcenter.î When the model approaches the ìcenterî of the aerobatic box, you will begin the maneuver. In this example, we fly the maneuver from left to right. When you have gained enough altitude (spin-entry height) and the model is in the center of the aerobatic box, start the maneuver. Fly into the wind, pull the throttle back to about 50-percent power and apply down-elevator and left aileron and rudder. The model will tumble but will soon enter a knife-edge spin, or a “tumbling” spin. You need to hold the same inputs throughout the maneuver, but some models may react differently. If you have too much down-elevator deflection, your model may enter an upright flat spin. If you find that this is the case, you must decrease the endpoint values of your control surfaces. Start by decreasing elevator deflection, and if the model still does not want to do a knife-edge spin, slightly decrease aileron deflection, too. To control your model’s rate of descent during this maneuver, increase the throttle. On 3D-capable models, you can add power to increase their angle of attack. At a lower throttle setting, the model will sit at a lower angle relative to the horizon; increasing the throttle will lift the fuselage because of rudder authority. To complete the maneuver, simply neutralize your sticks. As soon as you do this, your model will come out of the knife-edge spin. Timing is everything, and you need to time it so that your model exits the maneuver in an attitude that’s perpendicular to the runway. When the model is perpendicular to the runway, pull back on the elevator for a gentle 90-degree turn to exit in upright level flight and parallel to the runway. You’ve finished the maneuver! Sit back, relax and enjoy the rest of your flight! Give yourself time to learn this maneuver. If you have difficulties, do not blame yourself; instead, check your airframe and tweak your endpoint adjustments as described in Step 2 so that your model will fly the knife-edge spin. Next time, I’ll continue my discussion of various aerobatic maneuvers, but until then, practice, practice, practice and have fun! The post Master the Knife-Edge Spin appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  2. James May of Top Gear and The Grand Tour fame has a soft spot for RC model airplanes. In this video, he builds a glider based on a childhood model and then attempts to fly it across the English Channel! An hour long, this terrific short film is definitely worth your time! The post James May Flies RC Across the Channel appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  3. The Heinkel He 162 Volksjäger (People’s Fighter”), was a single-engine, jet-powered Luftwaffe fighter that saw limited action at the end of World War II. It was designed and built quickly primarily of wood as metals were in very short supply and prioritized for other aircraft. Several Volksjäger (Salamander) jets were captured by allied forces at the end of the war for future study. This impressive RC model though not especially large, is very impressive and it has excellent flight performance. Arnim Morgenweck pilots the 79 inch span He-162 which as a takeoff weight of 46.5 pounds. Powered by a TJ-74 turbine engine, the Salamander was filmed at the Megaflugshow (Mega RC Airshow) in Göttingen, Germany Video courtesy of RC MEDIA WORLD The post Turbine powered He 162 Salamander appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  4. The Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) has issued the proposed rule for remote identification of drones, which by strict definition include RC model aircraft. We encourage our audience to read the Notice of Proposed Rulemaking now in the Federal Register and share their comments. The following regulations are in the proposed rule and would impact the RC hobby. > It would limit the number of approved flying sites > All flying sites must have internet capability > Requires registration of every aircraft Click here to comment and make your voice heard! The post FAA Proposed Rule for Drones/RC Aircraft appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  5. Let’s face it. If you fly RC airplanes, sooner or later, you’re going to damage your model. Knowing how to deal with common damage inflicted on our models saves you money and extends the life of your plane. So why buy a replacement wing when you can fix it yourself? Here’s our damaged wing. This is much like what would happen if you ran your plane into the safety fence at the flying field. With so many ARFs available on the market today, few modelers are actually building up their models from kits. This has produced a whole generation of excellent flyers who simply don’t have the building skills needed to produce an RC model. Without this experience, trying to repair an ARF can be difficult. The techniques shown here are not limited to ARFs and can be used to fix any model you have. MATERIALS The two most important things for a repair project are good glue and a sharp hobby knife. For most of my repairs, I use Pacer Technology’s Zap medium and thin CA, Zip Kicker and for high-stress areas, 20-minute Z-Poxy epoxy. A sharp hobby saw is perfect for making smooth cross-cuts in wood. When smoothing things out, you’ll need a couple of sanding blocks or bars equipped with medium and fine sandpaper. For removing large amounts of material, a good razor plane is also a good tool to have. 1 The first thing to do is to remove the covering material so you can see exactly what’s b*sted. Be like a doctor and cause no further harm! Don’t just cut deeply into the covering and balsa sheeting. Be careful to cut only through the covering without damaging balsa sheeting. If you do, it can weaken the area around your repair. 2 To remove the sheeting around the damaged area, I used a long sanding bar as a straightedge to guide my hobby knife. The sandpaper prevents it from shifting while cutting the balsa. Once you remove the sheeting, you’ll be able to see if there are any internal parts that need replacement. 3 For this wing repair, we needed to replace the leading edge (LE) and the front portion of the broken rib. 4. Here you see the the repair area has been cleaned up and the replacement LE material and the two notches that will need to be cut to carry the LE past the open area are shown. 