Jump to content

JShumate

Administrators
  • Content Count

    1,155
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by JShumate

  1. until
    The Peoria RC Modelers will be hosting our 4th Annual Warbirds on the Warpath event, July 19th though the 21st, 2019. Since this a military aircraft event, we wanted to find a way to honor our local veterans. We have proudly partnered with Greater Peoria Honor Flight. Our goal this year is to help send area veterans to Washington DC to experience the memorials that are testament to their service. Our home field is a beautifully groomed 600’ grass strip with a 300’ hard (fabric) surface runway, multiple bay charging station, 9 pilot stations, easy access, primitive camping and convenient to shopping and hotel lodging within 10 minutes of our field. Our event will feature a salute of World War I and II aircraft. All military aircraft from any era along with classic aircraft are welcome. Peoria RC Modelers Field14501 North Old Galena RoadChillicothe, IL USA
  2. Bet you’ve never seen an AT-6 like this before! That’s because this incredible 126-inch-span aircraft is a prototype for a new CARF-Models offering. Flown by Andreas Gietz, this T-6 is powered by a Moki 250cc 5-cylinder radial engine that sounds magnificent and provides more than enough power (check out those really high-speed passes!). Split fl*ps, retracts, and a functional sliding canopy are the icing on the cake of this composite model. Thanks to Pete and Dean Coxon (aka Tbobborap1 on YouTube) for sharing this terrific video they filmed at the RC show at Weston Park in the UK. The post 1/4-Scale AT-6 Texan appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  3. MAN contributor Rich Uravitch has a review and flight report on the new F-4 Phantom from E-flite and it looks like this 80mm EDF is a real keeper! With functional scale features like LED landing and navigation lights, full-flying stabs, operational fl*ps and control surfaces with pocket hinges, sequencing nose gear doors and electric retracts with shock-absorbing struts, this F-4 is a beaut! Large enough to impress, you can fly off most flying field surfaces, including grass runways. The 6S-compatible brushless in-runner motor and 100-amp ESC are perfectly matched to an 80mm 12-blade fan to deliver impressive thr*st and speed. It’s also the easiest to assemble Phantom ever with a factory-finished EPO airframe that simply bolts together—no glue required—in less time than it takes to charge a battery. Watch for the next issue of MAN (October 2019). The post Sneak Peek: E-flite F-4 Phantom appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  4. The post Scale c*ckpits Made Easy appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  5. Induction into the AMA Model Aviation Hall of Fame is one of the most prestigious honors that an AMA member can receive. AMA is pleased to announce the 2018 inductees: Tim Dannels, Robert Dodgson, Mark Freeland, Robert Kopski, and the late Cliff Telford. Established in 1969 to recognize those who have made significant contributions to aeromodeling, hall of fame recipients are chosen by a committee. The nominees are evaluated on their efforts to boost the sport of model aviation through volunteering, competing, developing products, and/or performing administrative duties. In addition to receiving a plaque and a patch, living hall of fame inductees are given an AMA Life membership. Tim was nominated for the honor by Bill Mohrbacher, Model Engine Collectors Association president, for his 55 years of continuous service to the model aviation community. Tim is one of the founders of the Society of Antique Modelers club and has edited and published books and a journal about model engines. Tim Dannels accepts his plaque. Robert Dodgson, a model sailplane pilot, was nominated by Peter Becker for his many contributions to the sport. These include designing and manufacturing model sailplane kits, competing in Thermal Duration contests, and publishing newsletters about Soaring. Inductee Robert Dodgson. Robert was presented with his award during the Inaugural AMA District XI NW Jamboree. Pictured with him is Peter Becker who nominated him for this honor. A Free Flight (FF) pilot and competitor, Mark Freeland founded his company, Retro RC, in 2008. In addition to designing and manufacturing products for the FF community, Mark has created kits that help teach youth about the importance of Science, Technology, Engineering and Math. Mark was nominated by Joe Hass. (L-R) AMA Model Aviation Hall of Fame Inductees Pete Waters, Keith Shaw, Ken Myers, Bob Bienenstein, Mark Freeland, and Mark’s wife, Barb. Considered one of the pioneers and leaders of electric-powered model aircraft flight, Robert Kopski has shared his equipment and passion with countless modelers. He was nominated by Bruce Fenstermacher for his “continuous dedication in a span of over 30 years—gaining knowledge through meticulously doc*mented experimentation … and sharing that knowledge with thousands of fellow modelers.” Inductee Robert Kopski. Cliff Telford, who passed away in 2005, has an AMA scholarship in his and his wife’s name that was established by many of his RC Pylon Racing friends. During his lifetime, Cliff served as a contest director for many RC Pylon contests and as an event director at several AMA Nats. He helped establish the Quickie 500 RC Pylon Racing contest that is fl own at the Nats. Cliff was nominated by his son, Drew. Inductee Cliff Telford with his wife, Nancy. Read more about the 2018 class, and past inductees, at www.modelaircraft.org/museum/history-recognition/ama-model-aviation-hall-fame. View the full article
  6. From aluminum foil to household corner molding, these cheap and easy workshop tips use common items or scr*p material to make your RC airplane modeling time easier and more enjoyable. Have a great tip you’d like to share? Email it to man@airage.com! OVERSPRAY PROTECTOR When you’re painting, it’s important to protect parts from overspray. This could include pushrods, landing gears, motor mounts, etc. You can use masking tape, but that can be difficult to remove. An easier m*thod is to tightly wrap all the parts that need protection with aluminum foil-it’s far easier to remove than tape. If you still need that sharp tape line, just mask off where the part meets the painting surface. HOME FOR YOUR BOLTS Here is an easy way to make sure you have your Allen bolt for attaching your canopy to your fuselage when you get to the field. Just make this handy bracket to hold your bolts inside the aircraft. The bracket is cut from plastic corner molding or aluminum angle iron. Cut a piece about 2-3 inches long and drill four holes into it for the bolts to hang in place. Epoxy or scr*w the bracket somewhere out of the way inside the fuselage. Now when you pull you bolts out of the canopy, just slide them into the brackets and they’ll be there the next time you are ready to assemble the plane. GIVE YOUR FOAM A GLOSS LOOK If you paint foam with acrylic paint it gives it a nice look and makes it a little more durable. Acrylic paint is great to use because it will not react with the foam, and it will leave a flat dull finish, which is great for warplanes or military aircraft, but not so good for aerobatic and civilian aircraft. You can put a shine on the finish by using liquid acrylic long-lasting Shine floor wax. It will dry in about 20ñ30 minutes leaving your color scheme with a good-looking and shiny paint job. TOUGHING UP YOUR WHEEL PANTS Running wheel pants on any surface will wear them down and dirt and grass runways are especially rough on them. Here’s an easy way to reinforce them. First, cut out a small square shim out of 1/64 plywood sheet. Place this shim inside the wheel pant, over the attachment point, where the Allen scr*ws bolt into the blind nuts. Glue them in place with CA or epoxy. Now thin out a small batch of epoxy with rubbing alcohol and coat the entire inside of the wheel pants. This will help to strengthen it while still keeping the weight down. This should give them a fighting chance on rough fields and the not-so-perfect takeoff and landings. The post Model Airplane Tips & Tricks appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  7. So you’ve finished painting your new scale airplane and it looks nice and shiny and brand new. You check your model one more time against your photo doc*ments of the full-size plane and there’s som*thing just not quite right… What is it? Well, it would be a safe guess that your full size subject airplane, even if is a nice and shiny freshly painted aircraft, when you look at it, it will seem toned down a little bit. It’s just not as shiny and crisp as your model. Why? The answer is a little surprising. (Above) My Balsa USA 1/3-scale Fokker Triplane, with the weathering technique described in this article, was good enough to win First Place in the popular World War I class at the WRAM show. Say your new model is 1/4-scale. So, if you look at your model and then look at your full size subject, if they are viewed so they are relatively the same length, your full size plane would have to be four times away from you to be the same relative viewing size. So what? Well, there’s four times as much air between your eyes and your subject. This really does make a difference. And, there’s other very subtle differences even close up. The world is full of dust and grime, and airports and airfields are far from sterile environments. There’s dust in the hangars and even birds that deposit their markings on the planes that has to be cleaned away. So you see, for your model to look more scale, you have to compensate for