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JShumate

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  1. When it comes to WW II bombers, the B-17 Flying Fortress is the recognized icon for all heavy bombers This video shows off the giant scale RC “Aluminum Overcast” B-17, piloted by Peter Pfeffer “Peda” Maßstab. The 1/5.6-scale Flying Fortress has a 19 foot wingspan, is 14 feet long and took four years to build. Over 41 inches tall at the top of the vertical fin, the impressive bomber is built using traditional balsa and plywood construction techniques, has scale retractable landing gear and flaps and weighs in at 187 pounds. Powered by four 42cc gas engines, the radio gear is from Weatronic. Video courtesy of RC Scale Aircraft. The post New for Premium Members — 19ft. B-17 Flying Fortress Takes Flight appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  2. The 345th Bomber Group (BG) was first acti­vated at Columbia Army Air Base, South Carolina, in November 1942 and was christened the “Air Apaches.” As a B-25 bomber group, it was broken into four squadrons: the 498th, known as the “Falcons”; the 499th, “Bats Outa Hell”; the 500th, “Rough Raiders”; and the 501st, the “Black Panthers.” The 345th BG was sent to the Southwest Pacific Theater in 1943 and began flying missions from Port Moresby, New Guinea, and earned the recognition of the first Air Force Combat Group sent to the Pacific in World War II. To read this article and other exclusive online content, Click Here and subscribe to the Model Airplane News Premium website. The post New for Premium Members — The Story of the 345th Bomber Group appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  3. JShumate