5. A razor saw does this job quickly and easily. 6. Here the replacement LE material has been fitted snugly into place. To produce the shape of the rib replacement part, trace an undamaged rib next to the damaged one. Cut the part to shape and then place it against the damaged one. 7. Here you see the rib front and the LE replacement parts all glued into place. Tack glue the parts into place first, then lightly flow thin CA into the cr*cks and seams to make sure everything is secure. 8. Before you can replace the top and bottom wing sheeting, you first have to add doubler str*ps under the edges of the undamaged sheeting so you have som*thing to glue the new sheeting to. You may also need to glue some doublers to the side of the ribs to provide purchase to support the ends of the new replacement sheeting. 9. Here the new sheeting has been glued in place. Before closing up the bottom of the wing, re-glue all of the inside seams to make sure you have strong bond everywhere. 10. Once the wing structure has been closed up, start removing material from the leading edge and then shape and sand everything flush and smooth. A Balsa Razor Plane makes short work removing material from the LE stock. 11. Filling the seams with a lightweight spackling compound is the next step. I use Red Devil “OneTime” filler for this. It is extremely lightweight, dries in 30 minutes and is very easy to sand smooth. (It’s available at the hardware store and home improvement department at Home Depot.) To make the filler easier to apply, use a damp sponge to lightly moisten the wood around the repair. Use a scr*p piece of sheeting and apply the filler like you are frosting a cake. Press it firmly into all the seams and dents and then let dry. 12. Use 220-grit sandpaper and sand everything smooth. If there are any starved areas needing more filler, just repeat the process and sand again until everything is level and smooth. 13. Wipe the dust off the model and get some matching covering material, your covering tools and supplies. For the Hangar 9 Pawnee I used matching UltraCote, (from Horizonhobby.com.) Use some rubbing alcohol to degrease the covering all around your repair. This removes the oily residue from your fingers and fuel residue that will prevent a good bond. 14. First apply the base white color. Cut the white covering about 1-inch larger all around and apply the patch in two pieces starting with the bottom side of the wing. Iron the covering down and smooth out any wrinkles and then apply the top piece. 15. Once the white has been applied, cut to shape and apply the trim color and overlap all the seams by about an inch. Be sure to seal all the edges down securely and, while you are at it, check all the other edges and covering seams on the wing and seal them down as well with your hot iron. That’s it! Don’t look now, but your wing panel is ready for flight again! If you kept everything neat, your repair will be hard to see. To see my video showing this repair, follow this link. http://www.modelairplanenews.com/blog/2014/06/20/wing-repair-for-built-up-airplanes-video-from-the-workbench/ Tips & Tools For good repairs (and building for that matter,) you need to have the proper tools. Here are some of the ones I used for this repair. Sharp razor saws are the tools of choice when cutting thick stock and for cross grain straight cuts. Sandpaper and sanding bars. You can’t have enough. I have long and short ones and I like the aluminum ones from Great Planes with stick-on sandpaper str*ps. My favorite tool of all is the Razor Plane. There are several available and I like this one from Master Airscr*w. It is designed to used common hardware store razor blades. It is made of composite plastic and They last for years and years. So that’s it. Go build or repair som*thing and get back in the air! The post Wing Repairs for Built-up Airplanes appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  6. When operating RC airplanes, properly balanced propellers are very important. Having a balanced prop helps prevent excessive vibration which can cause electrical connections to loosen, fuel in your gas tank to foam up, and can even cause structural damage. Balancing your propeller helps avoid all these problems and it is very easy to do by following this two-step procedure. 1. To balance blades, place the mounted prop on the balancer with the blades in a horizontal position. Remove material from the heavy side (the side that falls when placed horizontally), or add to the lighter side until prop stays in a balanced horizontal position. 2. To balance the prop hub, place the mounted prop on the balancer in a vertical position. Remove material from the heavy side (side that falls when placed vertically) or add to the lighter side until prop stays in a balanced vertical position. Tips for Removing or Adding Weight To remove material from wood or plastic props, scr*pe or sand material from the backside of the blade. To add material use drops of CA glue, epoxy or “dope” (wood props). Also, light coats of these adhesives work as well. That’s it. Balancing a propeller is very easy and it pays big dividends by making your model last longer and operate more smoothly. Safety note: Don’t try to repair a broken or badly cr*cked propeller. The post Easy Tips for Balancing Propellers appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  7. We’ve all heard the horror stories about charging lithium packs catching on fire, and the best insurance is to always use a container. The newest in the proven Bat Safe lineup of charging containers is the $39.99 Mini, a 6.5 x 3.9 x 1.9-inch double- walled, insulated steel box with a flame arrestor. Intended for use with up to a 2C, 3S 2200mAh battery, the Mini weighs 1.6 pounds empty. It’s easy to use and comes with a carrying handle and a removable charger stand. bat-safe.com The post Bat Safe Mini appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