the closer distance you view your plane from and you have to “d*rty” it up a little. (Above) Here’s my subject aircraft. Not shiny new, but not rusting away either. Being Subtle There’s an old saying that scale modelers live by. “When you think you have enough weathering added to your model, you have about three times too much!” So, I try to hold myself back and just as I can pick up the difference my bit of weathering adds to the surface, I stop. Also, I prefer to use materials that are easy to remove should I get too heavy handed. Some modelers add a dull flat clear coat to seal their weathering in place. I do it the other way around. To help k*ll the brightness of a freshly painted model, I will shoot a very light mist of flat clear over the surfaces. Just enough to k*ll that sheen. Then, I apply my weathering to specific places that the eyes are drawn too. Not the entire model. (Above) Here’s the aft fuselage hand hold on the model. It was installed before the model was weathered. Everything looks too new and unused. (Above) Here is the hand hold with some grime and snudges added to the red fuselage and a little bit of brown added to the hand hold to show some age. After all, our airplane is suppose to be “airworthy”, not a long forgotten derelict. I concentrate on those places where mechanics and handlers would actually be touching the plane when they worked and moved the airplane around the airport. Wingtips, hand holds, foot steps, and along panels that would be removed and replaced on a regular basis. Rules of Weathering One thing that will help you a lot is to know that there is no true black or white used in the weathering process. You can save a lot of tone adjustment but cutting your white and black paint with a little gray. If you make a WW1 airplane, like my Balsa USA 1/3-scale Triplane, instead of painting all your white surfaces with bright insignia white, that you later need to tone done, use a very light gray instead. The tone of gray can vary depending on the overall color of your plane. There is a color called Juneau white, that works great on scale models. Applied to a model that is a bright color, it looks to all the world as true white, but if you apply it over insignia, or bright true white, you can see it is actually a tone of gray. (Above) Here is a stirring stick I dipped into my can of Juneau White. I show it on top of my red tool box. Looks white to me right!? (Above) Same stick about 30 seconds later placed over a white control surface. Yep! It’s actually a light shade of gray. The same is true for black. I like to cut my black paint with a bit of brown and some yellow to cut that empty black tone. Even adding a little dark blue will make black look better. Then, when it comes to aging parts that are painted black, I use various shades of gray. One last tip. When you mix your colors, always start with the lighter color and then darken it. Never try to make a dark color lighter. This is because of the intensity of dark vs. light colors. It takes very little dark paint to darken the tone of a light color, but it takes an incredible amount of light color to make a dark color lighter. This will also help you be more subtle with your weathering. By first spraying a model like my triplane a true base color of Tennessee red. I then make a small batch of lighter and darker toned red. I lightly mist the lighter red to the upper surfaces since the real airplane has faded a bit, and then on the lower and bottom surfaces, I add the darker tone of red. The lighter tone of red is made using the white as a base color and the red added, and the darker tone starts with the red and brown and gray is added to it. If you do this correctly, you can not see the demarcation lines of one tone over the other. Again, the secret of realism is being subtle. Dirt and Grime If you are really a sport modeler at heart and just want to paint your model and go fly, then a lot of realism can be accomplished with just a little bit of dirt, grime and smudging. My old stand by is pencil graphite. Use a coa*se grit of sandpaper and rub a pencil tip, (I like using mechanical pencil lead,) on it and collect the dark dust in a small container. (Above) Tools of the trade. What’s very cool about graphite dust, is that it is not solid black! It is actually a dark tone of gray. This is great because you can use it on any color. I like to use an old soft paint brush to apply the dust to the model in long stokes to create a light long smudge. (Above) Collecting the dust in a small container is a lot cleaner than trying to use it on a piece of paper. (Above) An old soft paint brush is used to apply the dust like eye shadow! (Above) Grime and dust collects along fine edges like on rib tapes. For areas where you want more you can scrub the area with the brush. If you want even more dark tone, you can simply use your finger tip to really work it down into the weave of the cloth. And, here’s the best part, if you add too much or you do not like the appearance you can simply wipe it away with a moist paper towel. (Above) Finger smudging is quick and easy and makes a big difference. The graphite darkens lighter colors. (Above) the same dust applied to a dark panel edge adds a lighter effect that looks like signs of wear. I add the dark grime along rib stitching on the wings especially in the propeller blast areas that would see a fair share of engine oil. I also do the white areas on the tail as well to produce that used looks. Another place to add steaks of dust is behind any control surface hinges, but just a little to give the impression that a bit of oil has run back from the hinge pins. (Above) Here behind the aileron hinge, you see the graphite dust is not black, but a shade of gray. Yes the Dubro hinge has to be painted a dark brown to look scale. (Above) Some more hinge streaking. Subtle but definitely convincing. (Above) Without weathering, the Fokker’s big white rudder, just looks too bright and new. (Above) Here’s the stabilizer and elevator with the white toned way down with graphite smudging. So that’s it. When we talk scale planes we are taking d*rty! But not so d*rty that it makes the airplane look like a wreck. Again, the secret is to be subtle. Viewed from far away, your model will look much more like the real thing, and up close, the details will pop! Check out the upcoming review of the Balsa USA Fokker Triplane in the February 2016 issue of MAN. Here’s a sneak peek. http://www.modelairplanenews.com/blog/2015/10/16/13-scale-fokker-triplane-flight-report-sneak-peak/ The post Workshop Build-Along — WW I Weathering appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  8. To say I am a proud dad would be right on the money. My son Sean and I have been flying RC for about 10 years here in sunny South Florida. He started at the age of 8 and quickly became a confident, fearless pilot, which is typical for the savvy youngsters who aren’t paying for the stuff. We progressed through the trainers and got into warbirds and eventually 3D, but our love of those “terrors of the sky” remains passionate. We started flying warbird formation about six years ago and quickly realized that it takes some skill and more importantly, practice and discipline, to stay together up there. We’ve had our share of spectacular and expensive mid-air disasters, but eventually we began to learn what the other was doing. Whoever leads the formations calls the maneuvers and gives about a two-second delay before initiating each skill of the routine. Honestly, my son is the one who stays on my b*tt and the reason why we look so good. Once you call “Smoke on!” and do a few synchronized loops and rolls, everyone starts watching … and then you hit them with a low-pass, high-speed bombing run! Pictured are our Hangar 9 P-47 150 and the Hangar 9 Supermarine Spitfire. The Jug runs a Zenoah Air 26 with a 16×8 prop and in the Spitfire, an O.S. 91 four str*ke with a 13×8. Each aircraft in our warbird fleet is equipped with Slimline smoke system components and custom-fabricated bomb releases. While we do drop the beautiful scale H9 bombs, they tend to get pretty b*sted up after a few drops, so for practice, we use the Hobby Lobby ‘red bombs’ that are inexpensive and easy to find in the tall grass! I can’t tell you how many lost bombs are still somewhere out in those fields! Making a simple bomb release The bomb drops are made by cutting roughly a 2 ½ square on the underside of each wing as close to or on the CG line. Next, CA some balsa str*ps along the inside of the edges of the openings that are used to scr*w the hatches back into place . You can then attach the bomb release to the cutout hatch. We used the drop mechanisms that come with the red Hobby Lobby bombs and they are simple and reliably release. Cut a hole for the servo linkage to drop down through the hatch and attach it to the hatch with wood scr*ws. Use a micro servo and attach it to the inside of the hatch with CA. We built up the servo mount with a few balsa pieces to elevate the servo slightly. Use a small piece of medium-gauge wire for the push rod, which is so short it will be plenty strong enough. Depending on your wing size, use the appropriate servo extension to make it to the wing center. If you have a one-piece wing, you can use the Y-harness right there to tie-in with the other wing’s bomb. With a two-piece wing, you’ll have to run a Y-harness from your receiver and hook each one up separately. Assign it to an aux channel and with a flip of a switch, you’ll be blowing up the enemy in no time! TIP: Be sure to add a little nose weight to each bomb (about three pennies works well) so they drop away and stay