    Scratch-Build a Radial Cowl

    The method of making a round cowling involves laminating a cylinder from 1/64-inch plywood and capping it with a balsa ring for the leading edge. In the photos that are featured in this article, I show two cowlings that I made this way; one was for an original design and the other was for a stand-off scale model of a Vickers Wellesley single-engine bomber. The two pieces of 1/4 inch plywood that will form the mandrel are nailed together in the scrap. A compass is used to draw a circle of the desired diameter on the top piece. To make the cylinder part of the cowling, a length of plywood is soaked in water to make it flexible and then wrapped around a mandrel. When the plywood is dry and the mandrel has been removed, the edges are dressed and the balsa ring is glued to one edge. After final shaping, the cowling can be primed and painted to suit. Step one of the building process is to determine the inside diameter of the plywood cylinder for the desired cowling. I like to laminate four layers of plywood which gives a wall thickness of 1/16 of an inch. Therefore, the I.D. of the cylinder is simply the O.D. of the cowling minus 1/8 of an inch. This dimension will be the O. D. of the mandrel. Before the mandrel discs are sawn out, a 1/4-inch diameter center hole and five randomly spaced 3/8-inch diameter holes are drilled through the plywood. The mandrel consists of two discs, made from 1/4-inch plywood, spaced on a 1/4-inch bolt. Cut out two plywood squares, about an inch or so oversize, and nail them together in the scrap. Use a compass to draw a circle of the proper diameter on the top piece of plywood. Drill a 1/4-inch hole in the center for the bolt and several 3/8-inch holes randomly spaced in the circle.These holes will be used to knock out the discs after the cylinder has dried. The plywood will shrink as it dries and then tightly grip the discs. This is the reason for using 1/4-inch plywood for the discs. The small surface area of the disc being in contact with the inside of the cylinder allows it to be knocked out fairly easily. After the bolt is removed, a dowel or screwdriver threaded through the holes in one disc can be used to tap out the other disc. A band saw works well to cut out the discs. The two mandrel discs along with the 1/4-inch center bolt and spacer washers. The assembled mandrel. The mandrel discs are spaced so that about 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch of the cowling cylinder projects out beyond the discs on each end. If you remember your high school geometry, the circumference of a circle is π times the diameter of the circle, so the length of the 1/64 plywood strip is π times the diameter times four (the number of plies). For example, the I.D. of the cowling for the original airplane design is 2-5/8 inches, so the length of the plywood strip is 3.14 x 2.625 x 4. This works out to approximately 33 inches. However, this could result in the ends coming out one on top of the other, which might create a bump, so I reduced the length to 31-1/2 inches. The inside length dimension of the cowling is 1-1/2 inches, so the final size of the plywood strip is 1-1/2 inches by 31-1/2 inches. A soaking basin can be made from four lengths of 2 x 4 and a garbage bag. Arrange the 2 x 4s in a rectangle and press the garbage bag down inside the 2 x 4s to form the basin. Fill with warm water. Place the plywood strip in the water and weight it down with something non-metallic. Let soak about 10 minutes and then turn over. Soak about another 10 minutes. The 1/64-inch ply strip that will be rolled up to form the cowling. A pair of scissors works well to cut the 1/64-inch plywood. Prepare the mandrel and glue while the plywood is soaking. Space the discs on the 1/4-inch bolt so that about 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch of the cylinder projects out beyond the plywood discs on each end. Flat washers work well as spacers because you can add or subtract washers to achieve the desired spacing. Pour a little Elmer’s Carpenter’s Wood Glue into a container and select a medium soft brush for applying the glue to the plywood. While the plywood is soaking, periodically check its flexibility by bending with your fingers. When you feel it is flexible enough to form around the mandrel, remove and pat dry on both sides. Calculate the length [π x d] of plywood that will be in contact with the mandrel discs, and mark on the plywood strip. Brush the glue on the inside of the rest. Start rolling from the non-glue end. Try to roll the cylinder as tightly and as straight as possible. Tightly bind the rolled cylinder with a couple of bands of masking tape. You may wish to recruit an extra pair of hands to help with this. A large garbage bag is pressed down inside the 2 x 4s to form the soaking basin. The soaking basin is filled with warm water. The plywood strip is placed in the basin and held down with something non-metallic. Soaking time is about 15 to 20 minutes. Mandrel, glue, tape and drying towel are ready to go. Use a damp rag to wipe off any excess glue that squeezes out between the plies. The masking tape won’t stick to the damp plywood, so make a couple of loops around the cylinder and stick the masking tape to itself. Allow to dry thoroughly, preferably overnight. After drying, remove the tape and bolt and tap out the plywood discs. Use a sanding block to dress the edges and to smooth out the exterior joint. Saw out the balsa nose ring and glue it to one edge width full strength Elmer’s. Rough carve to shape with a sharp #11 blade, and finish with a sanding block and sandpaper. Remove the ply strip from the water and pat dry. Brush the glue on the inside of the plywood. Carefully calculate the starting