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    Fox Valley Aero Club 15th Annual Radio Control Swap Meet Saturday, February 15, 2020 Swap open from 9:00am to 1:00pm. Table set-up at 8:00am. Foamy and Light Electric Indoor Flying from 1:00pm to 4:00pm. Admission $5 per person, kids under 12 free. Kane County Fairgrounds 525 Randall Rd. St. Charles, IL 60174 Click the following link for details: file_b5017b51-12b0-4d51-93ba-6243f52b3d45.pdf Click the following link for a mail in table registration form: file_416f8b86-2122-47ca-899b-15acbf7ad0dc.pdf Click the following link for online table registration: www.foxvalleyaeroswap.com
  9. This info provided from @DIrwin with PDF download >> Basic Gas Engine Tuning.pdf VERY IMPORTANT! Read each step and follow exactly and move the sticks exactly as I indicate, there is no slow stick movement when checking the H and L needles. Since both needles work together, slowly throttling up or down will tell you very little when doing your base needle settings. Don't omit any steps and don't do any steps out of order and IT WILL WORK, follow each step and do exactly as described: Before starting the tuning process you will need to: - Tune the engine when it is warm, and double check the tune after your first flight. Start the engine and run it for a good few minutes with varied throttle and some full throttle run ups to get it nice and warm. - If you have not done so, adjust the servo travel for a consistent low idle, does not need to be perfect as long as it is as low as it will reliably run for at least 10 seconds or so. You can not properly tune the low needle if it is too high! Once you are done with tuning and after your first flight you will want to double check your low idle and high idle settings. - For smaller engines set the low as low as it will reliably run and you can adjust after tuning. You will NOT use a high idle setting during tuning as you cannot tell exactly where the low needle is on a high idle. A good low idle should stand still on the ground while idling. An idle up should just make the plane want to roll on the ground. Now that you have that set up, lets proceed with tuning: – If you have not done so already, look in the owner’s manual for your engine and set your needles according to the settings suggested by the manufacturer. These are always a suggested starting point, your tune should end up close but will most likely be different slightly. Keep in mind on a new engine you will need to re-tune after a couple gallons as the engine breaks in. You can tell this because the engine will begin to run noticeably richer on the low end. Generally you can’t tell much difference on the high end after break in but always check it as well. - Tune low needle first. Now run the engine up to clean it out with a couple full throttle run ups and then go to to low idle. Listen to the engine how long does it take to start to "load up" or start to slow down in RPM? If it is rough right away you are likely way to rich. Remember, on gas carbs adjustments are VERY small, like the width of a screwdriver blade or 1/16th of a turn or less. Making large adjustments can make you go from rich to lean and then you’ll be chasing your tail from there out. Small adjustments, and sneak up on it. A good "safe" tuning on the low needle you should be able to clean it out with some run ups, return to idle and it should have a nice steady low idle for at least 15-20 seconds before it starts to load up. If it does this it is still just a "touch" rich but will not die on you and it will run nice and smooth. - How Low should react. Now that you have it running, clean out the engine and let it go to idle. Let it sit for 10 seconds or so and then slam the throttle to full, not slow, nail it!! Listen to what it does. If it dies or almost dies, you are too lean. If it stumbles and works it's way up (may see smoke in exhaust) you are rich. As tuned in number 5 above it should run up quickly with very little or no noticeable stumble. Check this several times before proceeding to the H needle. - Now tune the High needle. There are several ways to do this with RPM but the simplest way for a safe needle setting is this. With the engine warm and the low needle tuned run the engine up to full throttle for about 5 seconds. Now chop it in one quick motion to low. Listen to what it does then. If it returns to a steady idle, you are very close, you may possibly a touch lean. If the idle goes way low and works it's way up to a steady idle you are too rich (engine has residual fuel from the top). If it stays at a high idle and then slows down you are too lean (engine got hot at the top). If it dies you are either way too rich or way too lean. With the H at 1.5 you should not be too lean. - How should the High react. Ideally you will have at least some residual when quickly chopping from H to L. So in other words from a 5 second full run up and chopping to low the RPM should just barely dip, and then return to your normal low idle. That’s nearly a perfect H tune that allows some residual fuel for high speed downwind passes and down-lines when the RPM’s will pick up. - When H is set return and double check the L and then double check the H. Then it's time for a flight. Listen to the engine carefully for all of the noted symptoms while you are flying. One engine test I do in-flight is for the H needle. Get the engine nice and hot, maybe a high speed pass or something. Now do a full throttle straight up line. Listen! Engine should be smooth and steady until you can't go higher. If it starts to sag at all, land immediately and richen the H needle just a tad and try it again. NOTE: This fade can also be caused from overheating not tuning related so make sure your engine is properly baffled if you now the tuning is correct. There you go, pretty simple and really only takes a few minutes once you get it down.
  10. I look forward to seeing it in the air
  11. JShumate

    Social Meeting

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    Social Meeting at the CCRCC Airfield - 7:00PM
  12. JShumate

    Business Meeting

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    CCRCC Business Meeting at CCRCC Flying Field- 7:00PM
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    Social Meeting at Huber's - 7:00PM
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    Social Meeting at Huber's - 7:00PM
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    Social Meeting at Huber's - 7:00PM
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