level, otherwise they’ll tumble after a second or so. Why smoke? What can I say, RC smoke systems are just cool! Although mostly seen in 3D planes, a good smoke system looks amazing in a scale-flying warbird any day! We use a 24 oz. smoke tank in the P-47 and a 12 oz in the smaller Spitfire, which gives us about two minutes of good smoke. The smoke goes fast, so we use it only for the called maneuvers “smoke on” finish out the move and “smoke off.” When you synchronize it, it looks like you know what you’re doing. We’ve been known to smoke out the pit area with the low passes… So, if you fly a warbird, you should try outfitting it with a smoke system and some bomb releases! If you run fl*ps and gear and want to be able to smoke and bomb ’em with separate controls, you’ll need eight channels. Slimline makes superb smoke m*fflers, pumps and all the necessary smoke system gear for all-size engines. We are based at the Palm Beach Radio Control Association in Delray Beach, FL, which has the largest club membership in the country. If you’re ever down in the area, be sure to come out and fly. We have a beautiful 600 ft. tennis court-grade asphalt runway and a well-manicured grass str*p to boot. By Chris Seiler chris@burningvisions.com Photos by: Emily Wooten The post Bombs Away! Easy Upgrade. appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  9. This Henry Haffke design was built as part of a team effort with Henry and MAN editor Gerry Yarriish building and detailing this impressive icon of National Air Racing fame. Here are more of the finishing techniques used to detail the Howard “Ike”. Scale Exterior Panels One of the details that’s a real part of the Howard Ike (or any other classic air racer from the 20s and 30s,) is the metal panels used to finish the fuselage with. Much of the airplanes were covered with fabric, but around the engine and the c*ckpit, basic sheets of metal were used. Here’s how they replicated this obvious detail on my 1/3-scale model. After covering all of the areas with fabric, (21st Century painted Coverite,) thin poster board stock was used to establish the size and shapes of the various panels. The engine cowl section is all covered with balsa sheet and it was finished with two layers of .75-oz. fiberglass cloth and Pacer Z-Poxy finishing resin. Once all the cardboard templates were made, all the panels were cut from 0.015-inch fiberglass G-10 sheets available from FTE (franktiano.com.) You can only use these panels for flat areas. Panels that have compound curves won’t work, but this is OK. Most of the early aircraft used flat section panels and kept curved and formed parts to a minimum. Here the panels are being fitted into place. To make it easy to scr*w them into place, the scr*w holes were drawn with CAD and they were cut with a laser while producing the panels. . This close-up shows the overlap of the panels with the fabric covering and the bare balsa surfaces. Also note the fueler cap is in the scale gas cap position. To keep the sheet panels from buckling, start in the center of the panels and add the scr*ws to every other hole, and work outward to the edges. The G-10 fiberglass sheet material also makes great templates. I used them to guide where I was going to add the raised louvers on the glassed surface of the engine cowl. Just slide a hobby blade into the slot and all the louvers will be equally spaced! . And talking about raised louvers, here some of the aluminum louvers are being added! Let’s look at the technique more closely Scale Louvers and Exterior Surface Detail Ok, with the smooth scale exterior panels in place, here’s the skinny for making those characteristic raised louvers that are so much a part of any scale model of the Howard “Ike” Racer. Being done in 1/3-scale and using laser-cut panels and templates makes this task a lot easier. Like I said before, all the panels and templates are made from G-10 fiberglass sheet material, specifically, 0.015-inch sheeting which is very easy to bend into place. In the photo above a hobby knife is inserted through the slots into the engine cowl section with a hobby blade so the louvers can be pressed into place. . Here, all the aluminum louvers have been inserted into the louver slots. Each of the louvers is made from 0.020-inch thick aluminum flashing material cut into ¼-inch wide str*ps. Using the template, the ends of each louver is bent about 90 degrees and is inserted into the slot. The aft edge is raised about 1/8-inch and the front is pressed down against the panel. Thin CA glue is used to secure each louver into place. The outer bends in the louver str*ps is bent to match the angle of the slots cut into the fuselage panel section. To install louvers in the engine cowl section, the template was taped into place and then the louver slots were cut with the hobby knife. Here with the template removed you can see all the evenly spaced louver slots cut into the fiberglass finished balsa surface that makes up the engine cowl side panel. Here are all the side louvers installed and glued into place with thin Zap CA glue. The full-size Ike had a two piece cowl arrangement with a long piano hinge running along the center top of the cowl. To replicate this detail a piece of plastic covered wire was used with cuts made around the wire in evenly spaced sections to look like the barrels of the hinge run. . Next, to form the hinge leaf edges, 1/4-inch wide str*ps of aluminum heating tape were added on either side of the wire. Using a length of sharpened music wire, evenly spaced scr*w holes were added. . The final touch is to scr*w into place the small scr*ws. The detailing is now ready to paint. . . Mask off the model along the edges of the panels to cover up the fabric covered sections.Double layers of newspaper and painter’s tape were used for this. . . Now with the model masked off, apply two light mist coats of FeatherCoat Primer from F&M Enterprises, (scalestits.com), and then after waiting 30 minutes, apply a coat of PolySpray silver undercoat, then 3 or 4 light mist coats of Poly Tone White! All the paint was applied with a HLVP (High volume low pressure) spray gun. . The finishing touches for any scale model, are the decals and aircraft markings. Here the lettering by Callie-Graphics.com gas been applied. Note: the scale exhaust stacks are none functional. Only lengths of aluminum tubes inserted into the side of the cowl and painted black. FTE: franktiano.com Callie Graphics: (505) 281-9310; info@callie-graphics.com F&M Enterprises: scalestits.com The post Scale panel and Louver Details appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  10. Over the past several years, the arrival of ARFs has provided a means for many to quickly get into RC flying. Today, preassembled models have improved to the point where many exceed the level of ability, interest, and even flying skills of the purchaser. No matter the reason, ARFs do fill a very necessary niche in the RC airplane marketplace. While I personally enjoy creating a model from materials or a builder’s kit, I still find a great deal of satisfaction in being able to get a new model airborne in short order. All the necessary tools and material to execute your “mini makeover”- airbrush, markers, and paint! All the factory-applied markings have been removed prior to paint application.However, there is one thing that ARFs don’t do well and that’s provide unique models with personality or an appearance that’s different from that of its production line mates. If you want to learn some new skills, let’s personalize that typical cookie-cutter flyer!Weathering and detailing an ARF isn’t som*thing to be done only to larger and more expensive warbirds. The nice part about this adventure is that you start with a relatively inexpensive model with proven performance. We can dramatically change its appearance without affecting that impressive flight performance. The techniques involved are the same regardless of the size, cost or complexity of the basic model. I was initially concerned that this treatment would add significant weight to the model and affect its fun-flying qualities. Have no fear; the ParkZone Ultra Micro T-28 Trojan flies just as well as it ever did and only gains 2.5 grams in the process.The first step is using doc*mentation to choose the full-scale version you want to duplicate. Most popular subjects have nearly unlimited schemes. The first step is to choose a color scheme that you like and want to apply to your model. This can be as involved or as simple as you’d like but today, unlike the “olden days,” there are tons of images available from a variety of Internet sources-all you have to do is pick one! In the case of my T-28, I chose a restored Trojan that duplicated the markings used in Southeast Asia in the 1970s. It’s the typical brown and green “camo” scheme that was worn by most airplanes at the time. It creates a whole new look on the model, distinctly different from the bright “Navy trainer” colors in which the model is supplied. Other choices might include an alternative Navy trainer scheme of all yellow with red or green mission bands, the attractive early USAF aluminum and orange/red scheme, or even the Desert camo seen on the Fennec version. The choices are nearly unlimited and there just has to be one out there for you. Since the Micro Trojan is molded foam, you need to use foam-safe paint for your makeover. Do not use lacquer-based spray cans as many of the solvents and propellants used can damage the Trojan’s surfaces. To be safe, use acrylic, water-based paint such as the Model Master series by Testors. These paints are a perfect match to the actual colors used on the full-scale