point for the glue so as not to glue the mandrel to the cylinder. Roll the cylinder as straight and tight as possible. Wrap with masking tape and set aside to dry. The Wellesley cowling is a little different in that the exterior is shaped, r ather than flat like the cowling for the original design plane. I glued a layer of 3/16-inch balsa to the outside of the plywood cylinder with the wood grain running across the cylinder. The balsa pieces were formed by soaking in water and taping to a cardboard tube of about the right diameter. After drying, the pieces were trimmed to fit and glued to the cowling with Elmer’s. The final shape was turned on a lathe. This method of construction would also work for a Townend ring, without the balsa nosepiece, such as on the Boeing P-26. It could also be used for bell-shaped cowlings, like the beautifully tapered cowling on the Hughes H-1. Part of designing a cowling is working out how the cowling will be mounted to the fuselage. On the original design plane, the fuselage extends forward to the backside of the balsa nose ring. The fuselage and cowling were sized so that the cowling is a nice slip-fit over the front portion of the fuselage. One small wood screw near the bottom rear of the cowling anchors it to the fuselage. Because of the marked taper on the front of the Wellesley fuselage, a different mounting method had to be designed. A wheel-shaped former, made from 1/8 inch lite-ply with the O.D. the same as the I.D. of the plywood cylinder, is glued to the front of the fuselage. Four small magnets are epoxied to the front of the former. A plywood ring is glued to the inside of the cowling, and the four washers corresponding to the four magnets are epoxied to this ring. The ring is positioned so that the rear edge of the cowling projects 1/16-inch beyond the back of the former. The former also provides the mounting points for the electric motor. Cowlings made using this method are low in weight and amazingly strong. If you are into building light, a cylinder rolled from two or fewer plies would still have adequate strength with less weight. I used a sanding block to dress one end of the cylinder flat. To be certain the cylinder stayed round, I glued on the balsa nose ring before removing the mandrel. Poking out the mandrel discs with a screw driver. A sharp #11 blade, a sanding block and sandpaper were used to shape the cowling. The cowling ready for paint. The finished cowling is a slip fit over the front of the fuselage. The cowling in place on the front of the fuselage. The battery hatch slips under the rear of the cowling and is held in place with a magnet at the rear of the hatch. The finished plane ready for its first flight. The mandrel pieces for the Wellesley cowling. The assembled mandrel for the Wellesley cowling. The plywood strip and mandrel for the Wellesley cowling. Soaking the ply strip for the Wellesley cowling. Rolling the Wellesley cowling. The balsa nose ring and the 3/16 inch-thick balsa pieces that will form the outside of the Wellesley cowling. The three balsa pieces were soaked in water and taped to a cardboard tube to form the curved shape. To be certain the cowling held its round shape, the nose ring and 3/16 inch balsa pieces were glued on before the mandrel was removed. The cowling was shaped on a lathe using different grades of sandpaper. The nose of the Wellesley fuselage and the cowling showing the magnet mounting system. The unfinished Wellesley fuselage with the cowling in place. Text & photos by Rodney Helgeland The post Scratch-Build a Radial Cowl appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  4. A great way to add excitement to your RC flights is to add a smoke system. Do a loop or a roll and then add a dense, long-hanging smoke trail and you have an airshow! You can save some bucks by modifying your stock muffler instead of buying a commercial one. Then you can take that money and apply it to the cost of the smoke pump and required hardware. Here’s how I did it with my Zenoah G-20-powered Hangar 9 1/4-scale J-3 Piper Cub. Before you can make smoke with your new smoke-muffler, you need good quality smoke fluid. Robart Manufacturing’s Liquid Sky oil is available in 5- and 1-gallon qualities and it provides excellent, long-lasting smoke. Liquid Sky is used by pros and Joes for turbine as well as piston engine-equipped aircraft and is foam safe. Liquid Sky makes very dense smoke and there is also a subtle Root Beer scent to help mask that automotive gasoline smell you get from a great day at the flying field! (www.robart.com) Step 1: Here’s the stock muffler removed from the engine and cleaned up with some MEK solvent to really degrease it. I used a new single-edged razor blade to remove the old exhaust gasket. Here you can see the new one I will add after the muffler has been modified.Step 2: The plumbing needed is a mix of Tygon gasoline fuel line and heat-resistant silicon tubing that holds up well to the heat of the muffler. To modify the muffler all we need is a large brass tube that fits into the main exhaust pipe to be used as a baffle tube, and a thin brass or copper for the oil preheat and injection tube. I use Du-Bro and K&S tools to cleanly bend the tubing. For the smoke oil tank, I use a sullivan 10-ounce tank set up with a standard two-tube setup. Be sure to use tie wraps to secure your tubing.Step 3: The first thing to do is to cut, bend and prepare the end of the Injector tube. To make a fine atomized spray of oil into the muffler, I use a cutter to snip the end of the copper tube. This seals the end and shapes it so it resembles a fish tail. I then use a thin cut-off disk with my Dremel to nick the middle of the fish tail. This produces an opening about half the area of the