aircraft. They’re available in small bottles that can be brushed or airbrushed on to your model. Some colors are also available in easy to use spray cans. Either way, make certain the paint you choose is foam friendly. Another benefit of the Model Master paints is this it bonds well to the surface and isn’t easily separated by using masking tape for color separation lines. In the case of camo schemes, the airbrush is used to freehand apply the colors with an airbrush. No masking required! SCALE MARKINGS OK, now that all the paint is applied, there only three things left-the markings, panel lines and the weathering. Nothing particularly complicated here, as long as you have a computer and decent printer. To produce the markings I needed, I scanned a set of after-market decals that I had in my collection and enlarged them to the appropriate size for my micro model and printed them out in “high-quality” mode with my ink jet printer. I printed them onto self-adhesive label paper sheets to which I had applied clear tape over the printed images. I scuffed the tape down with a Scotch Brite pad to remove the gloss and then carefully cut around the edges with a new no. 11 hobby blade. I then removed the backing and applied the markings to the model. Everything seemed to stick very well, even the smaller markings. Since the T-28 is electric powered, no clear top coat or fuel-proofing is necessary. Small pieces of card stock or posterboard are used as straight edges for the application of panel lines.PANEL LINES Using photos or reference drawings, apply your panel lines with a fine-tip, permanent marker. The application can be as simple or elaborate as you choose. I use heavy card stock as a straightedge and cut a slight arc in a length of card stock to form a guide for applying the panel lines to round contours like the fuselage. The inclusion of these lines adds a visual interest and creates a pleasing and realistic overall effect. WEATHERING While obviously not essential, a bit of weathering adds to the model and further enhances realism. The technique is really easy. Use a small, pointed brush and some silver paint, and dab the surface randomly to create a worn, chipped-paint effect. Pictures can be helpful but imagination is really what gets the job done. Just imagine how aluminum panels, vibrating against each other, pounded by kicked-up dirt, sand and small stones would affect the airplane’s finish. Leading edges are generally impacted the worst with the paint being completely gone on some of the more dramatic examples. Take your time and work carefully. Don’t fall into the “if some is good, more must be better” trap. Subtlety always appears more realistic than heavy-handed applications! A final touch comes with the application of exhaust staining on the fuselage sides. The T-28 was notorious for discoloration and staining in this area, so much so that many of the standard factory paint schemes often included black-painted panels to minimize the d*rty appearance and to make maintenance easier. I used the airbrush and a grayish-black color to simulate the exhaust. Note how the density is reduced the further the exhaust gets away from the source. The mini Trojan flies by in its handsome new “skin.” Quite a difference from the stock version! Note exhaust staining on fuselage side.TIME TO ADMIRE This is the part that makes it all worthwhile. Place your model on your workbench and just look at it. Compare it to the one pictured on the box in which your Trojan arrived. Some difference, huh? You think you’re impressed? Wait until your flying buddies see it! You’ll clearly be identified as the newly emerging scale guru. The nice part about the exercise is that the technique, research and materials are the same, regardless of the size or scope of the project. You’ll have learned some new techniques, created a distinctively different model and, hopefully, sparked an interest in doing even more on your next model! The post Micro Warbird Makeover appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  11. There are few 1/4-scale models of the Beechcraft Staggerwing, and the most popular RC design is the one from Nick Ziroli. It’s outline is very close to scale and it produces a great looking scale airplane. When it comes to making them look real, you need to use some scale parts and techniques. Here are a few close up pix of this impressive example. Painting your model is the last bit of finishing and it’s the part most noticed. For great results use the same paint as used on full size airplanes. stits.com is the place to get the stuff. Poly Tone paint works great and is designed to work with the heat shrinkable Poly Fiber covering. That big radial engine cowl reaaly benefits from a d*mmy engine installation. If you don’t have the cash for a Robart 4-str*ke 7-cylinder radial engine, there are plenty of resin cast d*mmy engines that will hep cover up your RC gas engine. And the finer details like proper color, lifter rod tubes and spark plugs and wiring all add to the appearance. So, you do have to get inside the airplane to work with and maintain the radio gear and linkages, so why not add functional cabin doors. These work great and give easy access to the internal parts. A removable cabin interior helps hide the RC hardware. For the various RC radio gear and engine ignition switches placing them in a secluded area like here between the fuselage firewall and the engine cowling, greatly improves the model’s looks. They are just as accessible as they would be if you had just cut holes in the side of the fuselage and installed there there. Of course that ruins the scale looks of any airplane. As with most Ziroli designs, the Staggerwing is designed to use the custom made Robart Staggerwing gear. Besides saving a ton of time and effort, the Robart gear work great and are very scale in appearance. Those wheel also look great and are machined from aluminum. The post Detailing a Ziroli Staggerwing appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  12. Sand and spinach, sea-foam gray, navy and duck-egg blue … we’ve seen a lot of schemes for WW II Spitfires, but a pink one? We came across this interesting article on io9.com and think it’s worth sharing. Author Esther Inglis-Arkell writes, “World War II marked a time of great innovation, which was sometimes practical and sometimes loony. Those two kinds of innovation came together when great military minds decided that to keep an airplane from being spotted, they needed to paint it pink. Find out why a pink aircraft can get lost in the sky. The Spitfire is a much loved plane, even today. Built in the late 1930s, it has the look of a classic airplane, with an oblong, slightly rounded body, wings that look like a huge oval strapped to the plane, and a ‘blister’ of glass over the c*ckpit. Whenever someone steps out of a Spitfire they should have on leather flying gloves and an aviator’s scarf blowing in the wind. That scarf, however, may be very tough to match with the plane. Spitfires went through extensive rounds of camouflage paint, from dark and light brown, to a pale gray, to a baby blue. Perhaps their most unusual color, though, was a light pink. The pink, slightly too washed-out to be an actual baby pink, still seems bright enough to signal every enemy within five miles. This is certainly true when the Spitfires were seen from above. They stand out brightly against the ground. To make sure they were rarely seen from above, these planes were painted to fly just under cloud cover. Although the planes were ideally meant to fly at sunset and sunrise, when the clouds took on a pinkish hue and made the plane completely invisible against them, they were also useful during the day. Clouds are pinker than we give them credit for. We perceive them as white against the sky because the particles in the sky scatter blue light, sending some of it down towards us and letting us see the sky as blue. Clouds scatter every kind of light, and against the intense blue sky look whitish gray. But their color depends on what kind of light gets to them, and what they are floating next to. Although we see the sky as a radiant blue, the particles are actually filtering out a lot of the blue light that gets down to the earth’s surface. When the blue light is scattered, a good deal of it goes right back up into space, which is why the atmosphere of earth glows blue in some pictures. This filters out a good deal of the blue that gets to the clouds. The clouds scatter what they have, which is a spectrum of light with at least some of the blue filtered out, shifting the overall light ever so slightly towards red. Add to that the fact that the water droplets in clouds can diffract light at different angles, and the clouds are often rife with pastel shades of pink, orange, and green. They look white compared to a glowing blue sky, and a quick glance leaves people with the impression that they are white, but a long look should reveal this shifting, if minor, shades. A light pink plane is safer against them than anyone would expect. It is much safer against them than even the pilots would expect. One of the troubles with the Spitfire was the fact that the pilot felt garish and exposed. Having to keep an eye on the sky above to check for enemy aircraft, fly with cloud cover, and frequently fly at dawn or at sunset, and these Spitfires were real challenges to their pilots. There’s no denying that the camouflage works in the video. About six minutes into the video, when the plane flies, you can see it’s very noticeable against the blue sky, but suddenly blends extremely well as it passes in front of small clouds. As early spy