stock tubing end. The tube is then bent so it’s long enough to enter the side of the muffler, pass through to the other side, and then bend 180 degrees to re-enter the muffler.Step 4: Drill three holes in the side of the muffler. Depending on your muffler and engine installation, these holes have to be custom laid out. On mine, the single entry hole is on the muffler’s aft side, and the two others are on the front side. Drill the holes slightly larger than your injection tube’s diameter. For my oil-injection tube I drilled three holes then used a rat-tail file to enlarge the holes slightly. Now use a drum-grinding bit with your Dremel and grind away the black finish on the muffler. This will provide a clean surface for the metal epoxy to stick to.Step 5: Here you see the injection tube installed and ready to be sealed with JB Weld metal epoxy. Be sure to clean the injection tube as well as the surface of the muffler. Build up fillets around the tubes/holes areas. Smooth the fillets with a wet finger and then set aside for 24 hours to fully cure.Step 6: To provide a baffle tube, a large brass tube is slipped in to fit into the muffler and the fit should be snug. The tube is longer than the internal tube already in the muffler. Slip it into place, bottom it out and then mark the length. Use a K&S Tubing cutter and cut it to length.Step 7: To get the length of the internal tube, I used a bent piece of wire or welding rod. Slide it into the muffler, slip it over the end of the internal tube and with your thumbnail, use the wire as a depth gauge and transfer the length to the brass tube. The area at the end of the brass tube will be the baffle section and will need to have several holes drilled into it! Drill several holes in the end and then sand smooth. Slip the baffle tube into the muffler until it bottoms out and is flush with the exhaust pipe. Drill a hole and secure the brass tube in place with a pan-head sheet metal screw. Step 8: To route your smoke lines into the cabin area, drill a hole in the firewall and slide a stiff wire into the hole. Guide the wire until it enters the cabin and then attach your smoke line to the wire and pull it into place. At the end of the smoke line, install a 1-inch-long piece of glow fuel silicon tubing with a short length of aluminum tube. Silicon holds up to heat much better than Tygon gas tubing. Connect the silicon tubing to the oil injection tube and bolt the muffler back into place on the engine. Reinstall the engine cowl. Notice that I had to grind away a little bit of the cowl to clear the injection tube.Step 9: Now it’s time to install the plumbing, tank, pump and a way to meter the smoke oil flow. I made a removable tray to secure all the hardware. Velcro holds the tray in place, double-sided tape attaches the tank to the tray, and some foam padding protects the pump and motor from vibration.Step 10: I use a fuel filters for a clean oil flow, a check valve to prevent muffler pressure from pushing oil back into the pump tubing, and most importantly, a remote needle valve assembly to regulate the oil flow. If you don’t meter the flow properly, the oil can cool off the muffler and reduce the amount of smoke it generates. This is much better than using a clamp on the oil tubing. I used a needle-valve assembly from an old O.S. .61 engine. It works great!Step 11: Smoke oil pumps are available from several sources. Two that I have used are the TME (requires 12V battery) and the Don Harris pump, which can be powered simply by plugging it into the receiver. There are others as well from Sullivan and from Slimline Products. A bit of advice here is before you install the pumps and attach the plumbing, be sure to check which pump fitting is the “IN” and which is the “OUT.” This will save a lot of grief if you were to go ahead and install everything and then find out something is hooked up backwards.Step 12: Here’s the finished installation in my Hangar 9 Piper Cub. Notice that I use a lot of cable ties to keep the plumbing neat and prevent it from moving around. I used a T-fitting to fill and empty the smoke tank and placed it between the pump and the tank. Note the positions of the needle valve assembly and the check valve. Be sure to place the needle valve in a convenient place to make it easy to adjust. In this installation, I run the vent tube out along the filler line. This automatically allows the overflow to spill out away from the model while filling the tank. For tighter installation, use separate Fuel Dots to fill and empty your smoke system.Step 13: Check out the smoke density! This is what it looks like with the oil flow almost completely shut down (only one turn open). This setting gives a lot of “smoke-on time” and the 10-ounce tank lasts more than 10 minutes. The system works great and when you switch the smoke off, it takes about 5 to 7 seconds for the smoke to stop completely. SMOKE ON! THE THREE STEPS FOR GOOD SMOKE ARE: Heat equals smoke! Whenever possible, preheat your smoke fluid before it is injected into your muffler. Using a simple pressure fitting to inject the fluid is not a good setup. Regulate your smoke fluid flow. Too much smoke oil is worse than too little. Excessive oil cools the muffler, which reduces the amount of smoke it generates and shortens smoke-on time by burning up the fluid faster than is needed. Do not switch the smoke pump on when you engine is at low throttle or at idle. You can cause the engine to drown on the unburned oil which increases back pressure. A good idea is to mix the smoke switch with your throttle channel and set the on position to anything over half throttle. The post SMOKE ON! — Make a Cheap & Easy Smoke Muffler appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  5. JShumate

    Easy Aileron Servo Installation

    Here’s a common, very popular way to install aileron servos. To make field maintenance more convenient, install your servos with hatches built into the wing so they are flush with the wing’s underside.. The first thing I do to get the aileron servo hatch properly aligned is to install the aileron control horn and then attach the linkage. I then use the linkage as a guide for the placement of the servo arm slot I cut into the hatch. The linkage should be straight and 90 degrees to the aileron hinge line. Once I have the slot location figured out, I draw a rough sketch on the inside of the hatch cover centered on the servo spline. Here I am using ProTek RC T330 digital, metal spline servos from A-Main Hobbies. To support the hatch cover, I use lite-ply to line the servo compartment opening. Here you see some balsa strip material glued to the lite-ply cross piece to form the opening. It is about 3/8 inch wide to give plenty of support to the fabric covering. Once this is all done, I place the hatch cover (also made of Lite-ply), in position and I trace the clearance around the opening. This is to determine the placement of the servo and its supports. I use hardwood blocks for the servo mounts and I support them with 1/16-inch plywood gussets. All is glued with Thick Zap CA Glue. Here I am making sure the servo arm is centered on the slot guideline which lines up with the aileron control linkage. A Heavy Duty Du-Bro servo arm is being used. A slot about 1/4 inch wide is best for most servo installations. I use a Moto-Tool and a round bit to cut two holes at either end of the slot. I then use a hobby knife to cut the slot between the two holes. A little sandpaper makes the slot neat and clean. Here the hatch and servo have been installed and screwed into place. You will need to determine the length of the slot by using your transmitter to move the servo arm back and forth. You can see I had to make a little clearance in the lite-ply support cross piece to clear the servo arm. To complete the control linkage, I use a scrap of wood and a couple cloth pins to center the aileron. The servo hatch is now screwed into place with cap head sheet metal screws. You can also used flush fitting counter sunk wood screws if you like. it’s your choice. Since this is my 1/3-scale Triplane with a 94 inch span and a 80cc engine, I secured the hatch with six screws. For smaller airplanes, four screws (one in each corner) will be enough. Also here you see the clevis at the servo has been soldered to the 4-40 control linkage wire. I use Stay-Brite high silver content solder for all my control linkage soldering. That’s it. Give it a try, it looks much neater than just having the servos sticking out of the wing. The post Easy Aileron Servo Installation appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  6. We just received the new Rotorball Sweeper quadcopter from Graupner USA. This fun and unusual rotordrone is very rugged and crash proof with its built-in dome like cage. Ideal for the beginner as well as experienced drone pilots, the Sweeper is about the size of a basketball. Watch for a product review in MAN coming soon. Equipped with LEDS, this quadcopter is great for day and night flights. The 6-blade propellers are protected within the built-in safety cage. The Graupner Droneball Sweeper comes with everything needed. Including a custom fit backpack and propeller installation tool. Indoor airborne soccer is a definite possibility. The post Graupner Rotorball Sweeper — New in Office appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  7. A very popular Air Racing pilot in the Red Bull Series is Race #99 Mick Goulian, and he has been burning up the race course for several years. Back in the early 1990s, Mike was a top level competition aerobatic pilot flying his beautiful red and white Staudacher GS-300. The same characteristics that made his aircraft so popular at the time, translate nicely into a sport scale aerobatic RC model, and editor Gerry Yarrish designed and built a .60-size version which appeared in the February 2007 issue of MAN. If you are looking for a retro semi-scale aerobat to build, this might be what you are looking for. Here are some photos and details to show how simple the design really is. Gerry designed and built the first prototype model using CAD and he included the pilot friendly Kaos airfoil in the wing design. Everything is very easy to build and all the balsa and plywood parts are easy to make using basic hobby tools and equipment. Once the first one was assembled, Gerry made a kit of model parts and gave it to MAN contributor and flying buddy George Leu, who built a second model, which after test flying the original model, made minor tweaks to the design to improve performance. These changes were made to the plans sold in the Air Age Store plans library. If you want to buy a set of construction plans for the “Lap Map” Staudacher, CLICK HERE. All the parts of the model are very basic and easy to make. Balsa, Lite-ply and birch plywood is used throughout. The tail surfaces are as simple as can be and are made using 1/4-inch balsa stock. The firewall, engine box and the forward wing support former are all made of plywood for strength. They also support the main landing gear attachment plate. The engine cowling is made from a combination of balsa, plywood and blue insulation foam. Once carved and sanded to shape, the cowling receives a few layers of fiberglass cloth and resin. Be sure to check out the upcoming March 2019 issue of MAN for a How To article showing in detail how Gerry built this “One Off” engine cowling! There’s plenty of room in the fuselage for any RC gear you plan to use. There receiver and battery pack are covered over in this photo above with some white Sig Mfg. foam rubber padding. There are several scale tailwheel assemblies available but for simplicity, the original model used a Du-Bro tailwheel bracket and tiller arm arrangement. Not the dowel elevator joiner and Robart control horns. Here is the original exposed servo arrangement for the ailerons. In George’s Beta model, flush fitting servo hatches were used. The wing’s center leading edge is recessed to fit into the fuselage around and above the landing gear attachment area. Fairings at