planes they allowed the Allies to collect much-needed data, while flying close to the ground. And of course, in the evenings, when the sky was pink with the sunset, they were far more invisible than a white plane shining against a pastel cloud. Pink Spitfires are lovingly maintained today, enjoyed for both their service and their relative novelty value. Let’s hear it for pink.” The post A pink WW II warbird appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  13. Some photos speak to you in ways that others don’t, and for me, this is one of those. In fact, it haunts me. For whatever reason, the sight of so many fresh young faces smiling into the camera, every one of them knowing they were about to experience the horrors of war, seemed to drive home the fact that WW II was fought by neighborhood kids who should have been hanging around the malt shop or working on their jalopy. America wasn’t then, and isn’t now, a warrior society. Regardless of how the rest of the world sees us, we are, in our hearts, not geared to take the offensive. It is seldom, if ever, that we take to arms without being goaded into it. However, to paraphrase Isoroku Yamamoto, when the sleeping giant awakens, stand back! We are h*ll on wheels when in defense mode, and when that requires us to go on the offensive to strike back at our enemies, we are more than willing to do so. And generally do so with a vengeance. Each of the young men in this photo, as casual as their posture may make them appear, knew exactly what lay ahead of them. Their ship, CV-10, the USS Yorktown, seen here transiting the Panama Ca*al on the way to the Pacific in mid-1943, was originally going to be named Bon Homme Richard. However, before launching, it was renamed to commemorate a previous carrier, the USS Yorktown (CV-5): barely a year earlier CV-5 had gone down in the Battle of Midway taking hundreds of young men just like these with it. And that was the kind of motivation that put these young men on this ship. They knew the fight had been joined, and the only way to win was to throw everything they had into it. Regardless of whether they were from New York’s Lower East Side or a black dirt farm west of Omaha, these young men and their not-so-young leaders loved their nation’s way of life and would defend it in any way and anywhere necessary. Be it as a nation, as a branch of the service, or as individuals, they recognized the threat, and they’d be d*mned if they’d negotiate with what we would now call terrorists. Their war would be unconditional. Their service would be unconditional. The surrender they would demand would be unconditional. Today, it’s nearly impossible for those of us who benefitted from these young men’s actions to put this photo into context. It’s hard for us to remember that the SBDs and TBFs on the deck were state of the art, the period’s equivalent of Super Hornets, and that their ship, straight decked and barely half the size of a modern carrier, was a floating fortress, feared and stalked by their enemy. It’s hard for us to remember that hundreds of thousands of other seamen grinned into thousands of other cameras for the folks back home. For many of those at home, a photo like this would be the last tangible memory they would have of their fathers, sons, husbands and brothers. If the question were asked of those in the photo, “Would all of you who are still alive today, please raise your hands?”, we know that the number would be pitifully small. If, on the other hand, the question asked was, “Would all of you who would willingly do it again, please raise your hands?,” we know the vote would unanimous. That’s just the kind of people they were. And that’s just the kind of nation we are. To those who didn’t return: your hometown is safe. You did your duty well. And for generations we’ll be trying to live up to the standards you set. -Budd Davisson, editor-in-chief, Flight Journal magazine A note from Budd: Memorial Day coincides with the newsstand release of the August issue of Flight Journal. In our continued celebration of the Navy’s 100th anniversary in this issue, we focus on the role of the Navy in WWII and, while preparing that article, we stumbled across the photo above. It reminded us what Memorial Day is all about, som*thing we can’t forget. The photo had a profound effect on us and we thought we’d be remiss if we didn’t share it with our readers. The post Memorial Day Tribute: Hometown America Goes to War appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  14. Researchers from CU Boulder will fly drones into severe storms this spring and in 2020 in one of the largest and most ambitious drone-based investigations of meteorological phenomena ever. Project TORUS – or Targeted Observation by Radars and UAS of Supercells – is a partnership between CU Boulder, the University of Nebraska-Lincoln (which is leading the work), Texas Tech University, the University of Oklahoma and the National Severe Storms Laboratory. Funding comes from the National Science Foundation and the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. Support also comes from the CU Grand Challenge program and the Integrated Remote and In Situ Sensing initiative. The goal is to collect data to improve the conceptual model of supercell thunderstorms – the parent storms of the most destructive tornadoes – to help with future forecasting. Fieldwork will run from May 13 through June 16 and will cover virtually all of the Central Plains including parts of North and South Dakota, Texas, Iowa, Wyoming, Nebraska, Kansas, Oklahoma and Colorado. It is the largest study of its kind based on the geographical area covered and the number of drones and other assets to be deployed. The list of equipment for the project includes four unmanned aircraft systems, a NOAA P3 manned aircraft, eight trucks equipped with meteorological instruments, three mobile radar systems, a mobile LIDAR system, and three balloon-borne sensor launchers. In all, more than 50 scientists and students from the four universities will participate. This year the CU team includes three faculty, four staff members, five graduate students (including one international visiting graduate student) and six undergraduate flight crew members. The CU team hopes to expose how small-scale structures within the storm — believed to be invisible to all but the most precise research-grade instruments — contribute to tornado formation. Understanding this better would reduce the number of false alarm tornado warnings and improve detection of the potentially lethal storms. CU’s portion of the project is led by faculty from the College of Engineering and Applied Science through the Integrated Remote and In Situ Sensing initiative. The team is responsible for piloting the four drones around the storms to measure temperature, pressure, humidity and wind speeds. Drones are a critical component of the project because they sense data from inside the storm – data that cannot be obtained without physically being there to take the measurements. Combined with remote sensing data obtained by the other collaborators, the expectation is that these measurements will help reveal how severe storms evolve to create tornados. The principal investigators at CU are Aerospace Department Chair Professor Brian Argrow and Professor Eric Frew. Both have years of experience and multiple field deployments doing this kind of work and will be on the road with the team this spring. Frew said this project is a great representation of their ongoing research, expanding partnerships and CU’s recognized expertise in the field. “This project is the result of partnerships that have developed over the past 15 years to conduct this type of deployment,” he said. “In 2006 Associate Professor Adam Houston, the overall Project TORUS leader from the University of Nebraska, visited Professor Argrow here in Boulder, and they created the initial concept of operations for studying supercell thunderstorms with drones. Since then we have created new partnerships together and collaborated on several projects designing the technologies used for this mission.” IRISS Chief Engineer Steve Borenstein said the opportunity for hands-on experience for students through the project, as well as the opportunity to observe severe weather with some of the nation’s top meteorologists is unrivaled. “Our field campaigns challenge the entire team every day in terms of solving logistical problems and technical troubleshooting. Every student has a critical role in the preparations and mission deployments, including pilots, operators, and ground support,” he said. “Deployments are a tough three weeks, but the students leave with experience and memories that will last them forever.” The post Flying Into The Storm! appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  15. No doubt about it, among warbirds, the Vought F4U Corsair ranks way up near the top as a favorite with RC modelers. The bent-wing bird, as it’s often called, has ... Continue reading ... Join our premium membership! The post Warbird Makeover. Small details, big results appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  16. After checking your engine performance and the radio operation, always make sure that your model is properly balanced before your first flight. It happens too often, unfortunately: Someone with a ... Continue reading ... Join our premium membership! The post Center of Gravity Basics appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  17. Many sport scale biplanes are designed with wings that are strong enough without the use of rigging wires (landing and flying wires). However, if you want to add them as a scale