the front and back of the wing are built in place with the wing bolted on place. Note that all of the hinging for the model was done with Robart Hingepoints. By recessing the leading edge slightly at each hinge it closes up the hinge gap for a neater scale-like appearance. Here’s George posing with the prototype “Lap Map” version of the Staudacher. All the markings and the pilot figure were from Cajun RC (no longer around). Mike Goulian and his amazing full-size “Lap Map” Staudacher. Gerry has been toying around with the idea of enlarging the Staudacher into the 80-inch wingspan range for gas power. Back in 20004 Gerry’s Staudacher won second place in the Designer Class at the WRAM Show in White Plains, NY. This set of 3-views were drawn by Gerry and approved by Mike Goulian. They have also been published in MAN. The post MAN Plans Highlight — Staudacher GS-300 appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  8. One thing I’ve learned over the years is that the response of your airplane relies a lot on the hinges you install. Weak hinges allow your control surfaces to flex which minimizes control crispness. This is especially true with high performance and fun fly airplanes. When it comes to installing hinges, I use Du-Bro Products’ pinned hinges and the tools required to do the job. Here’s the basic technique that every RC builder/modeler should know. Show here is my Florio Flyer 60, a retro aerobatic sport fun fly design. With its enlarged control surfaces and powered by an O.S. .72 engine… so it needs strong hinging. Many ARFs and several basic kits today use easy to install CA cloth hinges. But with fun fly planes having extra power, something more sturdy to stand up to the wear and tear (and vibration,) especailly in the tail is needed. For this I rely on the pinned hinges from Du-Bro Products. To install them you have to cut hinge slots in the edges of the control and flight surfaces and the easiest way to do this is with Du-Bro’s Hinge slot cutter tools. These are very easy to use and you can cut all the slots and insert all the hinges in an entire plane in less than 30 minutes. Here’s some of the details for the process. You need few tools and supplies. The Du-Bro hinges and Hing Slot Cutting tools are available at most hobby shops. The glue shown here, called “Hinge Glue” from Pacer Zap Glue is no longer available, but Zap Canopy Glue works equally as well, being the same formula but just drying clear. A long skinny applicator tip makes getting the adhesive deep into the slots a piece of cake. But this is done of course, after the model has been covered. First things first, use a marking pen or pencil and find the centerline of the control surfaces and determine the locations of the hinges. Use your finger tips and strike a centerline along the edge of the surface and then flip the surface around and check to make sure your line is centered. For a glow powered sport plane, I always uses at least 3 hinges per surface and most often 4. Two hinges is not enough as if one fails, you will lose the entire surface in flight. Use the forked tool that’s the width for the hinges you are using (here the 1/2-inch hinge tool) and insert into the edge of the surface at your marked location. Use a rocking motion and slowly push the tool into the surface about 3/4 inch deep. Make sure to center the tool and keep it parallel to the surface. If it is angles, the ends will protrude out the side of the surface. Clean out the waste material from the middle of the hinge slot with the clean out tool. This picks the material cleanly out with a sweeping motion and the width of the tool blade makes the slot perfect for the hinge to be glued into it. Here you see the freshly cut slot and the leading edge slightly recessed (about 1/16 inch) with a hobby knife. This helps minimize the hinge gap between the mating surfaces. Here you see the difference between the recessed hinge slots in the rudder (left) and the yet to be recessed hinge slots in the elevator (right). Having neat, tight fitting hingelines and slots both looks better and helps minimizes the chances of control surface flutter during high speed flight. The same tools are used for the ailerons. Shown here is the hinge inserted and you can see that it protrudes through the leading edge strip. This is fine as there’s plenty of gluing surface covered to properly support the hinge. In larger planes where less than half of the hinge leaf is covered with balsa, you have to glue in additional material to form a deeper hinge slot pocket. For hinges to operate smoothly and not bind, it is important to install all the hinges so they all fall in line with each other. This hinge alignment is especially important for longer surfaces like the ailerons on this fun fly airplane. With the model all covered and finished, the final step is to insert the hinges and glued them into the movable surfaces. Let the glue dry and then apply more glue to the fixed surfaces and insert the hinges into place. Being water based adhesive, you can wipe away any glue that seeps out with a damp paper towel. Make sure the hinges all line up properly and set the surfaces aside to dry over night. When that’s done, go ahead and install all your control linkages and you’re done! Until next time…. Build Something! The post Tips for Installing Strong Hinges appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  9. One of North America’s most accomplished aerobatic pilot Michael Goulian is a recognized aviation professional with a 30-year-plus career of excellence in the air. Now a prominent competitor in the Red Bull Air Racing series, Mike took time out if his hectic schedule to answer some questions about his time in the cockpit. Model Airplane News editor Gerry Yarrish has worked with and communicated with Mike over several years for various articles involving full-size aerobatic aircraft, and as able to chat with him to get his back story that is the subject of this interview. If you would like to read this amazing interview, and see his exciting video, Click Here to subscribe to the Model Airplane News Premium website, filled with exclusive online content. The post New for Premium Members — Red Bull Pilot Mike Goulian Interview appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  10. JShumate