enhancement for its appearance or if you are building a scale multi-wing which does need them, here’s a great way to make them without expensive scale turnbuckles. Remember, even if they are not required, the do increase the strength of your model’s wings. I Here’s how it’s done using standard, readily available RC hardware. For the steel braided cable, use 60-pound test nylon coated fishing leader line available at most sporting goods outlets. It is fairly inexpensive and one 300ft roll will last for years. It is also the same cable I use for pull-pull rudder setups. The Du-Bro Crimps and threaded rigging couplers are 4-40 size and fit perfectly with the steel clevises from Sullivan Products. A standard crimping plyers from the hardware store works great. Sullivan clevises come with small snap-on safety clips. They work great and prevent the clevises from popping open under load. You will also need some brass stock. A couple of 0.032 in. x 1/2 inch str*ps from the hobbyshop will do the job. The material cuts easily with tin snips. Cut out the attachment brackets from the brass str*p and use a bar clamp to hold it on the workbench while drilling the holes. Cut them to a length of 3/4 inch, but any similar with will work, you need enough length to easily install the clevises. Here the 3/16 inch hole for the 6-32 strut attachment bolts is being drilled. It is much easier to trim the brackets to size after the holes have been drilled. The smaller 1/16-inch holes are for the clevis attachment. To aid in drilling, mark the hole placement on the brackets with a Sharpie, then center punch to prevent the drill from wondering out of place. Use a larger drill bit to deburr the edges of all the holes on both sides of the bracket. Here a finished bracket for dual rigging wire attachment. All the Flying wires (leading from the bottom of the fuselage to the tops of interplane struts are doubles. The Landing wire, (running from the tops of the Cabane struts to the bottom of the interplane struts) are singles. A total of 12 cables are required. Here are the parts for a typical cable end. (Left to Right,) Du-Bro Threaded Rigging Coupler, Sullivan steel Clevis, 4-40 jam-nut, Du-Bro Crimp and the 0.032 inch steel cable. Start by slipping the crimp onto the cable and then insert the end of the cable into the hole in the threaded coupler. You need to have about an inch to an 1 1/4 inch passing through as shown above. Bend the cable over onto itself and push the crimp over the end of the cable. Make the loop snug, but too tight against the coupler. Place the crimp into the crimping jaws and squeeze. Place one of the handles on the workbench and use the extra leverage of both hands to make the crimp. Here is a properly applied crimp. it should be straight centered on the cable and with no cr*cks. Now apply a drop or two of thin ZAP CA glue. This helps lock the crimp into place on the nylon coated cable. The final step is to slip a length of heat shrink tubing over the crimp and heat with a covering hot air gun. This also sets off the ZAP glue forming a very secure cable end. Here is the bottom end of the left landing wire attached to the bottom of the front interplane strut. The attachment brackets are held in place under the head of the 6-32 cap-head bolts used to attach all the wing struts. And here’s the top of the front right landing wire. The attachment bracket is also held in place with the cabane’s 6-32 attachment bolt. It is important while making the second cable end, to first slide on the crimp and the heat shrink tubing before attaching the clevis and threaded coupler. Under Tension There is no secret formula for figuring out the length and tension of your rigging wires. Attach one end of the cable and then loop the cable though the other coupler and check the overall length. Loosen the attachment bolt which allows the bracket to hang slightly. Then through trial and error, adjust the loop until the second clevis can be attached snuggly into place. Then when retightening the strut bolt, it removes all the slack. Once you have all your cables attached, you can “pluck” the cables to judge their tightness. Loosen the jam nut and twist the cable a few turns to fine tune the tension. Double Cables Here is the double cable installation. Thee effort to get both cables close to the same tension is time-consuming so work slowly and you’ll get them adjusted properly. Here’s the bottom of the left front Flying wire group, attached to a single bracket. Notice it is attached to the bottom of the fuselage with a single #4 scr*w. The scr*w threads into hardwood landing gear block. The lock clips have yet to be installed on the clevis pins. Here’s the top of the left front Flying Wire group. This long shot shows the attachment of the aft flying wires just above the bottom wing. In the full-size aircraft, there were openings in the top and bottom of the bottom wing root that allowed the aft flying wire group to pass through and attach to the bottom of the fuselage at the aft landing gear strut attachment cl*ster. A bracket is installed above the bottom wing root. Very similar to the other double cable brackets it is placed so the bottom wing can slide on and off the wing tube without disturbing the cable attachment bracket. You can see here that a cut is slit in the fuselage in the wing root saddle area and the bracket passes through it and is anchored internally. Here’s the inside view through the belly hatch. The end of the bracket is bent 90 degrees and a scr*w secures it to the plywood doubler supporting the aft landing gear strut. The large hole is the passage for the aileron servo leads. Here you see the double flying wires and the single landing wires on the right side of the Camel. Also a note here to make sure to check the tension of your rigging when you set your model up to fly for the day. After checking all the wire tensions, snug down the jam nuts, then add a drop of ZAP Formula 560 Canopy Glue to the nut and coupler. It dries quickly and acts like thread-locker but is much easier to deal with. So that’s it. The rigging wires add both strength to the Sopwith Camel’s wings and they also add much to the model’s appearance. Stick and fork in it, this Camel is done and ready for the flying field! The post Making Functional Biplane Rigging Wires appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  18. When it comes to competing at Top Gun, there are two parts to the aircraft’s score; the static score and the flight score. Before the flight rounds are flown, aircraft in the Masters, Expert, Team, and Unlimited classes must first be judged for their static score. The model is inspected and evaluated according to the modeler’s own doc*mentation booklet and points are given for Outline, Color, Markings and for overall Craftsmanship.In case of a overall Static Score tie, then the tie is broken by the highest Outline score. Then the aircraft is flown in several flight rounds with the lowest being a throwaway and the the others added up for the flight score. The final flight score and the Static score are then added together to come up with the contestants overall score for final standings. Here below are the top Static Score Winners Class Modeler Aircraft Static Score Sponsors Masters David Hayes Ayres Turbo Thrush 99.167 CARF-Models This 99-inch-long, 1/5-scale crop-duster is powered by an E-flite Power 60 electric motor turning an APC 19×10 prop. David flew his Thrush with a Spektrum DX9 radio to earn 161.842 total points and placed 3rd in the class. David won the “Mr. Top Gun” title with his Rockwell Thrush, (a different model) in 2008 and 2009. Expert Peter Goldsmith Hawk 100 99.00 Warbirds West Built from the Tomahawk Aviation all-composite kit, Peter’s Hawk 100 earned a nearly perfect score with 99 points from the static judges. It’s powered by a KingTech 210 turbine engine and weighs in at 50 pounds. Peter flew it with his Spektrum DX 20 radio to earn 196.1 total points, winning the Expert class and the coveted Mr. Top Gun title. Team Phil Noel / Rei Gonzal*z MiG 15 96.33 Red Bull Built by Phil Noel from the Skymaster kit, this 1/4-scale jet is powered by a Jet Central Cheetah turbine. Rei piloted it with a Spektrum DX20 radio to earn 191.158 total points and placed 4th in the Team Scale Class. Unlimited Joe Castelao T-34B 98.25 Metal Building Supplies The Best of the West Beechcraft T-34 was built by Joe Castelao and piloted by Ali Mach*ncy. it has a 136 inch span and was built from enlarged Bob Patton plans. Ali flew the Mentor with a Spektrum DX18 radio system to earn 196.850 total points which allowed the aircraft to win 1st place in the Unlimited class for the third year in a row. The post Top Gun High Static Winners appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  19. Each year at Top Gun, there are dozens and dozens of amazing scale aircraft that find their way to the Static Judging table . With the best judges in the industry, the Top Gun Scale Invitational has the highest level of excellence you’ll find at any scale event. Several judges share the tasks of checking scale outline, color and markings and comparing their findings against the modeler’s doc*mentation. The work is non-stop and all the judges deserve to be recognized for their efforts. Craftsmanship judge and MAN contributor Rich Uravitch has a very unique point of view during the judging process and he has shared just some of the photos he took this year. See these amazing aircraft up close and personal brings you a whole new level of appreciation of the work and craftsmanship involved in producing a truly Top Gun level scale model. Up close and personal, Rich Uravitch gets