    19-Foot Convair B-36 Peacemaker

    In the early years of the Cold War, one strategic bomber, the Convair B-36 Peacemaker was at the forefront of the USAF’s efforts to blunt Soviet aggression. Entering service in 1948, the B-36 was the primary nuclear weapons delivery vehicle of the Strategic Air Command (SAC) until it was replaced by the jet-powered Boeing B-47 and B-52 bombers in the mid 1950s. One of the most impressive RC versions of this 6-engined behemoth is Carl Bachhuber’s scratch built 19 foot monster scale bomber. Carl’s B-36 is built to 1/12-scale and has an amazing 230 inch wingspan. It weighs in at approximately 98 pounds and is powered by six Zenoah G-26 gas engines. Built using traditional balsa and plywood construction, the B-36 uses custom made retractable landing gear built by Robart’s Bob Walker. After years of operation, the B-36 has flown hundreds of flights at dozens of RC events. The post 19-Foot Convair B-36 Peacemaker appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  11. JShumate

    New Electric Jet Rally

    The Imperial RC Club, is getting ready to host their first annual Florida E-Jet Fest at the club’s local RC field. The date for this new Jet-In is February 8 thru 10, 2019. If you need even more of an excuse to enjoy the weather in Florida, the event will also have three events you can compete for. These include: Best Scale Jet (combined static and flight score) Best Static Jet Best Scale Flight So mark your calendars, like everything else the Imperial RC Club is involved in, this is going to be a great RC event to attend. The post New Electric Jet Rally appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  12. JShumate

    VQ Warbirds DHC-6 Twin Otter

    This new DHC-6 Twin Otter has great scale looks and features fiberglass cowls, functional opening doors and scale details printed into the covering. A large battery hatch makes changing packs easy. It is fun a fun airplane that’s easy to assemble and it has easy flying characteristics. Optional factory VQ Warbirds’ floats will be available. Specifications: DHC-6 Twin Otter 25-size EP Wingspan: 73.6 in. Length: 53.9 in. Weight: Approx 7.5 lbs. Radio : 6 channels with 6 servos (4x Micro 19grams – 2x Standard servo ) Power: 2x Boost 25 Motor with 4500mAh 11,1v (3s) LiPo Battery Street Price $269.95 The post VQ Warbirds DHC-6 Twin Otter appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  13. JShumate

    Plane with no Moving Parts

    MIT engineers have built and flown the first-ever plane with no moving parts. Instead of propellers or turbines, the light aircraft is powered by an “ionic wind” — a silent but mighty flow of ions that is produced aboard the plane, and that generates enough thrust to propel the plane over a sustained, steady flight. Since the first airplane took flight over 100 years ago, virtually every aircraft in the sky has flown with the help of moving parts such as propellers, turbine blades, or fans that produce a persistent, whining buzz. We may be seeing the beginning of the end of that. Unlike turbine-powered planes, the aircraft does not depend on fossil fuels to fly. And unlike propeller-driven drones, the new design is completely silent. “This is the first-ever sustained flight of a plane with no moving parts in the propulsion system,” says Steven Barrett, associate professor of aeronautics and astronautics at MIT. “This has potentially opened new and unexplored possibilities for aircraft which are quieter, mechanically simpler, and do not emit combustion emissions.” He expects that in the near-term, such ion wind propulsion systems could be used to fly less noisy drones. Further out, he envisions ion propulsion paired with more conventional combustion systems to create more fuel-efficient, hybrid passenger planes and other large aircraft. Barrett and his team at MIT have published their results today in the journal Nature. Hobby crafts Barrett says the inspiration for the team’s ion plane comes partly from the movie and television series, “Star Trek,” which he watched avidly as a kid. He was particularly drawn to the futuristic shuttle crafts that effortlessly skimmed through the air, with seemingly no moving parts and hardly any noise or exhaust. “This made me think, in the long-term future, planes shouldn’t have propellers and turbines,” Barrett says. “They should be more like the shuttles in ‘Star Trek,’ that have just a blue glow and silently glide.” About nine years ago, Barrett started looking for ways to design a propulsion system for planes with no moving parts. He eventually came upon “ionic wind,” also known as electroa-erodynamic thrust — a physical principle that was first identified in the 1920s and describes a wind, or thrust, that can be produced when a current is passed between a thin and a thick electrode. If enough voltage is applied, the air in between the electrodes can produce enough thrust to propel a small aircraft. For years, electro-aerodynamic thrust has mostly been a hobbyist’s project, and designs have for the most part been limited to small, desktop “lifters” tethered to large voltage supplies that create just enough wind for a small craft to hover briefly in the air. It was largely assumed that it would be impossible to produce enough ionic wind to propel a larger aircraft over a sustained flight. “It was a sleepless night in a hotel when I was jet-lagged, and I was thinking about this and started searching for ways it could be done,” he recalls. “I did some back-of-the-envelope calculations and found that, yes, it might become a viable propulsion system,” Barrett says. “And it turned out it needed many years of work to get from that to a first test flight.” The post Plane with no Moving Parts appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  14. JShumate