right up to the aircraft to check out all the fine details and how precise the builders of the models accomplished their builds. Below just some of the photos Rich took during the Static Judging process. The post Top Gun From the Judging Table appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  20. We always learn how to perform new maneuvers by watching the stick movements of a top notch pilot, but what the pilot knows is that there computer mixes is what makes their life easier when controlling the aircraft. Now we are going to present a few tips that will make it easier for you to perform those same aerobatic tricks. Our main focus this time is on radio programming and setup. This knowledge is a key element that enables pilots to fly outrageous 3D maneuvers with a computer radio system. Learn to take advantage of your computer radio, and you’ll be able to improve your flying in a variety of ways. Having a properly set up plane with the right radio programming makes performing both simple and complex maneuvers a little easier. Let’s see what we can program in and how it will help. DUAL AILERONS Dual ailerons allow you to program some mixes that will keep the plane on track. Yes, in some cases, this doubles the weight of the aileron servo, but not always. Depending on the plane, you don’t always need a servo of the same size as you would use to power both control surfaces. You might be able to get away with using smaller and/or lighter servos because they each have to power only one control surface. The programming advantages of having two separate aileron servos far outweigh the weight gain. When you install two aileron servos, make sure that you plug them into separate channels on the receiver. Don’t use a Y-harness because it will negate the programming advantages of having separate servos. If you have a servo for each aileron, you can use the spoileron or flaperon program, and this will allow both servos to work as one aileron servo. This program also allows the ailerons to serve a dual function: with a flip of a three-way switch, you can have both ailerons drop and function as fl*ps while still working as ailerons. Flip the switch the other way, and the ailerons move up and work as spoilerons-again, while still functioning as ailerons. Both mixes also allow you to program in some aileron differential. This is the ratio of up-to-down movement of each aileron. Many planes need more movement from the upward-deflecting aileron than from the downward-deflecting aileron. This allows the plane to roll true, and it eliminates unwanted yaw when the ailerons are applied. The spoileron or flaperon program allows you to have a servo for each aileron yet still allows them to function as one. The advantage is that you have control of the rates, endpoint adjustment, centering and the amount of differential for each servo; this lets you refine your plane’s flying characteristics. The Stylus’s Spoiron screen is shown. DUAL RATES Dual rates allow you to switch from one control deflection to another. By simply flipping a switch, you can reduce or increase the amount of deflection. This feature comes in handy when you’re flying a plane that is used for normal flying and hard, 3D flipping around. Standard or low rates (small deflections) are used to fly the plane smoothly around the sky; but right before you enter a big 3D maneuver, you flip a switch and then have 45-degree movements (or more) on the control surfaces. Though you might need that much deflection for the maneuver, it would be hard to fly the plane smoothly and precisely at normal speed with those deflections; that’s where dual rates come in. When you’ve finished flying the maneuver, flip the rate switch back to standard rates, and continue to fly with lower deflections. Above: dual rates allow you to switch from one control deflection to another. On the Airtronics RD8000, the screen shown is where you program that in. When the dual-rate screen is in position 2, the aileron servo has 125-percent throw. EXPONENTIAL Another program that works with dual rates is exponential. Exponential programming is mainly used to soften or decrease control-stick sensitivity around center stick. Without exponential, a control-surface servo will move in a distance that’s proportional to the stick movement. For example, if you move the stick 50 percent of its available movement, the servo will also move 50 percent of its available travel. This is often referred to as “linear throw” or “linear movement.” Using exponential (“expo”) changes the relationship between stick deflection and servo travel. With expo, you might move the stick 50 percent of its available movement, but the servo will move only perhaps 20 percent of its available travel. Of course, the servo travel depends on how much expo has been programmed in. Keep in mind that exponential settings do not change the servo travel available at 100 percent of control-stick deflection. If the stick is at the end of its range of movement, the servo will be at the end of its available travel. Exponential changes how much servo travel you get with stick deflections of less than 100 percent. Expo helps pilots by reducing the stick’s sensitivity at center stick and allowing them to fly more smoothly with larger control throws. Imagine having large, 45-percent throws on a control surface on a plane flying straight and level. You move the stick ? inch, and the control surface moves Ω inch, so the plane veers off-course quite a bit and makes your flight look j*rky and erratic. With expo programmed in, that slight stick movement doesn’t cause any surface deflection, and your flight looks smooth and controlled. Expo also helps if your hands shake while you’re flying; it prevents your anxiety from being “transferred” to the control surface. Above: exponential programming is used mainly to soften or decrease the stick sensitivity of the control around center stick. Expo helps pilots by allowing them to fly more smoothly and with larger control throws. On this screen, when the dual rates switch is in position 2 (high), the ailerons have 70-percent exponential. MIXING If you use the mixing function on your transmitter, you can really improve your plane’s flight characteristics. These suggested radio mixes will help to improve the way the plane flies in a variety of attitudes. Radio mixing allows one transmitter control input to affect two or more flight functions. How much they affect the secondary function can also be programmed in. RUDDER TO ELEVATOR/RUDDER TO AILERON MIX. This allows the plane to fly straight when you use the rudder, especially during knife-edge flight. To figure out what to program in, fly your plane in knife-edge. If it pulls towards the canopy or the gears, you need rudder-to-elevator mix; if it rolls to the right or left, you need rudder to aileron. Radio mixing allows one transmitter control input to affect two or more flight functions. On this screen, when the rudder stick is moved, it also affects the elevator’s movement. This mix is used for knife-edge flight.THROTTLE TO RUDDER. This mix will help the plane fly straight when at full throttle; it’s generally needed when flying a vertical upline. Most of the time, you will need to mix in a little rudder input when the throttle is at full. This keeps the plane flying straight during the vertical upline. This rudder input will be activated by the throttle stick. THROTTLE TO ELEVATOR MIX. This helps the plane to maintain a straight downline. Most planes will try to “right” themselves as they build up speed when traveling downwards. If you program in a little down-elevator when the throttle is low, you’ll prevent this from happening. On this screen, when the throttle stick is moved, it also affects the elevator’s movement. This helps the plane to maintain a straight downline.That’s it. By taking advantage of your computer radio’s programming features, you can make any plane fly better. Check your radio’s manual to see whether you have these features and how you can program them in. Then see how quickly your aerobatic routines and maneuvers improve. The post Ease your pilot load — Easy programming for 3D maneuvers appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  21. After you’ve painted your model, add some weathering to really bring a scale plane to life. Each technique by itself is very effective and, added together, really produce astonishing realism. My friend Dave Reid commissioned me to paint his giant-scale SNJ Texan, and it has been the example for these ongoing how-to articles. I weathered and detailed the Texan, which I painted with latex in early U.S. Navy markings. As I mentioned in the earlier article, a little goes a long way, so always use a light touch when d*rtying up your scale models. How much weathering should you do? Always consult your reference photos, and stop when you think you’re halfway there. “Steel”-colored paint and coa*se steel wool make great-looking “chipped” paint. The wings take a beating. Flaking and chipped paint is a must. Be sure to add a small amount of chips to your tail feather’s leading edges.After getting the base paint just right and you’ve done basic weathering, a typical worn look can be made by simulating paint chips flaking off. Getting the paint to look like it is flaking off is not very easy. Some use a silver undercoat and then sand off the paint over it to give a worn look. To me, however, aircraft paint doesn’t flake off smoothly unless there’s a consistent wearing agent such as feet on walkways and arms resting on window rails. I think to get the most realistic paint flakes, you have to paint them on. I use two techniques. The