    A New SE5a Scout is Born

    One of the more popular aircraft to come out of the Great War was the SE5 and SE5a Scout built by the Royal Aircraft Factory (RAF). No surprise that the SE5 Scout is also a very popular choice for scale RC modelers. We caught up with our good buddy and Top Gun Static Scale Judge Bob Curry to learn more about his newest project. (Photos courtesy of Sean Curry). Bob Curry: I’ve been working on this 1/4 scale S.E.5a kit , on and off, since last November. It is a Balsa USA kit and It’s now just about ready for covering with “Antique” Solartex. (Yes, I had bought several large rolls just before the covering became “Extinct”. My Scout is powered with a Zenoah G-38 equipped with a B&B Specialties spring started and muffler. I am using Futaba radio gear and servos. The airborne system is powered by two 2200mAh LiFe battery packs connected in parallel through a redundant Smart–Fly “Bat Share” device. I can’t say enough about the quality and value of Balsa USA WW1 kits. This is my fourth Balsa USA kit build (1/4 Nieuport, 1/4 Fokker Dr.1, and 1/3 Fokker D.VII), and with the exception of a small scale outline modification to the top wing center section cut-out, it is built exactly as designed. The fun part for me now is picking off all the various “Fiddly Bits” not included in the basic kit but are unique to the full scale aircraft: Wire Rigging, Lewis Gun, Telescopic Gunsight, Windscreen & fairing, Landing Gear bungee fairings, Lower Cowl extensions, Cockpit detail and Pilot Figure (Aces of Iron). I’ve not yet decided on my final choice for Color and Markings but I’m now down to a short list of just three WW1 British Aircraft. Finish will be brushed “Baer” Latex paint custom mixed at Home Depot. I’ll prep the Solartex with about six thinned (50/50) coats of Sig Mfg. Butyrate over Nitrate dope. In my experience, it seems to keep the Solartex from bubbling or sagging over time. All markings will also be masked and hand painted. (Just like the original) My plan is to fly it at the Rhinebeck WWI RC Jamboree next September. The post A New SE5a Scout is Born appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  15. JShumate

    VQ Warbirds F6F Hellcat

    The new 60-inch span F6F Hellcat from VQ Warbirds is a great looking .46 EP/GP ARF with awesome looks and performance. The Hellcat features working flaps, a painted pilot, machine guns, antenna and lots of other scale details to make this warbird really stand out on the flightline! With a generously sized battery hatch, you can easily use either electric or glow power. Optional factory electric VQ rotating retracts and VQ/Robart Hellcat gear struts are also available. Specifications: Wingspan: 60.4 in. Length 44.5 in. Weight (ready to fly): 3,5 kg (vary with equipment in use) Engine: .46 (2 stroke) – .70 (4 stroke) Radio: 8-chanels with 9 servos . (5x standard servos and 4x Mini servo (7grams) for flaps) Electric Motor: Boost 50 motor or similar size Glow Power.46 – 2 stroke engine Battery: Lipo 14,8V 4500 mAh Street Price $239.95 www.vqwarbirds.com The post VQ Warbirds F6F Hellcat appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
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