first works well for very small chips in the paint, and it produces a very random effect. Dip plain old steel wool (I use a coa*se grade) in a little puddle of steel-colored paint (not silver!). Silver is too bright; you want the chipped-off area to look like it has been there a while. Steel paint looks more like oxidized aluminum and appears more natural. After dipping the steel wool in the paint, pat it on a piece of cardboard or cloth to remove the excess. Then pat the steel wool on the surface you want to look like chipped paint. Vary your angle, and rotate the steel wool to keep it random. The second technique is a little more time-consuming and more tedious. I use a “liner” brush and steel enamel model paint and just paint the chips on. The fine liner brush adds to the linear effect that looks scribbled along the leading edges of control and flight surfaces. Again apply the paint in a random pattern. Just keep in mind the effect that may be happening on the aircraft. On the leading edges of the cowl and wings, the paint will chip more with the airflow due to rocks, grit, bugs and so on that knock the paint loose. On fuse-lage side panels, the paint chips on edges and runs along the panel seams. Hatches get more wear, so around those edges the paint flakes, and sometimes the panels get thrown on the ground and get scratched. Also, paint peels away from rivet heads, so to get that effect, you have to paint steel around rivets too. Keep all this in mind, and apply your paint with a purpose, but also keep it random. When in doubt, check your reference. Wing walks This color doc*mentation photo shows how really worn out the wing walks can get. Duplicate the wing-walk pattern with bits of masking tape.Now, to make the Texan look like it has been used by many flight cadets, you have to add some severe wear on the wing-walk areas near the fuselage and c*ckpit entries. On the full-size aircraft, these were coated with a nonskid coating, much like rough sandpaper, to prevent the skyward-bound aviators from slipping and falling off the wing. I found a photo of a Texan that I thought would be very interesting to duplicate its worn wing-walk areas (see at left). Note how the nonslip coating has peeled off from use. After masking off the basic rectangle shape of the wing-walk area, I tore little bits of masking tape and placed them in a random fashion to simulate the wear patterns shown in the photo. I mix microballoons into my “wing walk” paint to produce a convincing, non-slip surface. Mixed with the microballons, I use a brush to apply the Liquitex paint to the wing. Here, the dark non-slip has been applied, but it still needs weathering. A good dose of Model Master acrylic “leather” paint has been applied.I created a scale nonslip coating because I didn’t think sandpaper glued to the wing would look very convincing. I used Liquitex acrylic paint, which is fairly thick, and mixed it with microballoons. The microballoons give the paint a grainy texture that looks just right. Add enough microballoons so the Liquitex is saturated with them, and then just paint the mixture on with a brush. Of course, you can’t just paint the wing walk a deep rich black and leave it that way. It doesn’t look real! To weather it down a little, I airbrushed a light gray wash over the black. After that had dried, I wetted the surface down and applied a good dose of Model Master acrylic “leather” paint, rubbing it back and forth to spread the color out while the paint was still wet. I dabbed at it with a paper towel very lightly to break up the streaking and give a little “pitter-patter” effect. Mud and grime collects on the surface; it then gets ground in by people walking on the surface. Then with rain and airstream, it dissolves and flows back and against the fuselage. This subtle mottling of the various colors replicates the color and appearance of the actual wing walk. The effect is subtle, but very effective. When you’ve finished, pull away the masking tape and see how beat-up and realistic the wing walk looks! The last photo really shows the grain and peeled effect very well. The blue paint under the nonslip coating will eventually look like it has worn down to the aluminum, but that can be done later. Rub the “leather” color in with your fingers and really spread it around while it’s still wet. Dab with a paper towel and you now have that mud and grime look. Here are the finished results. Pretty “beat up,” ‘eh? A little bit of steel color makes the wear look like it has reached the aluminum wing skin. TEXT & PHOTOS BY LYLE VASSER About the Author RC modeler and warbird lover Lyle Vasser has been hooked on aviation all his life. He received the “bug” from his father while watching him fly one-channel models in the 1960s. Lyle has been flying RC aircraft for over 30 years, and is also a full-scale pilot. One facet of the hobby that has always been interesting to Lyle is how to make pilot figures in scale models look lifelike. After being frustrated by the unrealistic pilot figures on the market, he decided to make his own, striving to create pilot figures that are just as detailed as the models they go in. He owns a company called Best Pilots (bestpilots.typepad.com), that arguably offer the best pilot figures in the hobby. The inset shows one of Lyle’s pilot figures in a scale P-47 Thunderbolt. The post Scale Modeling: Weathering Tips & Tricks appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  22. A First Class Stick & Tissue Compet*tion During the past few years, event org*nizer, Leonard Bechtold, Bob Curry, and L*N Henderson, have been striving to keep alive the old tradition of the free-flight, mass-launch event. The roots of the event were planted several years ago by Dave Platt who showed everyone how free flight models are suppose to perform, back in the very early days of Top Gun. Model aviation in its purest form, the Top Gun free flight event is both very challenging and ultimately rewarding. Open to anyone who wanted to compete, the free flight rubber power scale event is open to all Top Gun pilots, their crews, event staff, photographers, and anyone else who wants to show up early for the mass launch. The planes need to have a minimum span of 36 inches for monoplanes and 24 inches for biplanes. The model have to represent an actual manned aircraft but they can be from any time period. Models can be built from kits or plans, but no ARFs or foamy models wre allowed. There were no limits on the model size or number of rubber motors used. Trophies were awarded (to third place) for Flight Duration and for Craftsmanship. Each year, this is a fun event and the craftsmanship of all the aircraft remains very high. Early in the morning or late in the afternoon, (weather permitting) some of the free flight contestants performed test flights so they could fine tune their model’s trim setting in the hopes of an acceptable flight during the mass launch. Craftsmanship 1st Place Bob Curry SE5a Scout 2nd Place Frank Mintz Rearwin Speedster 3rd Place Leonard Bechtold Stinson 108-2 (Blue/White) Duration 1st Place Dave Platt Cessna 180 2nd Place j*ck Buckley Stinson 108-2 (Yellow) 3rd Place Frank Mintz Rearwin Speedster 4th Place Bob Curry SE5a Scout 5th Place Leonard Bechtold Stinson 108-2 The post Top Guns Free-Flight Scale appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  23. This 80% scale Mustang, built in the U.S., puts on a show at the Willis Warbirds Fighter Meet in Little Gransden, UK. Love that V8 engine and 4-blade prop! The pilot is eerily lifelike. The post Mini Mustang: Is it scale? appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
  24. Every year at the Top Gun Scale Invitational special achievement awards are presented to the standouts in the various classes. Here is are the 2019 winners starting with the High Static awards. (Photos by David Hart) (Below) “Mr. Top Gun” Peter Goldsmith Awards Modeler Aircraft Static Score Sponsors Masters High Static David Hayes Thrush 99.167 CARF-Models Expert High Static Peter Goldsmith Hawk 100 99.00 Warbirds West Team High Static Rei Gonzal*z MiG 15 96.33 Red Bull Unlimited High Static Joe Castelao T-34 98.25 Metal Building Supplies X-Class High Static Rob Lynch F-18 97.75 Cortex Demon Gyro Civilian Runner-Up j*ck Buckley Mini-Mac Homebuilt JR Propo Best Civilian (Pilots Choice) Steve Thomas Waco YMF-5 Riff-Raff Best Military Runner- Up Mike Fetyko Spitfire Ray & Robin’s Hobbies Best Military (Pilots Choice) Chuck Hamilton SBD Dauntless Horizon Hobby Best WW2 Wayne Layne P-38 Lightning Dr. Jet Best Biplane Frankie Mirandes DH-88 Tiger Moth Model Airplane News Best Golden Age Richard Feroldi Davis D-1K Desert Aircraft Best WW 1 Todd Bixby Albatross Balsa USA Best Pre WW2 Jeff Pike Stinson SR-10 Warbirds over the Rockies Best Jet Henry Castellanos F-100 Falcon Propellers Best Pro-Am Pro Roberto Zelaya L-39 Albatross Your Pal Sal Best Pro-Am Sport Carl Stewart Jr. A-26 Micro Fasteners Best Multi Performance David Payne Boeing B-17 Cortex Demon Gyro Engineering Excellence Mike Barbee Beech King Air Robart Mfg. Outstanding Craftsmanship Wayne Layne P-38 Lightning Bob Violett Models Best Unlimited Showing Ali Mach*nchy / Joe Castelao T-34 Special Recognition Ted Roman Super Cub Hitec Radio Special Recognition Cody Hague Ju 87 Stuka EZ Balancer Everybody Loves You Sal Becherano JOHN & SYDNI SMITH Critic’s Choice Runner-up Joe Castelao T-34 Metal Building Supplies Critic’s Choice Jordan Hall Peterson CL-13 (Canadian F-86) ZAP Glue Top Buns Award Joe McBride FLY Girls The post And the Winners Are… Top Gun Special Awards! appeared first on Model Airplane News. View the full article
×
×
  • Create New...